Wood stove heat shield question

[mvusse]

Snow on the roof stalled my outside work, so I decided to install a wood stove in my shop.

Without a heat shield it has to stay 36" away from the wall. I don't want to give up that kind of space, so ain't gonna happen. In order to be allowed closer to the wall than 36" I need a install a heat shield, fastened to the wall with a 1" air gap behind it and 1" to 2" gap between it and the floor. Okay, simple enough, got it. Everything I can find specifies 28 gauge sheet metal. 28 gauge is extremely thin, aluminum flashing is 23 gauge, my steel supplier doesn't carry anything thinner than 24 gauge and even that has to be special ordered. Makes me think 28 gauge might be about the same as tin foil.

Does it have to be 28 gauge, or is 28 gauge the minimum thickness? Would I be allowed to use say 22 or even 20 gauge?

 

[Jackfre]

28 is a minimum. You can go heavier. You can also use the cement board used for underlayment or you could get a piece of Hardi panel. I recently saw a nice stove install that used corrugated metal framed with angle iron.
Be careful on your stove pipe too. Clearance to single wall pipe is 18". If you want a 6 or 8" clearance you can use either Selkirk DS or Dura-vent DVL.

 

[mvusse]

The pipe is 19" away from the wall (I decided to err on the side of caution) which puts the stove 14" away.

The interior stove pipe is done, just waiting for the snow to melt so i can get on the roof to do the chimney. Got a through the roof kit from Lowe's which had everything I needed to go through the ceiling and the roof. Will call my steel supplier tomorrow.

Thank you.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Skip the cement board. It will eventually get hot and transfer the heat (BTDTGTT).

You definitely want heavier metal that what you have and you will probably need more like a 4"-6" gap behind the heat shield.

My Dad did this in his cabin. The interior was 75 year old tongue and groove knotty pine. Even though applied cement board and 1/2 brick behind the stove, the wall in the room behind it was so hot, you could not leave you hand on it ! The heat shield worked great !!

 

[MoonRise]

Non-combustible spacers to space the non-combustible heat shield itself away from the combustible surface being 'protected'.

One possible way:

- steel studs installed 'flat' to surface. Instant 1-1/2" air space, right in the middle of the listed 1" to 2" air space. Remember to have the air gap at the bottom and top of the heat shield so that there is a natural convection cooling air flow between the protected wall surface and the heat shield.

- non-combustible panel material. Cement board can work here.

- optional non-combustible finish material on top of the cement board. Ceramic tile can work here.

Remember, it is the convective air gap between the heat shield and the wall that is keeping the wall 'safe' from the intense heat from the stove.

28 gauge is the listed minimum sheet metal thickness required. Thicker is OK. But 1/2" steel plate is not really the right material here.

example reference info:

http://nasdonline.org/1248/d001052/wood-stove-installation-and-operation.html

 

[Tejay]

Many installers will use sound channel or hat rack for spacers , the fasteners must be separate from one surface (heat shield) to the spacers so that no heat transfer can happen directly through to framing

 

[Bondo]

28 is a minimum. You can go heavier.

Ayuh,..... The 1 behind my woodstove in the house is 2 old highway signs,.....
They're old enough to be steel, embossed, with much of the original paint,......
They're 2' x 2', corner signs, black arrow on a yellow background,.....

Didn't wanta drill more holes in 'em, so turned 'em 90*, 'n used the originals,......
2 pieces of old sign post, 'n it stands 'bout 55" high, 'n 2' wide,.....
It just leans against the wall, so there's a big gap at the bottom, 'n a few inches at the top,.....
Plenty of air flow,....

 

[Copymutt]

You could also fasten the heat shield to the rear of the stove. Less material. Less intrusive of space.
https://www.google.com/search?q=wood+stove+heat+shield&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari

 

[6768rogues]

I used a piece of leftover ribbed metal barn siding. I screwed it to the wall with long screws and bushings on the screws to hold it away from the wall. If I put my hand behind it when a fire is burning, it is cool back there. It has its factory white paint that makes it look good.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I used a piece of leftover ribbed metal barn siding. I screwed it to the wall with long screws and bushings on the screws to hold it away from the wall. If I put my hand behind it when a fire is burning, it is cool back there. It has its factory white paint that makes it look good.

I also used white ribbed metal siding. I think mine is spaced off the wall with a few metal studs.