Wood stove install

[bluedog225]

Not many wood-burning stove in this part of the world so I thought I would check with you guys who live in colder areas.

I am going to put a wood stove later. But I am installing the roof first. I haven't had time to research a wood stove yet.

I suspect it will be something medium sized and American-made. I am trying to heat 1200ft.² on an as needed basis. I'd like to go ahead and plan for and install the roof penetration and chimney curb when I build and put on the metal roof.

Is there a standard size I can count on as a safe harbor? For example can I plan for a double wall 8 inch pipe at the ceiling and install a reducer at the ceiling if it turns out I need 6"?

Or is 6" the most likely I will need for a stove for this modest space?

It will be a cathedral ceiling with about a 25' straight run.

Many thanks.

Tom

 

[pvfjr]

Any stove with an 8" flue would be complete overkill these days. Plan for a 6". Also, keep in mind that for garage installations they typically want the stove air intake to be at least 18"off the ground so they don't **** in hydrocarbon fumes. I had to build a concrete block pedestal for my stove so it would be high enough.

For reference, I've got a Blaze King Ashford that heats our 2400 sqft home, and can go 30+ hours on a single load of good wood if it's 50+ outside. It has a 6" flue.

You'll get a very good draft with that height; you shouldn't have issues getting a good stove to run right.

 

[bluedog225]

Great. Thanks! And I will check out Blaze King.

 

[JerryB]

We heat our whole house with a single centrally located wood stove, so have lots of experience.

If you know the location of your future stove, it is really smart to put the roof penetrations in as you do the roof. Accuracy is important, as you really want to try to avoid having to put offsets in the future stovepipe. Offset fittings mean less draw, especially on startup, and are usually the first parts to need replacement. Of course in a garage install you probably have more latitude in placement.

As to diameter, while 6" is probably adequate, you really should determine the size of the outlet on your proposed stove, and match that. A top outlet with the diameter matched to the stovepipe dimeter is best, especially for easier firing and less maintenance. You will also probably want to space the stove off the floor as pvfjr wrote above.

Additionally, I would NOT use insulated pipe in the free standing lengths. Our single wall pipe extends from the top of the stove to the box that penetrates the ceiling. We get a lot of heat off that pipe.

 

[Ironhorse74]

This is my 28th year in the hearth business. Most but not all new woodstoves are going to be a 6" flue collar. The key to this exercise is to choose the stove first. Figure your clearances out and that will give you a guide as to where the chimney is located. The last thing I would do where you are located is to put some big catalytic stove in. Brands I like are Pacific Energy any of the models based on their super 27 are great. Travis industries Lopi, Avalon make a good wood stove. Regency makes an ok wood stove. I really like Jotul great bang for the buck. Hearthstone makes a good stove but much less bang for the buck. I am a little leary of Quadrafire any more, they are making more and more off shore.

 

[ipinupin]

Any stove with an 8" flue would be complete overkill these days. Plan for a 6". Also, keep in mind that for garage installations they typically want the stove air intake to be at least 18"off the ground so they don't **** in hydrocarbon fumes. I had to build a concrete block pedestal for my stove so it would be high enough.

For reference, I've got a Blaze King Ashford that heats our 2400 sqft home, and can go 30+ hours on a single load of good wood if it's 50+ outside. It has a 6" flue.

You'll get a very good draft with that height; you shouldn't have issues getting a good stove to run right.

Good suggest, Thanks

 

[bluedog225]

This is my 28th year in the hearth business. Most but not all new woodstoves are going to be a 6" flue collar. The key to this exercise is to choose the stove first. Figure your clearances out and that will give you a guide as to where the chimney is located. The last thing I would do where you are located is to put some big catalytic stove in. Brands I like are Pacific Energy any of the models based on their super 27 are great. Travis industries Lopi, Avalon make a good wood stove. Regency makes an ok wood stove. I really like Jotul great bang for the buck. Hearthstone makes a good stove but much less bang for the buck. I am a little leary of Quadrafire any more, they are making more and more off shore.

Agreed. Though I may not pull the trigger on the actual purchase for a while. Space is not critical. Corner installation and I can easily give it 12" from the back corners to the walls. That exceeds the needed clearance for the ones I have looked at.

And thanks for the recs. I was wondering if I needed a catalytic. We have a couple of weeks of freezing weather in a cold year. No freeze last winter.

 

[BADSIX]

Agreed. Though I may not pull the trigger on the actual purchase for a while. Space is not critical. Corner installation and I can easily give it 12" from the back corners to the walls. That exceeds the needed clearance for the ones I have looked at.

And thanks for the recs. I was wondering if I needed a catalytic. We have a couple of weeks of freezing weather in a cold year. No freeze last winter.

I believe catalytic is code at least here it is
Jay D.

 

[bob15]

I would recommend pulling a permit for a stove install. If you have a house fire the insurance company could deny claims if installed not to code. this is one of the few things I recommend getting a permit for.

I would even look at the Englander stoves. they might not be the prettiest, but they put out some heat. i have been heating a 1200sq ft house with one for 10 years (no other heat source used).

http://www.heatredefined.com/englander/stoves/

 

[pvfjr]

I believe catalytic is code at least here it is
Jay D.

Catalytic stoves aren't required here, not by a long shot. All they care about is that it's certified. The better the emissions and efficiency numbers, the greater the rebates. The Oregon energy trust refunded me $1100 on my Ashford, because it has some of the best numbers.

I agree, a catalytic isn't necessary for a Texas shop. It was the best choice for us, since we burn 24/7 for five months of the year in our house. I only heat the shop about once a year.

+1 for Pacific Energy, they make great stoves!

 

[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

All stoves made past 1990 or so are required to have CC's by law, I believe.

 

[pvfjr]

All stoves made past 1990 or so are required to have CC's by law, I believe.

Where do you guys get this information? Are you aware of all the clean-burning secondary combustion stoves out there? They don't have catalysts, and they're perfectly legal. I'd venture to say that most stoves produced today still don't have cats. Head over to hearth.com and do some looking around, there's a wealth of good information there.

 

[Ironhorse74]

I believe catalytic is code at least here it is
Jay D.

No where in the US is catalytic a code requirement. There a maximum particulant weight per hour requirement. They don't care how a manufacturer achieves it.

 

[Ironhorse74]

All stoves made past 1990 or so are required to have CC's by law, I believe.

You are incorrect EPA Phase 1 was 1991. EPA phase II was 1994. Both of those had a maximum particulant per hour requirement. Basically there were two ways of achieving that goal. An after burner in the top of the stove is the most common method. Some manufacturers wanted to have huge fireboxes. They couldn't achieve an afterburner so they went to a catalytic combuster. In my opinion this is a very poor way of meeting emissions requirements.

Everyone who is looking at a wood stove should be aware that the EPA is changing the standardd. It has been delayed over how the testing is done. It is coming to a wood stove near you soon.

 

[Ironhorse74]

In case anyone wants to know what the new EPA regulations are.

https://www.epa.gov/residential-wood-heaters/compliance-requirements-residential-wood-heaters

 

[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

Where do you guys get this information? Are you aware of all the clean-burning secondary combustion stoves out there? They don't have catalysts, and they're perfectly legal. I'd venture to say that most stoves produced today still don't have cats. Head over to hearth.com and do some looking around, there's a wealth of good information there.

This is true, my summary was oversimplified. I have a Whitfield Advantage II fireplace insert, pellet stove, and it doesn't have a cat, no pellet stove do AFAIK. They probably burn too cold, as only a handful of pellets burn at a time? That's my guess.