Looking good.
Wood stove installation help
- Thread starter Bigpee733
- Start date
Fyrme
Well-known member
Nice job man.
Thanks y'all, still need to hook up some support for the exposed stove pipe, but I had a roaring fire going, and every thing seems to be venting and drawing great! That insulated triple wall pipe is awesome too, I climbed up on a ladder in felt it, where it goes through the roof, barley even warm to the touch, I'd say more room temperature.
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jlockleOSU
Member
What size pipe boot did you get?
chrispyny
Well-known member
Awesome install. I bet given enuf time,myou may find u need a bigger wood stove. That garage is hayuoooge!
klogan121
Well-known member
Seeing all those chainsaws on the shelf, you'll have no problem cutting wood!
I love the wood stove in my barn! I'm sure you will too!
I love the wood stove in my barn! I'm sure you will too!
Thanks y'all! I got the #8 silicone boot for pipebootexpress, It fits from 7"-13", and the insulated triple wall is right at 10" OD, so it's centered in the boot good. I think that stove will do good, it puts out ALOT of heat, plus I might hang plastic across the middle of the garage over the winter. I have 3 vehicles to one side, and they don't get driven in the winter, so it would help keeping dust off of them, and with heating. And yes, old saws and wood cutting is a major hobby of mine, so that's really the fun part!
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Here's my build thread, if anyone wants to see the building from the start! http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218389
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James-W
Well-known member
Around here, whenever there is a house/garage fire, an inspector comes by and goes thru the rubble trying to determine why the fire got started. If it is determined it was caused by something the homeowner, or a contractor, or repair person did wrong, or was not done according to code, it can get a little "sticky" with the insurance company paying the claim. I am not saying they won't pay the claim, I am just saying it could potentially get a little "sticky" if something wasn't done to code. It is my understanding that some insurance companies won't even insure a home with wood heat.
Man Cave
Well-known member
Thanks for the pics Bigpee733, helpful for me as I'm converting my 30x45 pole building to wood heat. I'm tired of being robbed from the propane man. My insurance man tells me my wood heat is ok since my building is detached from my house(I'm on 9acres) I still plan to comply with code to the letter. My unit is a commercial wood/coal furnace with a blower and my shop has the vinyl backed insulation. I have been advised by wood stove "experts" to go straight up for the stack and level with the peak of the roof for optimum draw and venting. I'm needing one of those pass through box's and the boot.
Problem # 1 You need 18" from the floor to bottom of the fire box. You have flammable liqueds in the shop/garage, maybe some propane.
Problem # 2 A 45° bend is more efficient than the 90° you used and it will be difficult to clean the pipe. An option would be to use a tee instead of one 90°
Potential Problem # 1. When I was a full-time fireman, triple wall caused problems. The inner liner would rust out and then next liner would rust out. Soon there was only one layer of sheet metal to the combustables. I do not know if triple wall still has the same problems or not. What type of pipe is listed for wood stove in your area?
My wood stove sits on a stand, 24" from the floor. The stand is made of 1 x 1 square tubing, with expanded metal for the sides and top and bottom. The bottom is 4" off the floor and is a handy place to keep wood dry.
Problem # 2 A 45° bend is more efficient than the 90° you used and it will be difficult to clean the pipe. An option would be to use a tee instead of one 90°
Potential Problem # 1. When I was a full-time fireman, triple wall caused problems. The inner liner would rust out and then next liner would rust out. Soon there was only one layer of sheet metal to the combustables. I do not know if triple wall still has the same problems or not. What type of pipe is listed for wood stove in your area?
My wood stove sits on a stand, 24" from the floor. The stand is made of 1 x 1 square tubing, with expanded metal for the sides and top and bottom. The bottom is 4" off the floor and is a handy place to keep wood dry.
Clik
Well-known member
Many people miss the point of insulated pipe. It's to protect the pipe from COLD AIR!
When cold air hits the exposed pipe outside the smoke condenses in the pipe and eventually catches fire. That fire, in thin metal pipe, can burn through and cause a fire.
Many people also think they need a cast door on barrel stoves. If you have your air vent in the front, as most do, the incoming air prevents the heat from getting hot enough at the door to need the anti warping properties of a cast iron door. Heat is highest in the rear where it runs up the chimney.
Another misconception is that you need tight collars at the stove and sealer, etc. Air draws in, not out.
I've built many barrel stoves and just jammed the stove pipe in and secured it from falling further in with a couple of scraps of sheet metal (made from the scrap of hole cut out of the barrel and bent into an "L". Think small shelf bracket) sheet metal screwed into the barrel.
I've used barrels that had buck shot holes in them with no problem because air draws in not out. I'm not suggesting that, but only because if you ever burned cherrywood or some wood that pops alot, you could end up with sparks on the floor.
When cold air hits the exposed pipe outside the smoke condenses in the pipe and eventually catches fire. That fire, in thin metal pipe, can burn through and cause a fire.
Many people also think they need a cast door on barrel stoves. If you have your air vent in the front, as most do, the incoming air prevents the heat from getting hot enough at the door to need the anti warping properties of a cast iron door. Heat is highest in the rear where it runs up the chimney.
Another misconception is that you need tight collars at the stove and sealer, etc. Air draws in, not out.
I've built many barrel stoves and just jammed the stove pipe in and secured it from falling further in with a couple of scraps of sheet metal (made from the scrap of hole cut out of the barrel and bent into an "L". Think small shelf bracket) sheet metal screwed into the barrel.
I've used barrels that had buck shot holes in them with no problem because air draws in not out. I'm not suggesting that, but only because if you ever burned cherrywood or some wood that pops alot, you could end up with sparks on the floor.
Solution #1, The stove is stamped right on the front, "do not set stove off ground, sit directly on hearth". I'm sure with flammables around, it may be different, but it's not a sealed garage anyway, there is plenty of draft.
Solution #2, 1 90 degree bend is perfectly fine. Hell, through the wall kits have 2 90's in them! But I am putting a T in the bottom for ease of cleaning.
Solution #3, the triple wall inside is all stainless, so it can't rust out.
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Solution #2, 1 90 degree bend is perfectly fine. Hell, through the wall kits have 2 90's in them! But I am putting a T in the bottom for ease of cleaning.
Solution #3, the triple wall inside is all stainless, so it can't rust out.
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Congrats on getting the stove hooked up and burning. Once you get some insulation in that bldg, you'll appreciate it even more.
Shop Specialties
Well-known member
A half plugged elbow will flow better than a clean ' T '. You can easily take the elbow off when you clean and put a bucket right there to catch everything then put the elbow back on.
klogan121
Well-known member
Stove setup looks awesome! 
finn
Well-known member
Wouldn't recommend exiting that close to the eave edge around here. The snow will wreak havoc with the chimney once it starts sliding down the metal roof.
Most penetrations through metal are closer to the peak to mitigate the shear load from sliding snow.
Good luck, though.
Most penetrations through metal are closer to the peak to mitigate the shear load from sliding snow.
Good luck, though.