Wood Stove options.

[Fighter-of-Wars]

Hey all. I am going to use a wood stove to heat my shop. Around here people pay to get rid of logs and trees so I am set on that. My shop is not insulated and is not sealed up real good and it won't get insulated anytime soon. My shop is kinda mid sized, around 60 x 40. I am only going to be working from the far middle over to one wall, as the other is all shelves and storage.

I plan on putting the stove in the middle of the shop up against the long wall. with the exhaust running at an angle across the wall, over my workbenches and out the roof or wall.

But how can I get the heat to where I'm working. My dad said to rig up a fan infront or behind the stove that I can point to blow the heat to where I'm working. Any of you guys know if this works or not?

The vent coming out of the top of the stove is an oval shape, anyone know where I can find an adapter to change this to a circle. Also, where can I get the pipe to run the exhaust out through the wall or roof.

Thanks.

 

[35mastr]

Ceiling fans will move the air around nicely.

You will want double or triple insulated flue pipe.

You should be able to get that at a hardware store or a store that sells the stoves in your area.

 

[Rick S]

Any good stove shop would have the oval to round pipe.But why are you running the pipe at an angle ? long pipe runs on a wood burner are a fire waiting to happen,as the smoke cools it will leave creosote in the pipe which will lead to a chimney fire and that pipe is no match for the heat of a chimney fire The heat of a chimney fire is like putting a torch against the wall and yes it can happen that fast.Shorter the run the better and straight up & out is the best. Just 30 + years as a firefighter seeing it happen.

 

[mag99]

I have worked in a 36X36 barn for 10 years with wood heat. We have little to no insulation, sliding doors with some pretty big gaps, and have no problem with the heat. The stove is a double barrel, with 6-2 inch pipes welded through the upper barrel, the stove is one corner of the shop, we use a fan elevated behind the upper barrel and a small pedestal fan blowing across the side. We have had the thermometer in the other corner of the shop reach 80* with snow outside! IMO, the upper barrel is key, that is your heat exchanger, shops that I have been in without the top barrel, just don't heat up. I think it just goes out the flue. With a steady supply of wood, I wouldn't hesitate for a second of using wood heat. Good luck!

 

[Rick S]

I'm all for wood heat if you do it right,I'm just pointing out somethings to think about as far as the chimney

 

[rinny_tin_tin]

Hey all. I am going to use a wood stove to heat my shop. Around here people pay to get rid of logs and trees so I am set on that. My shop is not insulated and is not sealed up real good and it won't get insulated anytime soon. My shop is kinda mid sized, around 60 x 40. I am only going to be working from the far middle over to one wall, as the other is all shelves and storage.

I plan on putting the stove in the middle of the shop up against the long wall. with the exhaust running at an angle across the wall, over my workbenches and out the roof or wall.

But how can I get the heat to where I'm working. My dad said to rig up a fan infront or behind the stove that I can point to blow the heat to where I'm working. Any of you guys know if this works or not?

The vent coming out of the top of the stove is an oval shape, anyone know where I can find an adapter to change this to a circle. Also, where can I get the pipe to run the exhaust out through the wall or roof.

Thanks.

Look at this
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200331508_200331508


However, nothing is going to practically vector the heat a long distance. Consider a ceiling fan to distribute the heat and a large pot of water atop the heater to add humidity - along with the above pipe heat exchanger.

Look here for possible converters:

http://www.northlineexpress.com/ite..."stove+pipe"&gclid=CKvLo-u5v5kCFRBM5Qod92FQvA

 

[Fighter-of-Wars]

I have worked in a 36X36 barn for 10 years with wood heat. We have little to no insulation, sliding doors with some pretty big gaps, and have no problem with the heat. The stove is a double barrel, with 6-2 inch pipes welded through the upper barrel, the stove is one corner of the shop, we use a fan elevated behind the upper barrel and a small pedestal fan blowing across the side. We have had the thermometer in the other corner of the shop reach 80* with snow outside! IMO, the upper barrel is key, that is your heat exchanger, shops that I have been in without the top barrel, just don't heat up. I think it just goes out the flue. With a steady supply of wood, I wouldn't hesitate for a second of using wood heat. Good luck!

Looks like I'm in luck on using a wood stove! Thanks for the info

 

[Uncle Buck]

Any good stove shop would have the oval to round pipe.But why are you running the pipe at an angle ? long pipe runs on a wood burner are a fire waiting to happen,as the smoke cools it will leave creosote in the pipe which will lead to a chimney fire and that pipe is no match for the heat of a chimney fire The heat of a chimney fire is like putting a torch against the wall and yes it can happen that fast.Shorter the run the better and straight up & out is the best. Just 30 + years as a firefighter seeing it happen.

There is a lot of truth in what was said here!

I agree though, a wood stove should be great done right.

 

[autoclassicnut]

rinny tin tin is right, we had a "stack robber" like that in a double wide mobile home that we used to own, It worked great, You'll love it....

 

[burleymike]

My dad has an old wood stove that is just taking up space in his garage. It is huge and ugly, perfect for my shop. Black stove pipe is expensive so I am going to the scrap yard and will get some 8" steel pipe for the flue.

I know that chimney fires get real hot so I feel much better having heavy steel pipe with no joints for the chimney. I will just run it straight out the roof.

 

[walrus]

I know that chimney fires get real hot so I feel much better having heavy steel pipe with no joints for the chimney. I will just run it straight out the roof.

Wow, doesn't sound to safe to me. They make insulated stainless flue that's listed for the purpose. Expensive? yes, so is burning down your shop

 

[goodfellow]

My dad has an old wood stove that is just taking up space in his garage. It is huge and ugly, perfect for my shop. Black stove pipe is expensive so I am going to the scrap yard and will get some 8" steel pipe for the flue.

I know that chimney fires get real hot so I feel much better having heavy steel pipe with no joints for the chimney. I will just run it straight out the roof.

This is one application you don't want to "cheap" out on. The stove is free, so spend a little on safety and "peace of mind" knowing that the job was done right. Get a few sections of double insulated stainless flue pipe and be done with it. Tractor Supply usually has overstock at the end of the season and you can get good deals from many stores this time of year. Your family, tools, projects, pets. etc... are worth the extra few bucks spent on a good system.

I heated a garage (approx. 800sq/ft) with a small woodstove and it was wonderful. In the coldest weather that stove would heat the entire shop within a short 30-40 minutes. The place was insulated and I did use a large ceiling fan to move the air.

 

[38 Special]

If you need chimney, let me know. I stock DuraVent. Look here:

http://www.FireLogs.com/Chimney.htm

Figure out the parts you need and email me at [email protected] for a GJ price.

 

[Fighter-of-Wars]

If you need chimney, let me know. I stock DuraVent. Look here:

http://www.FireLogs.com/Chimney.htm

Figure out the parts you need and email me at [email protected] for a GJ price.

Thanks, I'll have to keep your name in mind when I go to set up my chimney.


Another question I have is what can I use to help keep the boards on my wall from catching on fire. I plan to have my wood stove up against a wall. I will most likely put a steel plate between the stove and the wall, but I would like to treat the boards behind the stove with something to help prevent them from catching flame? Any one have any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[rinny_tin_tin]

Thanks, I'll have to keep your name in mind when I go to set up my chimney.


Another question I have is what can I use to help keep the boards on my wall from catching on fire. I plan to have my wood stove up against a wall. I will most likely put a steel plate between the stove and the wall, but I would like to treat the boards behind the stove with something to help prevent them from catching flame? Any one have any suggestions?

Thanks.

Watch yer spacing from combustible material as well as for maintenance access- however, DuroRock (sp?) is what I have used - in addition to the spacing. You can then face the Durock with cultured stone, etc

 

[krusty the clown]

i'm using a double barrel stove with single wall stove pipe. never had a flue fire in ten years and hope i never do. yesterday it was 35 degrees outside and 80 degrees in the shop. it's a good cheap setup!

 

[sammerdog]

Howdy fighter-of-wars. You may want to call your homeowner's insurance agent before you get too far down the bunny trail. Many insurance companies will require an inspection of your wood stove install before extending coverage. If you find out who they will be using for the inspection, that company and/or inspector will be able to tell you up front what is or isn't acceptable for binding coverage.

Strict adherance to their requirements will eliminate any potential re-dos or claim denials should you have a fire.

 

[kbs2244]

Put drywall behind your steel plate on the wall.
Also space the plate about 1/2 inch off the drywall by useing thick nuts as spacers.
The steel will get hot on both sides.
Having some space behind it will alow that heat to escape.
Fans are a great way to direct heat.
I use the cheap, back and forth, ones from the drugstore.
Be sure the fire is at least 18 inchs above the floor.
Put the stove up on cement blocks if you have to.
Gas and solvent fumes spread across the floor, and you don't want them getting into your firebox.

 

[38 Special]

Anything non combustable spaced off the wall 1" and ventialted sides and top will cut the combustable dimension by 2/3. Sheetmetal, DurRock, masonry, etc. But not sheetrock, as it is considered combuatable.

 

[Fighter-of-Wars]

Thanks for the help guys. I'll be sure to remember the tips.

 

[hetkind]

I am thinking of a pot bellied stove from Northern Tool, it will put out 200k btu on wood or coal...

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_2053_2053

I was going to run the stove pipe straight back, then straight up. I would rather not have a roof performation if I can help it and can pull off the elbow outside for flue cleaning.

Howard