Wood stove side exit thru pole barn, not insulated

[Greg5OH]

Currently the pole barn is not insulated. So ill be going thru a thin layer of corrugated steel for my side and up exit of my 6” single wall wood stove pipe.

Is there a thimble product made for this kind of application?

also do they make some kind of long supports for the chimney running outside? Ill have about 8’ of chimney pipe outside the building.
Stove is in the corner so i need to be 2’ above the tallest thing within 10’ horizontal.

Thanks

 

[mikedodge]

For the heater in my pole barn it's a normal insulated pipe that goes thru the wall. You could probably use a thimble by framing in the wall a bit but if it's not insulated you shouldn't need it.
There are chimneys made for running up the wall that have all the needed pieces. Find whatever manufacturer is carried the most in your area so it's easier to get parts and help. They should also have something for the wall penetration.

 

[Bretny]

They sell through the wall kits..how ever I highly recommend you go through the roof. It's way easier to run the stove, need less cleaning and build less creosote. Sealing up and putting a hole in the roof is not a big issue. They make high temp silicone boots for metal roofing that are very easy to seal and install.

 

[Greg5OH]

They sell through the wall kits..how ever I highly recommend you go through the roof. It's way easier to run the stove, need less cleaning and build less creosote. Sealing up and putting a hole in the roof is not a big issue. They make high temp silicone boots for metal roofing that are very easy to seal and install.

i have been thinking about this. Being that im still not insulated, its not a problem. But for down the line id have to upgrade anything above the trusses to a dual pipe. As mentioned, the stove is in a corner, so only about 1-2 feet between the rafter and ceiling.
would that pose any issues?

 

[Bretny]

Not really. Run the insulated pipe down to just below the interior ceiling and put an attic box in or trim later for the ceiling.

 

[nadogail]

Growing up in Alaska, I think I learned somethings about heating garages and shops with stoves. The following advice is guarenteed to be worth exactly what you are paying me for it.

Having some experience with a wood stove heating cabins and my father's garage in the 1950' and 60's i would avoid insulating the stove or the pipe until just before the roof penetration. Where the pipe penetrates the roof I would definatly prottect the building from the heat in the stack. It seems to me that you would want to get every last BTU coming off the fire into your heated space, rather than exhausting it outside.

I would consider a blower to circulate the heat from the stove into the area to be heated, or heat radiating fins on the stove and the stack.

 

[Greg5OH]

Regarding the insulated pipe just before the roof-you are referring to an uninsulated space right?
Ditto on fan. Also putting up heat shielding on the walls with a 1” spacer to help reflect heat back.

im still torn on location..corner is least obtrusive, but chimney would have to be very tall outside the building.

if i put it where the short wide box currently is, alot longer interior run, and smaller stack height above the roof. But requires rethinking whole storage/workspace

 

[nadogail]

Sometimes you have to change your plans and go back to the Drawing Board. Not every idea is your best, sometimes an improvement plan will become evident as you build your first idea.

 

[ycgoat]

I have a new metal un-insulated building; my intention is to put the wood stove in the middle of the working area on the back wall and running the single wall straight up and out the roof. The idea is this gives most even heating in the area, strongest chimney support since the full weigh will be mostly supported by the woodstove, is the ideal set up for the chimney function, and should be the least amount of material so a lower cost. I found a woodstove shop on-line that would build a material list and price the set up based on the the configuration and distances I entered, and exiting directly out the back of the wood stove through the wall was more than double the cost of straight up off the top of the stove.

 

[Bretny]

Regarding the insulated pipe just before the roof-you are referring to an uninsulated space right?
Ditto on fan. Also putting up heat shielding on the walls with a 1” spacer to help reflect heat back.

im still torn on location..corner is least obtrusive, but chimney would have to be very tall outside the building.

if i put it where the short wide box currently is, alot longer interior run, and smaller stack height above the roof. But requires rethinking whole storage/workspace

You need to run the insulated pipe down far enough to meet the clearance to combustibles. For single wall pipe this number can be prety big. For insulated pipe I believe its 2in clearance. Read the pipe manufacturers specs.

 

[Sumboodie]

Sometimes you have to change your plans and go back to the Drawing Board. Not every idea is your best, sometimes an improvement plan will become evident as you build your first idea.

That's why I ask others. Sometimes just bouncing around ideas is helpful.

 

[Greg5OH]

Quick update, ill be doing with the Safe T vent line from Menards.
Cathedral ceiling adapter with a boxed in frame so the decktite rubber boot can be screwed thru the metal into the wood,
and about 5' of double wall stainless pipe. That, plus the damper (my stove doesnt have a built in version) will clean me out an easy 380 bucks...but...cant wait to get some heat in there. single digit F weather is just too cold if not working vigorously.
Im going with all legal clearances, raise the stove so the bottom is 18" off the floor.
Will be insurance company inspected and approved.

 

[Bretny]

What's the temp rating on the rubber boot? Typicaly rubber isnt used for this and high temp silicone boot is.

 

[gmcgeo]

What's the temp rating on the rubber boot? Typicaly rubber isnt used for this and high temp silicone boot is.

Its prob the high temp pipe boot made for wood stoves, if he is getting the menards kit

 

[gmcgeo]

Quick update, ill be doing with the Safe T vent line from Menards.
Cathedral ceiling adapter with a boxed in frame so the decktite rubber boot can be screwed thru the metal into the wood,
and about 5' of double wall stainless pipe. That, plus the damper (my stove doesnt have a built in version) will clean me out an easy 380 bucks...but...cant wait to get some heat in there. single digit F weather is just too cold if not working vigorously.
Im going with all legal clearances, raise the stove so the bottom is 18" off the floor.
Will be insurance company inspected and approved.

I wish my insurance company would let me put in a wood stove in my garage

 

[Showkey]

Just looking ahead:

Heating an uninsulated metal building (any building) in a winter climate can create ice dams and roof leaks ?
Maybe getting it warm enough for all the ice and snow to clear ? But in subzero conditions that may not be possible.