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Woodburner... period.

norrie

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Messages
14
Location
Saint Paul, MN
I going to run a woodburner in my garage. I'm not sure just what I should do to put in a chimmney. The garage is new, 25' x 25', with 9' ceilings on the lower floor.
When I say I don't know what I should do, I mean I don't know what to do! Should I insulate around the chimmney? How close should the insulation be to the chimmney? Is there a certain distance the chimmney top should be from the edge of the roof? I have seen discussion of 2 and 3 wall pipe, etc. etc.
Anyhelp would be really appreciated.
Thanks fellas.
 
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kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
There are whole books written and lots of building code requirements on this.
You need to learn a lot more then you can get from a place like this.
I wouwld start out by learning what a Tri-Wall stove pipe is, and go from there.
 

Roospike

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Messages
291
Location
Mid-West
#1 First of all ..... You can not by code put a wood/solid burning appliance in a garage.

#2 on to the real world .............

norrie , what do you need to know.

What i need to know is what kind of wood stove u are putting in and is it two story on one , how much attic.

If you do put a wood stovew in your gargae you have to at least follow the code to put the appliance 18" up off the floor like a hot water heater and such. ( gas fumes ect sit at low floor level ect...)

You will have to install the stove the correct way and no cutting corners to save a buck !

You can run single wall or double wall black pipe from the stove to the ceiling then .........

You will need a celiling support / ceiling boot as pictured , to hook to the beams in the ceiling and this also insulates the ceiling from heat.

You will need a fire stop between the ceiling and the second floor and also if going through two floors ( 2 story )

From the ceiling support you have to use stainless steel or galvanized double wall lock together pipe ( pictured )

If going through a second floor you can run through a hole in the ceiling of the second floor but you will still have to have a second fire stop in the attic of the attic above the ceiling of the second floor.

In the attic you will need a heat shield around the pipe , the heat shield keeps things in the attic away from the pipe.

The stainless steel double wall pipe will need 2" clearance all the way around it all the way up. If going through a second floor ( room ) the stainless steel pipe will need to be boxed in / build a wall around it ( 2" clearance )

The holes in around the pipe on the second floor and the hole in the roof will need 2" clearance also all the way around the pipe when you cut it.

On the roof you will need your pipe boot and then on up.

All wood stoves are different and a good rule of thumb is you need at least 16' of total pipe for the stove to draft correct. This is measured from the top of the stove to the top of the pipe and does not include the cap.

I'm putting some pictures up to help you out .

A few pic are the wood stove in my shop , the inside shot does not show a fire stop in the attic ( YET ) because i have no ceiling and insulation.

Another shot of a room ( with the pink looking walls ) of the second floor of the house with the stainless steel pipe running through , this pic was taken before the wall/pipe was boxed in.

Your stove will still have to comply to clearances to the walls and such. Some stove can be 6" to the wall and others are 8", 12" , 18" .
If the wood stove is modern (1980 and up )it should have a plate on the back telling you have far/close you can put the stove to the wall, if no plate or its an older stove then you have to be the code max of 18" from the wall.

The black pipe from your stove to the ceiling:
if single wall pipe then the pipe has to be 18" from the wall.
if double wall pipe then the pipe can be as close as 6" from the wall. ( but the stove would have to let you be 4" also for this to happen )

one pic shows (not my home) an outside install of the wood stove pipe , this is how outside install should be done but i would advise against this kind of install because #1 it does cost more to do and #2 you pipe cools faster and make black garbage collect inside you pipe and you get less draft in your stove and a lot of time you have to add extra pipe to have it draft correctly.
keep me/us posted and ask questions .............
install you stove safe and correctly.

Install your stove correct and do it right the first time , no cutting corners.

Any questions just ask...................& keep us posted.


first set of pic's is my shop stove install.
 

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Roospike

Well-known member
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Jun 21, 2005
Messages
291
Location
Mid-West
My home stove install pic's.

stove is a Pacific Energy Summit. 97,000 BTU 3.0 cf

I heat my home and shop all winter 100% with wood.

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Roospike

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Jun 21, 2005
Messages
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Location
Mid-West
out side pipe install pic ( not mine )
and some helpful install pics.
 

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norrie

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Messages
14
Location
Saint Paul, MN
Whew! Thanks for all the info Roospike. That's alot to take in all at once.
I'm wondering how you are measuring the 18" from the floor. I mean, from what to what? I can tell from your pics that it's not from the very bottom of the stove.
Also, how far should the chimmney pipe be from the ceiling runners? I'd like to corner the stove as much as I can and if I don't have to run right between them in the ceiling it would help alot.

thanks for all the info.
 
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Roospike

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Jun 21, 2005
Messages
291
Location
Mid-West
Whew! Thanks for all the info Roospike. That's alot to take in all at once.
I'm wondering how you are measuring the 18" from the floor. I mean, from what to what? I can tell from your pics that it's not from the very bottom of the stove.
Also, how far should the chimmney pipe be from the ceiling runners? I'd like to corner the stove as much as I can and if I don't have to run right between them in the ceiling it would help alot.

thanks for all the info.


The unit has to be 18" off the ground so your measuring to the bottom of the stove to the ground.

Also, how far should the chimmney pipe be from the ceiling runners? I'd like to corner the stove as much as I can and if I don't have to run right between them in the ceiling it would help alot.
Are you going to use single or double wall pipe from the stove to the ceiling?

Single wall black pipe will have to be 18" from everything , double wall pipe can be as close as 6" to combustables.

You'll have to figure out the specs of the stove to see how close your stove can be to combustables . You can also put up a non-combustable wall or shield to lower the distance on single wall pipe and stoves.

6" on double wall pipe is the best you can get per hopw close you can get with pipe. ( you cant get closer even with a shield )

What stove are you putting in ?
 
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norrie

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Messages
14
Location
Saint Paul, MN
Does Ardent Oak sound right? It's cast into the front with a "No.15" lower down. On the back it says "the Auto Stove Works - New Athens, Ill."
I'll be running double wall pipe all the way I think. I'm thinking of putting up a brick surround against the wall just to be safe. Any advice on this?

Thanks again.
 
Joined
Jun 23, 2007
Messages
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I like wood burners but dont feel safe having one only a few feet from the work area where gasoline engines are repaired. In the right humidity conditions gas fumes can "blanket" the floor and travel .
 

Flathead Youngin'

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Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
493
Location
Southern Ohio
i run a coal burning stove and it's setup like the details above show....

i have straight black, single wall pipe going up to my metalbestos pipe and ceiling flange......then, through my second story i have more metalbestos pipe going through an adapter in the ceiling until it's about 6' above my roof.

works VERY well and i sleep much better knowing that it's done right and performs well....before, i just had black pipe going up 4' and making a 90 to go through the wall....i had made an adapter with an air gap out of clay tile....worked, but leaked, etc....

metalbestos pipe isn't cheap but i'm glad i did it!
 
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skinanbones

Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2007
Messages
22
Location
shelburne Ontario Canada
If you don't have your chimney manufactur picked out yet, look for ICC Excel it may the most expensive out there but it can hold upt to a ton of abuse and is the only chimney guarented to withstand 3 chimney fires and not fail in any way.
The second thing thats really nice is thats it not very heavy. It is only a 1" wall thickness but is tested to 2100 degees F, because it's only 1" you can go up between a rafter on 16" centres and not have to cut one to allow for clearances.
We sell this product exclusively at our store here in Ontario Canada and love it, never had a warrenty issue with it yet.
As for a brick wall behind the stove it's not needed at all, in fact it is going to hold more heat agianst the wall than if it wasn't there. If you want to create a sheild to reduce clearances, sheet metal spaced 1" of the wall and max 3" off the floor extending to 20" above the top of the stove and 18" past each side will reduce your manfuctor specs by 67%.
The one issue that nobody has brought up is that when you place your stove 18" off the floor (the way the codes read here is Canada is that it's from bottom of the feet) the top of the stove may be to close to the ceiling 98% of all stove have a 60" clearance to ceilings. So you may have to shield part of the ceiling simular to the way you would do the wall

Craig
www.HearthandLeisure.com
 
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