Wooden Floor Ideas

[dospisos]

I will be moving to NC next year and have a 24x42 shop at the house I will be buying. The floor at this time is 3/4 OSB with tongue and groove edges. I assume it is glued down along with nails.

I have several antique cars that will go in the shop and want to put another layer of flooring down to add strength to carry the load and to look nicer than the OSB. The load will not be a problems as is but want to beef it up as I finish the inside.

What would be some suggestions as to type of flooring I could use. I'm assuming I will have to go with another layer of plywood but I have thought of regular (real) oak flooring.

I will be finishing the shop with fire resistant drywall on the walls and ceiling and will probably treat whatever type of floor I go with to a fire resistant treatment as well if it does not come that way.

Thanks for your help.

 

[The Cobbler]

what is underneath the OSB? that is critical for determining the load it will take...

 

[dospisos]

There are 2x12 floor joist at 16" OC under the floor. I'm buying the house from my in-laws and have been storing my cars in the garage for years. At this time there is a 53 Chevy Convt, 31 Ford Roadster, 36 Ford Fordor and a 192? Chevy touring.

 

[The Cobbler]

any reason you wouldn't consider concrete or is there a basement underneath?

 

[yeldogt]

I redid a barn and used wide rough sawn ash -- only because that's what the local mill had for the best price. We did a shiplap and some polly to finish -- you can really use anything. It depends on the look. I kept a plastic tray under the one as it dripped .... but I would have regardless of floor.

I'm sure one of the laminate products would work great as well -- especially the water resistant now widely available.

Couple of points. A large filled hot tub w/o people can weigh 6k pounds. So a properly framed structure has no problem with a 4k car. Also -- the fire safety rules around detached structures w/o living space are not like those with a living space or an attached garage.

 

[dospisos]

The shop is off the ground on three sides as the land falls off. I wish it was a concrete floor but I think I can make it look like an old garage with the wood floor so that will be a plus. There is a sawmill nearby with a kiln so maybe I will see what they have to offer. The 2" oak strip flooring is and interesting option too.

 

[rsanter]

End cut 4x4 parquette.
Cheap, easy, very nice.
Fiftyish 4"x4"x10' cut half inch thick does your whole floor.
Or sixty five of them at 3/4".

Cedar,redwood,pine,milled local species or mix it up.

End cut parquette is the traditional floor in blacksmith shops.
They age beautifully.

This is what I was thinking for looks as well
The end cut makes the wood as tough as you will need and has that vintage look.
I will add nothing to the strength of the floor like long planks will, but that's just what it is.

For use in a working shop space I would use nothing thinner than 3/4" but for me I would do 1" end cut slices.

Also if it was me I would use a couple different species and put a "stripe" in the floor and even inlay a pattern near the entry door....

 

[LutzTD]

My mesquite is headed to the mill probably this month.
Inspired by the blacksmith shop floors at the Ford museum in Detroit and in the Oregon trail museum, the one that the highway goes under.
I'll router in a pattern and fill it with cedar.
I was building me a cookie cutter for the 40ton press to cut the squares, but I'm thinking a bandsaw I now have will do just fine.
Mesquite ***** and then ***** then ruins any blade then the dust poisons you. I'll wear a full face and an air bottle(because I have them).

I'm doing 3/4 because it'll mate up to the tractor supply mats.
If you're doing local wood from the local mill, I'd go with the one inch cut.

forgive me if its a stupid question but do you add tongues and grooves or are they just laid free or glued down?

 

[dospisos]

Thank you for the excellent ideas. I'm heading to NC in June to start the shop remodel in anticipation of moving next year. My wife came up with the idea to enlarge the shop so we can store our furniture while we remodel the in-laws house. How could I not accept that great idea?

 

[captaindiode]

I would consider 5/4 (1 inch dressed) white oak. That is what they floor trailers with and would make a tough floor. Tounge and groove and end matched is what I would want if the cost wasn't too high. 3/4 oak would probably be strong enough over the osb, just be sure to run perpendicular to the floor joists.

 

[pbon]

I would use old style barn flooring — 2” oak planks, if you want the barn look. If you already have a couple of layers of OSB underneath, you could do 5/4 or 1.5. Whatever the mill likes to make. You can put some steel beams or big wood beams underneath with steel or concrete supports if you want to work in the shop. I have about 6 steel beams under my 24x30 1890s carriage house.

 

[yeldogt]

End cut 4x4 parquette.
Cheap, easy, very nice.
Fiftyish 4"x4"x10' cut half inch thick does your whole floor.
Or sixty five of them at 3/4".

Cedar,redwood,pine,milled local species or mix it up.

End cut parquette is the traditional floor in blacksmith shops.
They age beautifully.

They still do those floors ... very expensive because of the time/labor. Takes a lot of wood ...

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

..... I think I can make it look like an old garage with the wood floor so that will be a plus.....

This is a GJ member, Nimrod's garage. He has not come back to the forum in many years. But I was/am so impressed with what he did I never miss a chance to re-post the pictures. Since you you mentioned, "...look like an old garage with wood floor..." - here's some inspiration.

 

[HotrodHR]

I think you should go with a wide plank hardwood flooring, something a little rustic. I'd like the floor to mimic old boards that may have been in a workshop a hundred years ago.

Google: Melrose Hickory 3/4" Thick x 5" Wide x 73" Length to see what it looks like.

 

[dospisos]

I like the wide board look. I may have to use the 2" because of cost but both will look good and should add some strength.

I may start another post to ask this specific question but what would you use for stain/finish? I do not want a urethane or something that seals the top. I'm thinking of an oil finish that will soak in. I'm sure that even with oil mats there will be eventual oil spots so maybe what soaks in before I can clean it will just add to the antique look.
Maybe?

 

[EdGasket]

Perhaps something from the butcherblock countertop finish isle?