Woodstove install in Morton Building

[Selo]

In post #40 here:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=359404&highlight=Morton&page=2

I posted some pictures of my flue install in a Morton Building with 6.5 pitch roof.

I have insurance and they are aware of the woodstove. It will be used to heat the two bays/shop area. My office, bathroom, and mini-kitchen will be heated with a mini-split.

Lots of questions re proper installation re distance to combustibles etc on forum, so here is what I did re a heat shield. It is a big stove (Vermont Castings Defiant) I've had stored for ~25 years. Flue was installed by a pro. He did a great job.

The shield is built one inch off the wall with steel spacers. The space is open at the top and bottom to allow air circulation. The stove is 18 inches from the shield in the rear and 17 inches from the side. The flue pipe (DuraVent) is rated at 6 inches to combustables so no need for any additional shielding to walls.

I have looked at lots of heat shield installations online. It seems 24 gauge sheet steel is recommended in the only place I can find any sort of "official" mention of gauge. What I used, largely (no pun intended) because of the area I wanted to cover is galvanized 29 gauge grade 80 so a pain to bend in the corner. This is not as thick as 24 gauge. Twenty-four gauge to cover the area I covered would have required a special order and would have been difficult for me to transport and install.

I fail to see how modestly thicker metal would have a meaningful difference, but I intend to put a remote thermometer behind the shield to check temp. during a hot fire.

Check it out.

Selo

 

[Dagny]

What could burn? that sure looks good to me.

 

[Unhdsm]

The metal for the shield should be good. I’m a little concerned about the metal spacers connected to the combustible wood. They will transfer heat. Some people use strips of cement board or ceramic spacers for that. I can’t remember what is approved for it.

 

[Selo]

What could burn? that sure looks good to me.

Thank you Dagny, that was my thinking. The install meets the stove manufacturer's requirements.

Cheers,

Selo

 

[Selo]

The metal for the shield should be good. I’m a little concerned about the metal spacers connected to the combustible wood. They will transfer heat. Some people use strips of cement board or ceramic spacers for that. I can’t remember what is approved for it.

Unhdsm,

Your point is well taken, however, the stove manufacturer's specs call for a non-combustible spacer without specifying material. They do state that the shield's protection value is in the space behind the sheet metal allowing confection air flow from the floor and out the top. As I mentioned, I intend to test with thermometers behind the sheet metal. As I'm sure you would agree, if the shield gets hot enough that the spacers can ignite the studs where they attach, the shield isn't up to the task regardless.

My biggest concern is using 29 gauge instead of 24.

While I'm on a roll....I doubt the manufacturer developed their clearance guidlines by testing various gauges. Free-standing heat shields are 24 gauge by necessity so they can stand-up without lean etc. So this thickness has been applied to attached heat shields probably, maybe?? Also (having been an inspector of an unrelated type of installation with strict code/stautes); I note with a bit of cynicism that clearances, in this type of install and others, are a bit too convenient. For woodstoves all clearances are in multiples of 6 inches. Do we think the safe clearances research data came out so conveniently?? It's always 6, 12, 18, 30, or 36 inches. Why is is never 5, 11.5, or 19.75 inches?

Still we ignore the specs at our peril....literally. I will carefully test the shield and spacer temps. I don't want to heat the neighborhood with my burning garage!!

Sorry for the rant!! Long way of saying I hear you brother re spacers. I will post my findings.

Selo

 

[rburke65]

Well I wouldn't want to hold my breath waiting for that pole barn to catch fire that's for sure. Nice looking install.

 

[Selo]

rburke65,

Thank you.

Selo

 

[BADSIX]

nice job, over kill maybe but that doesn't hurt. I had an install similar and used cement board spaced out an in or so. sadly they wouldn't let you use that stove here in Oregon, they need to be the catalectic type .
Jay D.

 

[oldcpecdr]

In Massachsetts and most New England States you can INSTALL a wood stove legally in an "outbuilding" but it will void your insurance.. probably worth checking on...

BEAUTIFUL BUILDING

Mike B

Just saw you have insurance..... so good luck !!!!!!! Nice building.... can't do that here !!!!

 

[930dreamer]

Did you think about centering the stove in the corner? Looks good.

 

[pvfjr]

Unhdsm,
the space behind the sheet metal allowing confection air flow

Sounds tasty.

All kidding aside, does this building have any doors large enough to allow a vehicle to enter? If so, you may need to raise the stove, depending on your local codes. Around here, the intake air for the stove has to be at least 18" off the floor. I had to put our stove up on a cinder block pedestal. I think they're concerned about hydrocarbons floating around at the floor level.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Sounds tasty.

All kidding aside, does this building have any doors large enough to allow a vehicle to enter? If so, you may need to raise the stove, depending on your local codes. Around here, the intake air for the stove has to be at least 18" off the floor. I had to put our stove up on a cinder block pedestal. I think they're concerned about hydrocarbons floating around at the floor level.

That may be the only issue that your insurance wants corrected.


I've seen some shady installs over the years and wonder how places don't burn down. I wouldn't lose sleep at night over your install.

 

[Selo]

Badsix,
Here in rural NC non-catalytic stoves can be used. You can still buy plain stoves at places like Tractor Supply.

Oldcpecdr,
I made sure my insurance company was aware of the stove and was given an ok. Thank you re my building. I really like the way it looks also. One of the many reasons I went with Morton.

930dreamer,
Yes, it was my original plan. The issue was where the flue needed to pass through the roof. If I turned the stove at a 45 degree angle and made sure I had clearance of 18 inches to heat shield, it moved the flue to where I would need to cut a purlin OR have a zig-zag in the flue. I could also move the stove further out from the wall to pass through and be centered in the next adjacent space between purlins, thus moving the stove farther out (see flue pic). All to say having it square as I have was the lesser of evils. Also it already takes a considerable amount of floor space. Its not just wall clearance, but necessary clearance from benches, tools etc. Regarding how it looks...did my wife call you?

pvjgr,

Interesting point, I do have two 10' wide garage doors (see pic), but not an issue in rural NC. I point out "rural" as I bet there are more stingent regs. in our larger cities.

Confection....DUH!! That would be some sweet air flow

Thank you all,

 

[Jeepster04]

nice job, over kill maybe but that doesn't hurt. I had an install similar and used cement board spaced out an in or so. sadly they wouldn't let you use that stove here in Oregon, they need to be the catalectic type .
Jay D.

Kinda wild considering the fisher wood stove got its start in Oregon.

I've already bought my fisher wood stove, just waiting for a garage to put it in!

 

[Selo]

Kinda wild considering the fisher wood stove got its start in Oregon.

I've already bought my fisher wood stove, just waiting for a garage to put it in!

Fully understand. I stored my stove 25 years until I had my garage.

BTW Jeepster, I'm restomoding an 85 CJ7.

SELO

 

[Firebrick43]

The only reason 24 gage is recommended is for damage resistance. Most people store wood and tools beside the stove and daily life brings bumps. I bet you will have several dents soon enough(probably some oil canning to when heated) , but if you don't care, don't worry about it.

Most use flat steel, your corrugations add quite a bit of strength.

 

[Selo]

nutsett,

I feel pretty good about it. Also, I take storage of combustible products seriously. I will not store gasoline etc in the garage. Thank you for your comment.

firebrick,

Makes sense re the 24 g recommendation. Twenty-nine gauge without ribs etc would be dang loosey and easier to dent. I do expect some oil canning and will undoubtedly dent it. I'll just tell everyone it's part of my rustic design.

Cheers,

Selo

 

[pvfjr]

nice job, over kill maybe but that doesn't hurt. I had an install similar and used cement board spaced out an in or so. sadly they wouldn't let you use that stove here in Oregon, they need to be the catalectic type .
Jay D.

Catalytic stoves aren't the only option here in Oregon, though they do make up a large portion of the approved certified stoves. They only require that they are certified, and that the emissions rate is below a certain threshold in g/hr. There are a lot of non-catalytic stoves which make use of secondary combustion; Pacific Energy makes a lot of good options. You're right about the Fischer not qualifying. Although, it's fine if it's "already there". You just can't install a new non-certified stove, and you can't sell your house with a non-certified stove installed. It doesn't even matter how well it works or what shape it's in. We're slowly turning into California.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Nice install. Just remember to check creasote buildup and chimney sweep often depending on the wood (not lumber) you are burning. Nice steel roof too.

 

[Selo]

pvfjr,

Good info. Glad I don't have to deal with that here.

Sawdustmaker,

Good advice. Thanks for the roof comment. I paid a bit extra for the 6.5/12 pitch. An upgrade from standard 4.5/12.

We just had a good snow. I think I am going to install snow guards to protect my gutters.

Selo