Woodwork Q - Rustic pine

[AndyL]

G'day All,

Ok, have a question or three, and google's not answering me for techniques, and I'm more comfortable with the steel than the wood...

On the honey-do list... Is a 'rustic pine' railing...

(ok if the direct img tag doesn't work - http://www.koch-construction.com/railing.jpg )

Talked to a couple craftsmen/woodworkers about it... That's not in the budget

I've got a source for the wood (love having arbourist friends)... But the actual method - is unfamiliar to me... Any of you able to point me in the direction of where to find a how-to / step by step / idiots guide?

 

[ghnl]

I've not used them but I've seen tools for 'Rustic Furniture' in the Rockler catalog.

 

[kbs2244]

ghnl has it down.
Those turn a peg on the end of the uprights.

Then you have to line up your matching holes in the top and bottom rails.
A low speed drill press, Forstner Bits, and extra hands are needed to keep every thing square.

 

[Shoottx]

AndyL

Here is a quick article http://www.loghomestore.com/article.php?article=12

Search "how to build log tenon furniture" there are a bunch of Youtubes and other references. The big issue with rough stock is getting everything to lineup, no where near the precision of metal working. but straight and square are still important.

 

[turbowoodworker]

You will need a spoke shave or a draw knife to more easily strip bark (if present) and smooth the rails.

 

[redjalopygarage]

http://www.lumberjacktools.com/

 

[Zeke]

However, for aesthetics, you might scribe the shape of the circumference of the rails to post and hog out the shape with Forstner bits and finish with a die grinder and a rotary rasp. The uniform pegs will make the balusters go much faster.

Make a simple layout template for the spacing.

The main concern is too make sure you don't hit any grain that will separate and cause splinters or worse. Some woods are just not suitable for use in the rough.

 

[MoonRise]

Not rocket science, but can take a bunch of fussing and fiddling to get the parts lined up nicely.

From raw green logs to finished rustic railing can be done in several ways. All involve a bunch of time and effort, hence those dizzying quotes from the craftsmen you talked to.

You can go all old-school 'Roy Underhill' or 'Chris Schwartz' on the project.

http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog

Starting with raw green logs, use drawknives to remove bark and shape those logs into more uniform cylindrical pieces of wood, then you can bore holes where needed to attach the posts and rails and balusters together, then you can rough shape integral tenons on the ends of the mating pieces so that the tenons can fit into your bored holes, then you can air dry everything appropriately. After the wood is dry, final shape the tenons, adjust the bored holes (or just do the holes at the end after the wood is dry) and then fit and assemble.

Or you can use a lathe and turn the green logs to the desired diameter, rough shape the tenons on the lathe as well. Let the wood air dry, then final shape tenons and bore holes and fit and assemble.

You can do as Zeke suggested for a more 'finished' look and scribe and shape the pieces to a "coped" fit on the end.

You can skip putting integral tenons on the shaped and smoothed logs (posts, rails, and ballusters) and go with a "floating tenon" aka peg or dowel as the connection between the various parts. With or without the coped fit.

Make some jigs to help with lining things up and helping to keep it all square and spaced evenly.

More than one way to do it.

 

[onewaydave]

My approach was a little different. I wanted more rustic of a look. Various species and sizes of wood. I bought 2 pair of sizes of hole saws. one for smaller and one for larger diameter logs/sticks. Each pair has an inside and outside diameter such that the stump of one fit into the hole of the other.

The hole saw only forms the stump on the end of a log. I them used a chisel and mallet to carve away the swarf, knowing how deep the hole saw cut.

Dave.

 

[fergus]

If you get a tenon cutter, make sure the blade is actually sharp enough. It might not be straight out of the box. It won't cut well if the angle isn't right. Ask me how I know.

Same thing goes for the draw knife.

You'll want to ask lumber yards for "lodgepole", some call them "barkies". At least that's regional lingo over here.

 

[03protege]

Just tell her iron will look better

 

[trainer]

I'd start with cedar instead of pine.....esier to peel and no sticky pitch.