Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT Woody's Works Garage

[Bob Heine]

Excellent video Dennis (I feel like a Greek warrior being one of "The 400")! I replaced the fog lights (and headlights) on our PT Cruiser with LEDs with the same result. I don't do all that much night driving so the fog lights get used more because are aimed lower and provide the same effect as DRLs in low light (the Sunshine State isn't always sunny). Here's a side-by-side with the LED on the left.

It wasn't cold or snowy so I did the temporary alignment setup on the outside of the garage door. This was the pattern with the original lights.

I didn't trust my SWAG measurement so I went with the Factory Shop Manual guidance. I was able to check several distances back from the door.

No comments from the neighbors even though the alignment tape was there for more than 24 hours. I erred on the low side of the factory specs because I am, like you, not a fan of angry oncoming drivers flashing their brights at me.

 

[Denwood]

Bob, thanks for being one of the 400 My target is to hit 500, so at 414 we're inching closer.

Dramatic difference there before and after on your PT! I've noticed of late that the Acura MDX and RDX OEM lights in particular are up high enough/bright enough so that in the LEAF, it's a literal retina burn approaching these cars, even when they are on "low" beams.

Driving our remaining ICE car, a 2014 Highlander, I noticed when stopped at idle that heat was not so good at -20 C outside....and I know what that means. Turns out coolant was low, like 4 quarts low Doing a pressure test, no leaks, however I noticed some precipitate around the cylinder heads. Head gaskets are an engine out procedure on these 2GR-FE engines, 23 hours if done at the dealer. I'm not so sure I want to tackle this job, but I'm predicting that I may indeed be doing it once I get a few quotes. Likely $5 to 6000 CAD. Yuck :-(

 

[Denwood]

After a 700km road trip, the 2014 Highlander used about zero coolant, and there was nothing to observe in the pressure test. Hmmm.

In any case, the rear diff, transfer case, and transmission were long overdue for a fluid change. Toyota calls these "lifetime fills", but I'm not a believer. As it is, at 151 800 kms and 10 years, I should have done all of this, including the coolant flush 5 years ago.

2014 Highlander Service 151 800 kms.
1. Coolant flush with Toyota OEM coolant.
2. Engine oil and filter change - synthetic 0w20.
3. Rear Diff fluid change, -75w 90 synthetic
4. Transfer case fluid change - 75w90 synthetic
5. Transmission dump/fill with Valvoline Max Life Synthetic.

Up on the hoist...again.



151 805 kms on the odo...


Rear Diff Drain and fill, 10mm hex, 35 lb/fts tighten. 75w90 synth fill, about .8 liters.



Transfer case drain and fill - 24mm socket, 35 ft/lbs tighten. 75w90 synth fill, about 1 liter.



Driver side wheel removed and panel rotated in wheel well to expose 24mm socket transmission fill port. 35 ft/lbs tighten. About 4 liters of fluid added via hose and funnel.



There is no dipstick on these 2GR-FE engines with six speed trans. You remove the 6mm drain bolt, then a plastic "level" tube which is hiding up in the drain hole using a 6mm hex. Then you replace the fill tube and drain bolt, run the car (on the hoist is easiest), cycle the gears a few times, then wait for the trans fluid to reach 103-110F. I used the Toyota Techstream software and a laptop for this. You select the ECT System, click the right arrow, and then click Data to pull up the live data on the trans.



With oil temp (A/T oil Temperature 1) at 104 F, and the car still running, I pulled the drain bolt, but left the fill tube in place. Once the excess oil drained out...back in with the drain bolt and Bob's your uncle. Kinda miss the transmission dip stick already...Jeepers.

 

[jonshonda]

In any case, the rear diff, transfer case, and transmission were long overdue for a fluid change. Toyota calls these "lifetime fills", but I'm not a believer.

My GX460 manual lists fluid change intervals for severe use, which includes towing and having a cargo carrier on the roof. So "lifetime" isn't exactly accurate.

Regardless I changed all fluids at 60k as there is no harm in doing so. Redline fluids has a kit already put together for the GX to include all fluids including their version of unicorn tears for the transfer case.

 

[Denwood]

My GX460 manual lists fluid change intervals for severe use, which includes towing and having a cargo carrier on the roof. So "lifetime" isn't exactly accurate.

Regardless I changed all fluids at 60k as there is no harm in doing so. Redline fluids has a kit already put together for the GX to include all fluids including their version of unicorn tears for the transfer case.

The irony of the 2GR-FE engine is that is a very durable drivetrain, but only if you maintain it. I think if I'd done a deep dive on it earlier, (it's ignored a bit as we don't drive it much) I would have been doing frequent coolant changes. The fact that these are all aluminum block/heads with a steel head gasket kind of raises the flag on the need to keep corrosion in check. I think there is some coolant seepage externally leaking from the head, perhaps only showing up when the car is hot, or driven harder as it was this summer on a 3500 km trip. This likely could have been avoided with 4-5 year coolant changes :-( The head gaskets can also fail due to external corrosion/creep...and we're in the salt zone. I'm very careful these days about washing engines as other issues can be caused if you're not super careful with water and pressure around all the electronics. That said, some low pressure rinsing around the heads is likely not a bad idea. Techstream was not showing any misfire codes, so I'm thinking a combustion to coolant head gasket leak is unlikely.

The Car Care Nut is an amazing resource for these cars: https://www.youtube.com/@TheCarCareNut

 

[jonshonda]

My wife's 2011 Sienna developed an external leak from the head gasket. One day there was just a small puddle on the ground and I was like wtf. I was just creeping up on 120k miles and is an engine out procedure, so I kicked it on down the road.

The one thing I did consider is actually using one of the coolant stop leak solutions as they are meant for leaks that are external or come in contact with oxygen. My wife still misses the Sienna and wants another one, and I will make sure to find a southern vehicle with good records.

The car care nut is awesome and you know he cares way more about the car then the money....which is rare these days.

 

[ericm]

Redline fluids has a kit already put together for the GX to include all fluids including their version of unicorn tears for the transfer case.

Do you have a link to that kit? I can't find it anywhere, and it'd be perfect for my GX.

 

[jonshonda]

Do you have a link to that kit? I can't find it anywhere, and it'd be perfect for my GX.

Just head to the Redline website and enter your vehicle. They list the oils and quantities needed, so not so much of a kit as just making it easy to order.

Click Here For A Good Time

 

[nicholam77]

Temps have dropped down to -25C, so naturally I'm out flying the drone. DJI lists the operating cutoff as -10C, but I'm here in wind chills of -31 C, doing just fine

Wow, so you are pretty close to the lake!

Of course you are pushing the manufacturer specs with scientific analysis haha, I love it.

I appreciated the pigeon commentary.

Are you using a new mic? Audio is sounding great on your videos. Mind sharing your setup?

I know you said you don't have a specific plan for YouTube monetization, but it's nice to see you have some pre-roll ads on your videos now. Gaining traction!

I've had an eye on drone footage in professional film production (advertising) for at least a decade, and like many things, it has gotten so much better. DJI has always been a front runner.

I have to say, even though it's not inexpensive by most people's standards, I am very impressed with your DJI Mini Pro 4 footage. It seems to have enough dynamic range for a good exposure. Can be tough with snow on a bright day but that shot you got looks very natural and great sky.

Keep up the great work and happy holidays Dennis!

 

[Denwood]

Thanks Nick (@nicholam77 )

Yes, I've pretty much grown up either directly on, or beside the lake so I guess no surprise with all the sailing etc

I've been shooting HLG, or LOG (both 10 bit formats) with the Mini4 Pro and also uploading in 10 bit (HDR) formats. I'm learning a lot about colour spaces, grading etc. in Davinci but the Mini 4 pro stuff honestly doesn't need much for grading. The camera on that drone is miles and miles better than the Potensic Atom. And yes, blocking off a few vent ports allows me to fly it just fine in -20 C...ha.

The night footage from the Mini 4 Pro is almost hard to believe. Aside from the baked in noise reduction etc. it's suprising. Here's a quick shot from my place which you can play in 4K.

On the mics, thanks again for the feedback. I figure clean audio is about 40-50% of a clip's quality that no one generally thinks about! I am loving the Hollyland Lark M2 Combo as it has everything you need to connect two mics to action cams, cameras, iOS or Android. The one little bit I needed to add was a Rode AI Micro so I could record in two discrete stereo channels when recording on on iOS. That said, about 99% of the audio is just using a single mic (they are tiny with a magnetic backing) and the iOS dongle Lark provides. Range is way more than I need and battery life is very impressive too, both on the mics themselves and the charging case. Pretty much all the video is shot on the iPhone 15 Pro Max in Apple log (so again 10 bit) using the free Blackmagic Camera app. That app is amazing, and free. I use an older iPhone as a remote (using the same Blackmagic iOS app) so I can frame properly, start, stop, check audio etc.

A few of the new videos seem to have gained some traction The one on CV axle failure diagnosis is up around 16K plays now. I think folks like to see a problem postulated, then a tear down after to prove the diagnosis. The Car Care Nut on YT is all about this and in the perfect scenario to have a working shop, specializing in Lexus and Toyota. He's deservedly well beyond a million followers.

 

[Denwood]

My wife's 2011 Sienna developed an external leak from the head gasket. One day there was just a small puddle on the ground and I was like wtf. I was just creeping up on 120k miles and is an engine out procedure, so I kicked it on down the road.

The one thing I did consider is actually using one of the coolant stop leak solutions as they are meant for leaks that are external or come in contact with oxygen. My wife still misses the Sienna and wants another one, and I will make sure to find a southern vehicle with good records.

The car care nut is awesome and you know he cares way more about the car then the money....which is rare these days.

That Sienna had the same engine I suspect. Massive PITA to get to the head gaskets as with the Highlander :-( I have a bottle of Kseal (uses ceramic fibers) but I’m not using it unless we’re stuck. I’m sure we’re on the same wavelength with respect to sealants, but Subaru made it “official” with the use of sealant in their leaky boxer engines. I just wish I could find an actual leak.

 

[jonshonda]

That Sienna had the same engine I suspect. Massive PITA to get to the head gaskets as with the Highlander :-( I have a bottle of Kseal (uses ceramic fibers) but I’m not using it unless we’re stuck. I’m sure we’re on the same wavelength with respect to sealants, but Subaru made it “official” with the use of sealant in their leaky boxer engines. I just wish I could find an actual leak.

Car care nut makes it seem like engine out on sienna and highlander isn't a huge deal, but of course after you've done dozens of them it really isn't something you consider hard any more. I just have an issue with any engine out repair and the longevity after major surgery like head gaskets....regardless of who is performing the procedure.

 

[Denwood]

Car care nut makes it seem like engine out on sienna and highlander isn't a huge deal, but of course after you've done dozens of them it really isn't something you consider hard any more. I just have an issue with any engine out repair and the longevity after major surgery like head gaskets....regardless of who is performing the procedure.

100%. The odds of missing something on the 100 odd parts that have to be removed, timing issues, leaks etc etc means you really have to love the car to do it. I built a custom Audi engine literally from the pistons on up for my 90 Westfalia engine conversion and that ended up taking many,many hours to complete…like weeks of work. That was a much simpler engine! I could do the Highlander job but again, the one-off nature of this job (for me) makes it risky. Kseal is about $30…ha.

 

[Bob Heine]

Driver side wheel removed and panel rotated in wheel well to expose 24mm socket transmission fill port. 35 ft/lbs tighten. About 4 liters of fluid added via hose and funnel.

Dennis, I had another flashback from that photo. The last piece of the drivetrain I tackled in my big block '72 Corvette was the differential. There's no drain plug in the differential so I took it out of the car. The top of the rear cover bolts to the crossmember and the transverse leaf spring bolts to the bottom of said cover so it's the smaller and simpler version of your Highlander's engine repair.

I had heard a slight rumble in the rearend and some leakage around the axle stubs so the only parts replaced were the two caged needle bearings and the gaskets. I don't think I went overboard but I did spray a little epoxy on the crossmember, brackets and braces as well as the differential housing.

The unintended consequence of doing this was how bad everything around it looked. A polished turd in a pile of turds really stands out. I stopped the slide down the slippery slope long enough to fill the differential but it took a length of 1/2" copper tubing, matching rubber hose and the perfect size funnel so I had my hand free to pour posi gear oil. That was a trial and error process that required an additional quart of gear oil.
That last photo resulted in new offset trailing arms, coilovers and a huge pile of worn-out 3M multi-color Roloc disks.

Just head to the Redline website and enter your vehicle. They list the oils and quantities needed, so not so much of a kit as just making it easy to order.

Click Here For A Good Time

Jon, my cursor hovered over that link for a really long time before I clicked on it. Does Redline know what else is on the internet with links like that one?

 

[Denwood]

Dennis, I had another flashback from that photo. The last piece of the drivetrain I tackled in my big block '72 Corvette was the differential. There's no drain plug in the differential so I took it out of the car. The top of the rear cover bolts to the crossmember and the transverse leaf spring bolts to the bottom of said cover so it's the smaller and simpler version of your Highlander's engine repair.

I had heard a slight rumble in the rearend and some leakage around the axle stubs so the only parts replaced were the two caged needle bearings and the gaskets. I don't think I went overboard but I did spray a little epoxy on the crossmember, brackets and braces as well as the differential housing.

The unintended consequence of doing this was how bad everything around it looked. A polished turd in a pile of turds really stands out. I stopped the slide down the slippery slope long enough to fill the differential but it took a length of 1/2" copper tubing, matching rubber hose and the perfect size funnel so I had my hand free to pour posi gear oil. That was a trial and error process that required an additional quart of gear oil.
That last photo resulted in new offset trailing arms, coilovers and a huge pile of worn-out 3M multi-color Roloc disks.

Jon, my cursor hovered over that link for a really long time before I clicked on it. Does Redline know what else is on the internet with links like that one?

Call me wierd but I honestly think the working bits of a differential are as much art as they are functional. I put a Quaife torque biasing diff in my autocross cross car that would have looked very nice on a display shelf with some cool lighting. It certainly cost more than any art bits in our house…

 

[jon72vega]

Dennis,
Merry Christmas to you and your family!

 

[Denwood]

Dennis,
Merry Christmas to you and your family!

Best to you and all the merry garage crew

 

[PhantomEB]

Dennis, I had another flashback from that photo. The last piece of the drivetrain I tackled in my big block '72 Corvette was the differential. There's no drain plug in the differential so I took it out of the car. The top of the rear cover bolts to the crossmember and the transverse leaf spring bolts to the bottom of said cover so it's the smaller and simpler version of your Highlander's engine repair.

I had heard a slight rumble in the rearend and some leakage around the axle stubs so the only parts replaced were the two caged needle bearings and the gaskets. I don't think I went overboard but I did spray a little epoxy on the crossmember, brackets and braces as well as the differential housing.

The unintended consequence of doing this was how bad everything around it looked. A polished turd in a pile of turds really stands out. I stopped the slide down the slippery slope long enough to fill the differential but it took a length of 1/2" copper tubing, matching rubber hose and the perfect size funnel so I had my hand free to pour posi gear oil. That was a trial and error process that required an additional quart of gear oil.
That last photo resulted in new offset trailing arms, coilovers and a huge pile of worn-out 3M multi-color Roloc disks.

Jon, my cursor hovered over that link for a really long time before I clicked on it. Does Redline know what else is on the internet with links like that one?

I so am stealing that idea when it’s time to fill up my EB diffs some more. Gear oil makes me nauseous.

 

[jonshonda]

Jon, my cursor hovered over that link for a really long time before I clicked on it. Does Redline know what else is on the internet with links like that one?

When you post a link using the GJ link tool you can enter whatever text you want, so that was me being funny!

 

[Trapps]

Thanks for filling my head with drone thoughts. Automotive and automation I do appreciate.

Happy 2025 Dennis, to you and your family!

 

[zanyad]

Merry Christmas and happy New Year!

 

[Denwood]

Thanks for filling my head with drone thoughts. Automotive and automation I do appreciate.

Happy 2025 Dennis, to you and your family!

Sorry about that, but best wishes right back at you

Merry Christmas and happy New Year!

To you as well. Thanks again for all the likes and feedback

 

[Denwood]

It's been cold, like really cold! Last night we dipped down to the -35°C (-31°F), with a windchill value of -44°C. I've been capturing hyper-lapses over the last two months of the Lake to capture some of the magic I see out there every morning Play it in 4K resolution!

 

[drivesitfar]

I’m at zero Celsius and I’m in long underwear and two hoodies to go do a little work outside and this is cold to me. Great video and hope it warms up a bit or maybe you’ve really got life running in your blood.

Care to share who is playing or where you got the music? Good combo!!

 

[Denwood]

I’m at zero Celsius and I’m in long underwear and two hoodies to go do a little work outside and this is cold to me. Great video and hope it warms up a bit or maybe you’ve really got life running in your blood.

Care to share who is playing or where you got the music? Good combo!!

-35C is pretty cold, even for us. The ski hills closed over the weekend, a pretty unusual event. Good news is that it’s just for a few more days…

 

[Denwood]

I’m at zero Celsius and I’m in long underwear and two hoodies to go do a little work outside and this is cold to me. Great video and hope it warms up a bit or maybe you’ve really got life running in your blood.

Care to share who is playing or where you got the music? Good combo!!

Sorry @drivesitfar ... the music is from YouTube's royalty-free library: "American Vernacular" from the Artist "Rage". I figure the best way to avoid any copyright issues is to try and use tracks from their own library!

 

[nicholam77]

It's been cold, like really cold! Last night we dipped down to the -35°C (-31°F), with a windchill value of -44°C. I've been capturing hyper-lapses over the last two months of the Lake to capture some of the magic I see out there every morning Play it in 4K resolution!

Wow, and I thought I had it bad with -18° F and windchill in the -30's!! I know you did your mods but surprised the drone is hanging in there!

Great footage, Dennis!

 

[drivesitfar]

My bride watched your video too and she liked the music and she may have located it with her Shazam app but thought I’d ask. It also looks like temps that cold don’t shut down the town or it’s resilient peeps.

Thanks and stay warm!!

 

[Denwood]

Wow, and I thought I had it bad with -18° F and windchill in the -30's!! I know you did your mods but surprised the drone is hanging in there!

Great footage, Dennis!

Thanks Nick. So far so good with the DJI Mini 4 Pro. I was a bit apprehensive at -33°C, but the battery temps did not drop below 10°C, which is just fine for them

My bride watched your video too and she liked the music and she may have located it with her Shazam app but thought I’d ask. It also looks like temps that cold don’t shut down the town or it’s resilient peeps.

Thanks and stay warm!!

The temps don't shut things down per se, but it's sure good for battery sales. My daughter's LEAF cabin heater was acting a bit weird (as in not coming in on) so I replaced her 12V battery last night as that can often be the culprit with respect to strange EV issues. The parts store was sold out of most of their batteries! The computer systems, CAN bus, and all that run off a plain old 12V battery, albeit a smaller one at 420 CCA...there's no starter to crank! The PTC (electric) cabin heater is run directly from the pack at 400 volts, which means it does not need massive wires run to it. I have fingers crossed that it behaves now as it is a royal PITA to replace, buried in the dash.

 

[Bob Heine]

Dennis, it's 57°F and 95% at the moment (it's raining on and off) and we're bundled up. Florida homes typically have forced air heat and cooling but with emphasis on cooling. All the duct vents are in the ceiling so I run ceiling fans to move some of the heated air lower in the rooms.

 

[Denwood]

Dennis, it's 57°F and 95% at the moment (it's raining on and off) and we're bundled up. Florida homes typically have forced air heat and cooling but with emphasis on cooling. All the duct vents are in the ceiling so I run ceiling fans to move some of the heated air lower in the rooms.

All those Canadian retirees living six months in Florida every year certainly have it sorted…ha.

 

[drivesitfar]

Bob: while we are freezing I can't recall you ever mentioning that your temps drop below 60 so that's a first. do you still have 95% humidity is my guess at what that number is?

Woody: congrats on getting your drone to fly at -44 degrees cause I think you mentioned that the manufacturer literature says it won't fly if colder than -10. well done and nice work keeping the Leaf functioning even though the parts you wanted were not available.

stay warm!!!

 

[drivesitfar]

Woody: are you coming out of the deep freeze yet? we had a 63 day last week and OMG maybe you should move here.

I know you love the summers and maybe even the freezer times there so you do you and hope you are doing ok. yes??

 

[Denwood]

Woody: are you coming out of the deep freeze yet? we had a 63 day last week and OMG maybe you should move here.

I know you love the summers and maybe even the freezer times there so you do you and hope you are doing ok. yes??

Drives, yes..spring is slowly upon us, but the some snow remains. It's the least favorite part of the year for me as biking on the trails is not great and most lakes still have ice on them :-(

I've been busy in the shop though and just uploaded the update to my first ever YouTube video, uploaded 10 years ago. That piece has over 220 000 views. "How to Sharpen A Fiskars Reel Mower"

This new one is in 4K resolution and reflects some technology updates. That said, I have to give massive kudos to Fiskars Customer Service who sent me a new chain, adjustment knob, and new front wheels for the rather attractive price of $0. I sent a request in to purchase these bits which are apparently covered by a lifetime warranty. No receipt was required, just a few photos of the mower. It's simply outstanding service! I have to admit I also learned a few new things during this "super tune" adventure, namely the existence and function of the roller clutch. This little mechanical marvel is apparently pretty ubiquitous, yet I've never serviced one before in my shop. The video at time code 13:54 covers that hidden gem in this reel mower.

 

[Denwood]

If any of you are roller clutch specialists, I'd love to hear from you on the appropriate lube for these. I understand that some very precise versions of these are also used in higher end fishing reels.

This is a super tiny roller bearing clutch used in Shimano fishing reels:



I used Dumond Tech Freehub Oil from my bike service collection which is a light oil, likely synthetic as it flows down to -40C. I tend to be slightly thunder struck when I encounter a mechanical design this simple, yet works so well, so long, with minimal wear. This one saw zero lube for a decade yet works perfectly well.

Fiskars Reel Mower Roller Clutch:

 

[Denwood]

Sadly, here the current project in the shop. Our 2018 LEAF (EV) started this spring with a super small coolant leak that I simply could not locate. I caught the faintest whiff of coolant when parking one day and upon checking the coolant reservoir, was quite surprised to see that it was low. However, with a 5 psi working pressure, I could not find a leak. I added some UV dye and figured it would get worse soon...and of course, it did. UV dye and a black light are pretty handy tools to have in the shop. The added benefit is that any coolant leaking out on the ground fluoresces bright green under sunlight and is impossible to miss.

EVs do indeed have coolant systems. The LEAF version is pretty simple, circulating through the power delivery unit (onboard charger), the inverter that provides 3 phase AC power to the motor from 400 volt DC via the battery, and the motor itself. Coolant temps would likely never exceed 60C, and again the working pressure is only 5 psi. Most EVs today also have battery coolant loops. Needless to say, you need to 100% know what you're doing if you're going to service these systems as they have unique differences from their ICE equivalents.

Using any kind of stop leak product is 100% out of the question and would likely lead to some very costly repairs.

 

[Denwood]

So a lot of bits to remove to get to this EV’s little radiator…

This was the first time I’ve pulled the fascia off a “modern” car. It was not so bad of a job.

The radiator is actually in front of the heat pump condenser/evaporator in this car. The rad is removed in this shot.


I was a bit concerned about dealing with the front camera (the car has 5 cameras in total) and the front radar as I could not find a lot of info on them without a factory manual. The front camera harness has a disconnect right at the upper front driver side corner of the fascia and the rest of the camera and harness m stays with the front fascia. The radar unit up front does not need to be touched. This is good as an ADAS alignment on the radar likely won’t be needed. Those are $300-$500….

All ready to swap in the new radiator.

 

[fourmotioneer]

So, curious why you would be against a stop leak product. Any specifics or a general caution? I can see plenty of risks and I’m just curious of what you might have learned

I work in BEV thermal systems (well, for two more weeks) and honestly I’d expect very little harm from some stop leak. I guess it depends on how quickly the product dissolves and where it ends up. If you have stacked plate HXs for oil/coolant on the drive motors and they are first in series then maybe those could plug? Inverters should be safe. Even a battery cooling plate (N/A here) should be safe.

Would be curious if 60C max temp is high enough to get product to work effectively.

Do people generally plug oil coolers and radiators on ICE vehicles with stop leak products?

The heat transfer isn’t affected much just due to the limited thickness of any layer of buildup.

Not ideal by any stretch and I have zero experience with the products but I imagine the risk is same ICE/BEV. All of this to say…you made the right choice but I wonder if the alternative is really that bad just out of curiosity

 

[Denwood]

So, curious why you would be against a stop leak product. Any specifics or a general caution? I can see plenty of risks and I’m just curious of what you might have learned

I work in BEV thermal systems (well, for two more weeks) and honestly I’d expect very little harm from some stop leak. I guess it depends on how quickly the product dissolves and where it ends up. If you have stacked plate HXs for oil/coolant on the drive motors and they are first in series then maybe those could plug? Inverters should be safe. Even a battery cooling plate (N/A here) should be safe.

Would be curious if 60C max temp is high enough to get product to work effectively.

Do people generally plug oil coolers and radiators on ICE vehicles with stop leak products?

The heat transfer isn’t affected much just due to the limited thickness of any layer of buildup.

Not ideal by any stretch and I have zero experience with the products but I imagine the risk is same ICE/BEV. All of this to say…you made the right choice but I wonder if the alternative is really that bad just out of curiosity

Great question...and excellent follow up. I did a bit of digging on this one. I'd agree that if you look at say the coolant path in the LEAF PDU cooling plate, it looks relatively open. GM released this TSB: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10138018-9999.pdf which is referencing the BOLT EV, and all of their hybrids. Here are a few quotes from that TSB:

If a Stop Leak Product or Additives Have Been Used in the Passenger Compartment Heater System

If a stop leak product or additives are used in the passenger compartment heater system, the heater core, heater core outlet filter (if equipped), thermostat and coolant must be replaced. The entire passenger compartment heater system must be removed to thoroughly flush/clean the stop leak/additive. If the stop leak/additive cannot be properly flushed/cleaned or you can’t determine if the product was completely removed, then the part(s) must be replaced. If any of the stop leak/additive is left behind, the vehicle may experience a repeat issue when the system is filled with coolant.

If a Stop Leak Product or Additives Have Been Used in Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Cooling System

If a stop leak product or additives are used in the Hybrid/EV battery pack cooling system, the coolant and Hybrid/EV battery pack may have to be replaced due to codes set for clogged orifices, overheating, and/or isolation faults. Once the HV battery is replaced the entire HV battery coolant system has to be removed to thoroughly flush/clean the stop leak/additive. If the stop leak/additive cannot be properly flushed/cleaned or you can’t determine if the stop leak/additive was completely removed, then the part(s) must be replaced. If any of the stop leak/additive is left behind, the vehicle may experience a repeat issue when the system is filled with coolant.

If a Stop Leak Product or Additives Have Been Used in the Hybrid Electronics Cooling System

If a stop leak product or additives are used in the Hybrid Electronics Cooling System, the electronic control modules may have to be replaced. The entire Hybrid Electronics Cooling System must be removed to thoroughly flush/clean the stop leak/additive. If the stop leak/additive cannot be properly flushed/cleaned or you can’t determine if the product was completely removed, then the part(s) must be replaced. If any of the stop leak/additive is left behind, the vehicle may experience a repeat issue when the system is filled with coolant.

GM evidently is quite emphatic on not using a stop leak product! Further, products like K-Seal require operating temps (195-215 F) to cure, something you'll never see in an EV cooling system. The final nail in the coffin are the relatively fine coolant passages, and fairly low/variable electric pump pressures as you would see in with battery coolant system. When charging for example the electric coolant pump is running at variable speed, depending on sensor temps from the motor stack. So what does stop leak do with cold coolant, running at very low pressure, and at very low flow rates? The LEAF does not have battery cooling, but again even if operating temps were up enough to cure a stop leak product, I still would not risk using it. In my experience these products are temporary, regardless, so the best bet is just to fix the leak properly. The internet is full of reports of plugged radiators etc. based on stop leak products, but there are so many variables at play, I would not even try and guess what goes wrong.

Now, all that said, it sounds like you would be far more qualified to make this call as someone working in the world of BEV cooling. It would be awesome to find a product that might actually be safe in a BEV. Thoughts? I will be doing a post mortem on the LEAF radiator failure which I suspect is at the radiator end tank(s) seal. The radiator is so "delicate" I'm betting that vibration/impact is the problem there at the core/end tank interface. I'm not sure this would be fixed even in an ICE car with stop leak based on recurrence.

 

[fourmotioneer]

I’m no more qualified since I’ve never actually tested it! In short, it’s easier for the program to prohibit the stop leak product than it is to come up with the time and money to potentially destroy a vehicle cooling system.

Agree that the low temps are an issue. The low flow rates (it’s fluid mass*velocity aka momentum that moves stop leak particles not pressure as the pressure delta in a tube for example is minimal with respect to displacement) are likely a contributor as you stated.

On the Bolt I’m not entirely familiar with the system but I see a flat brazed or welded or roll bonded aluminum cooling plate and based on the notes you provided they may use orifices to balance flow among battery cells/modules. Still, I’d imagine that the orifices aren’t necessarily going to plug with a uniform distribution of product. If the low temps lead to chunks flying around? Yeah, you’re screwed.

Any coolant valves would probably be biggest source of risk with loose debris due to tendency of ball valves to jam with debris and lead to overloading and breakage of the drive mechanism.

The GM notes read very CYA which is smart on their end in protecting the customer and themselves from potential fire

I would tend to not use any product not because the probability of an issue is so high but because I’m tearing down a lot of stuff if there actually is an issue.

Haven’t released any crimped end tank rads myself but there is compression set in the seal to account for not to mention creep in the plastic end tanks. Less common on BEV would be pressure fatigue, and the temp cycles certainly are present albeit more gentle. If a part is designed to 10yrs 150k miles they aren’t going to give you much extra fatigue life than that on a plastic part