Work Bench Build

[Iwearcrocs]

Starting to figure out what I want the long workbench in my shop to look like.

This will be along the long back wall where the computer desk is showing. The wall to the right will end up being a miter saw work station, thats why there is 2' cutoff and left blank in the drawing, allowing for the miter workbench the room.

Do you think a wood frame would look alright for the 2 husky toolboxes? I will be taking the wheels off.

Looking for suggestions on the 4' space i have labeled "open space". Leave nothing under there and have space to sit? Can always had something in later.

Pegboard the entire area from top of workbench all around the upper cabinets? Or something else?

Trying to decide on putting a backsplash of some kind or have pegboard run down to the top of bench.

Trying to decide on a material to finish the top of the workbench with. Metal, wood, or Laminate countertop. I have a big rolling workbench, and will have some other workbench space that will be wood.

Upper cabinet placement height? I am 5'9.

I have, all the upper cabinets and 1 husky toolbox (black friday, I should've grabbed a second). I'm not stuck on getting a matching box, but it seems like the best option. I could just build more cupboard and shelf space, it would probably save about $150.

Materials I will need:

3 Sheets pegboard: 60
2 Sheets purebond plywood for cabinets: 100
2 Sheets plywood for top: 70
Frame material for Toolboxes: 75
(1) Husky Toolbox: 298
Misc Hardware: 75
Drawer Slides: 30
Bench Top: ????

Trying to keep this under 1,000.

Thanks for any input you might have.

 

[matt_i]

Imo, the work surface should match your intended work. Rough stuff and/or grease = stainless sheetmetal, 1/4" masonite should handle most general work and be replaceable if needed, and you could go with a solid wood glue-up like a butcher block or a solid wood strip-floor if you had the skills and equipment.

 

[Iwearcrocs]

After doing some more pricing and research, leaning towards doing plywood + hardwood flooring.


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[bdbecker]

I would keep the open space for a stool or chair. I rarely sit down in the garage (do that enough at work) but when I do, its nice to have a spot for it. You can always fill it in later if you find you want more storage space.

How deep are you going to make the top? This will affect how high you can mount your upper cabinets. Too deep and the back just becomes a collection point for junk. Too shallow and the bench limits what you can work on. 28-30" seems to be the magic number for me. The space you will lose behind your Husky cabinets could be used for storing rarely used items.

Also, are you going to leave a lip/overhang on the front of the bench top? Having a few inches is pretty handy for clamping stuff down when needed.

Have you considered putting the upper cabinets to the sides instead of right in the middle? Personally, I find working with a cabinet right in my face a little claustrophobic.

All of these things are just things to think about, you have to do what works best for you. I really dig where you are headed with it - I think it will look really sharp.

 

[Iwearcrocs]

I would keep the open space for a stool or chair. I rarely sit down in the garage (do that enough at work) but when I do, its nice to have a spot for it. You can always fill it in later if you find you want more storage space.

How deep are you going to make the top? This will affect how high you can mount your upper cabinets. Too deep and the back just becomes a collection point for junk. Too shallow and the bench limits what you can work on. 28-30" seems to be the magic number for me. The space you will lose behind your Husky cabinets could be used for storing rarely used items.

Also, are you going to leave a lip/overhang on the front of the bench top? Having a few inches is pretty handy for clamping stuff down when needed.

Have you considered putting the upper cabinets to the sides instead of right in the middle? Personally, I find working with a cabinet right in my face a little claustrophobic.

All of these things are just things to think about, you have to do what works best for you. I really dig where you are headed with it - I think it will look really sharp.

Depth wise, probably 28" including a couple inches of overhang for clamp usage. I'll try a couple test depths when reaching over.

Great advice about the cabinets in the middle and staring at them, I never would've thought about that.

I'm working on drawing the plans for the miterbench since they will share that corner.


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[-Brent-]

I like where you're headed with this design. I think wood framing will work fine especially if you're fabricating those bottom cabinets. Is that your plan to build the cabinets or to buy something prefabbed?

Also, I hope you get a matching box because it's all so symmetrical the way it's drawn up.

 

[bdbecker]

Just thinking out loud (on a keyboard?) here... a version of Clint's aerosol cart could be pretty slick behind the Husky boxes. Just pull them to the open space when you need to access them, push them out of the way when they aren't needed.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5930552&postcount=36

 

[Iwearcrocs]

I like where you're headed with this design. I think wood framing will work fine especially if you're fabricating those bottom cabinets. Is that your plan to build the cabinets or to buy something prefabbed?

Also, I hope you get a matching box because it's all so symmetrical the way it's drawn up.

My plan is to build the bottom cabinets. Yeah I "need" to get a matching toolbox, just hard knowing it is now $100 bucks more then on BF.


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[Iwearcrocs]

Just thinking out loud (on a keyboard?) here... a version of Clint's aerosol cart could be pretty slick behind the Husky boxes. Just pull them to the open space when you need to access them, push them out of the way when they aren't needed.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5930552&postcount=36

I really like this idea, I could keep them behind and they would still fit under the counter!


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[Iwearcrocs]

Well I'm under way. Scored some craigslist cabinets!



My Shop: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348643

 

[beakie]

depends how tall you are, but reaching for objects near the top of the pegboard 6'+ high and over a cabinet 2' deep won't be easy.

score some upper cabinets and have them high for storage/occassional use, have a step stool handy for them.

pegboard under them, so you're only reaching upto 6' high over the workbench for everyday tools/items.

 

[Iwearcrocs]

depends how tall you are, but reaching for objects near the top of the pegboard 6'+ high and over a cabinet 2' deep won't be easy.

score some upper cabinets and have them high for storage/occassional use, have a step stool handy for them.

pegboard under them, so you're only reaching upto 6' high over the workbench for everyday tools/items.

That's the plan beakie, I think I'm going to have the upper cabinets 12-18" above the workbench. Then I will pegboard between and maybe under.

I have all the upper cabinets, scores them for $5 a piece!


My Shop: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348643

 

[Iwearcrocs]

Got one base box built for toolbox and hung the upper cabinets. I can reach the top shelves comfortably once I account for the depth of the bench top. I feel like they are pretty low but I can access them. I could raise them 6" more but would need a step stool to reach top shelf, I could always put rarely used items up top as it would give me a bit more workspace for the bench.

I have a bunch of leftover 16' cedar 1x3, true 1"x3" they were a mill extra bundle for .03 cents a foot. For the sake of saving some money I'm going to try and rip them in have and make a 1.5" thick butcher block that runs the whole length. If it doesn't work I'll be out a couple hours of labor and minimal other materials.


My Shop: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348643

 

[R_einan]

I scored a decent sized cut off of 1/4 nylon reinforced rubber potato bin liner, used that over the area around my room chest, which I built the bench around. For most uses, I really like the rubber top, things won't slide, doesn't cut or show abrasion easily, and if you have to hammer a bit it doesn't bounce and protects the OSB underneath. I'll admit, bench is a little tall for most, but hits me at waist level and I'm 6'3".

 

[Iwearcrocs]

I scored a decent sized cut off of 1/4 nylon reinforced rubber potato bin liner, used that over the area around my room chest, which I built the bench around. For most uses, I really like the rubber top, things won't slide, doesn't cut or show abrasion easily, and if you have to hammer a bit it doesn't bounce and protects the OSB underneath. I'll admit, bench is a little tall for most, but hits me at waist level and I'm 6'3".

That looks really nice. I have been thinking about doing some alternative surface for part of it, maybe I can scrounge something up on CL. One idea was to recess a piece of plate metal maybe a 3 foot section in the butcher block top.


My Shop: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348643

 

[bdbecker]

It's coming together!

 

[R_einan]

Thanks, sorry about the crappy pic, here is a better view of the surface.

 

[Iwearcrocs]

Making some more progress. Thought about skipping pegboard under the cabinets but decided adding some extra support for them would be a good bonus since the pegboard would need a spacer anyway.

Need to drill some holes in the cabinet on the right side to run my Ethernet and power cables so my router and solar box can't sit on the top.

Hopefully starting on the workbench top this weekend.

Thinking about putting some lumber storage racks above the cabinets.




My Shop: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348643

 

[Iwearcrocs]

Well I took a look at the 1x3 cedar I have. Sadly it's rough cut and random sizes, varies from 3/4 to 1" thick and 2.5-3.25" wide. I will end up just using it for my fence. Will probably head to HD tomorrow and grab some 2x4s to rip.


My Shop: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348643

 

[D rock]

Personally, I would do the pegboard last...When my shop was built I had this bright idea to put peg board on all the walls to hang up everything...all 30x40 foot of it...needless to say I have since put shelving over the pegboard and concocted other ways of storing things and the pegboard although still on the walls gets little to no use...I am about to build on to my shop and this time I will use little to no pegboard and learn from my mistake. That's just me...if I did right the first time I would save so much money.

 

[Iwearcrocs]

Personally, I would do the pegboard last...When my shop was built I had this bright idea to put peg board on all the walls to hang up everything...all 30x40 foot of it...needless to say I have since put shelving over the pegboard and concocted other ways of storing things and the pegboard although still on the walls gets little to no use...I am about to build on to my shop and this time I will use little to no pegboard and learn from my mistake. That's just me...if I did right the first time I would save so much money.

Good advice, I will sit back and evaluate what the rest of my space will look like. I'm thinking this will be the only spot I put it.


My Shop: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348643

 

[cdestuck]

Starting to figure out what I want the long workbench in my shop to look like.

This will be along the long back wall where the computer desk is showing. The wall to the right will end up being a miter saw work station, thats why there is 2' cutoff and left blank in the drawing, allowing for the miter workbench the room.

Do you think a wood frame would look alright for the 2 husky toolboxes? I will be taking the wheels off.

Looking for suggestions on the 4' space i have labeled "open space". Leave nothing under there and have space to sit? Can always had something in later.

Pegboard the entire area from top of workbench all around the upper cabinets? Or something else?

Trying to decide on putting a backsplash of some kind or have pegboard run down to the top of bench.

Trying to decide on a material to finish the top of the workbench with. Metal, wood, or Laminate countertop. I have a big rolling workbench, and will have some other workbench space that will be wood.

Upper cabinet placement height? I am 5'9.

I have, all the upper cabinets and 1 husky toolbox (black friday, I should've grabbed a second). I'm not stuck on getting a matching box, but it seems like the best option. I could just build more cupboard and shelf space, it would probably save about $150.

Materials I will need:

3 Sheets pegboard: 60
2 Sheets purebond plywood for cabinets: 100
2 Sheets plywood for top: 70
Frame material for Toolboxes: 75
(1) Husky Toolbox: 298
Misc Hardware: 75
Drawer Slides: 30
Bench Top: ????

Trying to keep this under 1,000.

Thanks for any input you might have.

The last workbench I built for my shop I used a new solid core oak door slab. Can be cut to any size, very tuff. It gets used hard and would do it again for another bench

 

[manwithtools]

Pegboard is not as useful as we all tend to think when we start out. Tool boxes and carts are way more practical in my opinion, but every one has to figure this out on their own.