Work bench paint?

[jeepnut24]

What are you using? Both on the work surface, and on the rest of your bench? I'm looking for a good paint for the worksurface of my bench. Something durable and easy to clean, maybe an oil-based gloss?

 

[Bull]

I'm a cheap bastid, so I used two coats of stainblocking Killz primer and then a high gloss white paint that I had left over from other jobs. I am under no illusions that the work surface will stay looking good for long, but I use a piece of cardboard under the area where I am fiddling with stuff to protect the paint a bit.

 

[posaune]

I got sick of everything being SO DARK in the garage one day (haven't done electrical yet and there is only one t12 in the 24x26) so I decided to paint the bench. I just used Behr porch and deck (or something like that) paint.

The bench was pretty old and nasty, but the paint seems to be holding up well. It is dirty and has a few small chips from parts digging into the wood but overall it held up better than expected. Even if I have to repaint every few years it is better than working on dark, dirty, unfinished wood.

 

[ahaidet]

You could take the advise I got from the guy in the paint section at Lowes...

"Id just paint it with the cheapest paint we have its just going to look like **** anyway... " ...
Not sure the point of painting it if that’s your attitude... Any rate I went to Sherwin Williams after doing a little research online. Both online sources and the friendly mildly knowledgeable people at Sherwin Williams pointed me to this:



(Click Picture to go to SW site for info)

Its an enamel paint that dries very hard and stain resistant. I bought a gallon of it at the time and have been painting any wood items in my garage with that including my workbench.

So far it’s held up very well even to a little bit of welding spatter that it’s seen. The top on my main bench is covered in metal but I painted the sides of it and another smaller work surface with it and it’s held up great. I have another bench that will likely get painted with the same stuff once the weather warms up a little bit.

The people at SW told me that they no longer could sell it gallon quantities due to government regulations only quarts now (might be per state basis). Which would be enough to paint a work bench is my guess depending on the size of the bench.

 

[jeepnut24]

I'm a cheap bastid, so I used two coats of stainblocking Killz primer and then a high gloss white paint that I had left over from other jobs. I am under no illusions that the work surface will stay looking good for long, but I use a piece of cardboard under the area where I am fiddling with stuff to protect the paint a bit.

This is what I have been doing, ringing out my paint rollers when I am done priming or painting something white. However Im going to put a new top on the bench and wanted to try something different.

 

[Bull]

What are you going to use for a top?

I was going to go hog-wild and double up on 3/4 plywood or even use old oak flooring that I have taken out of my house. In the end, for the bench I just built, I decided that since it's for light work and storage I didn't need a top that could double-up as an anvil. I just used 3/4 ply.

 

[Jack Olsen]

For a painted work surface, I think the smartest path is to use something that's easy to apply additional coats to. Exterior latex that you can keep on hand isn't going to make the most durable surface, but a quick hit with a disposable roller will make it new again.

Oil based enamels or even garage-floor-type epoxies are the 'strong' route. But I personally think that I'd chip those up too, before too long.

Have you thought about a sheet of galvanized, maybe?

All that said, I don't really practice what I preach. My three most-used wood benches are stained dark and then covered with marine varnish. It's pretty to look at, but dark -- and sooner or later I'm sure I'll have to re-do them.

But do as I say, not as I do.

 

[jeepnut24]

What are you going to use for a top?

I was going to go hog-wild and double up on 3/4 plywood or even use old oak flooring that I have taken out of my house. In the end, for the bench I just built, I decided that since it's for light work and storage I didn't need a top that could double-up as an anvil. I just used 3/4 ply.

I plan on a section of 3/4 plywood on top of the current painted 1/2" particleboard.

For a painted work surface, I think the smartest path is to use something that's easy to apply additional coats to. Exterior latex that you can keep on hand isn't going to make the most durable surface, but a quick hit with a disposable roller will make it new again.

Oil based enamels or even garage-floor-type epoxies are the 'strong' route. But I personally think that I'd chip those up too, before too long.

Have you thought about a sheet of galvanized, maybe?

All that said, I don't really practice what I preach. My three most-used wood benches are stained dark and then covered with marine varnish. It's pretty to look at, but dark -- and sooner or later I'm sure I'll have to re-do them.

But do as I say, not as I do.

I would varnish it all, but Ill save that for when I get a more permanent top layer. Right now I use latex and simply recoat every now and then. I have thought about galvanized, but I have a second bench that may get something more appropriate for welding/metal work.

Im switching to gray tops from white bench tops as well.

 

[metal1313]

i thought about painting my bench, but decided it would be easier to clean if i just used a sheet of sheet metal. i think my 32''x72'' peice of sheet metal was around 30bucks at my local metal supply house. i wipe it down with mineral spirits when im done working so it stays clean, but not too shiny so it doesnt reflect light into my eyes.

next bench i build i'll do the same, and for work that i dont want on the metal...thats why we have cardboard and newspaper.

 

[TAMPAGT07]

I never painted a bench top. I've painted the steel legs with spray paint. I've always had either butcher block or steel.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

i thought about painting my bench, but decided it would be easier to clean if i just used a sheet of sheet metal. i think my 32''x72'' peice of sheet metal was around 30bucks at my local metal supply house. i wipe it down with mineral spirits when im done working so it stays clean, but not too shiny so it doesnt reflect light into my eyes.

next bench i build i'll do the same, and for work that i dont want on the metal...thats why we have cardboard and newspaper.

Different strokes....if I had this I'd love it...then I'd dent it up and be annoyed by the dents. If painted, I'd chip it. Plain wood I stain with oil or grease - which I've done.

Having said all that, I am planning on sanding and using Minwax on my "bench ala Olsen" and then I'll probably lay a loose piece of hardboard on it for protection.

 

[NUTTSGT]

On one side of the garage, where I dod the mechanical work, they are bare, perserved by the oil of the month.

While the other side, where it's wood working or house hold repairs, one bench is painted with a black latex, soaked right into the plywood. The work table was painted checker board with spray paint, then 2 coats of varnish.

 

[PhantomEB]

16 gauge steel bent up at the back for a backsplash.

 

[Rich]

I painted mine with gloss white latex trim paint. The last 2 work benches I had were dark stained wood and I really like the white better. And like Jack said, when gets too beat up I'll just roll it out again and it'll be as good as new.

 

[kwright]

My benches are all wood, and I used battleship grey POR-15 to paint them... it has a slight glossy finish, is quite chemical resistant, and is tough as nails.

 

[jamesemery728]

I have always used Porch and Floor latex enamel. All of the major brands carry this type of paint. It is very durable and like others have said you can touch it up and repaint when it gets worn.

 

[ZRX61]

Some kind of varnish..

 

[bomber]

I've also used deck and floor paint -- whatever was cheapest at the time -- it's held up really well on everything but the work surface, but I really can't complaing about that -- I'd likely chip if you dropped a cylinder on me, too.

 

[dustym]

I used gloss verathane. If it gets too beat up just give a sand job then reaply. Its still looks ok to me.

 

[Coach James]

My main work bench is plain wood stained with dirt and oil from whatever I am working on. What is the purpose in painting them?

Coach

 

[cravingspeed]

I used a semi-gloss valspar paint and bent some ac duct metal for the top with a backsplash over 3/4inch ply-wood.

 

[jeepnut24]

I found a Glidden oil based porch and floor paint. Its tintable and im going with a light gray. Its a gloss paint so it should clean easily enough. One gallon is cheap and should recover the work surfaces several times.

 

[IH82BL8]

I stained mine fairly dark to hide oil stains. Paint won't hold up to what I put my workbench through.

 

[benzimm86]

i was thinking about using polyurethane right over the wood surface

 

[Aberdale]

i was thinking about using polyurethane right over the wood surface

That's what I did. I made a butcher block top out of 2x4s stacked on edge. It made a 3 1/4" thick work surface. When I finished it, I just put on 4-5 coats of polyurethane. It still gets nicked up from heavy items with sharp edges, but overall it still looks pretty good after 4 years. I figure when it gets bad enough, I can just sand or plane it down and refinish it.

Dale

 

[mooman]

I have always used Porch and Floor latex enamel. All of the major brands carry this type of paint. It is very durable and like others have said you can touch it up and repaint when it gets worn.

x2 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[mmhouse]

I found a Glidden oil based porch and floor paint. Its tintable and im going with a light gray. Its a gloss paint so it should clean easily enough. One gallon is cheap and should recover the work surfaces several times.

I also used a porch and floor enamel (latex for me) and touch it up every few years.

 

[Jeff]

Kilz primer then 3 coats of semi-gloss enamel.

 

[zmotorsports]

It's kind of hard to tell from this picture but I used an automotive paint that has been used in trunks for a long time called Zolatone. I used the machinery gray color which has multicolored specs throughout for the main bench and doors then covered the top with stainless steel with a back splash bent up about 4" and rolled over the front an inch. Mike.

 

[blaze_125]

wood stain is what I used.

 

[RattytatTom]

Bought "Dutch Boy" Porch and Floor Polyurethane oil-based enamel that was in the "clearance" section of a local Meijers store. Was marked down from $23.99/gal to $4.70/gal.
I bought all they had and have, so far, painted 2 16ft cargo containers and most of my shop equiptment with it. It takes at least a week to harden up, but when it's done, it's like epoxy. My better half jokes about everything being painted "BattleShip Gray".
I love it!

 

[Torque1st]

I use plain wood tops for most of my benches. Some are covered with hardboard. I use plain old boiled linseed oil on the wood if it needs protecting.

I am a strong believer in white paint in the shop for visibility.

I do have two work tables that are covered in some sort of mostly white plastic that used to be display tables in a retail store.

 

[TurboCup87]

mine is au naturale

 

[E.rodz]

after reading this post I think the pour 15 is the most durable and you can get it in differrent colors, a clear polyurathane is also a good choice. myself because i just have do do things different went wit a silver base let dry for a day went over it with a black rustoleum then wiped it right away black stayed in the grain let dry and after went over it with 4 coats of marine urathene.