Work bench top ideas

[hdridinas1]

I will be starting to build a new work bench for my garage soon. I plan on having some drawers and cabinet doors on the bottom, but am looking for ideas for the top.

I have though of doing metal of some kind, but I would probably go nuts trying to keep it polished. I am looking for something that will look good, but most of all be durable and easy to maintain. My other idea was to make a concrete top and coat it with the floor epoxy kits you can get a Lowe's, i think Rustoleum makes um? If I could find some tile cheap enough that looks right, I may do that as I have tiled our kitchen counter and counter I built in the laundry room. Not sure if I could find the right tile though, color and look wise.

Here are the counters I did the tile on though.

 

[chadman]

IMO there is only one choice for a workbench top, STEEL! I have a 7 gage hot rolled steel top that I had bent up at a local fab shop. Absolutely love it.

 

[Kevin54]

I built a 4x8 bench and put laminate flooring on top. Easy to wipe off and if it gets damaged, not too expensive that I can't replace it.

 

[hdridinas1]

Now that is a good idea, and I just so happen to have a box and a half left over from doing the laundry room floor.

 

[Outlawmws]

You want something more durable and able to take a beating than tile (brittle) If you want to go with a kitchen type counter top, a pre-made Formica top works well as you have a built in back splash so you are unlikely to have anything roll off the back behind the bench. (even if you don't go this way, if it is against a wall plan for a back splash). it also had a small bump on the front edge, and this helps keep things form rolling off the front. I have one on top of a solid top made from 2X4's on edge glued and screwed together as a base. (my big vise is mounted on this bench, and takes a LOT of heavy work and force...)

The laminate flooring also works well. and can be drilled for a vise etc.

Masonite on top of a strong substrate also works well, and can be edged with aluminum trim, or be edged with hardwood so the Masonite is recessed flush.

If you are concerned about rust on a steel top, you can go for SS.

IKEA make a good butcher block top in a couple of sizes and many guys use these on top of large roller tool boxes for a work surface.

 

[nosetackle]

Take a look at 89vert's bench tops . Great idea using stainless sheets .

 

[JimVonBaden]

I used floor tile (VCT). It is easy to install, fairly durable, looks good, and easy to replace when damaged.

I have used formica countertop in the past, and it worked great!

Jim

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

...I have though of doing metal of some kind, but I would probably go nuts trying to keep it polished.

Polished? Really?

...I am looking for something that will look good

Ok, the answer of course is what do you intend to DO on this counter top? If you're going to be pounding metal and welding then polishing is out of the question....or at least over-the-top if you're really going to use it.

If appearence is primary for you then I think the laminate flooring, Formica or vct is the answer. If you ACTUALLY intend to use is for heavy duty stuff then I'd think simple seel plate and forget about polishing. If you want it "shiny" then stainless sheet or maybe something painted.

 

[akdiesel]

I was on the same fence for a while. I stopped at our local Grainger and they had tops in stock. I picked up two 30" x 72" 12gauge for $300 total. I needed 127" so I will simply cut them to my size.
A 30" x 132" butcher block is about $800 and shipping is about half.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I meerely used two layers of 3/4" plywood and painted them with some black Rustoleum paint. If it gets scratched, break out the paint and touch it up. I used some aluminum diamond plate as a back splash.

 

[GRX]

IMO there is only one choice for a workbench top, STEEL! I have a 7 gage hot rolled steel top that I had bent up at a local fab shop. Absolutely love it.

^^ - this

 

[hdridinas1]

I have thinking about a concrete top and painting it with the epoxy kits that Lowe's has. Opinions?

 

[Steevo]

I like STEEL tops.

My workbench has 'em:

And my lathe bench has one:

Sturdy, solid, almost indestructible, and you don't "polish" them.

 

[ChristopherLutz]

Steevo - are those solid metal tops or "caps" with edges folded down?

Did you make or buy?

 

[hdridinas1]

Those are awesome. I am on a small budget for the garage, so I don't think steel is gonna work? Unless I am wrong the steel tops are pretty expensive right? If not, I might consider doing part of it steel and the rest something else. The work bench will be used to for small random projects, automotive stuff every so often. I am not rebuilding rears or anything on it.

 

[larry4406]

I used a commercial metal fire rated door as the bench top.

 

[chief ben]

I found to old tables and cut them down to fit in where I wanted them,
and they look nice,

 

[Bulldog13]

Nice Organization....I used left over Pergo from another project...tough and looks good too...

 

[Steevo]

Steevo - are those solid metal tops or "caps" with edges folded down?

Did you make or buy?

They are 12ga. "caps", with folded down edges, folded up backsplashes on the workbench, etc.

Not cheap, but not outrageous, either. I think the 24" x 72" on the lathe bench was $125 to have folded up.

 

[Mmfh]

Steevo that is a great looking setup you have there. I have the same lathe as you have, but I was making a valve guide driver and had it cutting toward the chuck and the phone rang. While on the phone the cutter crashed into the chuck and broke something on the drive. I screwed up on that one.

I have steel on my benches too, last forever and will put up with any kind of abuse.

 

[DekeT]

I have thinking about a concrete top and painting it with the epoxy kits that Lowe's has. Opinions?

It will break due to no tensile strength. First hammer blow or torque applied from a mounted vise and goodbye top.

 

[DekeT]

I used a commercial metal fire rated door as the bench top.

I use this idea too. They are suprisingly strong, cheap, and large.

 

[hdridinas1]

It will break due to no tensile strength. First hammer blow or torque applied from a mounted vise and goodbye top.

Well, there goes that idea.

I might have to look into the metal doors.

Nice setup Chief, looks good.

 

[jake00]

i used 3/4" hardwood flooring

 

[chadman]

Here is a picture of mine just after I installed it. 12ft. long. It was about $300 in 7 gage with the front lip and backsplash. Would be a little cheaper in 10 or 12 gage.

Here is a closer view.

 

[Chief Geek]

I'm trying to plan my new work bench and will probably follow much of what my last one had, only on a larger scale. The downside is for it to happen within the low budget constraints I currently have, I will have to be a bit of an scavenger. I used a piece of lexan on top of two pieces of 3/4" piece of plywood. I took advantage of the layers by cutting a couple circular holes in the top piece of plywood to allow some neodymium magnets to be placed under the plexglass. This allowed for a great screw holder without having to find a magnet bowl. I also left a foot of the wood exposed at the end. Innitially not by design, but quickly realized this aloud for me to do some heavier hammering that I knew would jack up the lexan. The advantage of the plexiglass is that it was a very very durable surface that aloud me to see the tiny little screws while keeping them inplace on the magnets and wouldn't absorb solvents and fuels, all things common when working on nitro and electric RCs. I just have to score another free sheet of lexan or **** it up and buy it.

I do like the wood flooring idea, it should be rather easy to find enough scrap from friends to do a work bench.

 

[akdiesel]

Nice bench.
Did you have the yard bend it for you?

 

[chadman]

Nice bench.
Did you have the yard bend it for you?

Thanks, I had it bent at a fab shop.

 

[Robidob]

My father has old bowling alley wood for the tops of his and they are awesome

 

[RTcat]

I like STEEL tops.

My workbench has 'em:

Sturdy, solid, almost indestructible, and you don't "polish" them.

Here is a picture of mine just after I installed it. 12ft. long. It was about $300 in 7 gage with the front lip and backsplash. Would be a little cheaper in 10 or 12 gage.

Here is a closer view.

What kind of bench tops are you guys building to put these steel "covers" over?

How are these steel covers fastened to the the top underneath it.

Very nice looking benches!

 

[chadman]

Mine has a 2x4 frame with joists every 16" O.C. then two layers of 3/4" O.S.B. topped with the steel plate. I just used PL 400 adhesive to glue it to the O.S.B. plus the vice is bolted through it. Not to mention the top itself is quite heavy. Not going anywhere.

 

[PCO6]

What kind of bench tops are you guys building to put these steel "covers" over?

How are these steel covers fastened to the the top underneath it.

Very nice looking benches!

I have a 1/8" steel top on my bench which is similar to the ones you quoted. It is 10' long x 30" deep and I have 2x lumber front to back under the top. The only place it is attached is where the vice is bolted down. I have never had any problems with the top shifting.

 

[Steevo]

Steevo that is a great looking setup you have there. I have the same lathe as you have, but I was making a valve guide driver and had it cutting toward the chuck and the phone rang. While on the phone the cutter crashed into the chuck and broke something on the drive. I screwed up on that one.

I have steel on my benches too, last forever and will put up with any kind of abuse.

#1 rule of lathe operation is no loose clothing.
#2 is never turn away from an auto-feed operation.

Bummer dude.

 

[prowler777]

#1 rule of lathe operation is no loose clothing.
#2 is never turn away from an auto-feed operation.

Bummer dude.

#3 ALWAYS take the chuck key out of head before turning on.

i stuck one into a steel roof panel at a place i worked at while cutting skirts on pistons.good thing my arm wasn't over it at the time.lesson learned.

 

[Steevo]

What kind of bench tops are you guys building to put these steel "covers" over?

How are these steel covers fastened to the the top underneath it.

Very nice looking benches!

Mine are steel framed, with 1-3/4" thick wood tops under the steel.

You can see the build thread here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120386&highlight=HF+toolboxes+workbench

And here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126086&highlight=HF+toolboxes+workbench

My vise is bolted through the steel, wood and the frame, tying it all together.

 

[hdridinas1]

So. I have given some thought to this with the suggestions you guys have put up. Right now the steel tops are out of my price range, so I think i am gonna build a top with wood. I made a top for our island where I used 2x4's stained and polyed with 3 coats of poly. I think I am gonna go with this again. I will post up some pics of the island top later so you guys can see what I am talking about.

 

[bobbycoke]

What do you do to "finish" the steel tops? What stops rusting?

 

[KPSquared]

You don't finish them, you just hit' em with a wire cup on a grinder once in a while.

 

[hdridinas1]

So here is the frame and lower shelf that I built for the work bench.

The top that is on there is just resting on top. its the old top that was on my old cabinets.

Here is the top to the island that I built, this is what I think I am gonna do for the top of the work bench.

 

[PCO6]

What do you do to "finish" the steel tops? What stops rusting?

I've never had a rust problem with mine (post #32). I bought it used in the late 70's and I don't know how old it was when I got it. I have spilled many types of fluids on it and it's been covered in sawdust and drywall dust many times. I just try to keep it reasonably clean and it really hasn't been a problem.