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Work bench top ideas

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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17,176
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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
For a wood shop there is no better top than a 1/4" piece of hardboard. You lay it over a 3/4" sheet of ply well supported and with edge trim to hold it in place. When it's done you pick it up and lay down another. Wood slides on this stuff like skies on snow.

Not so good for oily, messy work.
 
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Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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The Badlands
So here is the frame and lower shelf that I built for the work bench.

shedanimal007.jpg

Strong suggestion:

If you plan on a vise in the bench corner, take the long deck screws out one by one and replace with 1/4" lag bolts that will come close to 2" deep minimum into the studs, and then find the rest of the studs and do the same with at least 1 lag per stud (2 at the corner/near the vise). Add metal corner brackets for the rest of the top frame.

I've ripped a bench/top off the wall 2X with working the vise and heavy bending or prying. You simply can't have too much anchor to the wall to keep it from happening...
 

chadman

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Feb 5, 2008
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Wakeman, OH
What do you do to "finish" the steel tops? What stops rusting?

My top is hot rolled steel that has been "pickled and oiled". This is a treatment they often do to hot rolled steel to prevent rusting. The main thing that will keep it from rusting is to control the humidity in the shop. Mine has been installed for over a year now with no issues. If you leave a beer bottle on it and it sweats it will leave a mark. In that case you just sprits it with WD-40 and hit it with a Scotchbright pad and it's as good as new. Very little maintainance. I am always doing dirty projects on mine so it gets cleaned regularly which helps. I clean it with WD-40 and a rag and it stays like new.
 

gmt830

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Oct 22, 2011
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The Edge of Houston
I used structural grade diamond plate aluminum I got at the scrap yard. Looking back I would probably try to find some used stainless steel prep tables out of a commercial kitchen.
 

ARbuilder223

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May 12, 2011
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You can go with epoxy...the 2 part clear works well, you can see reflections / shine..so far very durable..
 

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ARbuilder223

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May 12, 2011
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2 pcs of 3/4" plywood with a fir 2x4 border. Click on my garage build in my signature..explains more.
 

472scout

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back 40
I see steel benches on craigslist all the time. Wood isn't a good long term investment if you're going to use it hard.
 

ARbuilder223

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We use ours for light building..our shop is more for firearm builds..small car tinkering and hanging out so 472scout is correct..depends on what you will be using them for..
 
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hdridinas1

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Mar 30, 2012
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That looks awesome ARBuilder.......I might have to do that later. I am still thinking of using the same kits on my floor. My floor pretty unlevel and is different slabs cause one bay in the garage is an addition, so I am trying to figure out what would be a good floor treatment. I have figured out that I would need 3 kits to do the floor, but I would have some left over, would be more then enough for the counters.
 
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hdridinas1

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Mar 30, 2012
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Well, I decided to use the left over flooring that I had from doing the laundry room and ended up with this.......

garage001.jpg


garage002.jpg


garage003.jpg


The 2X4's in are just sitting there, but that is what I am gonna use for a "backsplash". I am gonna shape them a little bit, just not sure how yet.

And I will be trimming out the edges with some more 2X4's. I am gonna have the trim a little higher then the surface and will cut them out so it will overlap the probably 1/8".
 

MadeInUSA

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Dec 21, 2010
Messages
41
I am in the process of building a workbench and am planning on some sort of sheet metal for the bench top. The sheet metal will sit on top of 3/4" plywood. Not sure what thickness to go with though. Cost is definitely a factor. I don't plan to do any welding on it but I also dont want it to dent too easily. Would like it to stay smooth for easy cleanup.

Its going to be roughly 6ft x 3ft. Would 1/4" plate be overkill? and about how much am I looking at pricewise for that? Have not started pricing yet so just would like a rough idea.

Also, any ideas for the corners to make them safer? All the corners will be square but I imagine the corners of plate steel will be pretty sharp.
 

GRX

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Dec 4, 2006
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2,032
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MD
Here is a picture of mine just after I installed it. 12ft. long. It was about $300 in 7 gage with the front lip and backsplash. Would be a little cheaper in 10 or 12 gage.
http://i799.photobucket.com/albums/yy279/chadlmullins/2011-02-12_05-39-16_481.jpg[/IMG]

Here is a closer view.
http://i799.photobucket.com/albums/yy279/chadlmullins/2011-05-22_20-53-17_795.jpg[/IMG]
Nice bench chadman. That an Olds 455?
 
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srt4geezer

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Mar 26, 2012
Messages
39
Some great ideas here.

I guess I'm the only guy in the universe that hates things on the floor. I built my benches so the front legs angle back to the wall. I have a "curb" around the base board of my garage & the legs rest on that & the back of the bench is lagged into the studs. Bench doesn't even touch the floor.
Then I topped it with an 1 1/4 plywood with a pressboard top.
I weigh 400lbs & I can stand on it without any movement. Feels solid as concrete.
It is not fluid proof though. My only regret. My next counter will have stainless on it I think.
 

clarkebd

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Mar 21, 2012
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183
I guess it's just me ... but I can't fathom using anything other than steel plate of some kind as a bench top.

Sure, wood looks nice, epoxy, etc, etc. but none of that will stand up well to use over time, spilled liquids/chemicals, pounding, any kind of metal work.

It seems like anything other than metal is more for look versus functionality/maintenance long term?
 

youngnstudly

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Apr 20, 2007
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79
Location
The "Whine" country, CA
I used to make sheet metal countertops in the HVAC shop I worked at, so I'm a little biased towards sheet metal. I normally like to use 16-18 ga galvanized (and weld the corners), but the one pictured below is 20 ga since the benches factory top is 1/8" (rusty) steel...AND the 20 ga was a FREE piece of drop from work.:thumbup:

Easy to keep clean with comet, solvent, a razor blade, toothbrush,....pretty much anything! :lol: MUCH cheaper than the 14 and 16 ga sheets of stainless we used at work for fabricating culinary school countertops!!!:eek:

Andy
 

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Outlawmws

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I thought about 2X4 on edge, with a plywood top, or just floating polyurethane onto the 2X4s. how did yours turn out ?

Not sure who you aimed this at, but since I posted a 2X4 on edge top, it works well. I've been using one for near 30 + years (I've made 4 of these at least)

Hardest part these days is getting 2X4's that are reasonably straight. a little bow in the 4" side facing each other will solve itself, but if it bows to the bench top or bottom leave it at the lumberyard...

I Glue and screw mine together, and if you plan to anchor it to the wall, do yourself a favor and use a 2X6 or 8 on the last one so you have a lip to anchor to the wall.


Unless you have access to a planer, or top it with ply, I would not go for a PolyU top. You should "skin" it with something. The best something IMO if an old fashioned Formica kitchen counter-top with a back splash, this keeps things from falling down behind it, and also has a slight "drip edge" bubble on the front edge which can help with things rolling off.

Metal can also be bent to this shape.

Ply works, but it's dead flat, (which might be important...)

One of the best features of the bench is it's mass, witch makes for a bench that can absorb a beating...
 

mhoss44

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May 23, 2014
Messages
92
Location
Morrison, Oklahoma
@Outlawmws, yes I was referring to your comment. I am already through a lot of my current bench build. I decided to go with a sandwich top. A sheet of half inch plywood ripped lengthwise, and s heel of wafer board ripped. The plywood on the outside, wafer sheets inside. Held together with liquid nails and screws. Will end up at almost 2 inches thick. I already had those materials, that was a lot of the reason. Here's a couple of pics of the frame. I still have some bracing to do before the top. Also a pic of my current "benches". Yuk yuk.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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rabies

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Jan 14, 2015
Messages
81
here is my idea. out of a solid oak door. all was free except 2x4s
3/4 plywood on bottom. metal drawer. doubles as outfeed table. and a lip thing to hold pencil, bits etc. wish i had built a built in moxy clamp or something
 
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