Work Bench

[BetterDays]

I will be building new benches this summer, however I need one to be rather long and open on the bottom. Instead of using 2x4, I am thinking that a 2x6 will be better on the front.

Basic design described below.
about 36" tall, 72" wide.
One small shelf under the top (probably about 10" wide)
The bottom will be open so that I can store my spare 8.8 rear end under the bench and not lose any more floor space.

My main concern is the length of the bench without a center support. I thought about adding a center support later, easily removed with a few screws. Other than that, I am lost.

Off of this bench, will be another bench that will extend into a corner unit. The corner unit will have my mini fridge, coffee pot, stereo, microwave, and TV. I spend a lot of time in the garage and try to make it as comfortable as possible.

I do have propane heat in the winter (Mr Heater top of the tank style). Keeps it a nice 65-70* in the garage when it is 10-15* outside!

Any advice/assistance/etc. is appreciated.

Kevin

 

[danski0224]

I built one that is almost 10 feet long and almost 5 feet deep with only four legs, no center support. There are three shelves in addition to the top.

The legs are 6 x 6 treated. The top is supported by a 2 x 6 notched into the legs. There is another 2 x 6 glued and screwed behind the one notched into the legs on all 4 sides. I set a 2 x 8 on its side after ripping an inch off, giving me a 3 inch overhang, a good place to clamp things. This 2 x 8 covers most of the top of the 6 x 6 legs, set even with the back of the second 2 x 6, which made it easier to attach a couple of 2 x 6's perpendicular to the long dimension for top support.

On top of the 2 x 8 I placed some 5/8 plywood for a base for the top. The top is constructed of 3/4 inch unfinished oak flooring, which I finished with plain old floor wax. The oak flooring runs parallel to the short dimension. I sanded the whole top with a plain old random orbital sander. I borrowed a router and bought a 2" flush trimming bit to flush cut the hardwood to the 2 x 8. Impossible to cut the wood to the exact length for a finised edge.

The 3 shelves are supported with 2 x 4's notched into the legs with another glued and screwed behind the face. The shelves are each made of a single 5' x 10' sheet of 22ga galvanized metal bent and cut to fit. There are single 2 x 4 supports in place on about 2' centers for support to the metal.

The whole thing is very strong, there is almost no deflection in the top, even when I stand in the middle. It is also quite heavy, probably around 1100 pounds of lumber and shelf metal. It took me a long time to build it. All of my notching was done with a worm drive saw, cleanup was done with a 1" chisel and my Fein MultiMaster. I have yet to install the 3 x 3 angle iron around the perimeter, recessed into the hardwood.

I would definitely use a 2 x 6 for yours, and consider doubling it, like a door header. You will not need a center support unless you point load many hundreds of pounds in the middle. Notching it into the legs is much stronger than scewing it to the face of the legs. You only need to notch one board into the legs and back it up with another, which is what I did.

A friend of mine suggested the unfinished hardwood for a top, and I have been very happy with it. It adds quite a bit of structural integrity and creates a nice durable work surface. The simple wax finish is easy to maintain and touch up when it gets scratched.

I didn't make a drawing, just a rough sketch to work out the details. It was done mostly on the fly. Roughly $800 in materials, but my buddy had enough hardwood scrap that prevented me from buying another bundle (I used two).

 

[BetterDays]

This work bench will be used for small tools, nothing too major (small vise, bench grinder, chargers for the drills, etc.).

I am planning to secure it to the walls, as well as build an upper portion for pegboard and a top shelf (with a light under the shelf for direct lighting on the bench itself.

The other issue is the limited availability of tools. I have the homeowner basics (circ saw, jigsaw, sanders), but nothing major. I can get a chop saw and small table saw, as well as access to a large table saw (friend's father does woodworking, 32x34 toy barn for his hobby.. looks like Norm Villa's shop).

Basically, a 2x6 would work then for what I am using it for. The other bench will be built to handle more weight, as it will be next to the storage cabinets in the garage. Hopefully, third time is a charm (as the first bench sucked, the second set was better (old oak desk, reworked to make it better, as well as adding a top to old metal storage racks cut at 36").

Thanks for the advice!!

Kevin

 

[BetterDays]

I took some quick measurements while I was out there.
72" Wide, 46" Tall, 24" deep.
Shelf will be around 32" from the ground.

Using 2x6's, I don't think I will have an issue with a 4 post bench.

What is the best way to connect to benches together (L Shaped)? Exposed 2X6 (or 4x4) for both pieces to mount onto?

 

[BetterDays]

I was in the garage last night, working on the engine bay, when I had an epiphany and started working on the "plan" for the garage (where to put things, spacing, etc.), and I began to wonder.

What are the pro's/con's of turning the "shelf support" (not top) sideways (2" face, 4" under the shelf) instead of the pic (4"face, 2" under the shelf)?

Another question (sorry, I am a true Newbie when it comes to building benches) relates to a corner bench. I can cut the top from a single pc of board and attach the legs under it so that I am trying to attach three separate benches together. Is it OK to build it this way or should I build three separate benches and attach the three together? The corner unit will be used to house my Fridge, Microwave/Stereo Receiver/TV.

Thank you once again!!!

Kevin

 

[danski0224]

The strength will come from the long dimension of the lumber. Elevate the 2 x 4 on one end about 12 inches and stand on it near the middle with the lumber "sideways" and "straight up" and you will understand.

How you construct the top is a matter of preference. Materials wise, it may be cheaper or faster to make the cuts if there are three little pieces instead of one big piece. Maybe you don't want a seam or two in the top.

It may be easier to move three smaller pieces instead of one big one.

 

[BetterDays]

The strength will come from the long dimension of the lumber. Elevate the 2 x 4 on one end about 12 inches and stand on it near the middle with the lumber "sideways" and "straight up" and you will understand.

How you construct the top is a matter of preference. Materials wise, it may be cheaper or faster to make the cuts if there are three little pieces instead of one big piece. Maybe you don't want a seam or two in the top.

It may be easier to move three smaller pieces instead of one big one.

After I posted this, I started thinking about my question regarding which way to place the 2x4. Definitely a strength issue. Sometimes my brain quits working, I swear...

Still trying to figure out the corner unit, as the corner itself will be an issue due to the items being stored. I am guessing I just need to make it wide enough for the fridge (using three pcs), and then attach the top where it needs to be (mounting screws from underneath for the side posts or creative use of brackets)

Thanks for the help all...

Although a newbie and a small task, I will take pics (before, during, and after) in case I do something that someone else likes..

Kevin

 

[Wile1Coyote]

For the corner unit remember you can hang the bench on the wall by placing some supports flat on the wall itself, Being in a corner these will take a huge amount of weight. So you may be able to hang your counter between the wall and the other two benchs.

Just a thought.