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Workbench Build

dmeadow

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
952
Location
Houston, Texas
I just moved into a new house and this is the third garage I've built workbenches for. After learning from the first couple of times, lots of surfing garagejournal, and much thought, this was the result.

The basic design was cribbed from another GJ thread. It is all built from 2x4's, 3/4" plywood, with a 3/4" Melamine top.

I needed it sturdy enough to put a small engine and/or transmission on it. After using 24" deep workbenches in the past, I decided I wanted it a little deeper at 30". This means a little less efficient use of materials (couldn't split a 4'x8' of plywood and use both sides fully) but I was willing to make that sacrifice. I was able to use the narrow side of the 3/4" plywood split for the shelf, anyway, so it worked out OK. The bench is 10' long. It is all glued and screwed together, mostly using 2 1/4" exterior grade screws with slightly shorter ones for the top, shelf, and trim.

I had used hardboard for tops in the past. I found that they looked good for a very short period of time, but absorbed everything-- paint, oil-- and weren't all that durable. They were also not particularly easy to replace.

This time I went with a "floating" melamine top-- not secured to the bench. I drilled some 2" holes in the supporting plywood deck so I could push the melamine top up from the bottom to flip it once, then replace it once both sides were messed up. I used some 1x4 around the edge to "fence" the melamine with a little taller piece in the back to act as some protection for the wall.

The tool boxes are cheap Clarke middle boxes that I bought for about $30 apiece on sale at Northern Tool (a GJ Hot Deals thread!). For that price it they made a good alternative to building or buying drawers.

I used an exterior stain to finish it. It didn't take much time/money to paint it and it gives a much more finished look to the garage, as well as matching the gray Ulti-Mate cabinets (I intend to review those in another thread).

Now to get the MaxJax installed and get the real work started!
 

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DangerousDan55

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
180
Location
Hockley, TeXas
Oh, you went a done it now!
You opened the door for people to critisize you on your shop.
Some will say "Its just a garage" & you have to build it with your money, their way, not yours.

It looks great! enjoy your shop. Because some day, you will be to old & not be able to enjoy you love working in YOUR shop!

The spice of life- variety!
 

SlowAl

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Joined
Feb 1, 2013
Messages
110
Great job. It's too bad there are no cheap 24" or 30" deep chests to take advantage of the depth of the workbench.
 
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D

dmeadow

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
952
Location
Houston, Texas
Thanks for all the kind words.

For the record, having never worked with melamine much before, I wrung my hands a lot on trying to cut it. I was afraid that it would chip badly at the edges and look like ****. I even bought a special laminate blade for my skilsaw and a long fence to use to cut it lengthwise (don't have a table saw). While at HD waiting to have the plywood cut a guy in front of me had a sheet of melamine ripped. The chipping was really minimal and not worth worrying about for a workbench top, especially since it was just one edge. I returned the special blade and fence and just had the sheet ripped there. I was very pleased with the outcome.
 

oldldh

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
3,700
Location
Fairhope, AL
I've been giving a lot of these out lately---

YA DUN GUD, BUBBA!!!

I'm work bench building next week, and I've already decided to go 28" wide, leaving 20" for the shelf...I'm going with 12 gauge steel for the top over 2x3/4 plywood...

I really like you "drawers"...somehow, that doesn't sound right...
 
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JakeKohl

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Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
1,365
Location
Greenville, SC
regarding the hardboard or melamine tops - wax them with good 'ol car wax (carnuba based...the better is always better). It keeps things from sticking. A woodshop trick is to wax hardboard tops to keep wood glue from sticking. It works to prevent stickage and ease cleaning for all types of paints, oils, and such.
 

John in OH

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Joined
Jun 2, 2007
Messages
2,444
Location
SE Ohio & Eastern Virginia
Very nice looking bench! The Clarke drawer sets makes for a nice, clean look, but I assume they are only 12" deep? As SlowAl mentioned, it's too bad no one makes a cheap, deeper drawer set. Craftsman makes a 16" deep intermediate set, but you won't get them for $30 each!!
 

turbowoodworker

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
3,519
Location
Apex NC
Nice bench. My only concern is that the white top will get dirty quick.

I had (in my old shop) a melamine outfeed table for my table saw. I did most of my assembly there and you would be surprised at how clean it stayed. Wood glue (aliphatics anyway) won't stick to it. Let it dry, pop it off. Now Gorilla glue, urethanes, are a different story. Took the melamine off in a chunk when I tried to remove a dried blob.
But overall, it is a pretty good work surface for a woodshop. Don't know about transmission flui, etc.
 
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dmeadow

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
952
Location
Houston, Texas
I see a few british cars on the back ?

I noticed that too. Nice work bench too.

Yep! Look closely and you can see parts of:

2007 MINI
1962 MGA
1951 MGTD
And just the wire wheel of a 1961 Jaguar E-Type.:D

And, yes, I do plan to put a vise on it, down on the RH end. I'm debating whether I want to put it on a hitch receiver or the table itself. If I put it on a hitch receiver it would share it with a bench grinder.
 
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