Workbench finish

[Joevano]

Still looking for a good finish to put on my solid maple bench top. Sine I won't be heating it full time, I don't think polyurethane will hold up well.

Wondering how tung oil and paste wax holds up to motorcycle chemicals.

Ant other good recommendations?

 

[DCarr]

Granted it doesnt get as cold here in TN. as MN. ... But I used Polyurethane on 6 benches and all look the same as they did 3 years ago and I have only heated the shop up a few times.

 

[ed_h]

Tung oil and wax can make a beautiful finish, but it's not very durable.

Why is cold temp a problem for Urethane, other than the curing period?

Use a urethane spar varnish.

 

[Thumper68]

http://www.menards.com/main/interior-wood-care/specialty-wood-finishes/envirotex-lite-pour-on-high-gloss-finish-128-ounces/p-1462526-c-7964.htm

 

[ed_h]

http://www.menards.com/main/interior-wood-care/specialty-wood-finishes/envirotex-lite-pour-on-high-gloss-finish-128-ounces/p-1462526-c-7964.htm

This plastic coating ends up very thick. I'm sure it's tough, but on a work bench, I'd worry about it chipping.

 

[djjsr]

Over the years I've never been able to have a benchtop that both looks good and is scratch/gouge proof when working on mechanical stuff. For me the best solution would be to just use a removable cover made from a piece of Masonite.

OR, just do nothing. Did you ever see a very old hardwood workbench? They have a really great workbench look. I guess it's the "patina" of it's life history. If it looks like a kitchen countertop, it's not a workbench.

 

[ekraft84]

I'm thinking the same thing. I have some butcher block tops that already have a protective coating. I'm curious on any suggestions to best strip/prep this before staining or applying something.

Thanks.

 

[NealDePape]

I would treat like a cutting board. Just use mineral oil and bees wax and retreat frequently. That won't seal it perfectly, but it will keep the wood from drying out. And it is cheap, easy and quick to do.

 

[pauls_workshop]

I would treat like a cutting board. Just use mineral oil and bees wax and retreat frequently. That won't seal it perfectly, but it will keep the wood from drying out. And it is cheap, easy and quick to do.

For this method, I'd go for the Tung Oil finish instead. Makes the wood beautiful and much more robust than just mineral/vegetable oil like for a cutting board. Maybe once a year go over again, that is about it. I've used Tung Oil to waterproof exterior wood and it does great. Polyurethane will crack when used outdoors, even when marketed as being an exterior poly. Tung oil will never crack. It is great stuff and my favorite finish to use when I really care. - Paul

 

[Craptain]

I just have a sacrificial piece of plywood over my bench for the very same reason. Oils and such. I have had that bench top for about 5 years now and the plywood is still serviceable, probably for another 5. It has had oils and greases, paint and thinners on it. I beat on it and screw into it occasionally. And best of all I don't worry about the base under it. I am fortunate to have more bench space for wood projects and there are never ANY liquids anywhere near those benches.

 

[Mooniac]

I recently finished a few reclaimed bowling alley lane workbenches. I had them professionally sanded (with a big drum sander) to get down to good wood, and then finished with a witch's brew of boiled linseed oil with beeswax melted in at 5:1 or 6:1, then cut 1:1 with mineral spirits. It seemed to have worked very well, but of course there hasn't been a lot of use on them yet.

 

[tmwebb3]

I use 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 mineral spirits, and 1/3 spar urethane with good results on my benches topped with paste wax. I put it on thick, let seep into the wood, then wipe off with rags, repeating until the wood doesn't absorb any more. You could substitue poly for the spar, but I wanted something softer that would not crack or chip if struck.