Workbench idea help!

[shaner3721]

Hey All,

I'm struggling to decide what to do with my workbench. It is just a basic 2x4 plywood bench that the previous owner of the house installed. Works great, but lacks any character or sharpness. Here are a few pictures and the full build thread for my garage can be found here.

Basically, I'm looking for ways to add a new top. I've thought of maybe doing a concrete counter top concept, but I'm not sure if that would be too heavy? Could I install 4x4 posts to compensate for the extra weight? Another idea was steel sheeting over the top and edges. Is that even a thing?

Let's get your ideas!

Thanks,
Shane

 

[matt_i]

Concrete = no in my book. Will crack if ever hammering and banging and abrasive to almost anything. Porous if not well-sealed.

I'd go with 16 or 18ga stainless steel personally.

I made one bench topped with hard maple tongue and groove 3/4" sold flooring. One of my favorites but only for clean woodworking projects.

 

[j p smith]

There are a lot of good work bench projects on GJ. Start with a look at the "Lets See Your DIY Work Benches" under Fabrication & Techniques. There are other work bench threads to look at also. Be sure you check out the legendary build by steevo.



Steevo's bench title, My Workbench Build Thread

 

[Dragfluid]

There are a lot of good work bench projects on GJ. Start with a look at the "Lets See Your DIY Work Benches" under Fabrication & Techniques. There are other work bench threads to look at also. Be sure you check out the legendary build by steevo.



Steevo's bench title, My Workbench Build Thread

Looked at all the titles of his threads. Couldn't find it. Please light the way?

 

[Modern Jess]

Looked at all the titles of his threads. Couldn't find it. Please light the way?

Here you go: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126086

 

[j p smith]

Here you go: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126086

Thanks Jess

 

[Perrorojo]

you could have a piece of sheetmetal bent to lay on top.

 

[ClintNZ]

When I wanted a more durable & welding-proof top for my wooden bench I got a piece of 1/4" steel for the top plus some 1/8" for the back from a local fabrication shop, welded them together & bolted them on. You might want to add a few more legs to that one before chucking a bit of 1/4" on top though.

As mentioned above, getting something bent up is an easy job for a fab shop with the right equipment. Especially if you can keep it in standard dimensions, either 8' long or 4' long to minimise cuts & get the most out of a std 4x8 sheet.

Cheers
Clint

 

[exmaxima1]

There are no redeeming aspects of your work bench area. It's just a hodge podge of non-matching cabinets, and the cheapest workbench the owner could muster. I'd tear it all out, and start from scratch. Most cost effective would be to buy a used tool chest (or two), remove the wheels, and install a bench top over it. As far as bench tops go, I like the look and feel of butcher block tops. Menards has them on sale thru Labor Day.

 

[shaner3721]

There are no redeeming aspects of your work bench area. It's just a hodge podge of non-matching cabinets, and the cheapest workbench the owner could muster. I'd tear it all out, and start from scratch. Most cost effective would be to buy a used tool chest (or two), remove the wheels, and install a bench top over it. As far as bench tops go, I like the look and feel of butcher block tops. Menards has them on sale thru Labor Day.

Fortunately, I've already done away with those cabinets and I have a tool chest with a top piece so it can't be used as a work bench. Appreciate the idea, but I'll try and salvage the work bench because I like the dimensions and feel that getting some sturdier legs and a nice top will clean it up well enough for now.

You're killing me with the menards reference, though! Used to live in the midwest and now I don't have one anywhere close enough to make the trip worth it.

 

[shannonw]

if we’re talking dressing it up for cheap. 1x4 or 1x6 pine trim boards the appearance grade kind , have them proud 3/4 inch over the framing.

For top..depends on what you do,inlay a melamine panel. i do a lot of wood working and other stuff, grease, glue, epoxy, whatever just scrape right off. Worked on my lower units on my outboards last weekend, grease whatever wipes right off, rebuilt drill press on it,5 minute clean up. Seal the edges before inlaying them with 50% watered down wood glue.

It’s a bit nicer if you dado the top edge and put the sheet there but just boxing in for the top will be fine too.

What i did for the trim boards was 1 coat of light grey, 1 coat of dark grey, then lightly sanded the dark grey here and there with a foam sanding pad so it looked sorta artsy (light grey showing through in areas) distressed then poly’d it. That way when i bang or scraped or chipped it you didn’t really notice it. For banging on stuff i just had a stainless steel sheet in an area i screwed down i got from home depot kitchen area or something somewhere.

For the legs trim them out with trim boards too (box them in) and paint them. In that setup it helps to have a board go back to the wall from the back of the legs and attach that there, that steadied it up. Or you can use a small l bracket behind the dressed up legs and attach to the concrete and leg.

Tough to beat a 2x4 bench,you can dress it up with trim boards. Good thing about them is i’m always redoing my garage layout so i changed it umpteen times (used screws)...no longer have it ripped it out on a whim and have a big table with storage in the center now. But since it’s relatively cheap you’re not married to it.

 

[shannonw]

forgot to add, with the trim boards you’ll want to round over the outside top and bottom edge with a round over bit (trim router and 1/4 bit be fine). You can use lower grade but then you’d have to fill, sand,etc to get them to look nice, with the appearance grade you’d just paint em done. Helps to trim route after they’re all up but you may need to hand sand round off an inch or 2 by the wall because the bit won’t get there bug no biggie easily done.

 

[ct01r]

I've used formica for some of my work benches. It won't take any abuse (hammering, etc.), but it's great for painting items on it, gluing up projects, etc. It's flat, cleans up easily, and easy to install. I often see whole counter tops on craigslist for a nominal price, or even free. Curt

 

[RWorth]

Are you looking for a metal working bench, or a wood working bench? If it's just for woodworking I'd just put a good piece of 3/4 CDX over that particle board. And leave a 2-3" overhang, good for clamping.

If it's for mechanics, there is no substitute for steel.

 

[jimgood]

I've been kicking around the idea of using Pergo flooring for a bench top. I have the flooring in my house and two or three extra boxes of the stuff. It's damn tough. I've had it for at least 12 years and I've never damaged it, other than one time I left a leaking ice chest sitting on the floor over night. Bubbled up one area.

 

[Dragfluid]

Here you go: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126086

Oh, that one.
OK, thanks.

 

[shaner3721]

Thanks for all the ideas!

Right now, I'm leaning towards some unfinished oak hardwood floors, but we'll see. I might have to take Jim's idea and check to see how much extra pergo I have from our floors!

 

[bczygan]

First examine the structire.

Make sure the underside of the top has enough cross-members.

Consider strongly adding additional legs. Space them so cabinets will fit underneath.



Check how well it is fastened to the wall.

Then, as described above, add a trim board around the edge and clad the top in a hardboard or other sacrificial finished material.

Bill