Workbench leg joint help

[TheClaw]

I'm building a workbench around 2 Husky 46" boxes. I need to have a cross member just inside the legs to support the boxes. I had planned on using Simpson tie brackets. However the bracket is between the legs and the extra cross member.

I'm looking for ideas to build this joint, out of wood!

I know... Get a cheap welder practice and build one out of iron.

 

[PCustoms]

Get rid of the crappy brackets and 2x4.

4x4 legs and 2x6 horizontal members. Half lap joints and glue.

Or get a structural engineer.

 

[TheClaw]

......

Or get a structural engineer.

Ha!

Thought of that except with the two 46" boxes that put it over 8' long complicating how to build the top.

I thought for sure you'd try and sell me a welder!

 

[PCustoms]

I thought for sure you'd try and sell me a welder!

For a metal box, absolutely.

But that ship seems to have sailed.

Wood benches should have wooded drawers

 

[TheClaw]

I wouldn't quite say that ship has sailed. I'm getting a little frustrated honestly. I've built plenty of workbenches and garage storage shelves/carts/boxes over my time. This has really got me scratching my head on how to do it right.

I just might have to weld something. How hard can it be! It's just a bunch of right angles!

 

[NUTTSGT]

You can't drill pilot hole through the inner 2x4, drill slightly larger hole through the metal bracket and run a screw through both into the exterior 2x4 ?

 

[gleman]

I wouldn't quite say that ship has sailed. I'm getting a little frustrated honestly. I've built plenty of workbenches and garage storage shelves/carts/boxes over my time. This has really got me scratching my head on how to do it right.

I just might have to weld something. How hard can it be! It's just a bunch of right angles!

Can you extend the length of of the top? It'll give you some clearance on the corners.

Or maybe just fasten the crossmember after the Simpson.

Or pre-drill extra holes in the straping and use some construction screws. It's not a deck so it doesn't need to be perfect.

 

[matt_i]

After removing the metal brackets, I would recommend the GRK-RSS screw found at HD and Lowe, despite wood screws into end grain being generally bad, these are the exception and it will be frighteningly strong that way. There is a ~6" long screw which will easily penetrate the 4x4 and give you several inches on the other side.

 

[Wolley]

Make the entire end out of one or two layers of plywood, similar to a kitchen cabinet.

 

[Lynden]

Bolt and barrel nut plus a shallow tenon ....OR.... 1/2" diameter dowels and glue.

 

[CraigStu]

I 'think' your plan is to remove the wheels from the boxes and support them inside this framework right? If so why not rethink that? Leave the wheels on the boxes, bolt them together and lay your benchtop on top of them. You could also put 1-2" walls under the edges of the top to capture the boxes and skip bolting them together.

 

[DGersic]

I'm building a workbench around 2 Husky 46" boxes. I need to have a cross member just inside the legs to support the boxes. I had planned on using Simpson tie brackets. However the bracket is between the legs and the extra cross member.

I'm looking for ideas to build this joint, out of wood!

I know... Get a cheap welder practice and build one out of iron.

I wouldn’t use those brackets. Assuming you’re going to load up these boxes with a significant amount of stuff, that’s a lot of shear force on the brackets at the ends.




I’d use construction screws. I might also shoot some wood glue in there, depending on how much stuff I intended to store in the boxes.

From the right side, screw to the inner board as well as the vertical 4x4.

From the front, screw to the inner boaed and the 4x4.

Along the length of the inner, screw it to the outer. Or switch to a 4x4 and notch it for your vertical at the corner.

Cosnider adding more ladder rung boards under your drawers to tie the front and back together.

 

[zanyad]

Hey @TheClaw, I see you have a few threads about your workbench but nothing about the completed bench. I'm planning to build a similar one over two 44" HF workbenches. Can you share final construction details, please?

 

[Firebrick43]

I have made 4 work benches with the legs made from laminated 2x4 that are mortise and tenon joints. Super strong and stable.

Following link is for a woodworking type bench but you can just use the base design

https://picnicpark.org/keith/woodworking/workbench/BobAndDavesGoodFastAndCheapBench-ne.pdf

The mortise can actually be cut on the table saw for half of them before glue the halves together

 

[nadogail]

Bolts and Nuts can be retgihtned as necessary.

 

[TheClaw]

Hey @TheClaw, I see you have a few threads about your workbench but nothing about the completed bench. I'm planning to build a similar one over two 44" HF workbenches. Can you share final construction details, please?

Here are some pictures. The bench on the left ultimately got built too using a Uline table.

I used super long flat head deck construction screws in the front. the cross members are placed such that I just have to slide the box in under the bench and they stop them at the right depth.

 

[zanyad]

Thanks!

 

[theoldwizard1]

There are hundreds of videos on YouTube on how to build a workbench, from inexpensive to incredibly expensive.

I like the one Simple Sturdy Workbench Build because it is very sturdy and does not require any special brackets. (The secret is wood dowels !)

Most people will use 2x4 for the major structural parts. The problem is, most of what comes out of lumber yards is not sufficiently dried. Buy your material and store it inside raised off the floor for good air flow. Place heavy object on top to prevent warping. If you have it stacked more than 1 layer high, rotate the stack after a month. Wait at least 1 month for additional drying. 2-3 months would be better.

If you plan on making the top out of 2x4, after drying, cut about 1/8" off of each long edge so that it is square. Lay out the pieces so the growth rings alternate. Doweling is good, but not required (Quick and dirty alternative to doweling. Get some ardox nails 2-1/2" -3" long. Pound a few about half way in one long edge of the boards to be glued up. Glue and clamp.) Spend some time with a sander and you will have an solid top that will last for years.

For deluxe finish, apply several coats of boiled linseed oil. This will take time (potentially weeks) but it will give you a stain resistant finish.

 

[TheClaw]

For deluxe finish, apply several coats of boiled linseed oil. This will take time (potentially weeks) but it will give you a stain resistant finish.

I put about 4 or 5 coats of 50/50 BLO/Mineral spirits on there.

 

[Codyboy]

Lapped , notched, or mortised joints for the legs and cross members. This way has a lot more bearing support for the top.
For the legs I used two 2x4's laminated. Easy to leave one shorter to accept the crossmember to rest on.

**** joints even with brackets **** and will become rickety.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I put about 4 or 5 coats of 50/50 BLO/Mineral spirits on there.

The last coat should be straight BLO. Yes, it will take FOREVER to dry, but it will give the maximum protection !

 

[theoldwizard1]

I used super long flat head deck construction screws in the front. the cross members are placed such that I just have to slide the box in under the bench and they stop them at the right depth.

Anything type of screw, screwed into 2x4 end grain will fail if the table/bench is subject to sideways loads.

1/2" hardwood dowels are your only hope.