Workbench Surface Question

[TipsyMcStagger]

I'm getting ready to build a bench and I want it to be 10' long. I've called the local lumber yards and no one stocks plywood in 4' x 10'. I'm going to have to use an 8' length with a 2' section.

I plan to use two layers of plywood for the surface. Other than staggering the joints, is there anything I can do, or should bear in mind, to ensure that I have a minimally intrusive seam and good strength?

TIA.

Tipsy

 

[Vinci]

Would it be possible to support the seam with a 2x4 (or whatever you're building with)? Like that, you could forego the two layers, unless you just plain need the extra thickness for the top.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

Would it be possible to support the seam with a 2x4 (or whatever you're building with)? Like that, you could forego the two layers, unless you just plain need the extra thickness for the top.

I'd planned to use two layers regardless.

But yes, I plan to ensure there is a 2" x 4" under the seam on each end.

Tipsy

 

[Falcon67]

Just stagger the joints and check the ends for square is about it. I would use a good wood glue at the top seam and then sand the top.

 

[FrankieD]

Did you ask if they can special order oversize ply? Around here it's a special order type of thing.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

Did you ask if they can special order oversize ply? Around here it's a special order type of thing.

Yeah, they can order it but I'm ready to get it built. I travel for a living and placing an order now would mean waiting even longer. I want to get started on it today.

I've been planning to build a bench for sometime but only now settled on a 10' length. Oh well.

Tipsy

 

[Ft.ValloniaStreaker]

I'm not sure the look your going for, but how about using 2X12X10? I bought red oak 3X12X16's at a country sawmill that was 5 years old for a song. A friend helped me finish them down to 2 1/2" thick (i'm no woodworker) glued them together and I couldn't be happier!

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

I'm not sure the look your going for, but how about using 2X12X10? I bought red oak 3X12X16's at a country sawmill that was 5 years old for a song. A friend helped me finish them down to 2 1/2" thick (i'm no woodworker) glued them together and I couldn't be happier!

I've thought about that. I'm making this 30" deep, so I guess I could use two 2"x12" and one 2"x6".

I'm just a bit concerned about the flatness and the tightness of the joints, since I don't have an industrial jointer and planer at my disposal.

I think I'll go buy the 2"x4"'s to get started on the frame and give the 2"x12" idea some more thought.

Tipsy

 

[SlowPoke-Canada]

I'm not sure the look your going for, but how about using 2X12X10? I bought red oak 3X12X16's at a country sawmill that was 5 years old for a song. A friend helped me finish them down to 2 1/2" thick (i'm no woodworker) glued them together and I couldn't be happier!

X2
Some simple joinery and it will look seemless. You'll get a more durable top and a nicer finish with just a little extra effort.

 

[dandan111]

Like falcon says glue on that seam should work real nice. I would stagger the seam and try to keep the seam more towards the center.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

X2
Some simple joinery and it will look seemless. You'll get a more durable top and a nicer finish with just a little extra effort.

What do you consider simple joinery? I don't have a jointer or planer (or a biscuit tool, for that matter). I'm wondering if I can find a woodworking shop nearby and ask them to run the three boards through their equipment to true them up?

Like falcon says glue on that seam should work real nice. I would stagger the seam and try to keep the seam more towards the center.

I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, but if the seam is not 2' from the end, wouldn't that require having more than one seam?

Tipsy

 

[SlowPoke-Canada]

I've thought about that. I'm making this 30" deep, so I guess I could use two 2"x12" and one 2"x6".

I'm just a bit concerned about the flatness and the tightness of the joints, since I don't have an industrial jointer and planer at me disposal.

I think I'll go buy the 2"x4"'s to get started on the frame and give the 2"x12" idea some more thought.

Tipsy

Find a local cabinet shop and have them look after that for you.
Another option might be...
Plywood base and 1"x8" boards laminated to it. They have fairly clean edges vs. 2x's

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

Think I need more coffee. Just realized two 2"x12" plus one 2"x6" is 30" nominally but 28" actually.

I'd have to use a 2"x8" in the center to get close to 30" (29 3/4").

Tipsy

 

[SlowPoke-Canada]

I'l expand on that idea...

Lay out 1x8x10 boards face down on the ground.
Use a Kreg jig to join them together
Glue the underside
Lay 2 30x60 sheets of 3/4 ply on top and screw with 1 1/4"
Flip it over and tada.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

I'l expand on that idea...

Lay out 1x8x10 boards face down on the ground.
Use a Kreg jig to join them together
Glue the underside
Lay 2 30x60 sheets of 3/4 ply on top and screw with 1 1/4"
Flip it over and tada.

Makes more sense now. Thanks.

If I go the two-layers-of-plywood route, I'd probably not glue the top layer to facilitate replacement, if need be.

If I go with your suggestion or the suggestion to use framing lumber, the point is somewhat moot.

I've only been thinking about this for months and now I'm back to scratch!
Tipsy

 

[stonewellmark]

Stagger the seams..NOT at the center, run a a full 8' and a 4', use a 45deg joint as its stronger, (not 45 across bench as you look down at it, a 45 as you look at the end cut of plywood). By using a full 8' and 4' the joint lands in the center of the 8' piece when you over lap the next layer

Mark

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

Stagger the seams..NOT at the center, run a a full 8' and a 4', use a 45deg joint as its stronger, (not 45 across bench as you look down at it, a 45 as you look at the end cut of plywood). By using a full 8' and 4' the joint lands in the center of the 8' piece when you over lap the next layer

Mark

I get what you're saying about the 45 degree (basically, a mitered joint) but I'm missing the math on 8' and 4'. That's 12'.

I'm building a 10' bench. Like I said, I'm probably missing something obvious.

Tipsy

 

[SlowPoke-Canada]

Makes more sense now. Thanks.

If I go the two-layers-of-plywood route, I'd probably not glue the top layer to facilitate replacement, if need be.

If I go with your suggestion or the suggestion to use framing lumber, the point is somewhat moot.

I've only been thinking about this for months and now I'm back to scratch!
Tipsy

If you go with a hardwood, you'll likely never need to replace the top, just refinish it.

 

[Outlawmws]

I've been using a Std Formica kitchen counter top for my work bench top surface for 25 +years and this is not the first or only one I've built. I laid mine over vertical 2X4's glued and screwed together in a poor man's Glue lam but I' built it way overkill. ant thing decent under it will work (Or nothing but framing if your duty is light)

I like them as the back splash keeps me from losing things over the back edge, and the slight bump on the front edge helps keep things from rolling off the front.

They can be had in almost any length, and are not expensive.

 

[stonewellmark]

Sorry my bad...helps if I pay attention, for a 10' I would use 8' and 2', since your going with 30" deep you already need more than 1 sheet of 4x8. The strength comes from the two 8' pieces being held together over a 6' overlap.

Mark

 

[Nostraquedeo]

You could also use the 2x12s and 6s and then glue formica or some other solid surface. Or even use the laminate flooring that locks together.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

I went to look at lumber at the local HD and Lowe's. The 2"x12"s and 2"x8"s are really rough. Even if running through a planer, they'd be filled with knots, etc.

HD however, has some very nice 3/4" plywood that's listed as "cabinet grade." It's essentially clear. It's a bit pricey at $32 (I'll need three sheets) but probably about the same as dimensional lumber would have been, by the time I paid someone to true-it. The hardwood is insanely expensive, at least for a workbench.

Now I just need decide if I want a 2" overhang or a 3" overhang. Thoughts?

Tipsy

 

[NCtim]

I'd go with the 2 X 12 idea, biscuit join them and take them to a community college or high school with a wood shop and slip someone $30 for the trouble of running them through the planer. Make sure the glue is dry. Or, if you can't run the boards through a joiner to match surfaces before biscuit joining, take the whole thing to them and let them have a class project. It may come back with a premium finish to boot. Those kids are pretty amazing and they love a project to test their new skills.

Cheers,
Tim

 

[melliott28]

I used 2x12x10 SYP. Used a cheap HF electric planer to flatten the edges, glued it together, and applied polyurethane. Easy and cheap.

 

[crazytrain]

I used 1/2 inch osb (what I had on hand) for my work bench top it's 12 feet long I just quadrupled it up. My bench is 2 foot wide, I used 1/2 a 4x8 sheet I cut into 2x4 foot wide sheets and 1 sheet cut in half lenght wise (2x8 foot sheets). I built a 2x4 frame with cross braces and glued and screwed the first layer to the frame work with a good wood glue. Then over lapped the seams and glued and screwed all layers together. I added a 1/4 masonite sheet on top to make it smooth and nailed it on around the edges and seam. If the masonite gets damaged or to beat up I can pull it off and flip it over or replace it.

1/4 masonite 6 feet long with seam in center of bench.
4 foot + 8 foot
glue & screw
8 foot + 4 foot
glue & screw
2x4 frame work cross braces ever 12 inches.

I stand on my bench alot to reach my loft. top is 1 1/4 inches thick but does not sag due to 2x4 frame work.

total materials:
2x4's, one and a half sheets of 1/2" osb and one sheet of 1/4" masonite.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

I used 2x12x10 SYP. Used a cheap HF electric planer to flatten the edges, glued it together, and applied polyurethane. Easy and cheap.

Looks nice. You ran the planer along the edges (1.5" side) to true them, and then used the planer on the full surface after it was joined? No biscuits?

Tipsy

 

[melliott28]

Looks nice. You ran the planer along the edges (1.5" side) to true them, and then used the planer on the full surface after it was joined? No biscuits?

Tipsy

Yes, you are correct about the planer, and no I didn't use any biscuits, just glue. As long as you have a good glue joint, no other fasteners are needed. But, it wouldn't hurt to use biscuits or other fasteners.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

Yes, you are correct about the planer, and no I didn't use any biscuits, just glue. As long as you have a good glue joint, no other fasteners are needed. But, it wouldn't hurt to use biscuits or other fasteners.

Good info. Thanks. Got me thinking.

Tipsy

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

I'm all over the place. Melliott28's bench has got me thinking about giving it a try with a bunch of 2"x8"s glued together.

Question; if I have about 8" overhang on either end to facilitate under-mounting a HF bumper hitch (I had these welded-up yesterday), will the the 1.5" pine top (prior to any planing/truing) be strong enough to support an accessory (vice, grinder, etc)?

Tipsy

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

Question; if I have about 8" overhang on either end to facilitate under-mounting a HF bumper hitch (I had these welded-up yesterday), will the the 1.5" pine top (prior to any planing/truing) be strong enough to support an accessory (vice, grinder, etc)?

Tipsy

Guess I'm asking dumb questions I went ahead and bought three 2"x8"s and a 2"x10". I drove from wood shop to wood shop; each proprietor directing me to the next, trying to find someone with a jointer to sqaure these boards. No joy. So, I bought a HF planer for $44.

Still not sure if this will be strong enough to support a vice, grinder etc. with an 8" end-overhang. I might add a layer of plywood underneath after it's glued up.

Tipsy

 

[Outlawmws]

It really depends on how the recovers are attached to the bottom of the bench top, how heavy the vise is, and how hard you plan on using it.

If you concentrate the load on something like carriage bolt heads on top, I know I would be pulling those through the boards in short order.

I think you would be further ahead making a side wall REAL sturdy, and bolting through that side ways so the bolts are in shear for most loads.

For the grinder, I doubt it's an issue.

 

[87Hybrid]

I would glue the 2 layers together, We had an Epoxy wood glue back when I was in High School wood shop that was the same stuff used to glue plywood at the manufacture.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

I would glue the 2 layers together, We had an Epoxy wood glue back when I was in High School wood shop that was the same stuff used to glue plywood at the manufacture.

Yes, If double-up the layers, I will glue the two together.

Tipsy

 

[tylernt]

I would not mount the receivers to the plywood top. I would mount them to the structural 2xX members supporting the top. If that means adding some more 2xXs to the existing structure to extend it where you need it, so be it.