Workbench Top Ideas - Oily, drippy, sloppy, messy stuff...

[1-3-2-4]

I'm a little ashamed to admit that it's been over a year since I finished construction of my heated and cooled pole barn and I'm still working on a broke-*** wobbly manufactured workbench. In my defense, I've been busy finishing the shop, but the nonsense needs to stop! I've built a few workbenches in my day and I have a pretty good idea of what I want to do. But the top leaves me scratching my head...

I'm pretty sold on a solid wood structure that I'll bolt to the concrete slab. I want something that won't move when beat on, and something that damps vibrations. I have a couple metal tables that I use for other things, and they work well. But, hammering, cutting, grinding, etc. is too loud for my liking. I have a good idea what I'll do for the structure.

But the top? That's another story. I don't want wood of any kind on the exposed face. I do a lot of motorcycle suspension work, and tear apart small engines on occasion. I'm sick of tired of oils and fuels getting sucked into the wood. Especially gasoline - it makes my eyes tear for DAYS. And since I use the shop as my COVID office, I need to keep the smells at bay.

Stainless steel is my obvious choice. A marine edge would be nice. A seamless sink (non-plumbed) would be ideal, but I'm willing to use a food-grade standalone next to the table, if need be. However, I'm a little uncertain on how I'll adhere a sheet metal table to a wood substrate without drilling holes through the top - which I'd rather avoid so that oily, drippy, sloppy, messy oil and fuel doesn't work their way through to the wood.

So has anyone figured this out? I'm just getting started on the plans, but I'd like to finish before spring. All ideas are welcome - but remember - I want a wood top UNDER the stainless to keep noise and flex to a minimum.

 

[jkeyser14]

Get a stainless top bent to go over some wood. Bend 3 of the lips up, but bend the front lip down and into a channel shape with ends welded on to make a trough that catches any fluids that run off.

This is a similar idea, but with a slope to a rear drain. Perfect for rebuilding engines and transmissions:

https://store.schoolspecialty.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?minisite=10206&item=3280668

 

[1-3-2-4]

I was thinking of something similar regarding the three sided backsplash. Didn't consider the trough on the front end, though. I like it!

Still, thoughts on how to affix to the wood top? I'm trying not to overthink this, but I want it to be solidly mounted. Adhesive?

Maybe keep the back splash, but wrap the 'sidesplashes' around the top and secure from underneath? I'd lose the pseudo marine edge...but maybe it'd scratch my itch?

 

[Gummi Bear]

On the cheap, I use whiteboard for my bench top.

A 4’ x 8’ piece is about $11 at HD


1/8 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Eucalyptus White Hardboard

https://www.homedepot.com/p/204727075

My workbench is 2’ x 8’, so I get two bench tops out of a sheet

I put it down with spray adhesive, so it’s easy to rip off when it’s time.

I can write on it with dry erase, and cheap enough to view as a consumable.



I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau

 

[1-3-2-4]

I really like the whiteboard idea. I might borrow that idea for another light duty bench I need to make!

 

[Kaizen]

I’d use 2x6s ripped to remove round edge and glued and screwed together on edge. The weight alone will be great.
Thing I’d first try contact cement. Smear on both surfaces and stick it.
If it fails try something else. As long as you don’t puncture the top you can keep reattaching.
I like the trough but would like it in the back and slope the top slightly. Make the trough or whatever wide enough to put your hand in


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[MileHighRover]

Construction adhesive.

 

[nadogail]

My Hallowell top is 2” thick high density particle board generously coated with epoxy resin.

 

[rburke65]

How about just using a large drip tray on the bench?

 

[Jack84]

I have a stainless steel plate under my mini lathe, top of the bench is wood. Works great, easy to clean and no cutting oil that soaks into the wood.



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[jmarkwolf]

I've got two thicknesses of 3/4in oak plywood, glued and screwed together as my bench top, with a sheet of masonite on top of that, captured in 7/8in surround molding. When the masonite gets nasty I just pull it off and set a new sheet in. Instant new bench top!

Of course you have to clear off the bench top to do so!

 

[NoMoMojo]

I built a kitchen table with a red oak farmhouse style leg/apron set from TableLegs.com, use thick Baltic birch ply w/doubled thickness on the perimeter, and wrapped the top with heavier gauge Zinc from Roto Metals in Alameda. For securing the zinc to the ply, I used contact cement as suggested above - it ain't ever de-laminating. NOTE: the most important thing when using an adhesive to secure your metal "skin" to the wood substrate is to get FULL coverage - no voids. Much like laying tile - use the recommend notched applicator tool. Any void areas will be much more susceptible to denting, and also will produce an extremely annoying hollow sound when hit.

 

[firebirdparts]

I’ve always wanted a tear down table with a drain tank but I guess I’ll never do that.

 

[1-3-2-4]

I built a kitchen table with a red oak farmhouse style leg/apron set from TableLegs.com, use thick Baltic birch ply w/doubled thickness on the perimeter, and wrapped the top with heavier gauge Zinc from Roto Metals in Alameda. For securing the zinc to the ply, I used contact cement as suggested above - it ain't ever de-laminating. NOTE: the most important thing when using an adhesive to secure your metal "skin" to the wood substrate is to get FULL coverage - no voids. Much like laying tile - use the recommend notched applicator tool. Any void areas will be much more susceptible to denting, and also will produce an extremely annoying hollow sound when hit.

Thanks for chiming in. What brand contact cement? Did you do any surface prep to the zinc before adhering (sanding, etc.)?

Thanks for the good ideas, everyone. Keep them coming!

Regarding non-metal tops, though...not considering for this bench. I’ve used laminate countertops in the past and they did most things well....except handle heat. I won’t be hitting the surface with a direct flame, but I will put red hot parts on it. I have singe marks on my wood and laminate tops...

 

[alcorelli]

We use old commercial baking sheets. Contains small parts and spills.
I like the idea of the white board and masonite tops!
I'll be building a new bench in a couple of weeks and I will incorporate these ideas, thank you all for sharing.

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[tinmanwpk]

We've built stainless steel countertops at our custom metal fab shop approaching forty years now. We use double layer 3/4" thick plywood as a subbase. The top is glued on using Liquid Nails. Be sure to clamp the wood or weigh it down to the upside down top and give it ample time to cure out.

 

[ez-duzit]

How about just using a large drip tray on the bench?

This is the best idea so far. Just place a drip tray under a messy job, rather than screw up an otherwise useful benchtop.

 

[1-3-2-4]

This is the best idea so far. Just place a drip tray under a messy job, rather than screw up an otherwise useful benchtop.

Why would a seamless metal top “screw up an otherwise useful benchtop”?

We have a 1200 ft2 shop with three benches. This one is dedicated to messy work.

 

[ez-duzit]

Why would a seamless metal top “screw up an otherwise useful benchtop”?

We have a 1200 ft2 shop with three benches. This one is dedicated to messy work.

You said it yourself--"dedicated to messy work". If you top a bench with something like tempered Masonite it is useful for all kinds of work. Once you top it with stainless it becomes a hard, slippery surface unsuitable for many tasks, like cabinet making and assembling finely finished items.

 

[planecrazy]

When I was in college, I worked for a sheet metal shop that did mostly restaurant kitchens. We installed a lot of stainless steel counter tops. They were “glued” to the base with silicone caulk. Works well, lasts a long time.

 

[harley jim]

Look at some of the transmission rebuild shops, I have seen some nice benches with perimeter drains that drain to a container, like a 5 gallon gas can. Any decent fab shop could form stainless steel over a wooden frame. You may need to make the wooden buck or have it made as most metal men dont work in wood.

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[NoMoMojo]

Thanks for chiming in. What brand contact cement? Did you do any surface prep to the zinc before adhering (sanding, etc.)?
.

Plain ol' original Weldwood, and simply wiped down the backside of the zinc with acetone (because I had it handy - other degreasers would work fine I suspect).

 

[1-3-2-4]

You said it yourself--"dedicated to messy work". If you top a bench with something like tempered Masonite it is useful for all kinds of work. Once you top it with stainless it becomes a hard, slippery surface unsuitable for many tasks, like cabinet making and assembling finely finished items.

No woodworking in this shop. This is dedicated to metal and mechanic type work. Agreed that a wood bench is ideal for non messy work. IF (and a big IF) I want a soft top, I’ll make a temporary top out of wood or Masonite which I’ll clamp in place.

 

[mikegt4]

Look for a local restaurant kitchen fixture supply company. Most have a large selection of used equipment that they take out when installing upgrades.

 

[zkdiesel]

This is the best idea so far. Just place a drip tray under a messy job, rather than screw up an otherwise useful benchtop.

That doesn’t work will real world work.

Drain table gets rid of mess around your parts

 

[bczygan]

I'm a little ashamed to admit that it's been over a year since I finished construction of my heated and cooled pole barn and I'm still working on a broke-*** wobbly manufactured workbench. In my defense, I've been busy finishing the shop, but the nonsense needs to stop! I've built a few workbenches in my day and I have a pretty good idea of what I want to do. But the top leaves me scratching my head...

I'm pretty sold on a solid wood structure that I'll bolt to the concrete slab. I want something that won't move when beat on, and something that damps vibrations. I have a couple metal tables that I use for other things, and they work well. But, hammering, cutting, grinding, etc. is too loud for my liking. I have a good idea what I'll do for the structure.

But the top? That's another story. I don't want wood of any kind on the exposed face. I do a lot of motorcycle suspension work, and tear apart small engines on occasion. I'm sick of tired of oils and fuels getting sucked into the wood. Especially gasoline - it makes my eyes tear for DAYS. And since I use the shop as my COVID office, I need to keep the smells at bay.

Stainless steel is my obvious choice. A marine edge would be nice. A seamless sink (non-plumbed) would be ideal, but I'm willing to use a food-grade standalone next to the table, if need be. However, I'm a little uncertain on how I'll adhere a sheet metal table to a wood substrate without drilling holes through the top - which I'd rather avoid so that oily, drippy, sloppy, messy oil and fuel doesn't work their way through to the wood.

So has anyone figured this out? I'm just getting started on the plans, but I'd like to finish before spring. All ideas are welcome - but remember - I want a wood top UNDER the stainless to keep noise and flex to a minimum.

You need a tear down table:

https://www.google.com/search?q=transmission+rebuild+bench&client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=ALeKk02zG32gvjigSw4x-Hl8xcABAq-7fw:1613272096806&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjs6oXysujuAhVrEFkFHb43AbkQ_AUoAnoECAUQBA&biw=1600&bih=688

 

[Showkey]

Budget stainless table:


SAMs Member's Mark Work Table with Stainless Steel Top. $129.00

Sams Club and other have these:
This handy table features a stainless steel tabletop with curved safety edges and an adjustable steel shelf with zinc plating. The tabletop is 49 inches long and 24 inches wide, with the tabletop standing 39 inches above the ground. This stainless work table is NSF-certified.
Glue or screw a back or side edging if needed.

 

[66Caprice]

You can also search the local Craigslist and Facebook market place in the resturant equipment section for stainless tables and carts to use. Sometimes they are free other times not.

 

[qdvuu]

SAMs Member's Mark Work Table with Stainless Steel Top. $129.00

Glue or screw a back or side edging if needed.

Or maybe take the top off and flip it upside down (remove any fittings, of course).

 

[rayra]

Melamine-coated particle board. Has been very resistant to fluid spills. And I make notes on it while woodworking. Which clean up easily.

 

[Blind1]

I just replace sheets of sanded ply.

 

[mikegt4]

Here are 2 examples of restaurant tables from a CL ad.

 

[toyotadriver]

I made a top from a 14 inch LVL. Cut it in half and glued and clamped it together. Attached a piece of 3/4 inch plywood on top with glue. It's solid and very heavy. Make a top like this and then cover it with a sheet of stainless steel and it'll last forever.

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[rslaback]

Back when I was teaching I made a teardown table for my small engines students out of pallet racking. For the top cover I used just a sheet of galvanized sheet metal. Around the outside edge I used 1/8 x 1" Aluminum angle that came down on top of the galvanized and was fastened horizontally into the edge of the wood top that the sheet metal covered. There was a bead of RTV between the galvanized and the aluminum with no fasteners through it.

It worked great for us. It was cheap, easy to clean up, easily replaceable if needed and the lip around the edge was great for keeping springs, bolts and linkages from rolling off to the floor.

 

[kaymccampbell]

I've got a 1/4" mild steel surface, with a backsplash, etc, screwed to a heavy wood substrate. I rebuild engines, hydraulics, and transmissions on it. Nothing bothers it. It looks the same before and after. Using wood screws in countersunk holes makes for no leaks. It doesn't suffer from denting, scratching or oil canning like a thin stainless surface.

 

[simnil]

How about a "soft" metal top? A couple of millimeters thick aluminium plate bolted on top of a thick wood base. Will give you a combination of sound dampening and easy to clean. In a few years when/if the alu-sheet is too dinged up to use just change it.
I'm thinking alu diamond plate turned backside up could work.

 

[Jeff]

I use 3/4" plywood tops. If needed I can throw on 1/4" rubber mats cut in various sizes depending on the project.

 

[banjopete]

I did something like what I think you are after this past fall. I cut and made the base for the top from a combo of mdf and hardboard, 3/4" and 1/4" glued together and rounded over at the front edge. I found a local fab shop with a big brake and had them make two bends in a big sheet of 14g steel sheet. I don't remember the exact dimensions but it's about 2.5' deep by 11ish feet wide on the top with a few inches of back splash. I paid just a bit more than $200cad for all of it. I asked about stainless and they suggested not to bother, it adds significantly to the cost and for a used and occasionally oiled bench top the plain steel is perfectly adequate.

I've been thrilled with it, and the all in fab work price was less than I was being quoted at some shops for just the sheet metal itself, so call around. Buy once cry once.

 

[1-3-2-4]

I did something like what I think you are after this past fall. I cut and made the base for the top from a combo of mdf and hardboard, 3/4" and 1/4" glued together and rounded over at the front edge. I found a local fab shop with a big brake and had them make two bends in a big sheet of 14g steel sheet. I don't remember the exact dimensions but it's about 2.5' deep by 11ish feet wide on the top with a few inches of back splash. I paid just a bit more than $200cad for all of it. I asked about stainless and they suggested not to bother, it adds significantly to the cost and for a used and occasionally oiled bench top the plain steel is perfectly adequate.

I've been thrilled with it, and the all in fab work price was less than I was being quoted at some shops for just the sheet metal itself, so call around. Buy once cry once.

Looks great! I had the same idea with regards to the material. My shop is climate controlled so humidity isn’t a major issue. Any residual oil will address flash rust. The ss approach is mostly out of vanity. Just for the times customers see the shop.

How do you like the steel structure instead of wood? Did you hammer away on it yet?

 

[banjopete]

I love it and yeah had a chance to do some heavy hammering on it soon after as I had two stubborn ball joints to convince out of their sockets.

I'm just a hobby home guy so if I were in your shoes I'd have gone to bigger tube for the frame for load considerations. There won't ever be a v8 on this thing or any engine for that matter so this was more than enough for my needs.

The top on mine looks great, cleans up great, and just with a little oil or something on it, I don't expect ever to have any rust on it. This is a pretty common top, and I'm sure people can chime in on the rust worries. Mine is in a heated shop, but we are in a snow area so constantly have snow melt in the garage adding humidity and so far not even a hint of the red scourge on the top.