Workbench Top Material ?

[eabarnes66]

Hello,

I'm preparing to construct a workbench. It's going to span approximately 12' on one side and 6' on the other to form and "L". It will be supported by steel legs that are being purchased. I'm curious what material most people use for the top? I wanted something at least 2" thick ... My 1st thought was to use plywood. I've looked through some of the other workbench threads and am really impressed. I'm not looking for anything ornate, just highly functional. Does anyone have some suggestions? Thank you

 

[Steevo]

I used solid core commercial doors (1-3/4" thick), cut to fit, with 12 ga. steel over that.

 

[The Cobbler]

I have an old shuffleboard top that's going to be used for mine

 

[zkling]

I would NOT use plywood. On the bench I built ~15 years ago I used 3/4" MDF backed up by plywood (glued down). I've replaced it once after it became oil soaked.

If I had to do it again, and could fit in the budget, I'd go for a solid butcher block. If not that a homemade version with 2x4's jointed and then planed all at once. I'm not a fan of metal tops for a general work bench, if I drop a cutting or measuring tool, or even a part damage would almost be guaranteed.

 

[bwringer]

What sort of work is going to happen on this workbench?

 

[shaun oriold1]

For the garages I build I do either a maple bench top, or a stainless steel one. Both versions are 1.5" thick, which is more than enough.

The steel one looks amazing, but shows every single smudge. The wood one looks great, and can take a ton of abuse.

Steel one - not the best shot but you get the idea

Maple top. -

 

[eabarnes66]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. The main reason for building a bench is to organize things and support a couple of vises. There isn't any particular kind of work that I'm doing. I'm going to start pricing material. Again, I appreciate it. Thank you

 

[torqueman2002]

I've used 3/4" ply. with 12"x12" cheap floor tile to cover it, 1/4" L-bracket for edging with counter-sunk flush mounting screws.

I found with any oil, paint, stain, ... the top looked well, stained.

I read on-line, probably in this forum, about using conveyor belt to cover a bench.

I've done one 8' leg of my L-shaped bench, about 9 months ago. It is secured with drywall nails and finishing washers.

It has stood up to all the garage fluids, solvents, and paints without a problem.

It is cut with a sharp utility knife in 2 - 3 passes.

I remember paying about $35 for enough to do 4'x8' and 4'x10' legs of the bench.

 

[ilaurenzv]

The steel one looks amazing, but shows every single smudge.

 

[Burb]

I'm currently looking @ using reclaimed bowling alley lane. Some people think it's made of gold, but I found a place about an hour from me for $15/ ft. It comes in up to 21' lengths, 2 1/4" thick, and 42" wide.

 

[Madcap]

I've had great results with 3/4 MDF glued to a 2x4 frame underneath, Primed and painted it will take anything I have thrown at it.

 

[7echo]

I would do one run in stainless and the other with a replaceable top. We have used masonite, heavy grade linoleum, 1/4" plywood, and probably some other stuff for the replaceable tops. When they get funky just swap it out. If you have something oily do it on the steel top, wipes up easy. Other stuff goes on the sacrificial top. Ikea has an affordable butcher block style top that looks nice.

 

[Justind97]

We've had stainless steel workbenches for 20 years. A solid foundation is what's needed. We don't hammer on it, but build motorcycle engines and all kinds of miscellaneous work on it. Clean up is a breeze.
My current work bench is a 2x4 frame built 16" on center 2' deep by 10' long. I've used a 5/8 sheet of plywood for the past 8 months. My one gripe is the oil soaking in when building motors and having any and all metal shavings pretty much just sinking into the grain.
I have since gotten a stainless top for it and have attached it tight. I'm much more pleased with this than the plywood.

 

[Stuart in MN]

A lot of us have had success using a piece of tempered hardboard on top of plywood. The hardboard saves the plywood from wear, it's tough and cheap and it looks decent enough, and when it does wear out you can just get another piece.

 

[Frank Dukes]

i used doubled up 3/4" ply. you could use 3/4 mdf and then a 3/4 hardwood plywood even. plenty thick and strong. i wrapped the face of mine with 1x2" cedar to cover the ply

 

[LS6 Tommy]

The cheesy bench that was in my garage when I moved in had 9" floor tiles (wouldn't suprise me if they were asbestos) for a top. I replaced it with used school lab table tops, the black stuff that looks like stone. It's pretty much bullet proof. Cleans up like new with brake cleaner...

Tommy

 

[Toxicscrew]

The steel one looks amazing, but shows every single smudge. The wood one looks great, and can take a ton of abuse.

Have you seen/offered a jitterbug finish on your tops? Helps to hide scratches/wear from day one.

 

[skcj213]

I used doubled up 3/4" MDF when I built by bench about 7 years ago. It has held up fairly well. I will be purchasing a piece of tempered hardboard in the not too distant future to put on top as it is showing some wear. I'll put the hardboard on with countersunk screws and just replace as needed.

 

[GN4WHLN]

Two of my benches have 3/4 oak flooring tops on an OSB base. The flooring is called utility grade and is mixed red and white oak tongue and groove. It's attached to the OSB via wood glue and brad nailed from the bottom. The edges and back are red oak. It's stained and coated with a marine grade clear. Looks good and is fine for clean work. I also have a steel top bench for welding and dirty work and small stainless top table for some assembly work.

 

[Falcon67]

To save a little $, I used 7/16 OSB under 3/4 ply and 1/8" hard board for the top. Heavy cylinder heads, cranks, etc - no harm to the top so far.

 

[reyna14]

Three of my workbenches have Ikea oak counter tops. Price is very good and a little varnish and they hold up very well. Will be getting a fourth soon to replace the last remaining workbench.

 

[dmeadow]

I've got a 3/4" floating melamine top over 3/4" plywood. The melamine is chemical resistant (I typically clean it with lacquer thinner) and very durable. I recently got some epoxy paint on it that wouldn't come off, so I just flipped it over to use up the other side. Inexpensive to replace when it gets beat up.

The white melamine is good for visibility of parts on it and it reflects the light. The downside is that it also shows dirt.

I went to melamine after using hardboard as my sacrificial layer on a couple of workbenches. The hardboard is harder to keep flat (requires a lot of fastners, especially in a humid garage where it tends to buckle) and it tends to soak up fluids rather than resisting them.

 

[Oldtymeflyr]

I have found Formica to work well.

 

[nolimits76]

I’ve used a couple of different tops in the past.

While the top is important I tend to focus more on the frame that supports it. Anything I have built has a 2x4 substructure w/ studs on 16” centers. The overkill doesn’t cost much, and I never wish it was stronger.

Different tops I’ve used on that frame include ¾” plywood, ¾” MDF and about 1 ¾” thick commercial door w/ a really nice maple grain and finish to it. The plywood I tend to get an occasional splitter. The MDF I just hated – stains, spills, etc. Absolutely loved the door I converted to a top. Only concern w/ the door was the finish was so pretty I almost felt guilty using it as a workbench. But the door was free, so I persevered.

I like the looks of stainless, but my ears are very sensitive to high pitch noises so the possibility of having metal on metal making noise doesn’t work for me. Also, a general observation from older stainless appliances is lots of that stuff isn’t “smudge free” so unless you have a finish, etc on it then many times it looks worse w/ use.

I’d love to get my hands on some old bowling alley material. But everyone here is too proud of it and I can’t force myself to spend the money.

 

[Chasbec]

I used solid core commercial doors (1-3/4" thick), cut to fit, with 12 ga. steel over that.

X2. Very solid!

 

[kbs2244]

Many years ago I helped a guy that had a D C electrical shop.
He rebuilt starters, generators, alternators, etc.

Between XMAS and New Years he would shut down, send everybody home, and redo their work benches.
He had 5 or 6 work stations. Three foot deep and eight foot wide.

They where on home made bench’s, double 2x4 legs, with a 1 foot by 8 foot shelf underneath.
The top was two layers of ¾ inch plywood covered with cheap, mostly white, Melamine.
(check my spelling on this stuff.)
The big box stores carry it as a cheap alternative to tile of plastic in a shower stall.
It comes in 4x8 sheets, but since he only used 3 feet he had them save any with banged up corners and got the for 30 to 40 percent of the sale pricing.
A length of 1 ½ angle iron was lag screwed to the front edge.
The top was sacrificial. It was replaced every year.
But it stood up to daily, heavy, usage for that year before it was just too scratched up.

This has been my favorite construction since then
The white makes it easy to work on and the angle iron edge keeps things from rolling off as well as providing a light weight anvil.

For hobby use I have seen this kind of top lasting over 5 years.
It has stood up to all chemicals except acetone.

 

[shaun oriold1]

Have you seen/offered a jitterbug finish on your tops? Helps to hide scratches/wear from day one.

Not to change the subject too much, but I havent offered those to my customers. They would work well. I did think about using stuff like that as accent pieces though. The place I looked at was called Chemetal. Tons of funky metal options....

The ones who get the steel tops are the ones who usually also get a TV above it. Its not for working on, the most use they get is a remote, and a beer. If there is any possibility of use/ abuse I'll do a maple top.

 

[pattenp]

I use inexpensive SYP 2X10's and or 2X12's. It doesn't look that shiny and new anymore.

View media item 2162

 

[PCMusicGuy]

I have a phenolic resin top for my workbench. I use it for a variety of things including electronics. I wanted to be able to do some chemistry as well.

 

[NakeDiesel]

I have two benches, one is a 3' x 5' all steel on wheels welding bench with vice and drill press. The top on it is 3/8" plate steel.

The second bench that I just built is 20' long with a steel frame and the top is 2 layers of glued together 3/4" plywood A/C that is screwed in from underneath and then stained/sealed black.

Depending on how it holds up, I will probably end up putting a stainless steel top on it.

 

[vankaye]

I grabbed 22ft of butcher block from IKEA
(just before they discontinued this product)
for about $350. I think it's a big bang for the
buck if you can still find it...

 

[nesw20]

i used butcher block coated with minwax poly. so far it's held up just fine, but hasn't seen any really heavy abuse.

 

[67carl]

Two of my benches have 3/4 oak flooring tops on an OSB base. The flooring is called utility grade and is mixed red and white oak tongue and groove. It's attached to the OSB via wood glue and brad nailed from the bottom. The edges and back are red oak. It's stained and coated with a marine grade clear. Looks good and is fine for clean work. I also have a steel top bench for welding and dirty work and small stainless top table for some assembly work.

^This. Got mine mostly in, just need to finish... Bought a HF floor nailer cheap, unfinished oak from Lumber Liquidators.

 

[67carl]

How I handled the corner:

 

[gilbo]

Three of my workbenches have Ikea oak counter tops. Price is very good and a little varnish and they hold up very well. Will be getting a fourth soon to replace the last remaining workbench.

I grabbed 22ft of butcher block from IKEA
(just before they discontinued this product)
for about $350. I think it's a big bang for the
buck if you can still find it...

X2, X3


i did the same, IKEA counter tops come in like 6' and 8'

Length: 73 1/4 " $99
Depth: 25 5/8 "
Thickness: 1 1/2 "

Length: 96 7/8 " $129
Depth: 25 5/8 "
Thickness: 1 1/2 "

 

[k-os]

X2, X3


i did the same, IKEA counter tops come in like 6' and 8'

Length: 73 1/4 " $99
Depth: 25 5/8 "
Thickness: 1 1/2 "

Length: 96 7/8 " $129
Depth: 25 5/8 "
Thickness: 1 1/2 "

I just got done buying a 6' and 8' Beech top. The 6' was $129 and the 8' was $169. Both 25 5/8" deep.

 

[Spinaker01]

I've used the commercial door option like some others here and it holds up very well and also cheap -or free sometimes. My next option might be one of the metal galvanized fire doors, they look tough as $hit and are seriously heavy duty. Don't know how the galvanized finish would hold up but it would depend on the type of work being done. For me I would not look at using a wood top bench again.

 

[torqueman2002]

I'm currently looking @ using reclaimed bowling alley lane. Some people think it's made of gold, but I found a place about an hour from me for $15/ ft. It comes in up to 21' lengths, 2 1/4" thick, and 42" wide.

Care to let us know where we can get some?

 

[67carl]

Care to let us know where we can get some?

I found some on Craigslist. As someone else noted above, looking at the asking price it appeared the seller seemed to think it's coated in gold dust.

 

[mopar65]

plate steel would be my choice .