Workbench Top Material ?

[justme-]

Last bench I built was in my father's basement about 15-20 years ago, had to tear out the old one he built back in 1982 from dimensional fir due to water damage/rot from the foundation wall leaking behind it for quite a few years.
It was 4x4 post legs, 2x6 boards top and framed/skirted with 2x6 under the top. About 3 feet deep by 10-12 feet long and 6 feet long on the short side (L shaped).

We built a straight 15 foot long on another wall to replace it out of 2x4 framing with a shelf at half height, 2 feet deep. Top is 3/4" cabinet plywood (no voids in the laminates - they get filled, multiple laminate layers not just 3 like standard grades) because we had a couple sheets and tempered masonite (hardboard) for the top surface. Half white up half brown up. For small parts work white is great to contrast against. Cleans pretty easy with any multi surface cleaner (fantastic/409/windex/simple green/etc), and wears well. Still get moisture down in the basement especially in spring from the runoff and zero warping of any part of it. We used extra door trim/molding to edge the bench set to be flush with the hardboard to hold the hardboard at the edges and give a sacrificial edge to the bench. We also simply tacked the hardboard down to the plywood - hardened 3/8 carpet tacks. Pop off the molding edge and the hardboard should come up easily to replace if we ever actually have to.

Bench has a 6" vice bolted to a corner over a leg on one end and a coupe reloading presses bolted to the other corner end.

 

[ZRX61]

Mine is 2x10's, topped with 1/2in plywood, topped with masonite.

 

[zkling]

How I handled the corner:

Great job, that is going to look awesome when finished.

 

[Burb]

Care to let us know where we can get some?

There's someone (not sure if it's a biz or private party) that advertises in the Auto & RV mag. I haven't seen the ad for a few weeks, but I do have there # at home if you need it. If I remember they were out of Warsaw, Indiana, and wanted $15/ linear ft., and had in up to 21' lengths. I'm going to need a 17' section, and one of the main reason I'm going to go this route is I don't want any seams.

I also found a place near Toledo on craigslist that had it for $20/ft, but I don't know how much they have.(looked like 10' sections)

I've found some places that want like $3500 for a 10' section which is ridiculous.

 

[DonPowers]

My workbench top is plywood with a 1/4" hardboard surface. I built it in the mid 80" and has held up well. Also, the hardboard surface is easy and inexpensive to replace if needed, though I have never had the need to replace mine.

 

[Bookworm]

3/4" MDF, topped with screwed-down 1/2" MDF. I coat the 1/2" MDF with exterior (oil-based) polyurethane - 3 coats. 1rst coat I spread as thick as it will take, to soak in. Machine sand with 220. 2nd coat just paint it on, lightly hand sand with 320. 3rd coat just wet it.
Most spills, even petroleum-based spills, just wipe up. I weld elsewhere.

 

[DangerousDan55]

Metal top is nice but not for the electronic guys.great for gearheads & welders. It depends on what You are doing.
I got two benches right now. One made from 3/4 ply the fire dept wast throwing out. Its may really rough work with a 6" vise. Would like to put a metal top on it some day.
The the 2nd bench is 16' salvaged cabinets w/ ply under layment & 1/8" hardened Masonite as a sacrificial top. It has a 4" vice for little stuff. I do electrical, and just about anything.
I still want a heavy steel table for welding/cutting.

 

[lynnbilodeau]

Depends on the use.
For automotive, I prefer steel.

 

[kf4zht]

Somewhat depends on what you are doing. My reloading bench is just painted MDF and holds up fine. Its more important for it to be smooth and I can see anything dropped than spill resistant. Also for some reason dropped bullets don't seem to bounce as bad on MDF as plywood.

For a general purpose workbench I found a recipe on GJ a while back.
2 Layers plywood floor underlayment
1 Layer Masonite glued (const adhesive) to the top
5-7 coats Watco
Trim sides with 1x pine - Flush with top on front, 1/2-1" stickup on sides and back

The watco makes the Masonite pretty liquid resistant, but you can replace the masonite when it gets beat up. The floor ply is cheap but heavy and absorbs pretty well. The trim makes it look good, keeps it from separating and prevents small stuff from falling off the back and sides. Everything needed is pretty cheap.

 

[newbinga]

I feel so behind. I just free my benches in 2x4s and slap a particle board top on them. I have built a bunch of benches for my home as well as my shop like this. Mostly light duty, rc cars, atv repairs etc. Shop use was used daily for equipment but no real liquid.

In one Area I wanted a slick top so I covered the top with a clear coat. I think it was a poly clear coat from minwax. That held up very well in a daily production e environment

 

[600SL]

I used doubled up 3/4" MDF when I built by bench about 7 years ago. It has held up fairly well. I will be purchasing a piece of tempered hardboard in the not too distant future to put on top as it is showing some wear. I'll put the hardboard on with countersunk screws and just replace as needed.

 

[JMartel]

My current bench is 3" thick solid Oak, but it's a woodworking bench. My second bench that I will be making will be 3/4" melamine over top of some plywood for general purpose work and to mount a vise to.

 

[rharman]

Mine is butcher block and the vise end has a piece of heavy (don't know the gauge) sheet metal under it covering about 24".

 

[rick carpenter]

I have 1-3/4" industrial particle-wood door for my two 18" x 6' benches and laid mdf on top. I bathed the mdf three times on all six sides with an about equal mix of turpentine, BLO, and either varnish or teak oil. They sit flat and heavy, and are held down securely by only two screws. I can beat the snot out of it and drill/cut/screw into it knowing that it is easily replaceable (the first replacement will be just flipping it over). They've lasted several years.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Double layer of 3/4" pplywood painted black with Rustoleum. Easy to touch up if it gets scratched or scuffed or replace the top piece if it gets damaged.

 

[600SL]

A lot of us have had success using a piece of tempered hardboard on top of plywood. The hardboard saves the plywood from wear, it's tough and cheap and it looks decent enough, and when it does wear out you can just get another piece.

Absolutely

Build a plywood studded frame just like you would build a wall and throw a piece of hard board on top with 4 countersunk screws.

 

[kelpaso1]

Laminate flooring is surprisingly tough. It's cheap and can be easily changed if damaged. You do need a solid base under it though.

 

[ffast65]

Thinking I have to try the melamine


I went to melamine after using hardboard as my sacrificial layer on a couple of workbenches. The hardboard is harder to keep flat (requires a lot of fastners, especially in a humid garage where it tends to buckle) and it tends to soak up fluids rather than resisting them.[/QUOTE]

 

[23 CHIEF]

I'm using the laminate flooring on mine over 2x6 holding up really well

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[CJM8515]

I used 2 1/2 thick pieces of plywood then I finished it with polyurethane. it has held up to abuse like no other for me.

 

[utbigrod]

I've got 1" mdf on one and 1/2" mdf on another. The 1" mdf is for stuff that gets pounded on and the 1/2" is more of just a general worksurface. Both have held up great!

 

[Alexbn921]

I used a 12 foot butcher block form Cabinets direct. $300 out the door.

 

[stevep1954]

this guy has some bowling alley for sale in WI.
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/mat/4799636198.html


Bowling Lane Wood - $15 (Verona, WI)
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© craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap
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more ads by this user
Bowling Lane Wood - $15/ft.
40 pcs various lengths from 8-21ft long x 42".
Several pieces of nice maple from between the lanes - 18" x 16' @ $10/ft.
Bar top 3 pcs 27" x 20' w notch cut in middle for a column; other various pieces @ $20/ft.
No special lengths will be cut. You pick up and transport - bring your own crew of helpers.
Contact for appt to view and buy. Must be picked up by 1-5-15. Cash only.

 

[kgorman]

Woodcraft has various butcher block tops at not insane prices. Love mine.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/145686/30-x-60-laminated-maple-bench-top-88-lbs.aspx

 

[metalhead140]

Sacrificial hardboard tops allow cheaper large dimensioned timber underneath for a really solid bench. Mine use a range of big old planks and landscaping sleepers (where else can you buy a 2.4m / 8' length of 50mm x 200mm / 2" x 8" timber new for under $10?) to make a super solid top, then 10mm hardboard attached with countersunk screws to make a nice smooth and hard work surface, that's easily replaced if/when eventually needed. Chucked some satin poly on that to increase resistance to fluids, and some trim around the edges to make it look neat. Works great, looks good, and was very cheap!

Edited to add a picture of one end, not yet completed with doors for the cupboards underneath, but already seen some work: