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workbench top material

Krokodil

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I am going to start building my workbench shortly. The only unknown currently is the top material. Wood is generally a better all rounder, but not weldable. Solid steel plate feels like overkill for the non
pro welder and I am concerned about rust. Any ideas, tips?
 
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larry_g

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What do you forsee this bench being MAINLY used for? This will dictate the top material. If welding is not the primary use then you can have a metal sheet to slide over the top while welding. I prefer wood as It is easier on dropped parts and warmer to the touch.
lg
no neat sig line
 

porschedude996TT

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I have the my bench tops made of wood and I plan to build a rolling welding/cutting table out of steel with a cutting slag bucket in half of the table.

I wanted butcher block tops and I priced them thru a couple of industrial places and had my price thru her work (Cabinet Maker) and the price was going to be over $300 each and I needed 7 of them. I ended up going to see my son and there was an Ikea store and they had them for $170 each.
 
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regguy1

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On Mount Olympus with Zeus
I had these tops (metal part) made at fabricating shop. I have 1 1/2" wood under the metal,(2 sheets 3/4") Assembled the sides with angle iron and pop rivets. They've lasted since 1978 in commercial use.
 

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Krokodil

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It wil mainly be used for non welding work. I think my best bet will be to go for wood and get a metal sheet to pull over for occasional welding.
 

Jack Olsen

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Yeah, depending on what's available in your area, it's hard to beat a couple of thicknesses of 3/4" (19mm) plywood. And like Torque1st says, a thin layer of hardboard on top of that if you need a smooth surface.
 

odie82

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Laminate kitchen countertop, I got a 8' one from a homedepot that had a scratch in it for $20, oils and cleaners will not soak in to it like wood will
 

DaleK

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Depends on the wood. Just saying "wood" doesn't help. Mine are made of 3" thick rough cut elm, well dried. Doesn't much matter what you want to do on it, it'll stand up.
 

peterj

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I know I got lucky, but I built mine out of a bowling alley lane. Ran in to a guy who owned a construction company that just demolished a twelve lane bowling alley and thought he could make a buck selling them but nobody was interested. I got a whole lane and would have taken five more but I had no place to put them. The price was right - just get it out of his warehouse. About ten years ago I had to refinish it so I rented a floor sander and an edge sander and re-coated with three coats of polyurethane. Still has the pin markers.
 

hrace18

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Terrell, TX
I know I got lucky, but I built mine out of a bowling alley lane. Ran in to a guy who owned a construction company that just demolished a twelve lane bowling alley and thought he could make a buck selling them but nobody was interested. I got a whole lane and would have taken five more but I had no place to put them. The price was right - just get it out of his warehouse. About ten years ago I had to refinish it so I rented a floor sander and an edge sander and re-coated with three coats of polyurethane. Still has the pin markers.

Now that would make a very cool workbench!!! Pics?
 

curtrnev

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I have used bowling lane pieces before also they are awesome. Should have seen if they had the pins too, they make great targets.
 
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Torque1st

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If you want real HD planks find some T&Groove RR boxcar flooring. I have two benches made out of that material covered with 1/4" hardboard.
 

Jack Olsen

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Also -- if you've got the room for it -- think about different benches for different types of work. I'm just a homeowner who does little projects in the garage, but it's been a huge help to have some work surfaces for welding, some for woodworking, and some (the inch-thick steel one) for pounding.

You can never have too much work surface.
 

lupinsea

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You can also inquire at a lumber yard. They make Glu-Lam beams in 3 1/8" x 28" cross sections up to 40 ft continuous length. Get one of those to the length you need and turn it sideways (3 1/8" thick x 28" deep or whatever depth you want).

I "thought" I priced it out at around $13 / lft but that sounds low.

They have a 3 1/8" x 19 1/2", zero camber glu-lam listed for $9.27 / lft on the local lumber yard's website.

And if you want something beefier you can get the beams in 5 1/8" widths (thicknesses), too. 5 1/8" x 19 1/2" = $14.90 / lft. And a 21" deep beam is $16.70 / lft.

These depths aren't "wide enough" but they probably don't list everything that is available or possible through special order. Anyways, just an example.
 

welderwink

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Pa
how wide would you guys recommend for a work bench? Im not going to be doing any huge projects on it. Just your run of the mill tinkering.
 

Jack Olsen

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Anywhere from 30" to 32" is a nice depth. Guys like the bench top anywhere from 34" to 42" high. (All of mine are 37" high.)
 

kbs2244

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I am on the side of a sacrificial ¼ inch panel on top of 2x planks or double ¾ ply.
But I use the white stuff used in shower stalls.
I just think it makes things easier to see.
And since you only need a 30 to 36 inch wide piece you can get a damaged piece for cheap.
 
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Krokodil

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Today I saw a bench with rubber conveyer belt on top of steel plate. Looked very durable. Anybody seen this?
 

swharris

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So. Cal.
I am a fan of solid SS or SS over wood(sound dampening) especially if you do mostly automotive stuff. SS is just so easy to clean up oily messes, and is in essence a life time piece. That said, I think you need some specialized work areas like Jack said. Pounding/welding/gentle area that wood is good for.
 

swharris

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I had these tops (metal part) made at fabricating shop. I have 1 1/2" wood under the metal,(2 sheets 3/4") Assembled the sides with angle iron and pop rivets. They've lasted since 1978 in commercial use.

attachment.php


Perfect disassembly bench! I like.
 
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