Workbench Top Restoration ?

[Jeep Monkey RTR]

So I managed to scrounge up this Heavy Duty (Emphasis on the Heavy) Work Table made by Stronghold Products. It was used for years in a lab type situation and, as you can see, the top has seen a lot of use. In the middle you can see where the lab equipment sat but the edges are very worn.

Yesterday afternoon I took it to a coin operated spray wash place and thoroughly rinsed the whole thing down from top tot bottom and then took it back to my garage to let dry out.

My question is: Does anybody have any tips on sanding and restaining (or whatever the proper term would be here) this top to bring some beauty back to it?

I have attached a few pics for reference.

I know I should probably just go with it as is and use it, but I want to start with something clean.

Thanks.

 

[G_P]

Sand it down to bare wood. Then refinish it how you want it.

If it was in a lab some chemicals may have been spilled on it that soaked deep into the wood. You may never get some of the staining out.

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[Jeep Monkey RTR]

Great and thanks for the reply. Just wanted to make sure it was as simple as that. Should I put a top coat of polyuerethane to protect when finished?

Good point on the possible chemical stain issue.

 

[A_Pmech]

Use a power plane with replaceable carbide blades to take off the top 1/16" and most of the nastiness. Then run a belt sander over it to clean up any planing marks and finish with a random orbit sander.

For the finish, I would just use polyurethane as it's durable and readily available.

 

[Jeep Monkey RTR]

Re: Workbench Top Restoration UPDATE

I took the great advice you all provided and want to give a brief update. I wasnt able to source a hand planer from anybody in my area so I was forced to skip that step.

I was able to borrow the Belt Sander ( a Sears Craftsman from what looks like the 70's or 80's) and a brand new DeWalt RO sander.

Made a few passes on the belt sander with 80 grit paper and this was the result (1st Picture).

Then took the RO sander, again using 80 grit paper, for a few passes and then topped it off with a 220 grit. The results from that are in the 2 picture

 

[Stuart in MN]

I was going to suggest simply flipping the top over and using the backside, but I see you already solved the problem. Looks pretty good.

 

[Jeep Monkey RTR]

I was going to suggest simply flipping the top over and using the backside, but I see you already solved the problem. Looks pretty good.

Good thought and probably would have been easier to do that. I am not a woodworker at all. As a matter of fact I had never used either tool before. It is fun to see the progress.

Next up will be to stain some shade and polyuerethane the top.

Then it will be on to the steel to clean up.

 

[nmcqueen469]

Cleaned up very nicely, looks great!

 

[A_Pmech]

That worked better than I thought! Very nice!

 

[2many2s]

I had a butcher block top, similar in condition to Jeep Monkey RTR's, that required refinishing. I found a cabinet shop that had a wide belt sander that took off what was left of the finish and trimmed it down with a slab saw to the size that I needed for $60.00. I refinished it with Emmet's Good Stuff.

 

[G_P]

That looks great. A few coats of poly would be a good idea to prevent future spills from soaking in and staining.

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[melliott28]

That looks great. A few coats of poly would be a good idea to prevent future spills from soaking in and staining.

Sent via carrier pigeon

My thoughts exactly. OP, that is a very nice workbench. In my opinion metal workbenches with wood tops are the best.

 

[Zeke]

Use a power plane with replaceable carbide blades to take off the top 1/16" and most of the nastiness. Then run a belt sander over it to clean up any planing marks and finish with a random orbit sander.

For the finish, I would just use polyurethane as it's durable and readily available.

I have a 3 1/4" Makita planer and I seldom can use that on 6" boards with no ridge at the overlap. Wider than that and it would leave multiple ridges. Now if I were to use the HSS blades than CAN be set on a slight angle I could probably do a wider board and take the crown out with a belt sander.

A table? I think not. But if you've done it, more power.

One of the best tricks and not possible with replaceable carbide insert blades is to use a ever so slightly rounded plane iron and go on the bias. That method was practiced a couple or 3 centuries ago and only used today by those recreating the old methods.

I might have tried that on that bench.

 

[Ben7203]

Hey JM, Looks good. It will really pop when you add some poly to it.

did the same thing to my grand father's drafting table. It took me 2 evenings just to scrape off the old lament and backing. Then 8 coats of poly and 2 coats of wax. Now I need to do the rest of it and running out of excuses to start it.

 

[C lectric]

That top looks like hard maple. Be carefull allowing it to get wet. The wood will swell and the joints nearby may split open like mine did.
I'm now very carefull about water on it.