Workbench top thoughts and questions.

[bagged89s10]

So I'm about to purchase materials for my workbench top and have a question. The workbench is going to be about 11.5' long along my garage wall.

This is what I have in mind for an inexpensive yet sturdy top.

•2x4 along the full length of the back standing on edge.
•2 sheets of 3/4 plywood. Ripped in half at 24" and glued/screwed together to make a 1.5" thick top.
1/8"
•1.5"X1.5"x1/8" steel angle iron across the front/top edge. And the side edges too. Welded nicely of course.
•1/8 hardboard inlayed between the 2x4 back and front angle iron edge. 1 4x8 sheet ripped into two 22.5" wide pieces should fit perfectly.


This should yield a top which overhangs the front of the cabinets under my workbench by about 1.5" and should cost ≈ $100

Does this should like a good top?

Is this the correct hard board I should use or is there something better to use? I would do steel but that's not in the current budget.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-...0-115-in-x-47-7-in-x-95-7-in-832777/202046928

Thanks for your input







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Vvmvbb]

Sounds good to me. I guess I'm a little skeptical of the 1/8 hardboard since I've only ever used 1/4 for benches and 1/8 just seems thin, but I understand it will inlay nicely with your metal edge. You'll want to be able to change that layer without too much hassle anyway, so not a big worry. Just don't use a ton of glue to hold it down.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Probably overkill. What are you going to be setting on it that will require 1½ inches of wood to support it? I would go with one layer of ¾ plywood.

 

[OGJordan]

I made mine with 3/4" birch, 2 sheets. Cut into 2 pcs each: 16" and 32". I think layed one 32" down, sit the (2) 16" pcs on that, then the final 32" pc. All glued and clamped together. Put 1" poplar around it as an edge. Stained it with some of the "all in one" minwax stuff to make it a little slick. Put it on 4x4 legs and 2x4 framing. I stand on it often for project (230 lbs), beat it with hammers during different projects, etc. I've never babied it at all. Still near perfect, got some scratches and marks, paint, old tape etc on there; but I jumped up on there just today to mount some shelving on the wall. Just as sturdy as the floor.

As I finished it:

One coat of stain:

Second and final:

 

[jvitez]

OGJordan: beautiful work!

I always thought a double layer of 3/4" would be good, but your's is a very efficient way of fully using 2 sheets. 2 1/4" thick? Awesome!

 

[OGJordan]

Thanks, don't know about beautiful, but it's definitely pretty tough lol. I've put a Chevy 350 with trans still attached on it one time, held it now issues. Think I probably have $100-$150 in it? Then maybe 3 hrs to build it, somewhere around there.

 

[bagged89s10]

I made mine with 3/4" birch, 2 sheets. Cut into 2 pcs each: 16" and 32". I think layed one 32" down, sit the (2) 16" pcs on that, then the final 32" pc. All glued and clamped together. Put 1" poplar around it as an edge. Stained it with some of the "all in one" minwax stuff to make it a little slick. Put it on 4x4 legs and 2x4 framing. I stand on it often for project (230 lbs), beat it with hammers during different projects, etc. I've never babied it at all. Still near perfect, got some scratches and marks, paint, old tape etc on there; but I jumped up on there just today to mount some shelving on the wall. Just as sturdy as the floor.

As I finished it:

One coat of stain:

Second and final:

That's a nice bench and good use of 2 sheets of plywood. Birch is expensive though. I'll probably get maple. It's $10 per sheet cheaper than birch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[OGJordan]

I think it was like $40/sheet. I can't comprehend trying to save $20 to have a less dense table. And your signature is "Do it right. Don't.....cut corners just to finish something."

 

[bagged89s10]

I think it was like $40/sheet. I can't comprehend trying to save $20 to have a less dense table. And your signature is "Do it right. Don't.....cut corners just to finish something."

Haha. You convinced me to get birch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ilikeike]

I made a new wood top bench 11 years ago when we moved to the new place,but it got pretty beat up and didn't look too good after a year or so of home garage use, like working on nitro RC cars, Car and boat projects ,soldering, various cleaning solvents and oil stains... I ended up slapping some 3/16" metal on it with liquid nails.

 

[andrewd]

I did something similar to what I believe you're thinking up. I used aluminum angle at 1/16" thickness because it's a light duty bench and I don't have the tools nor the skills to properly lay down iron. Two layers of 1/2" ply with 1/8" Masonite on top. I'm very pleased with the result.

 

[Ckengine]

If you are going to do any hot work or heavy pounding go steel mine is 1/4 plate and square tubing cost about 350 but it was worth every penny.

 

[kbs2244]

I like your plan.
HD doesn’t say the color of that panel.
I like white, and they have 4x8 panels that have a mostly white surface.
I use them as a “sacrificial” top.
They will eventually scratch enough to need replacement, but the are cheap.
In my experience it has stood up to any chemical but acetone.
They may be 1/4 thick though.

 

[bagged89s10]

I just found 24" butcher blocks on clearance at the local sears parts. $75 each for two 6 foot and $85 for 8 foot. Plus the manager is giving me 10% off if I buy all 3. $225 for vs paying about $160 for plywood can't be beat. I'm pumped! Picking them up tomorrow.

 

[tmshort]

I'm a big fan of MDF for my bench tops ... I have it on 5 right now, many over 10 years old.

It is flat and durable, yet inexpensive and sacrificial if it needs to be replaced.

I lightly sand it and put on 3 or so coats of polyurethane and it has endured gas, oil, solvents, etc.

It is great to drill into when working on projects that need some sort of support (sheet metal, etc).

 

[zkling]

Good choice. I was going to suggest butcher block.

 

[bagged89s10]

Good choice. I was going to suggest butcher block.

Thanks. Less labor for about the same cost. Can't pass up the deal. I do want my bench a little deeper, so I was thinking to lay 2x3s along flat along the back. I have bunch of them I got for free already. A 2.5" overhang comes in handy to clamp something down. Also my drill press is 26" deep, I think.

 

[bagged89s10]

So I went to sears in my way to work and got all 3 for $152 with tax. The guy working there must have misread his managers note and gave me both 6 footers for $75 instead of $75 each. Awesome!

 

[bagged89s10]

My workbench progress pics are in my garage build thread.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252485

 

[zepher11]

I'm a big fan of MDF for my bench tops ... I have it on 5 right now, many over 10 years old.

It is flat and durable, yet inexpensive and sacrificial if it needs to be replaced.

I lightly sand it and put on 3 or so coats of polyurethane and it has endured gas, oil, solvents, etc.

It is great to drill into when working on projects that need some sort of support (sheet metal, etc).

I'm a fan of MDF as well. I have had my main bench with an MDF top for over 12 years, and it has held up to plenty of abuse. I just finished a new work bench in my new garage, and I went with four coats of polyurethane this time. I didn't do this to my old work bench and the occasional beer was knocked over which would leave a mark. Shouldn't have this problem with the four coats of polyurethane on the surface now.

As mentioned the MDF is cheap and solid. I install it with screws inset into 2x4's to protect the edges so that it is easily replaceable, but have never had the need yet:

 

[NewEdgePerf]

"and I went with four coats of polyurethane this time. I didn't do this to my old work bench and the occasional beer was knocked over which would leave a mark. Shouldn't have this problem with the four coats of polyurethane on the surface now."

It is still a "problem" when a beer gets knocked over! That is a beer you do not get to enjoy!

 

[Chevy-SS]

I gotta LOL at the pictures of the nice bench tops. Those are beautiful, but what kind of WORK do you actually do on them???

On my workbench, I'm tossing car parts & tools - drilling, sawing, cutting, sanding, etc, etc....

The last thing I want to worry about is scratching my pristine workbench top.

 

[bagged89s10]

My workbench progress pics are in my garage build thread.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252485

The butcher block is 1.5" think x 24" deep but I want a 26" deep workbench. My idea is to take a 2x3 and lay it flat to add 2.5" to the depth.
next step is to frame out the workbench.

 

[pablo94sc]

Bumping this thread because I need thickness insight. I was told by a seasoned woodworker that my 2x4 ladder frame with 3/4" MDF top (sunken flush with 2x6 edge) would be sturdy for just about anything. Seems like 1.5" is the favorite here though. Should I go thicker? Inquiring minds want to know (before I install the legs). Lol

 

[bagged89s10]

Bumping this thread because I need thickness insight. I was told by a seasoned woodworker that my 2x4 ladder frame with 3/4" MDF top (sunken flush with 2x6 edge) would be sturdy for just about anything. Seems like 1.5" is the favorite here though. Should I go thicker? Inquiring minds want to know (before I install the legs). Lol

Do you have a picture of the ladder frame and how far apart are the 2x4s spaced?

 

[pablo94sc]

Do you have a picture of the ladder frame and how far apart are the 2x4s spaced?

I have a lot of trouble posting pics from my phone so I'll describe it the best I can. It's two 80" boards front and rear, with six 21" boards spaced roughly 16" on center. Currently using 2 deck screws per side of each rib to hold it in place. That may change with nails. The legs are going to be 2x4 as well. First one will be in each corner flush with the top of the frame and screwed into the front board and side rib. Then below that I plan to sister another 2x4 that the frame rests on. May add a third board that sits under the side 2x6 outer frame I planned to edge the top flush with, for an 83"x27" work surface. The legs are overkill, but meh. There will be a recessed lower frame (for toe space) similar to the top, a space on the right to place my mini fridge, and either a single middle shelf or shelves in the center and left side (undecided) for storage. Thinking 38" tall so my belly can rest on it. Lol

Edit: As it stands, I can use it as a ladder for my 200lb ****, but may add additional ribs and/or center spurs connecting the ribs.

 

[pablo94sc]

Pic of layout before realizing 80/16 = 6 boards. DOH!

 

[bagged89s10]

I have a lot of trouble posting pics from my phone so I'll describe it the best I can. It's two 80" boards front and rear, with six 21" boards spaced roughly 16" on center. Currently using 2 deck screws per side of each rib to hold it in place. That may change with nails. The legs are going to be 2x4 as well. First one will be in each corner flush with the top of the frame and screwed into the front board and side rib. Then below that I plan to sister another 2x4 that the frame rests on. May add a third board that sits under the side 2x6 outer frame I planned to edge the top flush with, for an 83"x27" work surface. The legs are overkill, but meh. There will be a recessed lower frame (for toe space) similar to the top, a space on the right to place my mini fridge, and either a single middle shelf or shelves in the center and left side (undecided) for storage. Thinking 38" tall so my belly can rest on it. Lol



Edit: As it stands, I can use it as a ladder for my 200lb ****, but may add additional ribs and/or center spurs connecting the ribs.

Pic of layout before realizing 80/16 = 6 boards. DOH!

I would double up the 3/4" mdf for the top. Just think about it like a floor of a house. Most floors have joists 16" on center and then doubled up plywood which removed a lot of flex. If you double up your mdf, you can hammer on your workbench and not worry about anything. But then again, I guess it depends on what your going to use it for.

 

[drivesitfar]

Bagged: It might be too late to change plans on your workbench, but Jeremy bought some old metal cabinets for a deal off of Craigslist last year and was searching for some used butcher block to make the top of the bench.

i knew he didn't want to spend what a new butcher block top cost or even half that much so i suggested he might look into trying to find some old thick lumber to buy. it didn't take him long to find some nice lumber that i think is about 3.5 inches thick for his top. he spent a few weekends gluing and planing it before he put several coats of varathane on it, but i think it looks awesome so here's a few pictures.

as far as thickness you could even buy a 1/4 inch piece of steel plate for your top. or 2 pieces of 3/4 inch plywood if you want to keep the 16 inch on center supports and if you want to have it nice and sturdy with only one piece of 3/4 then maybe double up the supports and put them 8 inch on center if you are going to pound on your bench.

I have several workbenches some metal and some wood and not one as of today is clean and ready to do any work on so that's my goal. here's the one at my shop that i picked up last year. Costco sold these made in China copies of the Gladiator workbench and sold them a few years ago and the metal cabinets i found to put under them are not as common.

good luck

 

[bagged89s10]

Bagged: It might be too late to change plans on your workbench, but Jeremy bought some old metal cabinets for a deal off of Craigslist last year and was searching for some used butcher block to make the top of the bench.



i knew he didn't want to spend what a new butcher block top cost or even half that much so i suggested he might look into trying to find some old thick lumber to buy. it didn't take him long to find some nice lumber that i think is about 3.5 inches thick for his top. he spent a few weekends gluing and planing it before he put several coats of varathane on it, but i think it looks awesome so here's a few pictures.



as far as thickness you could even buy a 1/4 inch piece of steel plate for your top. or 2 pieces of 3/4 inch plywood if you want to keep the 16 inch on center supports and if you want to have it nice and sturdy with only one piece of 3/4 then maybe double up the supports and put them 8 inch on center if you are going to pound on your bench.



I have several workbenches some metal and some wood and not one as of today is clean and ready to do any work on so that's my goal. here's the one at my shop that i picked up last year. Costco sold these made in China copies of the Gladiator workbench and sold them a few years ago and the metal cabinets i found to put under them are not as common.



good luck

Drives. I ended up getting some butcher block workbench tops from the local sears parts store dirt cheap.



1.5" thick x 24" deep. I bought two 6 footers and one 8 footer for a total of about $150 I think.

I'm making a third workbench out of 2 of my vintage craftsman toolboxes and undecided on top as of right now. I want steel but it's a little out of the budget right now. I went to the steel yard and the bargain barn has steel for $1/pound. I grabbed a sheet to throw on the scale. A piece 26 3/8" x 36" x 5/16" thick weighed 90lbs. I'll probably use scrap plywood I have Laying around and double it up for now. Later on I will add a steel plate unless one pops up on CL for a steal.

 

[pablo94sc]

Electronics work, car work, and maybe some basic woodworking. I'm thinking a smaller plywood base and the MDF top. Might put a sealant on top of that as well. Should look good and be plenty durable I think.

 

[bagged89s10]

Electronics work, car work, and maybe some basic woodworking. I'm thinking a smaller plywood base and the MDF top. Might put a sealant on top of that as well. Should look good and be plenty durable I think.

Yeah just go at least 1.5" thick total so you have an all around useful bench. I was going to go with double 3/4" plywood and then 1/8" hardboard on top before I scored a deal on my butcher blocks.

 

[ZRX61]

While 24in deep workbenches are easy because you just rip a 4x8 sheet of ply in half, it's not really deep enough for a workbench. Spring for the extra wood & go 30in deep.
The top on mine is 3 2x10's topped with one layer of 1/2in ply & topped with 1/4in masonite.

 

[Jackfre]

I made mine with 3/4" birch, 2 sheets. Cut into 2 pcs each: 16" and 32". I think layed one 32" down, sit the (2) 16" pcs on that, then the final 32" pc. All glued and clamped together. Put 1" poplar around it as an edge. Stained it with some of the "all in one" minwax stuff to make it a little slick. Put it on 4x4 legs and 2x4 framing. I stand on it often for project (230 lbs), beat it with hammers during different projects, etc. I've never babied it at all. Still near perfect, got some scratches and marks, paint, old tape etc on there; but I jumped up on there just today to mount some shelving on the wall. Just as sturdy as the floor.

As I finished it:

One coat of stain:

Second and final:

Indeed, nice work on the bench. Now, tell us about the car!

 

[bagged89s10]

While 24in deep workbenches are easy because you just rip a 4x8 sheet of ply in half, it's not really deep enough for a workbench. Spring for the extra wood & go 30in deep.
The top on mine is 3 2x10's topped with one layer of 1/2in ply & topped with 1/4in masonite.

Agreed that 24" is a little shy for a good workbench depth. I ended up laying a 2x3 flat along the back of my 24" deep but her blocks to gain an extra 2.5" to make a 26.5" deep workbench. I would love a little deeper bench top but I have a fairly small 2 car garage and wanted to have a chance to park a second vehicle in my garage.

OGJordan had a good idea and ripped 2 sheets of plywood into 16" and 32" pieces each to make a 2.25" thick by 32" deep workbench.

Back when I lived at my parents house I built a workbench out 2x10s or maybe 2x8s with 1/2" plywood on top. Thing was solid. I never added the Masonite like you did though.

 

[rick carpenter]

I'm a big fan of MDF for my bench tops ... I have it on 5 right now, many over 10 years old.

It is flat and durable, yet inexpensive and sacrificial if it needs to be replaced.

I lightly sand it and put on 3 or so coats of polyurethane and it has endured gas, oil, solvents, etc.

It is great to drill into when working on projects that need some sort of support (sheet metal, etc).

+1! My bench top is base of 1.75" particle wood industrial door with a sacrificial 1/2" mdf top surface. The mdf is bathed all six surfaces with an ~equal mix of turpentine & boiled linseed oil & varnish, and it lays down flat and secure with two screws. I'm not afraid to gouge/bang into it or stain it as it can be 'replaced' the first time by just flipping it over, after that a new sheet. Mine nicely endures sweat from 12 oz grain-based beverage cans.

If anyone wants to go ladder-style, I suggest you go with a full blown torsion box. It can be very light, or not, and is very rigid. Then add a sacrificial top. I have a portable 5'x18" torsion box made of baltic birch and 1x3s that my chop saw base is permanently mounted to. It doesn't flex at all on sawhorses, so anything you do for a permanent bench will just be all the better.