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workbench top

Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
20
Location
Missouri
looking for a cost effective sturdy top for a workbench. I already have a steel frame workbench and looking to put a good top on it.
 
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Splitpi

Active member
Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
32
Location
Sachse, TX
2x4 Sandwich

Run the would through a table saw and trim 1/4 inch off of each side (not the end). This will square up the wood to be a uniform shape perfect for glueing and making a nice "butcher block" top.
 

kyrbz

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Messages
1,297
Location
midwest US
Two layers of 3/4" MDF makes for a solid top

Seal the edges with polyurethane or PC Wood Hardener and add a 1/8" or 1/4" masonite top to the MDF to take the abuse. I wouldn't glue the masonite, just a few screws to hold it in place. That way if you need to replace it, it's easy to do.

Many comercial made workbench tops are made of MDF sandwiched with masonite.

I use mostly 3/4" melamine tops in my wood shop. My metal shop worktable tops are baltic birch plywood with a sheet of 11 ga. steel on top. I always seal the exposed edges whether plywood or MDF.

BZ
 
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crab

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Messages
940
Put a 3/16 steel top on it, only way to go. Nothing thinner. It will outlast you if the frame is good.
 

Handyfarmer

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2014
Messages
316
Location
in the high plains of Colorado
my tops are 10 gauge steel that has been formed by a brake with a front edge that come down and bent back about a half inch, and a back splash up about 2 foot,

(they were in a industrial scrap yard (new) and were bent for a truck box)

no you do not hammer and pound on them with sledge hammers,
 

dv8customs

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2007
Messages
162
Location
East Texas
I agree it depends on how you plan to use it. For just general work I have a couple with the MDF tops like this

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But if I am doing something that I will need to break out the big hammers for, I use one of these with the 1" steel tops

10805618_884810651553849_3594791054395088054_n_zpsa5b577fb.jpg
 
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mike13u

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
616
Location
S.Florida
What will you do on the top? If you work with metal, wood ***** as a top. If you work with wood, you have a lot more options. If you baby it and use it more as a shop desk or area to sit and work on small electronics or clean and lightweight items, any flat hard surface material will work. For example, an old laminate kitchen or bathroom counter makes a great surface for a shop table if your not into working heat/metal/etc.
 

Debriefer

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 5, 2010
Messages
53
After having an oil-impregnated wood top catch fire, I can say that I will never recommend wood as a workbench top, unless you are only ever going to do wood work, or other things that don't involve oil and heat.

My workbench top is 2x8s beside each other with 316 stainless 20ga on top. I /almost/ recommend it.
 

dr_clyde

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
6,421
Location
Holland, MI
For metalwork, a steel top is a must. I feel 1/4" thick is the minimum. For wood and general work I use a piece of 1-1/2" thick plywood that has been sanded and clear coated with a fairly hard lacquer.

Fine delicate work I like a white top, melamine or something similar. Smooth and easy to find tiny screws.
 

kwb

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2009
Messages
1,769
Location
PNW
I did 3/4 cabinet ply framed like a wall underneath with 2x4's and is rock solid. I have a chunk of .080 aluminum on part of it. Used it for years for everything and while it has some war wounds it is still in decent shape.

Now for welding I have a dedicated 1" piece of T-1 that is about 5' square
 

cwalt

Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2013
Messages
9
I recently fabricated one for my old Stanley-Vidmar tool storage cabinets using 1x12x8' red oak. The base has 1x4 red oak all around the perimeter with 1x12 lumber in the center section ripped to fit. The top is all red oak. I used my Porter-Cable plate joiner and installed #10 biscuits about every 10". I utilized Tite Bond III glue to assemble. The finished top required minimal sanding with my 4" belt sander. I stained the surface with a clear stain then next day applied Tung oil then rubbed it in real well after thirty minutes. I'm satisfied with the results. Whenever I can find time to spare, I'll sand down the rusty cabinets and each drawer inside and out and paint.
 

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cwalt

Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2013
Messages
9
I should have mentioned the size of the workbench red oak top. I cut the 8' pieces to 88-5/8" in length which allowed me 28-3/4" between the two storage cabinets. The width of each cabinet is 30". The depth of top is 27-5/8", same as depth of cabinets. I drilled four holes in the top of each cabinet then removed three drawers to gain access and used #12 pan head screws to secure the top to the cabinets. The screws go up into the top section but not threw the top surface. This leaves the top surface nice and clean.
I considered using Danish oil on the top but chose Tung oil as my research indicated it has superior qualities for the purpose.
The bottom assembly center pieces are 1" x 12" x 8' white pine trimmed to allow for the 1" x 4" red oak surrounding the white pine. I did use my Delta 12" planer to get the material to the same thickness prior to using the plate joiner for the biscuits. After gluing in and clamping it all up, there was very little mismatch where the various pieces joined each other. I hope this might help someone in planning. I could have purchased a top but most are to short in length and quite pricey. The red oak lumber is not cheap but pretty solid durable wood. I haven't figured exactly how much I have into the project but about $200. The height of the work surface is 34-3/4". I wanted to be able to sit in a chair or stool and work from the surface comfortable. I will place a large tool box in the center to the back side.
I plan on building a large long workbench later when I have more time. It will have my radial arm saw placed within the bench. Right now I am busy building out my office and bathroom in my 40' x 50' x 15' metal building erected last fall.
 
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