Workbench top

[MarineScott]

I am looking to build a workbench using Edsal steel workbench legs. I am looking to put on a heavy duty top, but on a budget. I was thinking 2X6's with plywood on top. I will also be bolting the table to the floor.
Your input and opinions please.

 

[Ign]

You might read the advice I got from a friend in post #14 here, and in the end I went w OSB covered w UHMW sheet:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281338

 

[NitroGarage]

You might read the advice I got from a friend in post #14 here, and in the end I went w OSB covered w UHMW sheet:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281338

Great idea, and I love working with 1x tubing as well, great strength/space.

 

[MarkG]

I couldn't be happier with the top I built for my woodworking bench 20+ years ago-----got the idea from a magazine or plan or something, I forgot.

It's a standard woodworking bench design but the top is 2 layers of 3/4" ply and a top layer of 1/4" Masonite all laminated together and edge-banded with solid Oak. It was then soaked with several applications of a tung oil/danish oil finish wiping off excess each time after letting it soak in.

This is a solid, rigid top and the Masonite is tough, especially after it is soaked with tung oil with almost makes it bullet-proof, but it is still easy on any edged tools you may happen to ding into it. This finish also makes any dried wood glue very easy to remove----it pops right off after it's dry.

It's also easy to apply more danish oil anytime you feel like it needs it, since this finish isn't a 'film-forming finish'.

If you're looking for pretty, this isn't it, but it works better and is more versatile than any other I've seen.

 

[cgrutt]

What about laminating 2x4s on edge so you wind up with 3-1/2" solid top?

 

[Stuart in MN]

It's a standard woodworking bench design but the top is 2 layers of 3/4" ply and a top layer of 1/4" Masonite all laminated together

I use this method as well. The Masonite can be held down with a few screws, so that when it eventually gets beat up it can be easily replaced. I've found it to be pretty resistant to oil and grease, and it's cheap.

 

[bdbecker]

Masonite is definitely the "tried and true" favorite. One other option you might consider, especially if you want something that looks a little different, is using utility grade oak flooring like this:

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll...ton-OA2U/10008112?googlePageType=searchresult

I was going to go this route until I ended up with a couple of sheets of 3/16" steel.

-----

What about laminating 2x4s on edge so you wind up with 3-1/2" solid top?

This would look very cool. But if you did this, I think you'd want to seal/protect the wood with some sort of clear epoxy resin (like on a bar top) to keep the boards from warping with seasons and to protect the fairly soft wood.

 

[cgrutt]

Yeah, I was thinking more along the lines of an oil finish such as BLO or Tung oil (with resin) that can be easily touched up but definitely would need something to preserve it.

 

[Ainsley]

I went with two layers of 3/4" ply, G1S on the top coated in fabulon polyurethane. I plan on eventually capping it with stainless or I would have probably gone with a layer of hardboard on top and trimmed it all with hardwood like I did on my son's mini-bench.

 

[Git]

I think a lot depends on what you plan on doing on your workbench

Working on oily, greasy parts, drilling holes that sometimes go through what your drilling, working on electronics, etc

I went with a simple, replaceable 3/4" mdf top that is screwed to a layer of 2x for support. Very sturdy and if the top gets screwed up, I just replace it.

 

[gungatim]

I couldn't be happier with the top I built for my woodworking bench 20+ years ago-----got the idea from a magazine or plan or something, I forgot.

It's a standard woodworking bench design but the top is 2 layers of 3/4" ply and a top layer of 1/4" Masonite all laminated together and edge-banded with solid Oak. It was then soaked with several applications of a tung oil/danish oil finish wiping off excess each time after letting it soak in.

This is a solid, rigid top and the Masonite is tough, especially after it is soaked with tung oil with almost makes it bullet-proof, but it is still easy on any edged tools you may happen to ding into it. This finish also makes any dried wood glue very easy to remove----it pops right off after it's dry.

It's also easy to apply more danish oil anytime you feel like it needs it, since this finish isn't a 'film-forming finish'.

If you're looking for pretty, this isn't it, but it works better and is more versatile than any other I've seen.

I did something similar in the woodshop; 3 layers of 3/4" MDF glued and screwed together (from bottom, no screws in top). I banded it with plain old 2x4's, and built in a woodworking vice. I can tell you it is one stout top! and very heavy. coated with a few layers of poly. I would not hesitate to build another for the workshop if I ever need one.

found a pic

 

[ez-duzit]

Tempered Masonite makes an excellent bench top. UHMW--not!

 

[Shiftless]

My benchtop is 2x6 lumber screwed down to a ladder frame of 2x4s lagged to the back wall and supposted in the front with 4x4s. All this topped with 1/4 inch tempered hardboard, Masonite. If the top layer becomes too damaged in the future it is easily replaced. Unless you weld, it is the best choice for many of us.

 

[Eric Commarato]

Lumber Liquidators has nice 1 1/2"x 25"x8'-0" long oak benchtops for under $200. You can get maple and other wood species there as well. Check them out.

 

[wakemeup]

Lumber Liquidators has nice 1 1/2"x 25"x8'-0" long oak benchtops for under $200. You can get maple and other wood species there as well. Check them out.

Do you have a link? I searched their website and only found the oak 1 1/2 by 36" by 6'. Thanks


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[crewchief888]

if you have an IKEA it may be an option for a butcher block top.

 

[Shiftless]

Lumber Liquidators has nice 1 1/2"x 25"x8'-0" long oak benchtops for under $200. You can get maple and other wood species there as well. Check them out.

For anybody looking for a great looking benchtop at a reasonable price, that is a super deal. Dont forget a few coats of some kind of sealer to keep it nice if that's what you want. My Masonite top got stained the first week out. (No sealer)

 

[Empty Pockets]

I bought an 8 foot piece of maple butcher block from a lumber yard that was going out of business. It's served me well for over 15 years

 

[Hammer1963]

I have used unfinished reject Maple flooring that can be sourced from many flooring stores. Tough as hell! Remove the bad areas and assemble like a butcher block. I may have $30.00 in the top. Yes it takes some work but will probably be around 50 years from now.

 

[cgrutt]

I have used unfinished reject Maple flooring that can be sourced from many flooring stores. Tough as hell! Remove the bad areas and assemble like a butcher block. I may have $30.00 in the top. Yes it takes some work but will probably be around 50 years from now.

No doubt maple is good stuff. I made a maple bench top for a small bench in my basement and love it.

 

[GS-Louie]

I used an old bowling alley. It cost $20/linear foot for a total of $160. Cut down to the width I needed I have another 8' x 16" section I have enough left over to make another smaller top, or shelving or...

Lou

 

[JCQuick]

Oh I'm in for this topic I'm planning a Steve O type work bench and want a wood top would like Oak problem has been the size I want 24" wide x 10' long and 1-1/2" thick

 

[justanengineer]

JMO but many spend far more than I'd want for a workbench and end up with a pretty lightweight bench. I knocked this together in an afternoon shortly after I moved to Indiana a few years back for ~$7. The cabinets are old tin office equipment and came from the local auction house for $3 total. The top is scrap 4x4s "clamped" with threaded rod, glued, and hand planed, and the skid it sits on is also scrap built with fork slots for moving. We stained it with a mixture of leftovers from other projects, mainly heavy-duty hardwood floor stain. Total weight is ~500 lbs and I've set significantly more on it. When it comes time to refinish I'll probably just hand plane it again and wont think twice about tossing it if I ever need space, it doesnt owe me anything. Please ignore the wife's boxes, yes she works w/me often and has her own vintage auto and other projects.




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[NitroGarage]

I was going to make a laminated top out of 2x pine or fir but it dents so easily, I'l looking to make one out of pallet oak on end, laminated and planed.

 

[btdobie]

I have 12gauge mild steel over 3/4 OSB and it is rock solid and smooth. I had the edges of the steel bent down on a break and the back side bent up as a backsplash by a local machine shop. They charged me $100 total for the steel, cutting, and bending.

 

[Technologyteacher]

I used a solid core smooth wood fire door. I put the door knob hole along the back edge of the workbench and installed a surface electrical box over the hole for recepticals. If you check stores like Habitat reStores you can find doors for very little money.

 

[glider]

Over the past 16 years that is the third top. It's nice to be able to run screws or do what you need to do.

 

[rick carpenter]

I've got a sacrificial work surface top of 1/2" mdf soaked in BLO/Turpentine/Varnish with 2 screws holding it down. I'm not afraid to beat into it or spill on it.

 

[sjvicker]

I used leftover cheapo laminate flooring glued to osb. Cheap, durable, wipe able and doesn't look half bad

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