To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Working with Epoxy Grout

Jsf721

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
4,139
Location
LI, NY
I have a cracked/chipped porcelain tile In my family room. Not sure how it happened but we had company for Thanksgiving, and we have a pool table in that room so who knows.

I have the extra tile, picked up the correct grout and I think the correct adhesive and notched trowel.

My plan is to heat gun the grout around the damaged tile, razor cut the grout at the tile edges, dig it out with a punch, screwdriver, and putty knife. Then take a chisel and smack the porcelain tile that is already chipped, remove the and old adhesive with a chisel and multitool. Clean and vacuum area to get nice clean level areas to install new tile. Apply the adhesive to the floor use notch trowel to make lines north and south, and apply same adhesive to the back of the tile with notch trowel make lines same direction, lay tile in space and twist the tile in to seat it and get it level. Use a Qtip, or screwdriver to remove all adhesive that leaked into the grout line area while twisting tile in place, and let it set up. Then carefully pipe in the grout (thinking of using a disposable ketchup type bottle with the pointed tip) until it fills the space, use my wet finger to shape, press in grout and then a wet sponge to clean up the area. Alternative is to use a float but I wonder if that is bigger mess than I need to make to install one 12 x 24 tile? Sound good?

I know Epoxy grout is not the same as traditional grout and working clean is key. DO I wipe it up with a sponge and water, or is there a special solvent that I need to wipe with the avoid the dreaded epoxy haze that is close to impossible to remove once its set up?

Suggestions, criticism, product recommendations and tips would be highly appreciated, this is my fist time doing this and using epoxy grout.

Thanks
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

rustyjames

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
1,077
Location
central nj
Laticrete has a wash powder you mix with water for their epoxy. I belive you can also use a vinager/water mix as well. I know you need to stay on top of it, you definitely don't want it to get away from you. Follow the manufacturers directions carefully.
 

pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
I’ve done a good amount of Spectralock (the Laticrete epoxy). Watch their videos on YouTube for a detailed procedure. Don’t fear all the naysayers (at least with Spectralock) as it’s easy to avoid haze if you follow their procedure.

Personally, I’d highly recommend using a float, even for only 1 tile. Epoxy is pretty “doughy” and you need to pack the grout into the joint, something that won’t happen with a q-tip. Also if you have a Dremel tool or oscillating tool they make grout removal bits that will make that job 1billion times easier.

I also just use a putty knife and sponge to get thinset “******” out of the joints.

Finally, you don’t notch the thinset on the back of your tile, you just “butter” it with the flat side of your trowel.

Watch the Laticrete, Custom, or Schulter videos and you’ll see how the pros do it (avoid some of the YouTube hacks as they have some bad advice).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
J

Jsf721

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
4,139
Location
LI, NY
Thanks very much for the guidance and suggestions.

Laticrete has a wash powder you mix with water for their epoxy. I belive you can also use a vinager/water mix as well. I know you need to stay on top of it, you definitely don't want it to get away from you. Follow the manufacturers directions carefully.

I’ve done a good amount of Spectralock (the Laticrete epoxy). Watch their videos on YouTube for a detailed procedure. Don’t fear all the naysayers (at least with Spectralock) as it’s easy to avoid haze if you follow their procedure.

Personally, I’d highly recommend using a float, even for only 1 tile. Epoxy is pretty “doughy” and you need to pack the grout into the joint, something that won’t happen with a q-tip. Also if you have a Dremel tool or oscillating tool they make grout removal bits that will make that job 1billion times easier.

I also just use a putty knife and sponge to get thinset “******” out of the joints.

Finally, you don’t notch the thinset on the back of your tile, you just “butter” it with the flat side of your trowel.

Watch the Laticrete, Custom, or Schulter videos and you’ll see how the pros do it (avoid some of the YouTube hacks as they have some bad advice).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Radix2

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Messages
1,853
Location
the thumb!, MI
I think you have the matter well in hand, just follow the directions on the epoxy grout and it is a breeze for that small area.

Don't overthink the putting the mortar down. It will be trial and error to get just the right amount anyway. My only suggestion is to have some type of stout non metal pry bar at hand in case you need to pull the tile back out to add or subract some mortar - harbor freight has a cheap kit of plastic ones for prying off car interior parts that would work. You could also use a metal pry with some duct tape on it to avoid chipping the surrounding tiles. The suction of pulling a tile up in this situation can be big!
 
OP
J

Jsf721

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
4,139
Location
LI, NY
Thanks I have the interior plastic pry kit as well as the suction cup so I’m good to go tonight.

I tend to over think things because I don’t want to get caught mid job without the knowledge to complete the task or without the correct materials in hand.

Appreciate the time you took to respond.

I think you have the matter well in hand, just follow the directions on the epoxy grout and it is a breeze for that small area.

Don't overthink the putting the mortar down. It will be trial and error to get just the right amount anyway. My only suggestion is to have some type of stout non metal pry bar at hand in case you need to pull the tile back out to add or subract some mortar - harbor freight has a cheap kit of plastic ones for prying off car interior parts that would work. You could also use a metal pry with some duct tape on it to avoid chipping the surrounding tiles. The suction of pulling a tile up in this situation can be big!
 
OP
J

Jsf721

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
4,139
Location
LI, NY
Thanks for the time you took to respond. I appreciate it.

I’ve done a good amount of Spectralock (the Laticrete epoxy). Watch their videos on YouTube for a detailed procedure. Don’t fear all the naysayers (at least with Spectralock) as it’s easy to avoid haze if you follow their procedure.

Personally, I’d highly recommend using a float, even for only 1 tile. Epoxy is pretty “doughy” and you need to pack the grout into the joint, something that won’t happen with a q-tip. Also if you have a Dremel tool or oscillating tool they make grout removal bits that will make that job 1billion times easier.

I also just use a putty knife and sponge to get thinset “******” out of the joints.

Finally, you don’t notch the thinset on the back of your tile, you just “butter” it with the flat side of your trowel.

Watch the Laticrete, Custom, or Schulter videos and you’ll see how the pros do it (avoid some of the YouTube hacks as they have some bad advice).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Laticrete has a wash powder you mix with water for their epoxy. I belive you can also use a vinager/water mix as well. I know you need to stay on top of it, you definitely don't want it to get away from you. Follow the manufacturers directions carefully.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom