Working with Metal Boxes

[Spudland_Dave]

This is my first time using metal boxes for in wall wiring, so forgive the stupid questions...using handy boxes/surface mount boxes I've got plenty of experience with but in wall/flush/sheetrocked boxes this is a first for me. Hate to get this wrong and have to re-do them all before sheetrocking.

Placement...do you place the face of the box flush with the studs? Or "countersink" them by the thickess of the steel (1/16 or so?) so when you put the mudring on the base of the mudring is flush with the stud?

What got me to thinking about it is I've got a couple Steel City boxes and a couple from the electric supply house. The ones from the electic supply house have a mounting tab on the ears which recess the box a bit...the steel city does not....I personally like the Steel city box better...SOLID box when mounted.

All that being said...I used plastic Arlington "OneBox" boxes for the "Garage side" which is lighter duty application...shop vac's and radios being plugged in, but now i'm wiring the shop end and considering returning all the plastic boxes are replacing with metal boxes & mud rings for solid mounting...good idea?

 

[Zeke]

No matter how you try to out think this, something won't be exactly right. Like the screw heads holding the drywall up a bit. I'd just make sure you're clear of any interference with the mud ring of choice installed.

That is if I understand the question.

Some boxes have a L shaped mount that wraps the corner of the stud. That for sure messes with the drywall. But they are strong.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I think you got the question right...so after installing my 1st box (2 gang mudring for 14-50R) I placed a scrap piece of sheetrock next to it and I found I'm oh, .100" low on the face of the mudring, and the sheetrock would be "lifted" by .050ish due to the thickness of the mudring (where screws hold it, etc)..
Dont want to end up with way low boxes... OR should I get 5/8" mudrings and plan to put the face of the mudring flush with the 1/2" sheetrock like you would a plastic box?

 

[frankush]

Box is mounted flush with the face of stud. Drywall or finished sheathing depth, should be the same as the size of the plaster ring. That is what is required. You can put a 5/8" on it, but if the ring does not finish flush with the sheathing and sticks out, then your finish plate will also stick out.

 

[Aceman]

Use 4 square deep bracket boxes for everything. Set the box flush with the front of the stud. Use an 1/8" deeper ring than your wall thickness.

1/2" sheetrock=5/8" mud ring.

Don't worry if the box isn't exactly flush with the sheetrock. They usually end up anywhere from flush to a 1/4" back depending on how the sheetrock finishes out.

 

[2Big2Ride]

Hopefully this rough-in installation example is correct since drywall is not very far away. 4" square box, 2-1/8" deep with 1/2" mud rings.

View media item 30007

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Hopefully this rough-in installation example is correct since drywall is not very far away. 4" square box, 2-1/8" deep with 1/2" mud rings.

That exact box you posted is what got me to ask the question... those boxes are what I had gotten from my electric supply house yesterday. When you install them with the "Locating tabs" on the bracket, the box face ends up a bit recessed. I installed the box but it was a bit floppy for me, so I removed it and installed a Steel City box I had which had a bigger/more robust bracket..