Working with steel framing

[BoostedOne]

So I am looking at revamping some of my "shop", which started out as a simple pole barn that was slabbed and had walls added.
One wall is still unmodified. It was an area that was 2 horse stalls.

One of the things I want to do is remove that area all together. The roofing is getting thin, the ends of the rafters and first purlin are rotten from not being protected when it was installed by previous owner.

I am wanting to enclose this area. I know normal wood framing methods I would normally use to accomplish this, but I have been looking into light gauge steel framing. Note, I am not talking about red iron and tubular steel construction. I am referring to the light gauge framing that comes in normal 2x lumber sizes, which uses different gauges of steel depending on the location.

I am getting a pretty decent feel for how to "build" with it, but the part that is stumping me right now that I am having no luck is how you attach certain things to it.

The one that is really getting me is attachment of a garage door(panelized, not roll up). Normally you would have several king and trimmer studs, and then your 2x6 jambs vertically screwed to them. Then the door track brackets screw through the jamb down into the studs.

I am figuring this cannot possibly be a sound approach with the steel framing. Even if I use a wood 2x6 for the jamb, at some point the load path is going to go into the flange of the studs, which is somewhat thin. The long Tek screws get several inches of thread in wood.

Note this is also a high wind zone. 140-150 mph.

Maybe I am not coming up with the correct search terms, but I have been looking online the past few days and finding no information.

THANKS!

 

[tjdux]

Curious why you want to do it with metal if you already know how to do t with wood?

I have only seen those metal studs used in non load bearing walls but they are not common here where i live. Mosly just in office/hospital partition walls that dont hold anything more than drywall.

You may have to do the door with actual wood for support then tranition to the metal studs.

Hooefully someone more familiar with the metal can chime in as im no expert.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[BoostedOne]

Im just getting tired of working with wood. Honestly, i hate wood. There are guys who work with wood as a hobby, not me.

Its kind of nice not having crowns, twists, splits, etc to deal with.

The stuff they sell at Home Depot and Lowes is for non-load bearing. They have stuff though thats meant to be load bearing. Theres 2x6, 2x8, 2x12, etc, up to 12 gauge thickness.

 

[TommyK]

Here's the basics. https://www.familyhandyman.com/carpentry/using-steel-studs/view-all/

For a normal pre-hung wood door opening you turn the metal jack studs so that the flat part faces the opening and then screw a wood 2x to it.

A garage door opening wood probably need real c channel to meet wind load requirements.

 

[kgordon]

To do something with a door, especially a larger roll up door you would use similar framing techniques but use a heavier gauge than they stock. A building supply house should have it. Stock stuff at the big box is 20 gauge, you want something more like 16 gauge, you will need self drilling screws to install and hang sheetrock.

 

[rburke65]

Well the OP said 'not a roll up door'.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

Check local codes? You may have to use carriage bolts through the framing all the way to the pad the door attaches to. They may dictate how many and what size. The lags that come with the door are 1 5/8" long so they won't go into the metal studs. Just thinking out loud

 

[Playwme]

I use a fine thread Self drilling Tek screw. Most of mine is around 12-16 gauge, with main posts a bit thicker.

If in doubt, get more screws out.

 

[readhead]

This kind of framing is common in commercial construction. The use of heavier studs at the door jambs will probably be necessary. They would usually be stacked and stitch welded after they are up. The tracks for doors installed on metal are different and you should talk to the door supplier and make sure you understand the system. On metal buildings the door jambs are usually a single 3x8 C member and the tracks will be either bolted or use large teks.

 

[BoostedOne]

Thanks guys. That may be what I am missing. I was assuming the track brackets and so forth would be the same as what I did on my wood framed project. But now that you mention it, I see no reason why it couldnt possibly be a continuous bracket that allowed for several screws rather than only a handful up each jamb.

I'll give Amarr a ring when I get a chance and see if they have a track designed for metal framed..

I do have the code book. Im using the "AISI Prescriptive Method" book. It just doesnt go into how to attach the garage door, as thats more of a topic for the garage door manufacturer. Im still working through it but yeah, I was assuming 16 gauge studs would be the minimum.

 

[readhead]

16 ga is actually 18 ga in stud speak. They run lighter than sheet metal .

 

[rustyjames]

Redhead, your post is confusing, 16 gauge is thicker material than 18 gauge, they're not the same. Then comes 14 and 12 gauge. Lower the gauge number, thicker the material is.

 

[readhead]

A 16 ga stud is 18 ga in sheet metal talk. A 16 ga stud is .050 not .0625.

 

[BoostedOne]

Well, I got my answer. Amarr doors responded with the following link.

http://www.amarr.com/commercial/collection_downloads/2042

It appears you put large angle iron on the build up metal studs, then the track has several holes that attach to the angle iron using Tek screws. Seems reasonable enough.

 

[Zeke]

We always used wood bucks at any openings. Allows for the attachment of various components like moldings. It really opens up the options.

 

[BoostedOne]

Yep, I think the bucks are more useful on interior openings.

Years ago when I was looking at building a house I remember asking how they attach trim to the metal framed inner walls, he said "Liquid nails".

Sounds kinda lousy, but on the other hand, I guess it works just the same. Its not like people change their trim every 5 years.

 

[rustyjames]

There's self drill screws available for trim to metal studs, they have a very small head.