Workshop 88
- Thread starter Mr. 360
- Start date
rmalkow2
Well-known member
Thanks for the comment! I think I have it under control now... This morning I went out and found it had been back and ripped up a bunch more insulation. I collected what was still useable and chucked the rest. I heard it in the rafters so I grabbed my 2x4 and gave some good stout shoves into any "nest zones" I could see. I hit his new home and sent him flying out the opening in the soffit. I then quickly made these hardboard fillers (1 per side), to last until summer. The gaps are pretty tight and I don't think it would like chewing the stuff, but I'll be monitoring it for sure. Note, the gap was created when I removed the old soffit when I stripped the old roof. I should have realized the gap and patched it then.
I also got the floor almost 100% dried out! and started on my wainscoting. Just running a series of 2x3's in between the studs, then attaching top and bottom. Will feel nice to start getting some finished walls in here soon. Also on the to do list is more cupboards. My new sliding mitre saw is an absolute joy, been using it any chance I get.
You can see I re-used a bunch of the pink insulation on the end there, used to be in the opposite corner. All in all, pretty good day all things considered.
I still haven't killed that squirrel yet.......
Wishing you good luck on getting that squirrel but they are smart and fast learners so be on the look out for other small access openings. Now that he/she knows about the benefits of indoor living just blocking one hole may not deter the effort to move in. While the old reliable pellet gun is maybe the best fun another efficient way to get em is something I've used with chipmunks in the garage. Use a 5 gallon bucket, fill half way with water, pour enough sunflower seeds in to thickly cover the surface. They float and will hide all water. Critter jumps in for some irresistible food and drowns. This may be hard to do if weather persists below freezing but if you can keep the water from freezing inside the garage its a fast and quiet way to get rid of the problem.
Thanks ihrescue, I really enjoyed bringing that hatchet back into service. There's always something nice about rejuvenating an old tool instead of buying something new.
Rmalkow2, that's absolutely true. My concern is that it will keep looking for a way in, ripping up the patches in the process. So far I am checking it morning and night, and I have some warfarin up in the eaves near its old nest area. I like the bucket idea, my parents used to use a similar method on their farm when I was a kid (except without the seeds, that sounds even better). As you mentioned though, keeping it from freezing would be a challenge, since the garage dips well below freezing when I'm not in there heating it. I've given the building a pretty thorough inspection now, looking for access points. Other than the 2 big ones I patched, I haven't found any squirrel size holes, but I think a mouse could squeeze through the bottom corners of the roll up, so I will look into sealing that up.
Rmalkow2, that's absolutely true. My concern is that it will keep looking for a way in, ripping up the patches in the process. So far I am checking it morning and night, and I have some warfarin up in the eaves near its old nest area. I like the bucket idea, my parents used to use a similar method on their farm when I was a kid (except without the seeds, that sounds even better). As you mentioned though, keeping it from freezing would be a challenge, since the garage dips well below freezing when I'm not in there heating it. I've given the building a pretty thorough inspection now, looking for access points. Other than the 2 big ones I patched, I haven't found any squirrel size holes, but I think a mouse could squeeze through the bottom corners of the roll up, so I will look into sealing that up.
Small Update, got some of the wainscoting boards put up. Some are dirtier than others and get a bit of a cleaning with a stiff bristle brush. otherwise, I'm still debating whether to go a khaki colour on the whole wainscoting or stain it a deep brown colour, like rich old wood.
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In other news, I bought 2 sheets of 4x8 chipboard for the rest of the cupboards, and had Home Depot rip them down into 12"x8' pieces. Much easier to carry home this way, and was free.
In any case, look for changes to be happening in here over the next while. I've got cupboard material, wainscoting material, peg-board, insulation, etc etc. All I need now is that all elusive element; time.
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In other news, I bought 2 sheets of 4x8 chipboard for the rest of the cupboards, and had Home Depot rip them down into 12"x8' pieces. Much easier to carry home this way, and was free.
In any case, look for changes to be happening in here over the next while. I've got cupboard material, wainscoting material, peg-board, insulation, etc etc. All I need now is that all elusive element; time.
patent pending
Well-known member
Wainscoting is looking good. It will feel like a whole new space when you get your walls covered! I like the idea of leaving it as it or staining to keep the wood look.
Thanks! I'm looking forward to getting the walls sealed up and cupboards in place. Once that's done it should be a much nicer space to work in.
I think I'm with you on the wood, I am planning dark charcoal grey for all the pegboard, and just think a dark stained wood would go well with it. Kind of rich and dark like an old shop with years of motor oil stains, etc. All the wainscoting so far is from hardwood skids, so it has a nicer grain and is tougher stuff. I just think it looks better than softwood.
Aside from the painting, I'd like to get as much of this stuff sealed up as I can over the next month so I can finally put stuff away and regain some floor space.
Sunbimmer
Well-known member
Love that old look gives it a lot of character, I love tinbender 66's pedestrian garage too.
Funny you should mention. Tinbender's garage is what gave me the idea to use reclaimed wood. I loved how it added so much character. Mine is only going up as high as this though, to make room for the peg-board, but it should look nice and rustic.
I've been following for awhile, but this is my first comment. I really like your build. I love the use of mostly found products.
Since you want the old oil stained look, have you thought about using old oil for your stain? We used this technique on the farm when I was a kid for fencing.
Since you want the old oil stained look, have you thought about using old oil for your stain? We used this technique on the farm when I was a kid for fencing.
Great idea, that's actually the main reason I've saved oil from the car for years. Used it growing up on my parents' farm for sheds and such. Not at all enviro-friendly but it kept the porcupines away and the sheds didn't rot.
I did think about it for inside, but figured that since I weld, and have a woodstove, it may not be the most flame retardant option (also for resale value). that being said, If I ever own a farm, you can bet this will be my chosen method for out-buildings and fences. Thanks for the comment!
Sunbimmer
Well-known member
I like how gricegear stained the wood for the sliding door in his gas station build.
Copied page 5 link of his build thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163787&page=5
Copied page 5 link of his build thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163787&page=5
Been a busy week, haven't had much time in the workshop. I did pop out last night to gather some plaster sanding supplies and lo, I was greeted with piles of insulation strewn about. The stinkin rat managed to eat through (some of you thinking "i knew it") the barriers I had put up. the holes on each side were big enough to toss a golf ball through, so I patched them up with wood and then stuck a billion screws around the chewable edges, and then sprayed it with Rust check coat and protect undercoating (nasty tasting grease has helped remove pests on the farm... spraying down the inside of a steel outhouse roof has prevented large spiders from nesting for several years now). I set out some mouse traps i had on hand, with little regard for how inhumane that might be. I also set out rat poison around the entrances and have the air rifle at the ready in there. I pulled a large amount of insulation from one of my eaves bays. It had really built its home up
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I recently read that the pink stuff is a favourite amongst rodents. This is interesting, seeing as how they didn't touch the brown stuff I bought.
Anyone have any other tips for killing squirrels? aside from $$$ pest control services. I might have to try the suggested cement board trick, that sounds like a good solution.
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I recently read that the pink stuff is a favourite amongst rodents. This is interesting, seeing as how they didn't touch the brown stuff I bought.
Anyone have any other tips for killing squirrels? aside from $$$ pest control services. I might have to try the suggested cement board trick, that sounds like a good solution.
Had some time over the weekend to start into a few of the pressing tasks that have been building up for a while. I continued my wainscoting all the way over to just past the end of my cupboards (about 8' so far), so that sucked the pile of pallet wood on my floor down a bit.
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I then used a few scrap pieces of wood to mock up the cap rail and 6" band that goes around all the outlets, and started mounting the pegboard supports to the wall. I ran a support along the bottom, middle, and top of the pegboard, with the provision along the top for another piece of 6" trim (mainly because my sheets of pegboard weren't big enough to go to the ceiling.
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To mount the pegboard, I used small flat headed screws and cup washers to make it look a little more purposeful. Note that the grey colour is the way they came, I would like to paint the pegboard a darker grey.
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I plan on building a shelf that will hang from the pegboard right along the back of the door track, since I can't really hang much up there anyways. Most of what's hung on the boards now will get re-assigned once all my boards are up. this area will be for axes, crowbars, and other long handled tools. As a side note, I plan on ditching the current rail hanger and lagging the rail straight across into the stud, using an appropriate spacer of course. This should help gain me a little more room and not break the flow so much.
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Having stripped the pegboard above the workbench, I took them both back down (they were only temporarily there anyways). I will be building cupboards across that region with peg board below.
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I stripped the wall to the side of the main bench as well, and hung a cleat for one of my new cupboards, and set about building it. I love how fast I can build these now with my new sliding mitre saw. I used to have to clamp a guide and use my circular, so I'm happy about this. I haven't tried yet but I could even dado the joints to add some strength (the saw has a depth-stop for doing dado cuts).
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That's where I'm at now. I only had time to just get a few screws into the cupboard to hold it up, so I have yet to finish hanging it before I fill it. I plan to have a shelf in the middle of this guy too. Hoping to continue the cupboards along that wall this week and get the place tidied up more. It's nice now that the weather is being a little more co-operative and holding around the freezing mark, makes working more comfortable. The added hour of daylight isn't bad either. Spring, here I come.
In other news, I recently acquired a nice Stanley 8Gal Shop Vac from a good friend when he upgraded. So far I had been putting my wife's upright vacuum through tasks no domestic hoover should face, so Jay, thanks a bunch, this guy will really help out. Also, I'm a fan of the design of it, since it's nice and compact, being a bit taller than it is wide. This should help with storage, etc. I also dig the stainless canister.
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I then used a few scrap pieces of wood to mock up the cap rail and 6" band that goes around all the outlets, and started mounting the pegboard supports to the wall. I ran a support along the bottom, middle, and top of the pegboard, with the provision along the top for another piece of 6" trim (mainly because my sheets of pegboard weren't big enough to go to the ceiling.
View media item 38596
To mount the pegboard, I used small flat headed screws and cup washers to make it look a little more purposeful. Note that the grey colour is the way they came, I would like to paint the pegboard a darker grey.
View media item 38597
I plan on building a shelf that will hang from the pegboard right along the back of the door track, since I can't really hang much up there anyways. Most of what's hung on the boards now will get re-assigned once all my boards are up. this area will be for axes, crowbars, and other long handled tools. As a side note, I plan on ditching the current rail hanger and lagging the rail straight across into the stud, using an appropriate spacer of course. This should help gain me a little more room and not break the flow so much.
View media item 38598
Having stripped the pegboard above the workbench, I took them both back down (they were only temporarily there anyways). I will be building cupboards across that region with peg board below.
View media item 38599
I stripped the wall to the side of the main bench as well, and hung a cleat for one of my new cupboards, and set about building it. I love how fast I can build these now with my new sliding mitre saw. I used to have to clamp a guide and use my circular, so I'm happy about this. I haven't tried yet but I could even dado the joints to add some strength (the saw has a depth-stop for doing dado cuts).
View media item 38600
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That's where I'm at now. I only had time to just get a few screws into the cupboard to hold it up, so I have yet to finish hanging it before I fill it. I plan to have a shelf in the middle of this guy too. Hoping to continue the cupboards along that wall this week and get the place tidied up more. It's nice now that the weather is being a little more co-operative and holding around the freezing mark, makes working more comfortable. The added hour of daylight isn't bad either. Spring, here I come.
In other news, I recently acquired a nice Stanley 8Gal Shop Vac from a good friend when he upgraded. So far I had been putting my wife's upright vacuum through tasks no domestic hoover should face, so Jay, thanks a bunch, this guy will really help out. Also, I'm a fan of the design of it, since it's nice and compact, being a bit taller than it is wide. This should help with storage, etc. I also dig the stainless canister.
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dubber
Well-known member
Nice Vac I've got one verrrry similar. 
A little bit of progress last night, just finishing up the loose ends of the cupboard I hung the other day. Got the screws all in and a shelf installed, so I loaded it up with stuff that was cluttering my main bench (both inside and on top). Hoping to start getting the next cupboards up over the next week or so.
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HSpencer
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looking real good. I really like the gray pegboard against the wood slats. The storage shelf looks great as well. Things are shaping up well in there!!
Best Regards
Herb
Best Regards
Herb
Thanks Herb, I'm hoping to get some more cupboards built out so I can round of the upper storage asap. at some point I'll make doors to cover them all but for now they'll just be open.
I'm liking the pegboard-wood combo too, hopefully it'll look good once it gets all the way around and painted.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Just checking in again Eric, great progress and its looking great.
Built another cupboard over the weekend. Progress has been a little slow because house projects always take precedence, but at least it's been steady. I only have about half my cupboards in so far, but I have to say, what a difference! If you have a small garage like I do, I think this is the solution, build cupboards! They really make a difference in storage and usable floor space. Even as they are now they're helping greatly, but I still have to do a final sort-purge once all my cupboards are in.
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To get this up I had to re-route the current wires for the lightswitch by the door. they used to run on the wall and the cupboard would have hit them, so I drilled through the top-plate and went down. I do plan on ditching the current switch setup, which uses 2 switches for interior lights and 1 switch for exterior, and consolidating down to the main switches by the door (1 for interior, 1 for exterior).
Next on the docket in here I think will be the main cupboard across the back wall. This will be about 20" deep instead of the typical 12", so I can hold more bulky items. Someday, cupboard doors... someday.
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My idea for the future cupboard doors is to use peg-board for the insert 'panel.' This should allow my to hang things like cutoff disc's and saw blades on the back sides of the doors, and to hang labels on the fronts as to what's inside. I was thinking of creating "divisions" for sorting tools, such as the 'Power Division' for electrical, 'Plumbing Division,' 'Precision Division' for fine-work tools, 'Powercast Division' for old cast aluminum tools, 'Persuasion Division' for hammers and crowbars, etc etc. Anyways, that's a ways down the road yet. That's a finishing touch.
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To get this up I had to re-route the current wires for the lightswitch by the door. they used to run on the wall and the cupboard would have hit them, so I drilled through the top-plate and went down. I do plan on ditching the current switch setup, which uses 2 switches for interior lights and 1 switch for exterior, and consolidating down to the main switches by the door (1 for interior, 1 for exterior).
Next on the docket in here I think will be the main cupboard across the back wall. This will be about 20" deep instead of the typical 12", so I can hold more bulky items. Someday, cupboard doors... someday.
View media item 39054
My idea for the future cupboard doors is to use peg-board for the insert 'panel.' This should allow my to hang things like cutoff disc's and saw blades on the back sides of the doors, and to hang labels on the fronts as to what's inside. I was thinking of creating "divisions" for sorting tools, such as the 'Power Division' for electrical, 'Plumbing Division,' 'Precision Division' for fine-work tools, 'Powercast Division' for old cast aluminum tools, 'Persuasion Division' for hammers and crowbars, etc etc. Anyways, that's a ways down the road yet. That's a finishing touch.
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rmalkow2
Well-known member
The cupboard progress is looking good. I like the pegboard idea on the inside of each door. And your flair for the artistic again comes thru with the idea of labeling each door. Have you given thought of re-purposing some old existing cabinet door fronts by adding on the inside pegboard and then painting to your color scheme? I'm not sure if your cabinet sizes are standard or custom dimensions.
Looking good! A place for everything is the key to an organized shop. I don't have the first, so be default I don't have the second. Good on you.
I like the idea of using peg board as the door panels, but I would wonder how much dust would get through them. The main purpose of having closed off cabinet in a shop, in my opinion, would be to keep all the airborne **** that happens in the shop off the stuff in the cabs, I wonder if the peg board would be enough to block out all the floating swarf. Just a thought.
I like the idea of using peg board as the door panels, but I would wonder how much dust would get through them. The main purpose of having closed off cabinet in a shop, in my opinion, would be to keep all the airborne **** that happens in the shop off the stuff in the cabs, I wonder if the peg board would be enough to block out all the floating swarf. Just a thought.
Thanks for the comments guys.
Rmalkow2, I had the thought of repurposing like you mentioned, even from when I first started the build (some might recall I picked up some cupboards from the trash). However I found that the sizes wouldn't totally maximize the usable vertical space, so I've gone with making my own. the doors will all have to be a custom size.. which ended up hampering the use of existing doors. my doors will probably be of simple construction though, think 1x3 picture frame style, with peg-board insert.
Todd, you raise a good point. I hadn't considered the dust aspect. What I might do is try it out for a while and if it proves to be too dusty inside, i'll either have to come up with a secondary barrier or just live with it. I did also just consider that if I hang things on the inside, the back of the hooks will be sticking through the front face... might look odd. anyways, mere details at this point.
Rmalkow2, I had the thought of repurposing like you mentioned, even from when I first started the build (some might recall I picked up some cupboards from the trash). However I found that the sizes wouldn't totally maximize the usable vertical space, so I've gone with making my own. the doors will all have to be a custom size.. which ended up hampering the use of existing doors. my doors will probably be of simple construction though, think 1x3 picture frame style, with peg-board insert.
Todd, you raise a good point. I hadn't considered the dust aspect. What I might do is try it out for a while and if it proves to be too dusty inside, i'll either have to come up with a secondary barrier or just live with it. I did also just consider that if I hang things on the inside, the back of the hooks will be sticking through the front face... might look odd. anyways, mere details at this point.
rmalkow2
Well-known member
Well in that case for those custom size door fronts I still see potential re-purposing options. Since you've been known for your good eye for free materials keep an eye out for some thin material to use as that initial door front/barrier for dust with the pegboard spaced behind it. Maybe some sheet aluminum or steel that's thin. The metal front paneled look could be really cool.
captain14
Well-known member
Eric,
Got a question about your wall cabinet design. Is it just a box of OSB 12x 24 with a 2x4 in front and looks like a 1x2 on the bottom creating a lip for the bottom to sit on? And 2 ledger boards to mount it to the wall? Are you putting the insulation back of the cabinet after it is hung?
Thanks and continue posting your work. We enjoy reading it.
Have you tried any cooking on the Woodstove yet?
Got a question about your wall cabinet design. Is it just a box of OSB 12x 24 with a 2x4 in front and looks like a 1x2 on the bottom creating a lip for the bottom to sit on? And 2 ledger boards to mount it to the wall? Are you putting the insulation back of the cabinet after it is hung?
Thanks and continue posting your work. We enjoy reading it.
Have you tried any cooking on the Woodstove yet?
You're probably right, I'm sure I'll find something I can re-use. Galvanized duct-work or thin aluminum sheeting. I think the aluminum might look good, and would be easily workable and lightweight.
I think I follow here. Who know's, maybe I'll have so much peg board on the rest of the walls I won't even need it in the cupboards haha. The double walled idea is definitely something worth pursuing if I go the peg board route.
The cabinets so far have been a basic OSB box design. it started with what I had on hand, and I more or less carried that through for these recent cupboards. the sides and top are 7/16" OSB, sliced into 12" pcs. I bought 2 4x8 sheets-worth of it so I'll only have about $16 into all the cupboards. The bottoms of these more recent cupboards are 5/8 OSB. I got several 12"x8' pieces off my dad when he did a project that only needed 1 piece.
Due to the rather poor inherent strength of thin OSB, I used a 2x3 along the inside of the top and bottom, and then used a small 1x2 on the sides to capture the bottom. The uprights are screwed into the 2x3 that runs the length of the top at 12" from the wall. They help to counter any sag, and act as a mount point for doors. Lastly, I mount a 1x4 along the wall to act as a cleat for the cupboards to sit on. this also is the top support for the pegboard.
As for the woodstove, aside from marshmallows and hot chocolate, it hasn't had much cooking duty. Reason being is my wife is a terrific cook (Bam, brownie points) and she is always making all kinds of great food/baked goods. With the weather warming up, this stove will probably only be in here another month or so to take the chill off, but only after I make a heat shield for that cupboard above it. Next years design will have to be a little different. Hoping to make it more efficient by then, it was a little too smokey this year for my liking.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
I realy like your signage idea to delineate your different storage areas as it adds a neat personal touch. You may have to consider it stolen..
You may have to consider it stolen..
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polexican23
Banned
Any reason you didnt insulate behind the cabinet or the pegboard?
Thanks! go for it. If you do it, let me know how it goes.
Oh, well behind any pegboard and cupboards I've put up so far I've insulated, but there are other parts of the wall I haven't gotten to yet. I still have a bag of insulation in the rafters for that task. but for sure, everything on the walls is getting insulated.
Saturday was one of those days you can feel spring shoving winter aside and assuming control. It was cool outside, but it had this feeling of determination about it. With that in mind, I set about tackling the largest of my proposed cupboard spaces. Weighing in at a whopping 41 cubic feet, This plan would gain me nearly double the cupboard space I currently have (bringing my total to just shy of 100 cubic feet so far).
I began by disconnecting the main bench light, and moving it out 18" or so to make room for the extra deep cupboard. Since I plan on re-lighting the place soon anyways there was no real care taken in the mounting process, I just hung it from some bits of steel spanning the trusses.
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The next step was mounting the 1x3 cleat on the wall, and matching it up on both ends to meet the side cupboards. I did fill in that missing piece of insulation after taking the picture.
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In order to make the 109" long cupboard, I had to add 13" to the length of an 8' piece of chipboard. All I had on hand was some 5/8" plywood, so that became part of the setup. The whole deal was built in a largely similar fashion to my existing cupboards, only without the end pieces so that the cupboard 'wraps around,' in a sense. The verticals you see along the back were installed to help the cupboard keep it's shape while being installed. I then stapled some large cardboard sheets to the back to keep things from falling out, and called my wife in to help me install it.
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I'll keep the gory details brief here, but there was as much frustration as there was laughing (at the situation mostly). I'm sure anyone with a crowded single car garage can understand the notion of trying to swing a 9' cupboard around inside the place and slot it exactly into it's home. It's kind of like when you're playing tetris and you're down to your last couple spaces, it gets tense. Not to mention the thing weighs just slightly more than the moon.
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Anyways, it's up, and securely moored to the wall and neighbouring cupboards. You'll note the centre section is only 12" between the uprights, this is likely going to be open and have some shelves in it for frequently used items or display or something, not totally sure yet.
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I have yet to install any shelves in it, So I'll try to get that done before filling it. This is going to be more for bulky items that won't fit i'm my other slim cupboards. I am liking the fact that the place now looks a lot more like my early sketches. It's feeling more 'me' all the time.
As a side note, I picked up a gallon of mistint paint at Lowes for $4, and decided that this is the way to buy paint. This is their pro series primer-paint, and though the colour is a little light, I couldn't refuse. What I may do is get them to mix up one of those small quarts or even sample size ones of a dark dark gray, basically black, then mix it to my liking. I'll still come out ahead on the price.
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I began by disconnecting the main bench light, and moving it out 18" or so to make room for the extra deep cupboard. Since I plan on re-lighting the place soon anyways there was no real care taken in the mounting process, I just hung it from some bits of steel spanning the trusses.
View media item 39411
The next step was mounting the 1x3 cleat on the wall, and matching it up on both ends to meet the side cupboards. I did fill in that missing piece of insulation after taking the picture.
View media item 39412
In order to make the 109" long cupboard, I had to add 13" to the length of an 8' piece of chipboard. All I had on hand was some 5/8" plywood, so that became part of the setup. The whole deal was built in a largely similar fashion to my existing cupboards, only without the end pieces so that the cupboard 'wraps around,' in a sense. The verticals you see along the back were installed to help the cupboard keep it's shape while being installed. I then stapled some large cardboard sheets to the back to keep things from falling out, and called my wife in to help me install it.
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I'll keep the gory details brief here, but there was as much frustration as there was laughing (at the situation mostly). I'm sure anyone with a crowded single car garage can understand the notion of trying to swing a 9' cupboard around inside the place and slot it exactly into it's home. It's kind of like when you're playing tetris and you're down to your last couple spaces, it gets tense. Not to mention the thing weighs just slightly more than the moon.
View media item 39415
Anyways, it's up, and securely moored to the wall and neighbouring cupboards. You'll note the centre section is only 12" between the uprights, this is likely going to be open and have some shelves in it for frequently used items or display or something, not totally sure yet.
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I have yet to install any shelves in it, So I'll try to get that done before filling it. This is going to be more for bulky items that won't fit i'm my other slim cupboards. I am liking the fact that the place now looks a lot more like my early sketches. It's feeling more 'me' all the time.
As a side note, I picked up a gallon of mistint paint at Lowes for $4, and decided that this is the way to buy paint. This is their pro series primer-paint, and though the colour is a little light, I couldn't refuse. What I may do is get them to mix up one of those small quarts or even sample size ones of a dark dark gray, basically black, then mix it to my liking. I'll still come out ahead on the price.
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JustinS
Well-known member
Your space is coming together, keep up the good work!
Thanks very much, this nice spring-weather has been helping, and the extra hour and a bit of daylight really makes a difference. I can hopefully keep up the momentum and get stuff done quickly. It'll be nice when I have all the major construction (cupboards, peg-board, wainscoting) done so I can actually build stuff and do projects in here, rather than always just working on the garage itself. Not that that's a bad thing.