Workshop addition...wide pine plank flooring...thoughts?

[Teach]

I'm planning a workshop addition to the garage. It will be supported by 6" PT posts on concrete piers, but other than that will be stick-built (joist hangers tied into the posts). The floor will be framed with either (PT) 2x10s 12" on center or 2x12s 16" on center.

Rather than just doing one or two layers of plywood for the floor, I want to do one layer of (PT) plywood and then wide pine tongue and groove plank flooring on top. It will be a workshop so I know it will get gouged over time, so I won't go crazy spending big $ on top grade lumber. I will probably oil it for appearance and protection....possibly lightly stained first.

Should I do a layer of the foam(ish) material that they put under floating laminate flooring under the pine? It won't be floating, but I wondered if that will help with squeaking (although yes, I know if it installed properly it shouldn't squeak).

Has anyone done this...even in a house? I welcome both pictures and advice.

Thanks in advance.

 

[stricht8]

You could just use rosin paper for the squeaking. Why are you worried about squeaking on a workshop floor? My garage has wide plank flooring but it is pretty old, around 150 years. It is not treated or anything, just sweep it clean. You could see pics at www.stricht8garage.shutterfly.com

 

[PassnThru]

Actually, since you mentioned laminate flooring - I'm wondering why you don't just do laminate flooring? If you are looking for a durable surface then laminate would do well - if you are looking more for a "cool" surface then wood would obviously be better. Just don't forget that you can replace that entire laminate floor fairly cheaply when it gets damaged or you get tired of it. I'm assuming that this is just a shop and no cars will be in there.

 

[Teach]

The garage looks like an old carriage house, and my area is full of old barns, so I want the look of an old barn floor with the wide planks.

stricht8: Nice fab on that door repair. Cool shop, too.

 

[billfish111]

I like 1 1/8" t&g plywood for a subfloor. I also put a few deck screws in it to stop any sqeeking. Then you can put what ever you want on top of it. Good luck with the addition, Bill.

 

[djjsr]

Your idea of using 2x10's on 12" centers will work well. I built a deck like that and it was VERY solid.

 

[Teach]

Use rosin paper. Using wide plank flooring .... keep in mind this will expand and contract across the grain depending on temp and humidity. The wider the board or plank, the worse it will be. Not to mention the cupping that can occur. I watched an episode of this old house and Tom Silva addressed this very issue. In the end, he used rope caulked between wide pine flooring. Best of luck.

Yes. The wide (some as wide as 22") board floors in our 1790 home have gaps between them for the expansion and contraction that took place long before central heating.

I will use tongue and groove planks which should help with cupping, will leave a small gap between each (but with tongues still in grooves) and the workshop will be insulated and heated which should minimize the expansion and contraction.

 

[stricht8]

Teach, 1790 home! Now I understand the interest in wide plank pine floors. Those boards came from tremendous pine trees which existed when this country was first settled. Due to the width of the trees and therefore the the years of compression of the rings, and wood from these trees is denser than second or third growth trees. Pine harvested from these first growth trees is therefore harder and more rot resistant. These old boards when salvaged and sold can command a pretty penny. They are practically considered an exotic wood.
Thanks for the compliments on my garage and car repair. The garage/barn is an 1850s addition to an 1810 house. These old homes are so interesting.