Workshop electrical planning

[FarmerSid]

Hey all! Couple questions for ya's. My 36'X40' shop is going to be insulated this weekend so I need some last minute advice on what I should prewire for before insulating. What I have done now is wiring for 28 flourescent lights controlled by 3 switches, receptilcles above each 10'X10' door for regular opener, recepticles above each 10'X10' door on the wall for jackshaft openers (future), 3 recepticles in the ceiling for cord reels, 2 boxes for 2 cieling fans, wiring to hang flourescent lights on the wall beside hoist, twelve 20A duplex recepticles 6 ft apart on the walls by the work benches, 2 welding plugs on opposite sides of the shop, outside light between 10ft doors and above man door leading outback, prewired for lights to be installed under cabinets that will be hung above work benches for tack lighting.

Is there any other suggestions you might have that I have not thought of? Appreciate your help.

Sid

 

[NSXSOON]

Don't forget a 220 line for a lift and another for a compressor.

 

[rodnok1]

Wiring for light(s) in attic area if the ceiling will be covered, wiring for exhaust fan(s) both in main area and attic/compressor wiring/phone/cable/intercom wiring/outside plugs at least one per wall(never can have enough outside plugs either)/Are you heating or cooling with electric?/
I would also run a conduit from fuse box to attic for future wiring additions.

 

[Junkman]

one box that is for a night light.... you don't need much, but occasionally you might want to just run in for one item, and if you have one that is a passive inferred, it will come on as soon as you enter. Also great for finding your way around the shop if you also include a "emergency light" on the ceiling for power outages. Gets you out of the shop without banging yourself into everything in the dark....

 

[Steve in Mi]

You have received some great suggestions already and the only thing I would add is some form of three-way lighting between the house and shop.

 

[FarmerSid]

Thanks for the replies. I must have forgotten to mention I have a lift installed and wired up. The compressor plug is in as well. I installed in floor heating tube (PEX) in the slab when it was poured but have yet to decide how to heat it. I have thought about adding a three way switch between the house and shop but it is about 150' away and would need like #10 wire to run it and with the prices of copper wire. Might still do it but I can pull it later as everything is in big O. Attached is a picture of what it looks like from the outside.

Cheers!

Sid

 

[Steve in Mi]

I have thought about adding a three way switch between the house and shop but it is about 150' away and would need like #10 wire to run it and with the prices of copper wire. Might still do it but I can pull it later as everything is in big O. Sid

Not sure why you are talking #10 wire (only need enough light to see your way not lite the neighborhood). Then too you only need to run power wire from one yard light to either the shop or the house, whichever is the shorter run, and low voltage signal wire between the two buildings. I used underground phone wire for the signal to a 12 Volt impulse relay/switch that opens or closes the eletrical ckt. for the yard light. Door bell style momentary switches at each of the doors to light the path. Good idea to make provision for it - for if & when the price of copper comes down. In any case the first time you trip over something left in the path between the two buildings you'll be pulling wire for it no matter what the cost.

BTW, that is one nice looking shop!

 

[hawkeye2]

I added a 220 V 50A plug to the front of my shop for welding, or whatever else may come up.

 

[markb1]

Don't forget the switched plug in eaves for X-mas lights.

 

[the dude]

security wiring for the doors, motion sensor, siren, etc. and a couple cat5 lines into the house for intercom/security/lan

I just picked up my security system for the garage. brain is in the attic of the garage with the control panel in the house and the siren is in the eave, all pre-wired.

 

[Gummi Bear]

Make sure that at least one of those welding plugs is located near a door, so you can weld on a trailer or something that is difficult to pull into the shop, but can get it near the door.

 

[Steve in Mi]

Door bells, door bells, we mustn't forget doorbells. That is if you want them now is a good time to provide the wire. There are times I prefer not to be walked in on/disturbed for _____________ (insert reason here) so I wired all six doors to ring a good size 18V doorbell that can be heard throughout the shop including upstairs if a noisy machine isn't running. For this, again, I used the typical 4 conductor phone wire, which BTW I also used for speaker wire drops and a good deal of the security wiring. If you have a Boom Box pushing a lot of watts (I don't), there are better choices for wire. $35. for a 600 foot box IIRC and the underground 6 conductor sheilded phone wire for signal wire between the house and shop maybe 4-5X more per box. I have 2 separate phone lines at 3 locations (in 1981 - what's a cell phone), I assume phones have been considered already.

 

[mjmbme]

"3 recepticles in the ceiling for cord reels, 2 boxes for 2 cieling fans, "

I thought of the same thing in my garage, but ended up putting the outlets for the cord reels on the walls at about shoulder height.

Why?

Drop cords + ceiling fans? Not really that good together.

The pull cords are still up high enough they dont drag on things and they dont get caught in the fans either.

Just my .02
Mark

 

[thefairlaneman]

Maybe a gable fan that works on a thermostat with a separate switch to cut it off if needed........cost aprox 75 bucks. Gas fumes can be dangerious!