Workshop Garage build - 26X26

[CheezeCurdler]

Hello all, thought after lerking for a while and preparing the plans for my build, I figured I should share what I have so far and see what the hive mind might say.

I plan to use this space as my primary workshop year round (Im in Southern Ontario), I do woodworking full time and plan to be in there in the dead of winter. Here is my list of build options so far

26x26 foot
2x6 Wall construction
14.9 foot height(restricted by local codes)
Full foundation with footings (4 feet down)
Fully insulated floating slab
Hydronic radiant heat(Electric heater 13kw?)
16 inch stem wall above grade
12x8 foot door R16 Insulation

Now Ive seen some people pour a monolithic slab and do the in floor heating, but I just cant see how that is efficient since you will be heating so much more concrete. Not to mention insulation that pad would be difficult. Perhaps Im missing something on this?

I plan on building this garage myself, So im learning as I go. Although I try to research as much as I can, sometimes ill miss things. This is the main reason Im here. I like to learn the right way to do things before I waste a bunch of time and money. I would like to hear any thoughts on how to go about my build or any suggestions that could benefit me. Thanks for looking!

Cheeze--

 

[gnpenning]

With radiant heat you need a good thermo break around all surfaces and under the pad as you mentioned. No sense in heating the great outdoors. Have you looked at ICF's? The current home I'm in I used ICF's and will do it again for the next one. They will give you a thermo break all the way around and they are very easy to work with. Just giant Lego blocks. I did all my walls with it you don't get any air movement thru the walls, great sound deadening, even temps, compliments radiant heat very well. Your foundation if done right under the garage door, the door will come down on the block and give you a double thermo break, also at your man door.

They go up very fast and no special tools needed. Build your door and window headers before starting and the walls will go up very fast. Make your dimensions work with the block and it will be even faster. You can do the foundation and walls in one pour if you want.

Do you plan to run power or dust collection under the slab?

What about water and drain?

BTW welcome.

 

[CheezeCurdler]

I just took a look at the ICF. I really like the fact that it has good sound insulation. I will be running machinery that does send off a fair bit of noise at times. Im having a hard time picturing what you mean about the double thermo break under the door?

I do plan to run the main power under the floor to the panel, never really thought to have the dust collection under the slab.. It does make a lot of sense to do it this way since I plan on building a Mech. room to house the dust collection, air compressor, and Electrical panel ect.

Looks like I need to do a bunch more research on the ICF alone. Many questions now. Installing electrical is one of them, since there are no traditional walls.

I would love to put water and drainage, ive been avoiding the whole thing because I thought it would be a headache to get all approved. Its my understanding that I need to tap into the sewer system which involves tearing up my drive way. Unless I can tap into my house drainage somehow..

Cheeze--

 

[DeadSock]

Have you considered a basement or crawl space?
Gives a location for utilities (including DC, compressor, boiler, etc) and easy underfloor routing.
I also hate standing on a slab ...

 

[CheezeCurdler]

Have you considered a basement or crawl space?
Gives a location for utilities (including DC, compressor, boiler, etc) and easy underfloor routing.
I also hate standing on a slab ...

A basement would be nice, since it would effectively double my sq footage. Thats a whole new ball of wax for me. Would the radiant heat in the bottom floor be enough to propagate to the upper floors?

On the ICF
Youtube is simply awesome! This actually seems faster and less of a learning curve than framing. Im highly considering this for my build. Also, I was unsure on how to finish the outside, and it seems there are built in advantages with the foam on the exterior for attaching stucco or other products.

I do like when suggestions are thrown out there, I find it hard to commit to things on my own unless its validated by the masses.

Thanks!
Cheeze--

 

[gnpenning]

I just took a look at the ICF. I really like the fact that it has good sound insulation. I will be running machinery that does send off a fair bit of noise at times. Im having a hard time picturing what you mean about the double thermo break under the door?


The double thermo break comes from the ICF block. You will be doing a block out for the opening. This means that your interior and exterior wall drop down and the foam block can be level with the top of your slab.


ICF goes up very quick. Have someone cutting rebar and block and 2 people stacking block. After the pour your walls are insulated at the same time. If your unsure about framing and don't know the difference between a king and a trimmer stud or what cripples are you would be ahead to do ICF for sure. Just remember to use treated lumber for any lumber that touch's cement. For your window bucks you can use treated plywood or paint on treatment. The 2 main ICF guys here are very knowledgeable and helpful maybe someone in your area is the same way. You do need a pumper truck and a ******** when pouring the walls. No big deal. As with anything a couple tricks can help you out so watch every video you can and find a good supplier. I like the AMVIC block.

If you want to stucco the exterior the ICF gives you a head start. The block I used has webbing every 6" for attaching siding or sheetrock. They have brackets you can add before the pour that will allow you to joist or anything heavy you may want to hang from the wall. Lots of options.

You can run power to your equipment under the slab or use channels to the power tools for power and dust collection, Or just drop from the ceiling.

Maybe do a bump out for your compressor and DC and any mechanical you need.

You will love the radiant. If you do a basement and only add pex to the basement it will give some heat up but not enough and will not be very efficient. You can run tubes along the floor joist for what is called staple up. I have that in my current home. I don't think you get as good of heat transfer and lose some of the benefits of radiant. My last place I used staple down with a lite weight cement. That works much better and gives great sound deadening between floors. If I could hear the kids it was a clue to go see what was going on.

 

[CheezeCurdler]

Been looking deep into the ICF's I will wait till tomorrow to call up some dealers and get some more info and prices.

How does one determine what wall thickness to use? I haven't found a clear answer on this one.

 

[gnpenning]

It will all depend on the load on the wall. Is going to be multi story, how high the walls, building codes for your area, etc.

My basement I used 6" walls and the main floor is 4". That is cement not adding insulation.

 

[Boilerhouse]

If you are considering ICF construction.....I took a free one day course offered by Amvic (located in TO just off of Steeles) sometime around 2008. They also offered a DIY install manual available as a free download. I highly recommend these if they are still offered. In addition to the forms, it is very important to support the walls with special jacks while the concrete sets. A tip is that, while the jacks are easily rented, some vendors will allow you the free use of jacks if you buy the forms from them.


http://www.amvicsystem.com/

 

[CheezeCurdler]

I am now certified.. Advanced Insulated Concrete Form (ICF) Design
and Construction Course Number: AEC636 (AM-EN-63603-0716) on June 5, 2016.

Yay me! Now for the fun stuff, re-designing everything around the ICFs. Im now concidering putting in a basement. Im going to pester the local authorities on this and see what they think about my new plans. Wish me luck.

 

[gnpenning]

What boilerhouse said. Also have the forms tipping in a SMALL amount at the pour. Set up a string line and crank the braces out to get your walls straight. Easier to push the wall out than to pull it in. No off sized 2xs, warped wood, cracked or knotted wood. Do your pour in lifts and vibrate as you go and should have straight solid walls. Your vendor should be a big help if not find another one.

Good luck. Don't over think it, get a rhythm going and it will go fast.

 

[CheezeCurdler]

The ICF's has definitely flipped my plans on its head. I really considering the option of a basement now. Since this is a workshop and not to roll cars in and out of, I dont really need the solid concrete floors. This also gives more options as Deadsock said for running utilities. I figure that the cost will not go up by more than 30-40%, as I was pouring a full foundation anyways.

The Basement
What is required for the basement portion? Do I have to put in windows for fire code? Any special drainage requirements? What else do I need to know? Its not a dwelling so not sure what the laws are around that.

Ideally I would like to keep the main floor 6 inches above grade and still have head room downstairs.

Cheeze--

 

[Boilerhouse]

Your local by-law office at your municipal office can advise you as to what would be required for floors, windows, drainage, etc. They likely won't issue a building permit until these conditions are met on the plans.