Just like the title says, looking to pick up some kind of work surface for my triple bay and was wondering what GJ preferred. I have researched a little and it looks like my main choices are butcher block from IKEA or a stainless stop either from a tool truck or local fab shop. Dont really anticipate any welding on top of my box but just general service type stuff which will include heavy grease and oils and occasional persuasion from blunt objects. Thanks in advance for replies - Joe
Worksurface ... butcher block or stainless
- Thread starter Sh1thead
- Start date
I was in the same boat and went with stainless. I really love the stainless tops. They will take more abuse than the butcher block tops. If you're going to be banging on them, get something a little thicker gauge if you can.
Hosalabad
Member
I voted stainless for cleanup purposes.
I'm leaning toward stainless but just wanted input from others ... thanks for the post.
Buckled
Well-known member
Where in Philly are you? Bally Block (NW of the city) sells of "seconds" at very reasonable prices. It may be worth a look. http://www.mapleblock.com/
Stuey
Well-known member
Those Ikea tops are nice, but can't take a lot of abuse.
Why not steel? Stainless tends to be thin, because it's expensive. Regular old steel has held up very well in my shop. I've never felt the need to go to stainless.
Butcher block is pretty comfortable to work on -- which sounds kind of dumb, but for me plays out in a way that has me going to my butcher block benches the most frequently for casual work.
But for pounding, or for dirty/greasy work, steel is great. The thicker the better.
Butcher block is pretty comfortable to work on -- which sounds kind of dumb, but for me plays out in a way that has me going to my butcher block benches the most frequently for casual work.
But for pounding, or for dirty/greasy work, steel is great. The thicker the better.
I'm live about 30mins outside of philly in exton but travel frequently for work/personal pourposes. Thanks for the heads up might have to give them a call and see what is available and what price.
I jump to stainless because that is what is actively marketed and commonly seen/used from what I have seen so far for what I assume is for its resistance to corrosion. Your post has me thinking off purchasing a butcher block and using have of the surface and inlaying some steel plate to kind of have best of both worlds type deal
dankicksass
Well-known member
Stainless tops are overrated. Butcher block and grease don't play nice. I used to work with a guy who had a heavy gauge diamond plate top, that seemed nice. The next non-plywood work surface I invest in will probably be concrete. I'm a slave to trends.
Brian Rust
New member
What happens when u have a block of wood marinating in petroleum products for years that u happen to be welding.....torching.....grinding near or just playin around with fire in the garage like we men tend to do.? u pickin up what im throwin down?I have a restaurant style stainless bench that has a 10 inch back splash on it. It's quite nice and cleans up really well, but I have found that sometimes I need a surface that is a bit more sturdy so I have bolted a 2ft square 3/4 ply to one side of the bench which gives me sort of the best of both worlds.
strelnik
Well-known member
That's true. Stainless has its advantages as well.
But-- why not both? Some things need a softer surface, others a harder one. Why not both?
I noticed they were not put as an option, it had to be one or the other.
Steevo
Well-known member
I'd be happy with galvanized tin over solid core doors, or a plain 1/4" steel plate surface. I don't really have any need for it to be stainless, just metal and impervious to oil and chemicals, and very resistant to damage from heavy metal parts on the surface.
SgtRauksauff
Well-known member
When I see what Ikea has as a butcher block, I kind of wonder if they know what they're talking about, and laugh.
We used to use a butcher block in the farm garage/machine shed when I was growing up. It was from my grandfather's store. It was a variety store, but he had a deli in the back where he would do meat cuts and other butcher shop stuff. Full hogs and beef hanging in a 20x20 or bigger walk-in cooler. The butcher block is literally two feet thick, about three feet square. It's held up for 40+ years in that shop, with a big vise attached, and lots of cutting/grinding/sparks going on by that vise.
I think a real butcher block makes a great work surface. That being said, there were many times when we'd use the big chunk of I-beam or railroad tie instead, because we needed to hit on something that wouldn't absorb and soften the impact like wood does.
--sarge
We used to use a butcher block in the farm garage/machine shed when I was growing up. It was from my grandfather's store. It was a variety store, but he had a deli in the back where he would do meat cuts and other butcher shop stuff. Full hogs and beef hanging in a 20x20 or bigger walk-in cooler. The butcher block is literally two feet thick, about three feet square. It's held up for 40+ years in that shop, with a big vise attached, and lots of cutting/grinding/sparks going on by that vise.
I think a real butcher block makes a great work surface. That being said, there were many times when we'd use the big chunk of I-beam or railroad tie instead, because we needed to hit on something that wouldn't absorb and soften the impact like wood does.
--sarge
ddawg16
Well-known member
Over the Xmas holidays I will doing my work bench.
I'm putting down a sheet of 1/4" plate steel then on top of that 16g SS...with the back bent up for a 6" back splash.
I'm putting down a sheet of 1/4" plate steel then on top of that 16g SS...with the back bent up for a 6" back splash.
gloveman132
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2009
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- 72
I have both and they are both great work surfaces.
However, if I could only choose one, it would be butcher block.
I have not had any problems with oil or grease on my butcher block, in fact, it makes it look better.
But, if I was working with a lot of solvents, I would want the stainless.
The obvious answer is to purchase both.
However, if I could only choose one, it would be butcher block.
I have not had any problems with oil or grease on my butcher block, in fact, it makes it look better.
But, if I was working with a lot of solvents, I would want the stainless.
The obvious answer is to purchase both.
I had some butcher block style tops on my benches before the refurb. They were soaked with oil and grime. Both sections ended up splitting (right down the glue lines)while they were off. They will be getting disposed of this winter, I'll be getting one last use out of them when they heat the garage.
bgott
Well-known member
Get one of these and cut it to size. They are around 3/4" thick, you would be able to toss heavy stuff on top of your box and beat the **** out of it and this matting will protect the top of your box. The pieces you don't use on the box can be cut up and stuck under grinder stands and such to keep them from walking around the floor.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/equine...t-rubber-horse-stall-mat-4-ft-x-6-ft--2219003
http://www.tractorsupply.com/equine...t-rubber-horse-stall-mat-4-ft-x-6-ft--2219003
Ikea offers three kinds of butcher block, if memory serves, Beech, Oak and Birch. I doubt if their Beech, Oak or Birch varies significantly from other butcher block made out of the same stuff and sold by other vendors. Maple is harder than those woods, though -- and it's commonly used in higher-end butcher block workbenches. Lumber Liquidators usually has a good price on Maple butcher block.
I have 2" Maple butcher block on one of my benches (it's from a Lista workbench) and 1-5/8" Birch from Ikea on another. I don't notice a huge difference between them, honestly.
Ikea also sells thinner butcher block material. But I wouldn't recommend that for a work bench.
I have 2" Maple butcher block on one of my benches (it's from a Lista workbench) and 1-5/8" Birch from Ikea on another. I don't notice a huge difference between them, honestly.
Ikea also sells thinner butcher block material. But I wouldn't recommend that for a work bench.
Last edited:
gloveman132
Well-known member
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- Nov 22, 2009
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santagary
Well-known member
A piece of old bowling alley, which is maple, (imagine the beating that gets), would suffice...I wish I could find some.
Grease and oil and machine parts to disassemble and then reassemble?
Plain steel.
Of the appropriate size and thickness as desired.
But what about rust you say? You're putting grease and oil all over it from the parts, it ain't going to rust! Don't put any drink cans or bottles or whatnot on it and avoid putting rust rings on it in the first place. It's a work surface, not a giant bar top!
Paint the bottom of the steel if you want, but leave the top bare metal with grease/oil on it and it won't rust.
That said, so-called 'butcher block' is rather nice for a woodworking bench. Real end-grain butcher block is nice for a butcher block.
For pounding on, use an anvil or a sturdy surface made for the desired pounding that will occur. Could just be a big diameter section of a tree stump, sometimes that is all that is needed. Could be a sturdy all steel table with sturdy legs and braces and a thick steel top. It could be a big anvil on top of a big diameter section of a tree stump.
Plain steel.
Of the appropriate size and thickness as desired.
But what about rust you say? You're putting grease and oil all over it from the parts, it ain't going to rust! Don't put any drink cans or bottles or whatnot on it and avoid putting rust rings on it in the first place. It's a work surface, not a giant bar top!
Paint the bottom of the steel if you want, but leave the top bare metal with grease/oil on it and it won't rust.
That said, so-called 'butcher block' is rather nice for a woodworking bench. Real end-grain butcher block is nice for a butcher block.
For pounding on, use an anvil or a sturdy surface made for the desired pounding that will occur. Could just be a big diameter section of a tree stump, sometimes that is all that is needed. Could be a sturdy all steel table with sturdy legs and braces and a thick steel top. It could be a big anvil on top of a big diameter section of a tree stump.
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
We sell and install a lot of different tops including butcher block (Bally) and Stainless Steel over a wood core. We also do a lot with steel, galvanized steel, and laminates. These are my feelings and what I did for my own shop.
I used Butcher Block in the office area. It is softer to work off and has a really nice look. In the shop I used stainless steel over wood core LISTA tops. They both are fantastic for my uses. I do a lot in my shop, including full frame off restorations, painting, repairs, etc. The SS is rugged but not to the point of bring a fabrication table. ********* fabrication needs a ********* steel top in my opinion but general use is just fine with stainless.
The stainless is super easy to clean up and extremely durable for my work. Oil, grease, paint, bondo, etc. all cleans up quite well. It still looks real good
There are a lot of choices; just match them to both your need and the look and feel you want in your shop. A good worktop is a really great asset and one that is all too often taken for granted.
Regards,
Joe
I used Butcher Block in the office area. It is softer to work off and has a really nice look. In the shop I used stainless steel over wood core LISTA tops. They both are fantastic for my uses. I do a lot in my shop, including full frame off restorations, painting, repairs, etc. The SS is rugged but not to the point of bring a fabrication table. ********* fabrication needs a ********* steel top in my opinion but general use is just fine with stainless.
The stainless is super easy to clean up and extremely durable for my work. Oil, grease, paint, bondo, etc. all cleans up quite well. It still looks real good
There are a lot of choices; just match them to both your need and the look and feel you want in your shop. A good worktop is a really great asset and one that is all too often taken for granted.
Regards,
Joe
EdT
Well-known member
Regardless of what work surface you choose I have been working on a plan to use LVL engineered lumber for the structural part of the benchtop. I am working with a local supplier to see about getting some offcuts from the long pieces they get and plan to glue up some 3 1/2" tops from that. Or, if i'm real lucky, I can score some of the 3 1/2" thick stuff that is 24" wide already at the local building material salvage yard. The material is cheap, flat, strong, durable and stiff (and ugly). Should work out well said the man who hasn't actually done it yet.
2 sheets of 3/4" plywood laminated together. When it gets too beat up, flip it over. You can get 10 years out of this senaro before it is time for new tops. Then, just add another over the top. I had steel, and for woodworking it is not ideal- marrs the wood I work on. I have homemade butcher block now and I have a 24" x 30" steel plate I put over it when I want to work on mechanical stuff.
Buckled
Well-known member
Just a FYI - Bally Block is right off of Rt. 100 so it's easy to get to from Exton. As a point of reference I got 2 60" pieces of ASH butcher block with a fully rounded front edge for $75 total. They were rejected by a customer due to the markings/coloring in the wood...
These are the 3 benches I made for the old 1930's Auto Shop I restored 5 years ago.
12 gauge stainless steel tops were formed by a local machine shop and that was overlaid on a 1 1/2 " substrate base beneath. I have 1/4" tempered Masonite laying on top of a couple of them so I don't chew up the stainless surface and the Masonite has some "give" to it....
.....seen here on the left. Once the Masonite gets nasty I can dispose it and replace with a new piece.
The whole bench build process and more pictures can be found here:
FAIR WARNING- the link below is page 17 of a 101 page thread, "Restored 1930's Auto Shop". Enter at your own risk!!
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51567&page=17
That said, I'm building a new custom bench for my barn and will use 3" thick maple butcher block top for it. I don't expect hard, heavy duty use for it, that's for my other shop with the stainless benches. For my purposes and the way I treat my equipment I don't envision any problems with butcher block. It is easier to work with, less expensive and has a much warmer appearance than stainless. Those qualities are important to me, they may not be to you.
Thomas
12 gauge stainless steel tops were formed by a local machine shop and that was overlaid on a 1 1/2 " substrate base beneath. I have 1/4" tempered Masonite laying on top of a couple of them so I don't chew up the stainless surface and the Masonite has some "give" to it....
.....seen here on the left. Once the Masonite gets nasty I can dispose it and replace with a new piece.
The whole bench build process and more pictures can be found here:
FAIR WARNING- the link below is page 17 of a 101 page thread, "Restored 1930's Auto Shop". Enter at your own risk!!
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51567&page=17
That said, I'm building a new custom bench for my barn and will use 3" thick maple butcher block top for it. I don't expect hard, heavy duty use for it, that's for my other shop with the stainless benches. For my purposes and the way I treat my equipment I don't envision any problems with butcher block. It is easier to work with, less expensive and has a much warmer appearance than stainless. Those qualities are important to me, they may not be to you.
Thomas
brianpgriset
Well-known member
How about Ikea butcher block top with 6 coats of polyurethane?!
Although I haven't gotten to the bench building stage, plans are calling for a few different surfaces.A nice laminate for precision assy. work, stainless or alium. for disassembly work and plain plywood for the hammern times.Sheets of alium.can always be changed.
I built my own workbench from scratch. We cut down a huge Ash tree and sent it to the kiln for drying. Constructed a 12' long bench with 3/4" thick butcher block top.
Coated it with marine grade poly.
I beat on it and definately use it, I wouldn't trade it for anything. Probably cause I got so much time in it.
Coated it with marine grade poly.
I beat on it and definately use it, I wouldn't trade it for anything. Probably cause I got so much time in it.
banditbigdog
Well-known member
Another option, 1/4" thick neoprene rubber sheet on top of butcher block.
Nice when working on motorcycle sized parts like carbs, engine, forks, ect.
Keeps things from slipping out from under you.
You can bear down on stuff too when trying to loosen stubborn fastners.
Also nice when cleaning guns, the rubber will not scuff stocks, forearms.
Tom
Nice when working on motorcycle sized parts like carbs, engine, forks, ect.
Keeps things from slipping out from under you.
You can bear down on stuff too when trying to loosen stubborn fastners.
Also nice when cleaning guns, the rubber will not scuff stocks, forearms.
Tom
ZRX61
Well-known member
Pretty much nothing.
DaleK
Well-known member
Probably won't be easy, but try to see if you can find a sawmill, or somebody with a bandsaw, and see what cheap hardwood they're sawing. Cutting a good slab of hardwood down to make butcher block doesn't do it for me. My benches are all 3"x12" or 3"x 10" rough-cut elm planks that dried in the barn for 10 years. Can't hardly dent them, can't burn them without making a REAL effort. Can't move them without a forklift or front-end loader. Can't drill through them to install a vise without burning out at least one drill-bit... works for me.
Nuts
Well-known member
I have a range from 1/4 in steel, to laminate. The steel ones get the most use.
Nuts
Nuts
Fueler
Well-known member
Have had both. Like both but prefer the wood.
As I work with a lot of aluminum I have settled on 2" Butcher block tops that I bought from McMaster Carr. They are around 20 yrs old now.
Tried the heavy coat deal at one time for the looks but hammer work of items would get to it after a while. Left some dings in the poly that bugged me.
I now use a light coat of spray on polyurethane from Minwax to seal them. Not looking for the heavy coated bar look.
These are heavy enough that I don't bolt them down.
Bear in mind that these are worked on daily. About every 5 years I take them outside, sand them down and reseal. Get new benches that way.
For heavy banging I use my welding table when a press won't fit the bill.
As I work with a lot of aluminum I have settled on 2" Butcher block tops that I bought from McMaster Carr. They are around 20 yrs old now.
Tried the heavy coat deal at one time for the looks but hammer work of items would get to it after a while. Left some dings in the poly that bugged me.
I now use a light coat of spray on polyurethane from Minwax to seal them. Not looking for the heavy coated bar look.
These are heavy enough that I don't bolt them down.
Bear in mind that these are worked on daily. About every 5 years I take them outside, sand them down and reseal. Get new benches that way.
For heavy banging I use my welding table when a press won't fit the bill.
katit
Well-known member
I'm leaning towards hardwood now. I found bowling lane for sale. How thick is this stuff? It's 42" wide. If I rip it - is 21" good enough for workbench? I'm kind of limited in space..
porschedude996TT
Well-known member
I think the IKEA BB's are great. They will not work well to disassemble a transmission on but why not have areas divideded into two types?
Rickstir
Well-known member
I don't have IKEA BB, but my brother came up with 2 pieces 24" by 84" by 1 1/2". Stuff is great.