World's BEST pencil sharpener... For 3.49

[Matt Matt]

Chinese ****.......... Next time buy American!

Americans have not supported this kind of buy American in about a 2 dozen years. Americans support buying the cheapest they can afford. This is why Walmart employees more Americans than any other company. Attention all Walmart customers/employees , this is why your friends and family are out of work.

I used to be in mass production. I could put the same product on the floor of any retailer for about $10-12 and it be produced in the USA. But 90% of the public rather buy Chinese discount, because that’s what they can afford/or What could help them get ahead , putting their brother/neighbor out of work.

Where is the good quality Heinz ketchup made now? Are American still supporting this? Of course they are, they get to buy a cheaper now it’s made in Mexico.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Americans have not supported this kind of buy American in about a 2 dozen years. Americans support buying the cheapest they can afford. This is why Walmart employees more Americans than any other company. Attention all Walmart customers/employees , this is why your friends and family are out of work.

I used to be in mass production. I could put the same product on the floor of any retailer for about $10-12 and it be produced in the USA. But 90% of the public rather buy Chinese discount, because that’s what they can afford/or What could help them get ahead , putting their brother/neighbor out of work.

Where is the good quality Heinz ketchup made now? Are American still supporting this? Of course they are, they get to buy a cheaper now it’s made in Mexico.

In our house we try our best to not buy Chinese ****. We don’t darken Wal-Mart threshold either. Food is also a problem check the label. Many food stuffs are bought off shore and packaged in either Canada or the US.
A number of years back, Mexico was the point of manufacture for many of our needs. Many electronic components were made in part or the whole product. Not so many years ago the job production jobs were rapidly disappearing in North America the biggest loser of these jobs were out of Mexico and those manufacturing jobs were heading off shore.

 

[Fretters]

And people will do it too. Then scarf pencils in 4 seconds. Pretty bad when Americans are too lazy to turn a sharpener by hand. I'm shaking my head now!

I'm trying to figure whether this thread is a piss-take or not too.

 

[MushCreek]

I want the heavy-duty one that uses a 1/2" impact.

I'd like to know where to get a quality pencil, though. When I was building the house, I bought all different brands, and sharpeners, but the points break too easily. It's not me; I have some really ancient (1950's) pencils that take and hold a nice point, although the eraser dry-rotted decades ago. I just use mechanical pencils now.

 

[6PTsocket]

The CH Hansen that HD is selling has competition. It is the Clauss Dual Drive. I just found it online. Wally World has it for $1.52 but no pencils. It does not have a hex shaft sticking out but appears to be female drive. I guess it takes hex or 1/4" square. Dunno.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[highpriest]

I want the heavy-duty one that uses a 1/2" impact.

I'd like to know where to get a quality pencil,

Blackwing 602 is the finest pencil every made. Made famous in the early 40s

made from 1938 to 1998 . vintage 602 SCRIBBLERS can get $150 US

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwing_602

 

[rlitman]

...
I'd like to know where to get a quality pencil, though. When I was building the house, I bought all different brands, and sharpeners, but the points break too easily. It's not me; I have some really ancient (1950's) pencils that take and hold a nice point, although the eraser dry-rotted decades ago. I just use mechanical pencils now.

For drawing lines on wood, you need a carpenter's pencil, and you need to learn to sharpen it with a knife. There is no good alternative.

There are two issues here.

First, carpenter's pencils should be sharpened to a wedge (with the corners knocked off), and not a point. This is capable of drawing as fine a line as a point will, but will resist breakage unlike a point.

Second, carpenter's pencils use a graphite blend that is fairly hard, but not overly brittle.

Writing pencils have graphite blends that are optimized for putting a line on paper, which can make them break easily when they get hung up on wood fibers.

 

[rlitman]

Blackwing 602 is the finest pencil every made. Made famous in the early 40s

made from 1938 to 1998 . vintage 602 SCRIBBLERS can get $150 US

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwing_602

I've got some Palomino Blackwing pencils at my desk. They're fairly nice. Well centered leads (something lacking in most pencils lately), that leave a smooth writing deep black line. REALLY nice erasers. Very similar in quality to the old 602s.

Personally, I have not found a pencil that tops the Reliance Ravenwood. That had a slightly harsher feel than the Blackwing, and was a little more grey in appearance, but to my senses, I preferred the more more tactile, almost noisy contact it had with the paper to the Blackwing that felt more like the despised ball point pen. I guess that's why I prefer fountain pens too. However, that is purely a statement of my personal preference, as I'm sure many (perhaps most) would disagree.

 

[highpriest]

For drawing lines on wood, you need a carpenter's pencil, and you need to learn to sharpen it with a knife. There is no good alternative.

There are two issues here.

First, carpenter's pencils should be sharpened to a wedge (with the corners knocked off), and not a point. This is capable of drawing as fine a line as a point will, but will resist breakage unlike a point.

Second, carpenter's pencils use a graphite blend that is fairly hard, but not overly brittle.

Writing pencils have graphite blends that are optimized for putting a line on paper, which can make them break easily when they get hung up on wood fibers.

Although I know how to sharpen the carpenters pencil with a knifeI much prefer the belt sander. I would agree if you’re laying out plates As a Carpender these pencils are good but if you’re laying out fine woodworking joinery or even historical millwork there far too clumsy. In fact more and more these days for rough carpentry i’m tending towards a sharpie

 

[rlitman]

Although I know how to sharpen the carpenters pencil with a knifeI much prefer the belt sander. I would agree if you’re laying out plates As a Carpender these pencils are good but if you’re laying out fine woodworking joinery or even historical millwork there far too clumsy. In fact more and more these days for rough carpentry i’m tending towards a sharpie

The belt sander will do it, but then I get upset about the mess of the graphite on the belt. But if it works for you, it will certainly get you the shape you need.

Yes, pencils, for the most part, are far too clunky to do fine layout in woodworking joinery. That's what a marking knife is for. Though I find that I can get a sufficiently fine layout lines with a clutch pencil with a 3H or harder lead, that has been pointed in my Dietzgen Shar Point (I recently picked up a Berol lead pointer, but have not put it to the test yet). However, I reserve this for layout lines that either won't be cut sooner or later (transfer lines), or will be rip cuts. Cross cut lines should have the surface fibers initially severed with a knife anyway. Though I will sometimes follow that knife line with a pencil to make it more visible.

I also keep around some 0.5mm mechanical pencils, specifically for use with my Incra marking square. You just need to account for the line width when cutting, but that's easy enough to do.

Sharpies: I LOVE sharpies. I've got blue (with a fine felt point on one side, and a razor tip on the opposite end), black, and silver (for drawing on black things). Many have small magnets attached, so I can stick them places. But I don't like them for carpentry.

 

[Coach James]

I bought a kit like the OP posted from Lowes about 6 years ago. I kept it in my classroom for when I needed a pencil. The sharpener worked quite well, though I just turned by hand, never with a drill. My students used it a lot also, as the manual ones we were supplied with (bought on state contract) frequently broke and fell apart.

Coach

 

[kctyphoon]

Not sure "Ketchup" is a good example of products going overseas and the quality suffering from that..

Not relevant- but if youve ever seen a TV show about Heinz, you'd see how different countries get different product packaging for the same Ketchup. Cultural trends dictate what containers they retail in at any given country. Some useless knowledge there. Lol

 

[Dave455]

Well, I was wondering whether to contribute to this semi serious thread or not, but WTF! As a former professional draughtsman, I might be able to add something!

Firstly, the problem of quality pencils! Guys, I share your frustration! This seems to be a particular problem in the U.S.

Leaving out makes from the past, and those that have progressively gone downmarket, there is still decent stuff!

The picture shows the popular Staedtler Lumograph (decent and relatively common) the Faber Castell 9000 (Nice) some Cumberland Graphic (lovely dense black line) Caran d'Ache Technograph (silky smooth) and some new Tombow Mono 100 which I don't have much experience with but seem superb (the Nepros of the pencil world)! I would recommend any of these unreservedly, but they are all primarily drawing pencils for use on paper!

For use in the workshop the traditional carpenters pencil is good, but I particularly like the Stabilo 'all surface' pencils (the graphite ones) which I find unbeatable!

As for sharpeners, most pro's use a knife or scalpel, followed by a polish on fine glass paper, but sometimes a sharpener is useful! Plastic ones never work, and the blades on Chinese ones are never up to the job! Here are some that work - a regular brass 'Kum', two classics by Möbius and Ruppert and an adjustable (different angles for coloured pencils) Dux. All made in Germany and all with replaceable blades! These patterns havn't changed in decades - 'if it ain't broke - don't fix it'!!!

 

[highpriest]

The belt sander will do it, but then I get upset about the mess of the graphite on the belt. But if it works for you, it will certainly get you the shape you need.

Yes, pencils, for the most part, are far too clunky to do fine layout in woodworking joinery. That's what a marking knife is for. Though I find that I can get a sufficiently fine layout lines with a clutch pencil with a 3H or harder lead, that has been pointed in my Dietzgen Shar Point (I recently picked up a Berol lead pointer, but have not put it to the test yet). However, I reserve this for layout lines that either won't be cut sooner or later (transfer lines), or will be rip cuts. Cross cut lines should have the surface fibers initially severed with a knife anyway. Though I will sometimes follow that knife line with a pencil to make it more visible.

I also keep around some 0.5mm mechanical pencils, specifically for use with my Incra marking square. You just need to account for the line width when cutting, but that's easy enough to do.

Sharpies: I LOVE sharpies. I've got blue (with a fine felt point on one side, and a razor tip on the opposite end), black, and silver (for drawing on black things). Many have small magnets attached, so I can stick them places. But I don't like them for carpentry.

All I can say than is you you haven’t lived if The sharpies not on the job site.I don’t like knives unless the work being performed is with hand tools and it registers cutting edges. Otherwise it leaves permanent marks which otherwise become a surface imperfections. Not much chance of any lead smearing on the 10 inch wide waterfall belt sander.Much of my work is machine set up and therefore I’m only setting up one markup and machine stops and registrations do the rest. Believe it or not I actually prefer HB and any of those hard leads that the engineers use are for counter sinking nails . In the drafting room I do like the sandpaper over the mechanical sharpeners especially when making a chisel point for lettering. And although I use mechanical pencils in drafting I hate them for the wood-shop . But best of all with wood pencils is I can hold one behind my ear

 

[kctyphoon]

Well, I was wondering whether to contribute to this semi serious thread or not, but WTF! As a former professional draughtsman, I might be able to add something!

Firstly, the problem of quality pencils! Guys, I share your frustration! This seems to be a particular problem in the U.S.

Leaving out makes from the past, and those that have progressively gone downmarket, there is still decent stuff!

The picture shows the popular Staedtler Lumograph (decent and relatively common) the Faber Castell 9000 (Nice) some Cumberland Graphic (lovely dense black line) Caran d'Ache Technograph (silky smooth) and some new Tombow Mono 100 which I don't have much experience with but seem superb (the Nepros of the pencil world)! I would recommend any of these unreservedly, but they are all primarily drawing pencils for use on paper!

For use in the workshop the traditional carpenters pencil is good, but I particularly like the Stabilo 'all surface' pencils (the graphite ones) which I find unbeatable!

As for sharpeners, most pro's use a knife or scalpel, followed by a polish on fine glass paper, but sometimes a sharpener is useful! Plastic ones never work, and the blades on Chinese ones are never up to the job! Here are some that work - a regular brass 'Kum', two classics by Möbius and Ruppert and an adjustable (different angles for coloured pencils) Dux. All made in Germany and all with replaceable blades! These patterns havn't changed in decades - 'if it ain't broke - don't fix it'!!!

I took surveying and construction/architectural engineering in college - my pencil sharpener from those days looks nothing like those.

 

[McFarmer]

Well, I was wondering whether to contribute to this semi serious thread or not, but WTF! As a former professional draughtsman, I might be able to add something!

Firstly, the problem of quality pencils! Guys, I share your frustration! This seems to be a particular problem in the U.S.

Leaving out makes from the past, and those that have progressively gone downmarket, there is still decent stuff!

The picture shows the popular Staedtler Lumograph (decent and relatively common) the Faber Castell 9000 (Nice) some Cumberland Graphic (lovely dense black line) Caran d'Ache Technograph (silky smooth) and some new Tombow Mono 100 which I don't have much experience with but seem superb (the Nepros of the pencil world)! I would recommend any of these unreservedly, but they are all primarily drawing pencils for use on paper!

For use in the workshop the traditional carpenters pencil is good, but I particularly like the Stabilo 'all surface' pencils (the graphite ones) which I find unbeatable!

As for sharpeners, most pro's use a knife or scalpel, followed by a polish on fine glass paper, but sometimes a sharpener is useful! Plastic ones never work, and the blades on Chinese ones are never up to the job! Here are some that work - a regular brass 'Kum', two classics by Möbius and Ruppert and an adjustable (different angles for coloured pencils) Dux. All made in Germany and all with replaceable blades! These patterns havn't changed in decades - 'if it ain't broke - don't fix it'!!!

Thanks, I'm going to order some.

We gotta quit buying this plastic stuff. Those brass German made sharpeners can be had for less than $7 shipped. Replaceable blades.

My opinion.

 

[engineer2]

Does anybody make a decent electric pencil sharpener that lasts more than a year or two? The ones nowadays have undersized motors that go bad quickly.

 

[rlitman]

Does anybody make a decent electric pencil sharpener that lasts more than a year or two? The ones nowadays have undersized motors that go bad quickly.

They do, but you'll pay dearly for one.
http://www.xacto.com/products/office-solutions/pencil-sharpeners/detail/1606
This has a double helix cutter, and a shaded pole motor that won't burn out.

 

[Dave455]

I took surveying and construction/architectural engineering in college - my pencil sharpener from those days looks nothing like those.

Well, we didn't actually get these provided. The way to sharpen a plotting pencil was to remove some of the wood with a knife, then sharpen the exposed lead on fine glass paper. You needed a quality pencil to withstand this! Many folks acquired their own 'lead pointers' to cut down the dust flying around, and the real pro's used to use a couple of turns on a sharpener first so the area you grip was even. These were, and still are, available in the towns art and graphics shops. Of course, the Government were paying for all this faffing about!

Sharpening softer pencils you just used the knife, but you needed a stiff blade so it didn't deflect away from the lead! The bigger, and more obscure, the better! I had a massive heavy old navy jack knife with metal scales that had much credibility! Our draughting instructor had some Victorian 'horsemans knife' that was about a 5 inch folder, which made him a serious dude in the hierarchy!

 

[RStewart]

Apparently they are called 'Prosharp'

And for $1.85 more I can get a two year protection plan.

 

[engineer2]

They do, but you'll pay dearly for one.

Thank you! $52 isn't bad when I've already bought and junked two $20 ones in the past 5 years.

 

[rlitman]

Thank you! $52 isn't bad when I've already bought and junked two $20 ones in the past 5 years.

Completely understood. My SIL payed much more for that model a few years back, and the "cost dearly" comment was based on my knowledge of her price, before I found it on Amazon.

She's an art teacher, who used to go through electric pencil sharpeners like they were going out of style. The other day, she brought it to me, distraught that it stopped working (just hummed). I took the top off, and turned the flywheel to see if the motor spun freely, and it crunched through some piece of graphite that must have stovepiped and jammed up the burrs. Works fine again.

The motor on this will run continuously for years, but it doesn't have all that much torque. Plenty to sharpen, but this thing isn't a garbage disposal afterall. So after sharpening thousands of pencils, I guess one just did something different.

 

[cheechi]

And for $1.85 more I can get a two year protection plan.

I wasn't suggesting you buy that one, just pointing out that you can pay more and potentially get better pencils. And I always like to know the real source of tools that are rebranded.

 

[Skin]

They do, but you'll pay dearly for one.
http://www.xacto.com/products/office-solutions/pencil-sharpeners/detail/1606
This has a double helix cutter, and a shaded pole motor that won't burn out.

Reviews state that the cutting blades are driven by a plastic gear that strips.

 

[rlitman]

Reviews state that the cutting blades are driven by a plastic gear that strips.

I just had one of these apart. The helical cutters are steel. They have cast metal planetary gears that fit into a cast metal ring gear that is directly driven by the motor. And as I said, the motor has very limited torque. I just don’t see it breaking.

 

[Al Borland]

Thank you for this thread. Best 3.49 + tax I ever spent.
Chucked it up in my dewalt.
I already went through all the pencils.
Hilarious. Laughed my *** off and had to show my crew.
Shavings went EVERYWHERE.
Everyone loved it.
Was there a point to this invention besides entertainment value?
Don't know. Don't care.
Perfect the way it is.
I would have loved this in 1st grade with Miss Velotte.
Is it sharp enough NOW, Miss Velotte!!!

 

[Al Borland]

Although I know how to sharpen the carpenters pencil with a knifeI much prefer the belt sander. I would agree if you’re laying out plates As a Carpender these pencils are good but if you’re laying out fine woodworking joinery or even historical millwork there far too clumsy. In fact more and more these days for rough carpentry i’m tending towards a sharpie

Staetler-Mars drafting pencils and 4H Leads.

 

[ChevyEFI]

the Clauss Dual Drive. I just found it online. Wally World has it for $1.52 but no pencils. It does not have a hex shaft sticking out but appears to be female drive. I guess it takes hex or 1/4" square. Dunno.

I should have this in hand soon. My kiddo needs a better sharpener, at school and home. So will his brother. Hope it is a good one.

 

[MushCreek]

Thanks to you guys (and a little thread drift) I finally found GOOD pencils! I ordered some Staedtler Mars Lumograph and Mitsubishi 9850's, both in HB (like the old 2B). The Staedtler's are alright, but a bit scratchy. The Mits are great! Both sharpen well without the points breaking off. Thanks for the tips!

 

[ku17]

I was inspired to make my first YouTube video about this sharpener. I suppose you could call it informative.

Credit to kctyphoon for the idea

 

[ChevyEFI]

The CH Hansen that HD is selling has competition. It is the Clauss Dual Drive. I just found it online. Wally World has it for $1.52 but no pencils. It does not have a hex shaft sticking out but appears to be female drive. I guess it takes hex or 1/4" square.

I should have this in hand soon. My kiddo needs a better sharpener, at school and home. So will his brother. Hope it is a good one.

It is female hex, with a spring loaded inner stop. Sharpener works fine, but doesn't put a needle end on the lead. The angle is possibly shorter than some sharpeners. Kid seems happy with his. For the price, absolutely a winner. Not sure if I still have any carpenter pencils.