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Would this be suitable as an anvil?

myredracer

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This is a heavy piece of an I-beam that was left here by the previous owners. It weighs about 300 lbs and is 18"L x 12"W x 14"H. The top and bottom flanges are 1.5" thick and the vertical web is 1" thick. Don't really want to take it somewhere to get cut into a more standard looking anvil.

It is heavy beast and not something that wants to get moved around much. I could make some kind of a stand - maybe 2x lumber on end. But would could be done to make it easily movable around my shop so I can store it out of the way when not needed?

Does an anvil really need to have a horn with a point on it?

70eb8e4c-0f8e-4bdb-951a-6d2dfec97db6.jpg
 
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matt_i

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Wow. Nice chunk of beam. Unless you need the horn, for curved work, it will work like that as a backup for hammering. Would be a lot of grinding or gas axe work to get it into another shape. Portable anvil? Not likely unless you make a mobile base that can completely raise or lower from the casters.

What kind of work are you intending to do with it?
 
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myredracer

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You sure that wasn't left there to keep the house from blowing away?

You know, that might just be. :) We are in a rural area with no trees on or near our property and we do get the occasional nasty windstorm trying to blow us over. Or maybe the PO had a hernia after trying to lift it and gave up. It's pretty much the only thing that was left behind...
 

Kaizen

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i'd get a big oak stump. maybe get some wide footprint wheels and lag them into the stump. problem is all the hitting on the anvil will be transmitted to those wheels so doubt it will last long. consider just putting it outside on the stump.
you can round off one of those corners for rounding work.
 

zkling

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Not really, but depends on what you are doing. You'd be better off with a ~4" square or round solid slug of steel about 15" or so long, set on end. Whether you need a horn or not is up to your uses.
 

larry_g

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First thing to determine is if it live or dead. Drop a steel ball on it and see how far it rebounds. If it rebounds a good amount then it's live and will work. If it hits with a thud and sets there then it's dead and will absorb most of the energy your trying to put into the piece your working on. The anvil should not absorb energy.

lg
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NUTTSGT

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Got a magnadrill ? Drill some holes through it to mount a vise on. Then find a nice chunk of oak or something for the beam to sit on. Use some old railroad spikes to hold it on the oak stump.

Put it right in the middle of your shop, cut, weld or beat the snot out of something on it.
 

justtools

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Got a magnadrill ? Drill some holes through it to mount a vise on. Then find a nice chunk of oak or something for the beam to sit on. Use some old railroad spikes to hold it on the oak stump.

Put it right in the middle of your shop, cut, weld or beat the snot out of something on it.

I too would put in the middle of my shop and cut, weld, beat etc on this. If you are an actual blacksmith with a forge etc and build things than you would also want an anvil. For what 99% of us handi people do. Straighten, flatten, bend, beat on, smash etc. That I beam is perfect
 
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myredracer

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Interesting about being live or dead. The only ball I had was a lead one and didn't think it'd work too well. :rolleyes2 Found a small piece of steel to drop on it and it bounced nicely. Has a nice ring to it too, which if it's like testing a crankshaft, has no cracks.

Not a blacksmith. About to restore a couple of cars I've had for a long time. Only thought of using it as anvil because I already have it. May not get a lot of use out of it but would be nice to have when I need something to hammer on. Has a pretty nice flat surface on it. Using it to weld on would come in handy - hadn't thought of that.
 
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BD1

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That would be great to pound on for sure. Awesome chunk of iron. IF you plan on using it as a anvil , meaning pounding and beating on it, Consider the height. I believe most anvil heights are set to the height of your hand making a fist. Bottom of hand is top of anvil.
 
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NUTTSGT

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If you decide to keep it and use it, we need a picture of it after you get it set up. I realize it's just a section of a beam but a piece that size sitting in a garage, has a "cool" factor IMHO.

:beer:
 
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myredracer

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If you decide to keep it and use it, we need a picture of it after you get it set up. I realize it's just a section of a beam but a piece that size sitting in a garage, has a "cool" factor IMHO.

:beer:

Will do! Wish I had some history on it - might have made it even cooler. Have to wonder what kind of beam application it came from.

That would be great to pound on for sure. Awesome chunk of iron. IF you plan on using it as a anvil , meaning pounding and beating on it, Consider the height. I believe most anvil heights are set to the height of your hand making a fist. Bottom of hand is top of anvil.

Did some googling this morning and found that! So far I like the idea of 2x lumber sandwiched together on end to support an anvil. Saw a pic of one that had angle iron on all the corners and painted black that looked nice.
 
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OldNeons

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I would make a very stout steel base for it. Keep it stable and safe, and rock solid so you don't lose energy through the base when really beating on it. I would put a pretty large radius on at least one of the corners, and maybe miter one also? Definitely wouldn't put it on a 2x4 base. If you set it up right, it will be a useful tool when you need it.
 

larry_g

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. Has a nice ring to it too, which if it's like testing a crankshaft, has no cracks.
That 'ring' is cool for about 2 minutes and then it just gets loud and offensive. One way to dampen the ring is to wrap some chain around the middle and it will damp out some of the ring.

lg
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metalmagpie

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When you put a piece of hot iron down on an anvil and hit it with a hammer, the hot metal is spread out. Half of the spreading force comes from the hammer, and the other half comes from the anvil. This only works if the anvil is much larger and more solid and immovable than everything else.

The problem with using I-beam for an anvil is that when you get away from the web and hit towards the edge of the flange, the beam will flex. Also, that beam is soft. It will dent, mushroom and the edges will degrade badly in use.

I'm sorry, but despite that piece of beam's impressive weight, it just won't make a very good anvil.

metalmagpie
 

Cypherian

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Hey,

You could use it to beat stuff on yes , but as metalmagpie said it is soft and will peen over and such . If you set it up at the right height which was already mentioned (Make a fist your knuckles touch the face with your arm straight down) it will be good do some work on but not actually doing a lot of metal shaping hot or cold the occasional piece no problem. I have a chunk of 4130 steel 16"x 9" x 16" I use if I just need to beat on something It works well for what it is . Your piece yep I would mount it on a cart with casters but also drop down legs to steady it where ever you park it and use it for basic stuff with the caution of WEAR EYE PROTECTION but beat away:}

Cypher
 

rsanter

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Yes and no
There are things that you can do with that and there are things that you will need an actual anvil for.
Keep it and use it, keep looking for an anvil

Bob
 

1930

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I agree with the two posts above completely, now send it to me so I can use it as an anvil :)
 
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myredracer

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Thanks for all the comments! Learned some things. Well, I've already got it and it was free so I will see how it works for the times I could use it. Will start looking on CL to see if a decently priced one shows up. Wonder how much 300 lbs of of steel is worth at the scrap yard? Hundreds? :bounce:

I have a real anvil I inherited from my dad who was a machinist in the navy in WWII. It's only about 3" long tho. Have no idea what it would be good for.
 

GRX

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Shape follows function. Need of a horn really depends on what you are doing. That is likely mild steel & will deform(dent) easily. Unlike a cast, or even better - forged, anvil.

That 3" anvil would be useful for a machinist who typically work with smaller pieces.
 
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KRB52

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Some have suggested mounting it on a log stump, old school way. If I may suggest (should you go this route) get, if you do not already have, a basic hand truck that can handle the weight of the anvil and base. Time to use the anvil, rock it a little and slide the lip of the truck under it. Wheel said anvil to where you plan to work. Once done with hammering, slide truck back under and replace anvil in storage area. This will help save your back from lifting it up. The hand truck can be useful for other things, too.
 

TractorJeff

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Keep it and use it top beat your car parts on! It will be fine! Some people seem to worry about true authenticity, than the fact that you need something besides your garage floor to beat on stuff. I fabricate a lot of stuff and have beat quite a few pieces on a 3/4" thick table top. The world hasn't ended yet from me doing this.
I believe you described it as an 1.5" thick "top" and a 1" web, You'll find it quite handy for beating on stuff. No worries, keep it and enjoy using it!
 
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