Packard V8
Well-known member
Can't believe no one has given a "You ****!" on these two steal deals. The larger homeowner/small industrial DPs are scarce up here and would bring easlily 2X-3X that money up here.
jack vines
jack vines
Would you ever consider a vintage drill press left exposed to elements
- Thread starter cgrutt
- Start date
Got some more done today...
Got table off and cleaned up the rest of the column
Bottom of stand
Bottom of table
Front of head
Right side of head
Left side of head
inside motor mount and outside belt covers
Outside motor mount and inside belt covers
Misc. parts
I'm beat, LOL...
Got table off and cleaned up the rest of the column
Bottom of stand
Bottom of table
Front of head
Right side of head
Left side of head
inside motor mount and outside belt covers
Outside motor mount and inside belt covers
Misc. parts
I'm beat, LOL...
Last edited:
ndnchf
Well-known member
Great progress! Time for a cold 
My Old Tools
Well-known member
Cast guard is nice.
Thanks!
Ridjobradi
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2015
- Messages
- 70
That's going to be a great drill press for the shop. I certainly wish that I had found a deal like that.
Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk
Got some paint on it today...
Heading upstate tonight to help out my FIL with his trailer so will let this sit and dry for a few days. Hopefully will put it back together this weekend.
Sourced a Rockwell 1 HP 1140 RPM motor for it. It's 3 PH but came off the Delta version of this press. I thought it had same footprint as the motor plate but it's off so still not sure if I'm going to use this motor yet or try to find an OEM WT. I did pick up the correct motor pulley though, so will definitely use that.
Coming along slowly but surely...
Heading upstate tonight to help out my FIL with his trailer so will let this sit and dry for a few days. Hopefully will put it back together this weekend.
Sourced a Rockwell 1 HP 1140 RPM motor for it. It's 3 PH but came off the Delta version of this press. I thought it had same footprint as the motor plate but it's off so still not sure if I'm going to use this motor yet or try to find an OEM WT. I did pick up the correct motor pulley though, so will definitely use that.
Coming along slowly but surely...
Getting it back together. Certainly much better than I expected when I brought it home, lol.
Still have some work to do. Need to buy a few bolts, touch up some spots on the paint, buff out column, etc. I also need to finish restoring the name plates. Tried a few times but not happy with how they came out so back to the drawing board...
Sourced an original motor and motor pulley. Haven't received the motor yet and will probably send it out for new bearings, etc. when I get it.
Having a few issues:
1. Column lock on table sticks. It tightens down and locks column easily, but doesn't release after it's loosened. This is one part I had left in because I couldn't get it out. I need some sort of puller that's pulls from inside about 2 1/4" deep but hole is only about 5/8" or so. I tried makeshifting a screw that attached easily enough but still wasn't able to tap it out. I don't have a puller though. Do they make some sort of slide puller that will reach that deep with a narrow head? Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
2. Spindle has less than .001" runout when turning upper pulley by hand. However, I'm getting about .026" of runout on a chucked drill bit. I'm going to buy a new No. 2 Morse Taper arbor and chuck. The one that's in there now was pretty rough and I'm assuming that's the problem. Hopefully it's not coming from within the spindle itself...
Still have some work to do. Need to buy a few bolts, touch up some spots on the paint, buff out column, etc. I also need to finish restoring the name plates. Tried a few times but not happy with how they came out so back to the drawing board...
Sourced an original motor and motor pulley. Haven't received the motor yet and will probably send it out for new bearings, etc. when I get it.
Having a few issues:
1. Column lock on table sticks. It tightens down and locks column easily, but doesn't release after it's loosened. This is one part I had left in because I couldn't get it out. I need some sort of puller that's pulls from inside about 2 1/4" deep but hole is only about 5/8" or so. I tried makeshifting a screw that attached easily enough but still wasn't able to tap it out. I don't have a puller though. Do they make some sort of slide puller that will reach that deep with a narrow head? Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
2. Spindle has less than .001" runout when turning upper pulley by hand. However, I'm getting about .026" of runout on a chucked drill bit. I'm going to buy a new No. 2 Morse Taper arbor and chuck. The one that's in there now was pretty rough and I'm assuming that's the problem. Hopefully it's not coming from within the spindle itself...
1930artdeco
Well-known member
CGRUTT, that is one awesome looking DP! What about a slide hammer? Will that work?
Mike
Mike
jkherd
Well-known member
That is looking great, keep us updated on the nameplate restoration. I would like to see your solution.chrispyny
Well-known member
Nice press. I love the old cast machines. I have a 1947 craftsman sitting in the garage that im waiting on winter to restore.
Where in Upstate are you? I'm in southern saratoga county!
Where in Upstate are you? I'm in southern saratoga county!
Thanks. I'm actually south of you in Lower Hudson Valley near West Point but spend a lot of time in Lake George. The guy I bought DP from was in Catskills and pretty sure it was in his family since it was new. I think it is early 40's vintage but not 100% sure about this.
Bob Hall
Well-known member
That's a beautiful job! Cast iron is amazing stuff it can stand the weather for ages and then clean right up to look like new. You got such a complete machine, with the safety rings on the column and the table lift and as someone mentioned that nice cast belt guards. Glad to hear the bearings are on the way, it's always a temptation to just oil and use the ones, but good bearings are where all of your accuracy comes from. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Edit: I re-read the post and see that you get some replacements for the table lift, still a heck of a deal and good job fixing that instead of just going with out.
Now, just for fun, see what a similar sized industrial quality DP would cost this year. Hint: it'll have a lot of plastic **** on it be whole bunch of $$ !
Edit: I re-read the post and see that you get some replacements for the table lift, still a heck of a deal and good job fixing that instead of just going with out.
Now, just for fun, see what a similar sized industrial quality DP would cost this year. Hint: it'll have a lot of plastic **** on it be whole bunch of $$ !
Last edited:
Thanks!
I actually cleaned and repacked the bearings. They seem tight. I measured run out on OD of spindle and it was just .001". But I'm getting .026" at drill bit, which could be alot of things including bad arbor, chuck, jaws or the drill bit that I used to measure it. Haven't tackled that yet. I'm waiting for a new to me motor, which is supposed to be OEM. May need to do bearings on the motor, which is what I was referring to.
I actually cleaned and repacked the bearings. They seem tight. I measured run out on OD of spindle and it was just .001". But I'm getting .026" at drill bit, which could be alot of things including bad arbor, chuck, jaws or the drill bit that I used to measure it. Haven't tackled that yet. I'm waiting for a new to me motor, which is supposed to be OEM. May need to do bearings on the motor, which is what I was referring to.
Oh, actually had to track down and buy some other parts.
Table lift was seized when I brought it home. Took it apart and the gears were sheared off. Ordered a new one from McMasters with a new rack/track. Had to cut the width of the new gear down on lathe to get it to fit. Seems to be working great now though.
I also had to buy a new crank handle for table lift because I broke the old one trying to get it off, LOL.
Bought a new spider arm assembly because the one on the machine was broken in half when I bought it.
Also sourced the correct motor pulley as the motor on the machine had the wrong one.
Sourced all of the original parts on ebay.
I think I paid $100 for the press when I brought it home. Probably put another $500-$600 into it so far. Still thinking about a VFD for new motor. Not sure if I saved anything at end of day, but it was a fun project and I prefer the old heavy machines anyway. I also think it's pretty cool that it was around during WWII. Who knows, may have assisted with the war effort
Table lift was seized when I brought it home. Took it apart and the gears were sheared off. Ordered a new one from McMasters with a new rack/track. Had to cut the width of the new gear down on lathe to get it to fit. Seems to be working great now though.
I also had to buy a new crank handle for table lift because I broke the old one trying to get it off, LOL.
Bought a new spider arm assembly because the one on the machine was broken in half when I bought it.
Also sourced the correct motor pulley as the motor on the machine had the wrong one.
Sourced all of the original parts on ebay.
I think I paid $100 for the press when I brought it home. Probably put another $500-$600 into it so far. Still thinking about a VFD for new motor. Not sure if I saved anything at end of day, but it was a fun project and I prefer the old heavy machines anyway. I also think it's pretty cool that it was around during WWII. Who knows, may have assisted with the war effort
tombell572
Well-known member
Well worth the investment, cgrutt. I commented on this project on the Practical Machinist forum (I post there as Riderusty). As noted earlier on this thread, JB weld will do the job on the dimples in the table. I used it on my first drill press, an old Buffalo I bought in the mid 70"s and it has held up fine.
Tom B.
Tom B.