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Wrenching beginner!

walwalka

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I need some suggest on tools for a beginner, I pretty much going do everything at some point. For now, if its more advanced repairs like timing and valvetrain I'll be having someone with all the tools help me. I'm looking for suggestion on everything from sockets and bits to specialty tools like compression testers. I have built on a basic socket set, I've got every 1/4 drive shallow socket I could every need, I do need deep well ones though. I need more 3/8 drive and 1/2 drive, shallow, deep, etc. Anything you guy think I need to purchase to make sure I've got the tools I need. Mostly going to be doing my own cars, my car is going to need a new o2 sensor and an exhaust here soon among other little things. I'm just trying to put together a list of things I need..

P.s. please no tool truck brands for suggestion unless every other option could get my killed.. Also, It will be a Honda and a grand am that will be getting fixed the most.



Thanks in advance!
 
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4x4gearhead

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I like to use a lot of double box 30 deg. offset wrenches for valvetrain and a lot of engine stuff. I find that I have pretty much more wrenches than anything. I myself work as a mechanic but I work on a wide variety of things throughout the year between work and my side work.
 

concealer404

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Finish out your socket sets. Get a good combination wrench set. Adjustable wrench. Basic plier set, and screwdrivers.

You can do 90% of all work with just that.
 

SMKS

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By far the best value is a Craftsman tool set. As far as I've seen, these are still all USA made, or at least are still made up of leftover USA stock. If you make a good purchase, you should basically be set for sockets.

I would sell the Craftsman ratchets on ebay and get other brands. There are too many choices for ratchets, but one I like is the Wright 3490. or the regular old SK ratchet. There are tons of the SK ratchets on ebay. If you want to spend a little more, the Armstrong 88 tooth ratchets are really, really nice.

Then a wrench set. USA made Craftsman RP wrenches are a good starter choice. Buy them from Sears or on ebay.

As another member mentioned, a few pliers and adjustable wrenches will get you started. I wouldn't go overboard buying at first. You can add stuff as you find out what you need.

For screwdrivers, I like Pratt-Read for basic USA made drivers. There are lots on Amazon or from Harry Epstein. I also have this made in Germany Wiha set that is really nice and it's cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002FTA4A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

For pliers, I like Wilde brand. They're made in the USA, good quality and low priced. They're available from Harry Epstein.
 

ericedelman

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A vise securely mounted to a workbench.
A nice bright drop light.
A good creeper.
Safe floor jack and jack stands, unless you have a lift.
Eye protection.

Swivel sockets - I think the most useful ones are the 3/8" shallow impacts because of the spherical joint, instead of the universal joint on the chrome swivel sockets. Sometimes the engineers don't think about what will happen when the car breaks and needs to be repaired, whether the fasteners will be easy to get to or not.

A good quality set of extractors and left handed drill bits, especially if you live where rust grows.

Prybars.

Ratcheting wrenches. Again, alot of times the fastener is hard to get to and the ratcheting wrench makes life a lot easier.
 

theoldwizard1

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I have built on a basic socket set, I've got every 1/4 drive shallow socket I could every need, I do need deep well ones though.
I have been shade tree wrenching for 45+ years, plus homeowner maintenance. I still don't own any 1/4" drive deep sockets so I don't think I will be buying any in my lifetime. I do use my 1/4" set a lot, even though I do not have a 1/4" ratchet. Most of the time it is my "breaker bar" or my hand spinner (screwdriver handle with 1/4 drive tip).

First priority is a full set of 3/8" drive, 6 point, regular and deep SAE and metric sockets. Besides a standard ratchet, get a flex head; the additional length comes in handy. 3", 6" and 12" extension and a universal.

I rarely use my 1/2" sockets.

O2 sensor require a special socket. There are special sockets for spark plugs. Exhaust means an air chisel and a compressor.

I am a Craftsman guy from a LONG time ago. Yes, the newer stuff is imported and not of the same quality as the old stuff, but the stores are convenient. They have good prices on socket and screwdriver sets around Father's Day and Christmas.
 

plung

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An air compressor is a handy thing to have.

direct-driven-air-compressor-fl-30-320.jpg


A torque wrench is a must also.

00999789000
 
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walwalka

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What about this kit for finishing out my socket set? There will be other sizes I'll need but that seems to be the most complete kit that is a decent price right now.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934032000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4#specs

I have a kobalt pliers kit that was bought for me as a gift, they seem to be ok for china made. I'll upgrade them at some point though. For ratcheting wrenches is Gearwrench the way to go or is there another brand that is similar quality without being $120 for SAE and $110 for the metric kits? I have been looking at the Armstrong ratchets, they are in my amazon wishlist for sure. I have a small air compressor, Do I really need an air chisel to do a catback exhaust on a honda? From what I can see the only bolts are at the cat flange.. I ask because my air compressor will not keep up with it's need. I don't have the cash for a bigger compressor right now. Not on top of buying the other tools at least. What is the BEST value torque wrench? Don't want cheap, but I don't want outrageously expensive either.
 
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plung

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Can't go wrong with a Craftsman set. It says Made in USA on it.

What year and model Honda?
 

countryroad82

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That seems to be a good set to finish out your sockets. Like the others have mentioned for a shadetree guy you can't beat Craftsman. My Craftsman tools have made me quite a bit of money through the years and rarely failed me and when they did it was usually my fault. I do recommend that you get a good set of screwdrivers, I suggest SK for nontruck brand. With a good set of sockets, wrenches, and screwdrivers you can do pretty well everything you need with very few specialty tools. As mentioned before a good jack and jackstands are a must!!
 
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walwalka

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Jack is on the top of my list, the jack we haven't isn't shady but I have no clue what it is.. lol Any suggestions on a decent jack and jack stands?
 
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plung

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My buddy has the same car. Has a timing chain so maintenance is a little more easier :lol:

All you need is a basic socket set for that Honda. Breaker bars are a must.

Hose clamp pliers will save you a lot of aggravation when it time to remove hoses.

9409A.jpg
 

ajchien

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I work mostly on Hondas too. Aside from sockets and wrenches, a serpentine belt tool would be nice as those are always in tight spots. Also, a whack it style impact driver. If you're geeky, there are quite a few JIS screws in there too, so no 2 and no 3 JIS screwdrivers might be nice. A breaker bar around 15" in length is good.

The problem with jacks is that they're either nice, or cheap. My opinion is either a quality USA jack ($350-$500), or go cheapie (<$100)with a "warranty" I.e. HF with 2 year service plan or Costco Arcan with costcos nice return policy. Expensive jacks are nice and will last decades between rebuilds). And you should expect a cheap jack to fail 1 day after whatever you warranty you have expires.
 

RKA

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O2 sensor require a special socket. There are special sockets for spark plugs.

One thing I'd add to that is to figure out what kind of O2 socket/wrench you'll need (check all your O2 sensors). Some are set up like a deep socket, others are a cross between a shallow socket and crows foot style, and others are integrated with a handle and designed specifically for very tight locations where the other two just won't work. Get what works for what you have...inevitably it won't be quite right for the next O2 you encounter, but that's how it goes.

Torque wrench...first one you'll need is for wheels and tires...something that maxes out north of 150 ft lbs with 1/2" drive. A harbor freight clicker will do the job if you don't want to spend a lot. I'd avoid the craftsmans with the plastic locking collars.
 

SMKS

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The problem with jacks is that they're either nice, or cheap. My opinion is either a quality USA jack ($350-$500), or go cheapie (<$100)with a "warranty" I.e. HF with 2 year service plan

BIG +1 on this.

Unless you get an expensive USA made jack, all of the jacks come from China and are likely sourced from only a few suppliers. When my Craftsman jack fails, I'll probably get a HF jack to replace it.

I would recommend a jack with the speedy-lift option. It has different names under different brands.

What is the BEST value torque wrench? Don't want cheap, but I don't want outrageously expensive either.

The HF torque wrenches are used by a lot of people and they work fine. They're made in Taiwan, not China. I have the 1/2" drive clicker and it's worked fine for me. It's not as nice as my Armstrong and CDI torque wrenches, but the HF wrench works fine. Gearwrench offers some USA made clickers for under $100. I would only buy new on a clicker torque wrench.

With most torque wrenches, they're only considered accurate from 20% - 100% of full scale. So, consider what torque specs you'll be needing. You'll probably eventually have to get more than one. I have probably 4 or 5.

You could also get beam style. You can probably go used on these, since they won't really go out of spec over time, unless they're really abused or the pointer is bent or something.
 
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woody 73

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I got my start buying Craftsman tools in (your home town)Woo-Town back in the 1970's; I bet it has changed somewhat! I still remember my old car blowing up at the corner of Henry St. and Columbus...

Start by picking up older craftsman tools (buy the sets that say made in the USA), because soon they will all say made in China.

Woody:lol:
 
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walwalka

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I'll probably pick up an HF aluminum jack, I have a coupon for HF torque wrenches for 13 bucks a piece. I'm gonna pick up a 3/8 and a 1/2 for now. Save some money there. My local autozone carry's the o2 sensor socket I need for my car. I'll probably pick it up when I buy my sensor.. I just found out(at 4 today) I have a second interview on Thursday for a new better job. Some tool truck brands may be possible here soon!!


I got my start buying Craftsman tools in (your home town)Woo-Town back in the 1970's; I bet it has changed somewhat! I still remember my old car blowing up at the corner of Henry St. and Columbus...

Start by picking up older craftsman tools (buy the sets that say made in the USA), because soon they will all say made in China.

Woody:lol:

That hits close to home! However, I'm 22... lol
 
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plung

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Don't buy that blue HF aluminum jack. I bought it, then returned it for the Arcan jack at Costco earlier this year. If you don't have a Costco membership, find someone who does and tag along.
 
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walwalka

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I was gonna get the 2 ton, But ill keep that in mind. I think my parents have a membership.
 

maxmax

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A NICE set of line wrenches! I got a set of metric snap-ons from local pawnshop. Best purchase i have made for the money i think. I had the cheap evercraft napa ones and it is night and day.


Hey woody, I am in marysville, northeast of columbus by 15 min! small world!
 

House Sparrow

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I started out with Proto wrenches, sockets, drive tools and screwdrivers. Good tools at a reasonable price. I still have and use all of my Proto tools, although I have bought almost all Snap-On for the last 10+ years.

Necessities that I can think of aside from basic sockets and wrenches are Torx sockets (internal and external), SAE and metric allen bit sockets and basic drum brake tools. A screw-type caliper piston compressor will save a lot of time and aggravation on GM and foreign rear brake calipers.
 
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walwalka

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How is the harbor freight brake tool? It's only $40 and doesn't look like a tool you could screw up badly..

Explain line wrenches? Couldn't I just use the open end of a combination wrench to do the same thing?

I have a decent set of Craftsman RP wrenches, 7 to 18mm and 1/4 to 7/8. Ratcheting wrenches are something I believe I want and need.
 
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Brownsfan

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Do not over look the Kobalt pliers you have. I have a bunch and I love them. The ratchets are very nice for the money and so are the wrenches. The sockets look good as well. And chances are there is a Lowes near you. I like Kobalt over Huskey tools hands down. If Craftsman gos all China made I would choose Kobalt. Food for thought the Cornwell corporate headquarters is in Wadsworth which is not too far from you. Of the truck brands I have found them to be the best price for the quality.
 

House Sparrow

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Mine is a Blue-Point, so I can't speak for the HF one, but yes, it's a pretty simple tool. It's not something you'll use ten times a day, either, so the HF one might be OK.
 
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walwalka

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Do not over look the Kobalt pliers you have. I have a bunch and I love them. The ratchets are very nice for the money and so are the wrenches. The sockets look good as well. And chances are there is a Lowes near you. I like Kobalt over Huskey tools hands down. If Craftsman gos all China made I would choose Kobalt. Food for thought the Cornwell corporate headquarters is in Wadsworth which is not too far from you. Of the truck brands I have found them to be the best price for the quality.

I have a lowes up the street, I like a lot of the Kobalt stuff. Sockets are way over priced but their ratchets are on my list. Mostly because of the convenience of their warranty. I will be picking up the Craftsman socket kit if I get this job, should know by Thursday..

Cornwell is close, but out of the budget for most things. I don't have 2 grand to spend on sockets alone. For as often as they will get used, I don't need or want to spend that kind of cash.

Mine is a Blue-Point, so I can't speak for the HF one, but yes, it's a pretty simple tool. It's not something you'll use ten times a day, either, so the HF one might be OK.

I'll probably pickup the HF one and see how it goes, if it is rubbish I'll return it.
 

House Sparrow

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It's worth a try for 40 bucks. I have had my Blue Point replaced once under warranty. Over time, the forcing screw will wear out and become hard to turn, but it took years of regular use for mine to junk out. If you start getting burred-up threads/ hard turning after a few uses, send that sucker back. If the material quality is OK, it will last a long time.
 

Brownsfan

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What kind of work? Wrenching on cars full time? I found the Kobalt sockets although more than Craftsman are not that much more. I have a Craftsman socket set that I have had for 16 years. So you cant go wrong with those. I will be upgrading soon and taking the Craftsman home
 

RKA

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How is the harbor freight brake tool? It's only $40 and doesn't look like a tool you could screw up badly..

Explain line wrenches? Couldn't I just use the open end of a combination wrench to do the same thing?

The HF brake tool is fine. I've had one for 10 years and it's worked on almost every car I've used it on and it's no worse for wear. I don't like buying junk tools, but I have no regrets with that purchase...it's a simple tool and works how it should. It's not a tool that gets abused either.

Line wrenches are good for soft fittings like on brake lines. An open end wrench is basically going to grab two points on those soft fittings where the line wrench has 5 points of contact. When you use the wrong wrench on these fittings (or a cheap one that spreads) it'll ruin your day, but you'll learn a new skill...flaring brake lines.
 
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walwalka

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What kind of work? Wrenching on cars full time? I found the Kobalt sockets although more than Craftsman are not that much more. I have a Craftsman socket set that I have had for 16 years. So you cant go wrong with those. I will be upgrading soon and taking the Craftsman home

I thought I mentioned it, maybe not. I will really only be working on my cars, 03 honda civic and 2000 pontiac grandam. Possibly a 98 F-150. My civic is getting up there in miles and would rather not pay someone to fix it. 155k and I'm willing to mess it up before paying a friends dad to fix it. Although I'm pretty good with my hand and brain, I'll probably be just fine. I've been a mobile electronics installer for about a year now. How much harder can it be? lol

I found a 176pc craftsman socket set for $152 from sears.com, by far the best socket bang for my buck. I could spend the extra $50 and get the kobalt 227pc kit, but I don't need the combination wrenches, hex drivers, or the ratchets for that matter. Only ratchets I need are flex head ratchets.

The HF brake tool is fine. I've had one for 10 years and it's worked on almost every car I've used it on and it's no worse for wear. I don't like buying junk tools, but I have no regrets with that purchase...it's a simple tool and works how it should. It's not a tool that gets abused either.

Line wrenches are good for soft fittings like on brake lines. An open end wrench is basically going to grab two points on those soft fittings where the line wrench has 5 points of contact. When you use the wrong wrench on these fittings (or a cheap one that spreads) it'll ruin your day, but you'll learn a new skill...flaring brake lines.

Ok, you've got my attention. Recommend me a good set, if it needs to be snap on or matco so be it. Somethings I will buy the better tool, if it means not breaking things..

Edit: What would you recommend for a serpentine tool? The HF one gets spotty reviews saying the samething..
 
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theoldwizard1

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How is the harbor freight (Disc/Caliper) brake tool? It's only $40 and doesn't look like a tool you could screw up badly..
True, but it is a set of tools that is only used infrequently ! Front disc brake pistons can be pushed back in with a C-clamp. Some rear calipers (such as Ford products) do require the special "winder" tool in that set, but you can frequently "rent" that set for FREE from many auto parts stores.

IMHO, this is a tool you buy when you are a pro or your tool collection is fairly complete.

Explain line wrenches? Couldn't I just use the open end of a combination wrench to do the same thing?
(A.K.A. Flare nut wrench) Frequently (but not typically on cars), the fitting on the end of a hydraulic line is made out of brass. An open end wrench will only make contact on 2 flats and it is very easy to damage the brass fitting. The line wrench makes full contact on 4 sides and partial contact on the other 2. Less likelihood of damaging the fitting.

Although I have done a couple of dozen brake jobs over the years, I have only opened a hydraulic fitting about 4-6 times.

Line wrenches, both SE and metric, should be on your want list right after your combination wrenches. When you need them, you need them.

Ratcheting wrenches are something I believe I want and need.
Want, yes. 45 year later, I have never "needed" them.
 

Brownsfan

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I own a Mobile Electronics shop in Parma Oh. I just expanded into electrical trouble shooting and repair, it was just a natural progression. I have independant shops sending me electrical issues all the time. I am in the process of getting my ASE A6 electrical certification. I was MECP certified and not one customer ever cared. We specialize in Remote Start and security so the electrical is just a no brainer, food for thought your half way there.
 

theoldwizard1

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I found a 176pc craftsman socket set for $152 from sears.com, by far the best socket bang for my buck.
Craftsman sets used to only have 12 point sockets. I HATE 12 point sockets, especially when working on older vehicles.

Focus on the BASICS ! 3/8" drive, 6 point, regular depth and deep.
 

RKA

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Ok, you've got my attention. Recommend me a good set, if it needs to be snap on or matco so be it. Somethings I will buy the better tool, if it means not breaking things..

Snap-on really (do a search and you'll see). Buy it when you need to mess with those fittings, no reason to go out and splurge right this minute since it's not really used every day.
 

Brownsfan

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Craftsman sets used to only have 12 point sockets. I HATE 12 point sockets, especially when working on older vehicles.

Focus on the BASICS ! 3/8" drive, 6 point, regular depth and deep.

So true on the 12 point. I will be buying 6 point when the craftsman get replaced.
 
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walwalka

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Line wrenches, both SE and metric, should be on your want list right after your combination wrenches. When you need them, you need them.


Want, yes. 45 year later, I have never "needed" them.

Ok, line wrenches on the back burner for now. Till I determine if ill need them.

I own a Mobile Electronics shop in Parma Oh. I just expanded into electrical trouble shooting and repair, it was just a natural progression. I have independant shops sending me electrical issues all the time. I am in the process of getting my ASE A6 electrical certification. I was MECP certified and not one customer ever cared. We specialize in Remote Start and security so the electrical is just a no brainer, food for thought your half way there.

I just want to wrench in my spare time, learn the basics of in-depth repairs and then build my civic once a have a daily driver..

That is Awesome, I've notice there are a lot of ohio people on this board.

I have never once had a customer ask if I was certified, which I'm not. I was planning on getting my basic this summer, but there will be no need if I get this new job.

Craftsman sets used to only have 12 point sockets. I HATE 12 point sockets, especially when working on older vehicles.

Focus on the BASICS ! 3/8" drive, 6 point, regular depth and deep.

This is the kit I found, it seems to have everything from 6 point to 12 point except for the giant sockets.. If I need a giant socket, I'll grab one of my impact sockets.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934032000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4
 

kippieland

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So I bought that same socket set before thanksgiving. It was a great price and I am very, very happy with it. Some of the ez-reads are coming off but with that many sockets an socket organizer is mandatory. Lowes has some nice ones. I find the 12 pts helpful in tight spots. I also like the Kobalt sockets as well. I have found the 3, 6, 12 extension to work great, but I prefer them with knurled center. Helps with slippery hands. I have multiple sets of each size.

I also really like the RP wrenches, but I find them a bit small for lockitited things. So I got a set of KT Pro wrenches that a bit longer, high quality, and not that expensive. I have also add some VERY long pattern single wrenchs off of ebay (14mm SK and 17mm Supercombo torqurer Williams.) I also have set of Genuis ratcheting wrench but would like to add some reversible ratcheting wrenches in the future. Helps speed things up!

As for a Ratchet, I would get a couple. I have mostly high tooth ratchets that I have gotten off of ebay (SO F80, Matco 60 tooth short and long) and have the Armstrong 88. But I also have a coarse tooth matco (same insides as a Craftsman RP) for oil changes and "I don't care if this ratchet falls on the concrete" type work. It nice to have more then one so you can load up before starting. The Kobalt ratchet isn't bad for the money....not the smoothest high tooth ratchet in the world but it is dual pawl.....its the standard Taiwan high tooth ratchet.

For pliers, I really like Channellocks pliers as well as their oil filter plier....very helpful in the tight spot. I also have pair of Klien, Knipex, and Craftsman....all great...I am not a fan of the Kobalts.....aways seem to stick open when working with one hand.

One suggest I found really helpful from the board was using cardboard pop boxes (like the ones from Costco) to put tools and bolts/nuts in while working on the car. Its cheap, easy to use, and helps keep things organized. Also, recommend plummers silicone tape....great for oil drain bolts (tip from my Bro-inlaw who is a tech.)

Have fun!
 
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DrkMtnDew

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I know they are considered 'old school' and 'outdated' but I find that a simple $30 vacuum gauge can tell you a lot about what an engine is doing. It is especially helpful if you don't have access to a scan tool. The second item that I think you'll find most helpful is a good multimeter. I'm not saying run out and buy a Fluke 88V (unless you want one) but don't cheap out too much.

Lastly, get a good hammer. you'll either use it to fix the car right or fix it beyond repair.

Happy wrenching... :beer:
 
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