lol every tech in my shop doesn't "torque to spec". I haven't seen any problems or complaint's in the year I've been there...
This is a pretty big sized Ford dealership btw... (around 20 techs)
lol every tech in my shop doesn't "torque to spec". I haven't seen any problems or complaint's in the year I've been there...
This is a pretty big sized Ford dealership btw... (around 20 techs)
Every time a thread like this comes up, and all the comments flood in about how they check to see what the mechanic is using. I can't help but wonder. If you are wise enough to know the "right" way, why are you having others do the job for you...![]()

You have a tire mounting machine and a road force spin balancer in your garage at home? Doubt it !![]()
Check garage sales and pawn shops for a 1/2" beam torque wrench. Get an extension and an appropriate socket. Physically verify the socket will fit inside the wheel indents and the extension is long enough. Keep one set with the spare in every vehicle. Best investment you'll make.
Sooner or later, you have to let the tire shop do what they do. As soon as the vehicle is home, loosen and retighten each lug nut yourself.
A while back, there was a vociferous argument here about whether to use anti-sieze on lug nuts. I've been doing it for fifty years on at least fifty POVs with no problems and never a stuck lug nut. With anti-sieze, I do drop the torque from 90# to 80#.
jack vines


This is life as we know it,if a shop does it right they're called cheaters who need to pay off their fancy tools. This type of thread comes up all the time.
Omg Becky look@ that $ bill,it is so big this guy must have fancy tools and a new boat.
Then this ^^^^^thread comes up these monkees @ this discount place messed my vehicle up...but he had no tools.
You have no idea how this pisses off service people who give a damn about "your vehicle /house, etc....then are told your price is way to high.
There are a-holes in every profession, and there are people who care.
When i pull up to my local tire place the "monkees"ask what I want done because I tip 1$ every time I need air and 5$ for tire replacement.
If you call four different places for the best price..you will spend more time and $, then establishing a "relationship" with them.
I have been installing fencing for people with more money than anyone on this board....also some with much less than most on here.
To recap;people of all walks of life are idiots and nice people...but a small tip, or simple recognition will have them recognize you.
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ch:Every time a thread like this comes up, and all the comments flood in about how they check to see what the mechanic is using. I can't help but wonder. If you are wise enough to know the "right" way, why are you having others do the job for you...![]()
Yes, agree, lubricants do affect torque. But WRONG as to their not being used on engine builds. Lubricants are used on the fasteners on every professional race engine build. Get the facts. ARP, the best fasteners one can use, says:It is a documented fact that antiseize will compromise torque of a fastener. No one will use antiseize on a engine build for this fact, but the same guy will put it on his lugnuts. It's more dangerous if your wheel falls off than if your engine goes bad, yet so many people think it's fine.![]()
As they say, your results may vary. But after working with the ARP guys on several race engine fastener projects, they've convinced me dry torque is always going to be all over the place. They've measured stretch and it varies as much as 25% at the same dry torque reading. The only way to get consistent fastener clamping is to use a lubricant and adjust the torque accordingly. I've used anti-sieze for fifty years and will use it on every lug nut for as long as I'm doing them.The Lubricant Is The Key
The main factor in determining friction in a threaded fastener is the lubricant used, and therefore influences the torque required for a particular installation. One of the most overlooked aspects of choosing a fastener assembly lubricant is…the lubricant's ability to "control" the normal function of friction inherent in all high performance engine fasteners. As discussed earlier in this section, friction is at its highest point when a new fastener is first tightened. This "friction" inhibits the fasteners ability to achieve the required preload on the first several cycles. In fact, ARP's in-house Research and Development department has proven that new fasteners using motor oil and other commonly used lubricants such as Moly and EPL typically require 5-7 cycles before final torquing to level out the initial friction and achieve the required preload. Slicker lubricants may reduce the required torque by as much as 20-30% to achieve the desired preload, but compromise in areas of major importance such as preload repeatability, and may yield the fastener prematurely. Typically, the slicker the lubricant, the greater the "preload scatter" or preload error there will be during installation.
The bottom line: Preload repeatability and preload consistency from a fastener to fastener perspective, should be the number one consideration when choosing a fastener assembly lubricant. Remember even the best fastener is only as good as its installation. Preload repeatability is the foundation for maintaining round housing bores, and preload consistency ensures the same preload from one fastener to another across a large area, such as the deck surface of a cylinder block. These two fundamentals are the cornerstone of every successful fastener installation and that's why ARP's engineering team set out to develop the "ultimate" fastener lubricant. The result of several years of extensive R&D is a remarkable new assembly lube called ARP Ultra-Torque®. As shown in the graph above, ARP Ultra-Torque® clearly provides the repeatability and preload consistency that no other fastener assembly lubricant on the market can provide today.
Torque sticks work.
With that said, I haven't used mine in years. I just set my impact to the lowest setting and torque the lugnuts on in the proper pattern. Doesn't torque the **** out of them.
You can also just leave the gun on kill, and hit the lugs for 1/2 second after they're tight to snug them on. Tight, but not too tight. Takes some time to get the "feel" of this. I haven't had any problems getting lugs off by hand this way on my own vehicles or customer cars. Then again, I am using a 2 foot long ratchet.
Not to worry Skyline - He'll get to buy a set of rotors someday.
This may have not been the fault of the Sears store.
We had cars come in sometimes at my Sears that had lugnuts stuck or cross-threaded from other shops. These were vehicles that hadn't been to our store or had another shop be the last ones to remove the wheels.
If a car comes in with over-tightened or cross-threaded lugnuts, it's not the fault of the shop that has to remove them.
Sorry, but I would never let you work on my car. This is total ********. If you consider yourself a hack mechanic who will take any possible shortcut to beat a book rate on a job, keep this up. If you consider yourself a professional, start using a torque wrench.
More and more cars are using alloy materials for studs that will simply not tolerate even slight over-torquing. And under-torquing is equally dangerous. This is simply not a situation where 20 ft lbs here or there does not matter. There have been more than enough big dollar law suits so that almost all large shops will require their employees use either torque sticks or a torque wrench, and the trend seems to be towards less acceptance of the torque sticks. Get with the program or get sued.
Check garage sales and pawn shops for a 1/2" beam torque wrench. Get an extension and an appropriate socket. Physically verify the socket will fit inside the wheel indents and the extension is long enough. Keep one set with the spare in every vehicle. Best investment you'll make.
Sooner or later, you have to let the tire shop do what they do. As soon as the vehicle is home, loosen and retighten each lug nut yourself.
A while back, there was a vociferous argument here about whether to use anti-sieze on lug nuts. I've been doing it for fifty years on at least fifty POVs with no problems and never a stuck lug nut. With anti-sieze, I do drop the torque from 90# to 80#.
jack vines
and then have eache wheel double checked by another person before it leaves the shop... take about 15 to 20 second for two people to torque a car