WTF drywall prices?

[1983Camperspecial]

Make sure anyone that works for who ever you hire , everyone is legal and no speakada de spanish.

 

[Cryptic1911]

yeah, we're not looking for day laborers.. maybe thats why its so expensive! LOL

 

[darkk]

Obviously someone is off on the math or has not gotten the complete picture of the area involved. The garage area is 30X30X12.6 the room above the garage is 30X30X8 and the ceiling is vaulted to 11 ' in the center. There is a 9.6X6' bathroom in the room above the garage. Also there is a connecting two story area between the original house and the new addition. It is odd shaped because of zoning issues and measures 11X16X17.6X18 with 8' ceiling on the first floor and it is split in half. a mud room and a bathroom/laundry room. the second floor is open but has a 12 ceiling height. I measured all the surface area and 185 sheets +/- will do all except the upstairs bathroom. That will take an additional 12+/- sheets of green drywall. The total job will require roughly 200 sheets total.

 

[Cryptic1911]

yeah I threw up a couple pictures to get a quick idea of the size, but didn't have any of the downstairs mudroom / bathroom area. either way, the prices are ****** outrageous. I have a feeling we'll be hanging this **** ourselves

 

[79firebird]

The price is high depending on what they use. when i helped my buddy do drywalling for a area that size we would charge $5800. They might be using Anti Mold Drywall as the new mud for it wich costs almost 2x more.

 

[91FE]

Make sure anyone that works for who ever you hire , everyone is legal and no speakada de spanish.

Yea... good luck with that. I'm thinking you're not too familiar with the residential sheetrock trade.

 

[Cryptic1911]

Woohoo, got a quote for $6650.. getting better! LOL. Have one more quote that hasnt come back yet

 

[darkk]

Woohoo, got a quote for $6650.. getting better! LOL. Have one more quote that hasnt come back yet

nope...we have two quotes we are waiting for.

 

[bww_mnm]

I was at Lowes today, <$5 for 1/2" drywall.

 

[Cryptic1911]

did you happen to see what 5/8 was? and where are you located? wonder how different the prices are in different regions

 

[Justanoldguy]

Levels of finish are rarely seen in residential in GA. Most drywall guys don't even speak english. It is either smooth ceiling or textured. lol

Well here in NZ, "level of finish" is everything.

 

[truckman5000]

Here in mass. the union rate, and i could be corrected is 100 a sheet. This was comming from,a deleated, on the job today.
This is installed and finished. 3 coats of compound, plaster even more. No paint.
So yah glad you are getting other quotes out there. And with the economy maybee ask around and see if theres someone looking for work.
And make shure to never give too much of a down payment ect. just because theres guys in the buisness to screw people also,

 

[fflintstone]

Quotes are just that, quotes, and when the 9.7k guy calls back tell him you have gotten a quote for just over half.
Keep searching, there is someone out there who has to make a payment on his 2009 F350.
That being said I would never do my own drywall again.

 

[bww_mnm]

I was at Lowes today, <$5 for 1/2" drywall.

I'm in Minnesota
I didn't see 5/8 but will be back at Lowes sat and will post. I'm guessing menaces is cheaper yet? Dedicated drywall place may be cheaper too?

 

[rlme36]

for my 36x30 with second floor, I was quoted about $4500 for 1/2 ", but not doing the 1st floor ceiling, was going to leave it open. Is there a reason people are using 5/8"?

rob

 

[gumbudah]

Assuming $2k for materials, $7700 seems way high for labor. I suppose the difference is what type of contractor you're getting bids from. Seems to me it used to be that you could more easily find contractors that show up in an old beater, get their tools out, and start working. Seems in the last 10 years, everyone I call to get a quote from shows up to the site in a brand new pickup, oh, and it's not the guy that owns the company, it's the estimator. As he pulls up hes yakin on his iphone too. My point is construction labor seemingly used to be a larger pool of people that were used to grinding it out making a mediochre wage. Now it's a smaller pool of overpriced contractors that have too much overhead that want to make a ton of money on each job. I still think there are more of the first type of contractor out there, but in general, by their nature at best they might have a yellow pages add (even a yellow pages add is rather expensive).
The tactic I've been pulling lately is to post the work on craigslist. My theory is instead of opening up the yellow pages and calling a guy that may or may not be busy or may not even be looking for work at this point, I want the people that are low on work, a bit more hungry, to find me. I've gotten some pretty good prices this way. I had an average price of $1200 to sheet, tarpaper and roof (i supply materials) a 30x52 garage... I got two guys to help pour a slab driving from 30 miles away for 5 hrs for $50 each.

 

[moopa]

At least you're not paying more than $17.00( incl. tax) a 4x8 sheet of 5/8 drywall like I just did at Rona on Vancouver Island!

 

[irishtom]

Is there a reason people are using 5/8"?
rob

Three I can think of off hand. Sound deadening (STC), Fire rating (Type 'X'), and stud or joist spacing.

 

[creativecars]

I have 1 wall that is shared with the family room and I want to cut down on noise transmission and help with insulation at the same time. Would doubling 3/8" sheetrock be better than 5/8". Also thinking about fire and water in the shop area. The house side is a finished wall and the garage side is 4" metal poles every 8', total wall is 30' long 8' high. Any suggestions??

 

[irishtom]

creativecars,

Simply adding additional layers of gyp (adding mass) by itself doesn't solve acoustic issues.

There are multiple solutions for every condition that can't be addressed fully in this forum. The 'sound' your hearing thru the wall is probably low frequency that is transmitted thru the studs. The solution is a staggered stud wall with acoustic insulation weaved between. It's a solution most homeowners don't have space to build after-the-fact.

On a two-family house I owned, I modified a wall between apartment bedrooms (use your imagination) by adding horizontal strapping at 24" o.c. over an existing wall. 1/2" homosote, then 5/8" gypsum board. I did this on each side of the existing wall, which wall a full 2x4, fully filled with spray foam and 2 layers of 5/8" gyp on each side. Sound was still being transmitted in the existing wall thru the studs.

 

[jhelrey]

I will fly from MN to CT and sheetrock your garage, etc. for $4000.00 for labor. I will pay for my own plane ticket, etc.

 

[darkk]

Is there a reason people are using 5/8"? rob

Because we have living space above the garage, it has to be 5/8" fire rated, We have 24" on center on the second floor ceilings, and we want the extra sound deadening. The shared wall in the stairwell for the second floor is the bedroom wall to one in the main house. So, the 5/8" drywall is fire rated/extra sound proofing/constructed of a denser filler. Besides we are only talking about less than an extra $200 in the total material bill. They don't charge extra for the different thickness in the labor rate.

 

[creativecars]

Because we have living space above the garage, it has to be 5/8" fire rated, We have 24" on center on the second floor ceilings, and we want the extra sound deadening. The shared wall in the stairwell for the second floor is the bedroom wall to one in the main house. So, the 5/8" drywall is fire rated/extra sound proofing/constructed of a denser filler. Besides we are only talking about less than an extra $200 in the total material bill. They don't charge extra for the different thickness in the labor rate.

They should charge extra for the 5/8, that **** is heavy. You lift too much of it and it'll make your babies be born naked.
Is there a difference in the material or process that make the 5/8 fire rated and extra sound control or just that it is that much thicker? That is why I asked if 2 pieces of 3/8 might be better yet. ?

 

[Cryptic1911]

I just looked this up online:

What's the difference between "regular" and "type X" gypsum wallboard?
ASTM C 36 designates two types of gypsum wallboard, regular and type X. Type X wallboard, which is typically required to achieve fire resistance ratings, is formulated by adding noncombustible fibers to the gypsum. These fibers help maintain the integrity of the core as shrinkage occurs, providing greater resistance to heat transfer during fire exposure.

To receive the "Type X" designation under ASTM C 36, a gypsum wallboard product must be shown to achieve not less than a one hour fire resistance rating for 5/8" board or a 3/4 hour fire resistance rating for 1/2" board applied in a single layer, nailed on each face of load-bearing wood framing members, when tested in accordance with the requirements of ASTM E 119, Methods of Fire Test of Building Constructions and materials.

Additionally, the Gypsum Association requires 1/2" type X gypsum board be shown to achieve a one hour fire resistance rating when applied to a floor ceiling system, as described by GA File Number FC 5410, in GA 600, the Gypsum Association Fire Resistance Design Manual.

 

[Justanoldguy]

I have installed a lot of double layered 5/8 in commercial buildings for firewalls.
Code requirement here in NZ. The joints have to be staggered also.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I paid 30 bucks a sheet for a basement finish. I dont know what level that would be but it was finished smooth and primered for that price. I had 85 sheets in the basement. He broke it out as 10 for materials 8 to hang and 12 to finish. I didnt hesitate to write the check. I got quotes of 4500 to 5500.. He was referred to buy 3 family friends who had work done. He was slow, but the work is great. $2550 didnt seem too bad considering the angles, bathrooms included green board at no extra cost. This was all for 1/2" though..

 

[1969]

Question........ is there much difference between the 1/2 and 5/8 drywall concerning sound transmission? I was of the opinion that there is very little. 5/8 having more "mass" , it does help, but very little I am led to believe. Thoughts......?

 

[Justanoldguy]

It is 25% thicker so effectively 25% better sound barrier.

 

[darkk]

I understand all 5/8" is fire rated...The 5/8" type X filler is compressed to make it denser than standard drywall.

 

[Cryptic1911]

Question........ is there much difference between the 1/2 and 5/8 drywall concerning sound transmission? I was of the opinion that there is very little. 5/8 having more "mass" , it does help, but very little I am led to believe. Thoughts......?

It is 25% thicker so effectively 25% better sound barrier.

Actually, Its alot less than I had thought as well.. I figured it would be considerably better at blocking sound, but from doing some reading today, its really not necessarily the drywall thickness that blocks the sound, its the act of decoupling it from the framing (not transferring the sound waves). I saw that they make glues to attach drywall to studs, and it alone drops the STC (sound transmission class) alot compared to having it screwed or nailed to the studs. If you screw or nail it in, the sound waves vibrate the drywall, and since it is firmly attached by screws or nails, it transfers the vibration to the studs and so on. If you attach it with the glue, it vibrates the drywall, and then the glue acts as an isolator to decouple the vibrations, thus not transferring them to the studs.

STC ratings are all over the place, but from looking at national gypsum, and knauf insulation's data sheets, there really isn't a huge difference between 1/2" and 5/8".. like 1 STC, though going to type-x looks like 1 more STC, so with their charts, a 2x4 wood stud wall with 5/8" type-x should be like 39-40 STC. I don't know if going to 2x6 vs 2x4 will make much difference since the wood itself is solid and will still transfer vibrations.

What I did find interesting though, was the fact that metal studs are way better than wood as far as blocking sound transmission. I never thought about it before, but I suppose the fact that they are hollow would help take some of the rigidity out of them, and dampen vibrations some.

Either way, I think it will be a slightly better setup with the 2x6 w/ r19 insulation and 5/8" rather than 2x4 r13 w/ 1/2" for sound deadening.. the numbers may only tell part of the story. We'll see how it goes.

 

[Justanoldguy]

My post was purely sarcasm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Justanoldguy
It is 25% thicker so effectively 25% better sound barrier.

Practically no noise control + 25% = Practically no noise control

 

[Justanoldguy]

This is the systems we use here in NZ.

Basic framing and the GIB rail system is most common.
See PDF files here.
http://www.gib.co.nz/noise-systems/

GIb = Gibralterboard = drywall.

 

[bww_mnm]

There are "isolated" drywall products that are drywall + noise film + drywall that suppose to be good. At AVSFORUM.com, they swear by green glue (?) between double drywall. Staggering 2x4 w/ a 2/x6 baseplate works too.

linky to isolated drywall

 

[Cryptic1911]

yeah, I've seen that stuff.. I don't want to go crazy making it totally silent.. would be cool though, but $$$ we don't have lol

 

[bww_mnm]

I paid 30 bucks a sheet for a basement finish. I dont know what level that would be but it was finished smooth and primered for that price. I had 85 sheets in the basement. He broke it out as 10 for materials 8 to hang and 12 to finish. I didnt hesitate to write the check. I got quotes of 4500 to 5500.. He was referred to buy 3 family friends who had work done. He was slow, but the work is great. $2550 didnt seem too bad considering the angles, bathrooms included green board at no extra cost. This was all for 1/2" though..

i have a ~1000 sq ft basement (bedroom, closet, bath, greatroom, office) we're starting to finish. Based on what my neighbors paid, i'm budgeting ~$2500. I'm in Minnesota.

 

[BruceE]

got two quotes for drywall in the past two days.. one was $9700, and the other was 9k.. this is for hanging / sanding / taping roughly 185 sheets of 5/8". Is drywall really that expensive? or are these guys just out of their minds?

yes this is a bit late but may clear up some of the confussion
on the pricing of drywall

material discription qty unit price total
______________________________________________________________
5/8” type X 4x12 185 10.1 1868.50
joint compound 5 gal 19 13 247.00
corner bead 8' 45 1.1 49.50
Durbond 90 2 11 22.00
Screws 1 1/8” 1 65 65.00
Nails 1 1/4” 1 45 45.00
2” 150' roll tape 22 1.2 26.40
sand paper 1 box 1 12 12.00
--------------------------------------------------------------
Total materials 2335.40

hang 140 7.00 980.00
hang high work over 8' 45 14.00 630.00
finish 140 8.00 1120.00
finish highwork over 8' 45 16.00 720.00
sand 140 1.5 210.00
sand high work over 8' 45 3.00 135.00
clean up remove from site 185 1.5 277.50
point up 185 1.00 185.00
warranty 185 0.75 138.75
--------------------------------------------------------------
Total Labor 4396.25
--------------------------------------------------------------
Total materials & labor 6731.65

supervision 5.00% 336.58
Sub Total 7068.23
---------------------------------------------------------------

over head 8.00% 565.46
profit 18.00% 1374.06
---------------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL 9007.76


NOTES
material prices as I remember them it has been a while since I last priced a job out
guessing at highwork counts based on pics
labor rates vary from area to area
level 4 finish
level 5 finish add 1.00 sf to cover materials and labor

it's funny how when people price things the forget about all the little things
that add to the bottom line

 

[Ugetwhatupayfor]

As a state licensed drywall contractor in California, I can tell you that $9000 is CHEAP! If you paid $9000 to get your job done here, I can guarantee that you would be hiring me for another 10k to clean up the mess & it would NEVER look as good as if you had hired me to do it in the first place. At $9000 there would be negative profit in it for me. At 20k I would see a company profit of about $3000 after paying for material, labor, and overhead. If you opted for spray textured walls & ceilings, you could expect to pay about 13k. When you hire me, you get a perfect job every time with no headaches ever. GUARANTEED. You get what you pay for!

 

[Stuart in MN]

As a state licensed drywall contractor in California, I can tell you that $9000 is CHEAP!

Note that you're replying to a three year old thread, so pricing may well have changed in the meantime.

 

[Kevin54]

Holy Zombie thread!!!!!

Uget...welcome to Garage Journal, but I think Cryptic finished up his drywall a couple years ago.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Note that you're replying to a three year old thread, so pricing may well have changed in the meantime.

He never claimed that it would be done on time.