WTF My water heater ver 2.0

[Thumper68]

Not wanting to highjack Ratdoggy's thread I am starting this one.

Came home today and noticed that my relief valve is leaking.

Valve that is there now.

Cash Acme 15836-0150 Nclx-5 Residential Temperature And Pressure Relief 3/4-Inch Valve

Question is there a way to clean this? ie open it and see if it flushes **** out and reseals or should I just order a replacement.

 

[Dr Stan]

Your best bet is to replace the valve. BTW a leaking valve is also a sign of tank problems. How often to you drain the tank to remove sediment? What type of water do you have? Hard, soft, or? What's the age of the tank and what's the average lifetime of a water heater in your neck of the woods?

Drain the tank and rent, borrow, temporally steal, an inspection camera to take a look at the inside of the tank.

If its electric try to get a view of the element. Good, Bad, sorta OK?

Gather your data and then determine if the tank has more life or if it is just about at the end of service. They are not difficult to install and I recommend natural gas over electric as they tend to be much more efficient.

"The shop is both my salvation and sanity!

Of course the garage is bigger than the house" Mine is bigger than the house I grew up in. It was 24 X 36 or so. My shop is 24 X 48.

 

[mires]

You can pick up a replacement locally. No need to order. Won't hurt anything to exercise it and see if it will stop leaking but should replace it either way.

 

[vettex2]

Drain the tank and rent, borrow, temporally steal, an inspection camera to take a look at the inside of the tank.

10 bucks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-2M-Andro...hash=item5d5c4fab68:m:mp6u701th_plARFSOsP9btg

 

[dogdog]

Mines have another copper pipe connect to it extending it to about a 5 gal bucket level, I flush it once a year by placing a bucket under it.... but sometimes when it gets really bad, it takes a while to re-seal.... haven't tried to take it out and use my cheapo ultrasonic cleaner on it yet.... I guess for $10-ish and something homedepot stocks, I;ll just replace it for the peace of my mine. If it ever go bad that is...

 

[Thumper68]

I just noticed the dripping today, but I had the water off last week for another plumbing repair.

I drain and flush the tank every june as part of spring clean up, oh it is 7 yo nat gas fired.

I will shut it down tomorrow and see if I can get it flushed out and get it to seal, if not then a new valve it is.

 

[matt_i]

I've replaced a couple of those in my life, the only thing that's ever happened by exercising them (to me at least) is that the leak got considerably bigger to the point where replacement went from "this week" to "right now".

 

[Thumper68]

I've replaced a couple of those in my life, the only thing that's ever happened by exercising them (to me at least) is that the leak got considerably bigger to the point where replacement went from "this week" to "right now".

That is my experience as well, that is why I posted the question here just in case someone had a better way to do it.

As of this morning it went from a dribble to a drip, since it is only about 18" from the floor drain I am holding off on tackling it to see if it stops on its own.

 

[gungatim]

it won't stop on it's own. just head to the local hardware store or box store and pick up a replacement. pretty common and a cheap fix. I did mine 10 yrs. ago. WH is going on 20 yrs. now...

 

[Big Bad Dad]

I thought we had the same problem but a new TPR valve didn't fix it. The house was built back before expansion tanks were required, and apparently the municipal water supply pressure was either increased or it spiked occasionally. Added in an expansion tank on the cold side piping at the heater and the problem solved.

BUT! The valves are there for safety reasons. Make sure the temperature setting is within the normal, safe, operating range. Should be no more than 125 degrees for a residential water heater.

 

[Milton Shaw]

45 Years ago, I bought a house in Nashville Tn, and local codes required a plumber to replace the P&T valve on water heaters before the closing could be completed. I was at the house when he and his helper changed the valve. The tag on valve said do not solder pipes directly on the valve, which he did. Paid him the $100 and got his receipt for closing. Then changed the overheated and leaking valve he left my self a week later. The idea of replacing the valve is a safety issue on older houses but its a money maker for a plumber

 

[Jackfre]

Relief valves are a one and done thing for me. First off, with a tank water heater you need an expansion tank on the cold inlet. Do you have a check valve or back-flow device in the system? From 32*-212* water will expand approx 4% by volume. Usually the growth just pushes back the cold water side, if it can. Also, with use the pressure is relieved. Where relief valves fail is when the water that is received sits on the seat of the valve and drys, depositing the precipitant on the seat of the valve. If this happens a few times, depending upon your water quality you can "weld" the seat shut making the valve in-op and loosing your primary safety relief. When you super-heat water and it flashes to steam it expands about 1700 times. It will, in fact, huff and puff and blow your house down. Replace the valve and check out your expansion tank. it is short money for your families safety.