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WX4SNO's Garage Build

WX4SNO

Active member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
Alright, here we go. I've built a few garages for friends and family over the past couple years and after finishing one a couple months ago, I finally decided to start planning for my own! I've seen so many posts on here and other forums, and heard many mention that they wished they would have built bigger. Well I tried to heed that advice, but you can only go so big with so much $$$. I decided on a little bit bigger than average but not so big it would be hard to heat/cool and cost a boatload to construct. So I figured about 30x44 would be a good size garage and I would have room for two vehicles, a side-by-side (SxS) UTV, and it would allow me to get my amateur radio equipment out of the house and into a separate room in the garage.

Here's the plan layout I created on my computer:

http://imageshack.com/a/img923/8002/fgWBUy.jpg
fgWBUy.jpg


We have the second-highest home in the county, and the highest elevation home that is occupied year-round, so we've nicknamed our property The Bergrückzug which is rough German for "mountain retreat." Needless to say, our SxS is a necessity during the winter months, as it is sometimes the only way in-and-out of the property. I wouldn't have it any other way; the wife on the other hand...well. So, I knew right off I wanted a separate access point for SxS so as I wouldn't have to move the other vehicles to get access to it. A 6-ft wide garage door will be sufficient for it and there will be a couple outlets located above the machine to allow me to plug in a trickle charger to keep the battery topped off after each use. For some reason, our Kawasaki drains the battery dead if its not ran every few days...I think it may be from a wire that's shorting out when it rubs against the frame but I'm not sure.

Anyhow, the entire garage will be on a 4-5 inch concrete slab, 6/12 pitch roof overhanging a foot and a half with architectural shingles. Three sides will be covered in Hardie board while the rear wall will be LP Smart Siding. I plan to install two rows of 6-in wide concrete block along the base of the walls for additional height since the walls themselves will only be 8-ft studs. The left side of the garage where the two cars will be parked and where I will be doing most of the work will have scissor trusses running the length of the garage, while the smaller section of the right will be regular common trusses. I plan to install fiberglass insulation and sheetrock on the walls and ceiling as soon as possible after the build.

The right-side of the garage will be 18-ft wide and 26-ft deep. Just last week I went down to Northern Tool and picked up my order of two 7500w shop heaters and a Vogelzang wood stove. The wood stove will be prominent there in the shop, along with a 50-inch TV someday. The 14x9 room will serve as my ham radio shack and will be serviced by one or two 240v plugs and several power outlets for the radios. I have a spare 96" baseboard heater I will throw in there for backup heat. The two wall-mounted heaters I already have too, they are electric and produce 4000w each; one for the shack and one for the "man cave" slash den there.

Our well is located just a few feet from the garage, so I plan on running water to it at some point. Therefore, I decided to create a small room in which to house a second pressure tank that will be connected to our main line running to the house. This will increase our water storage by another 40 or so gallons hopefully. This small room will have 2x6 walls for lots of insulation and a small 2-ft baseboard heater to keep the water from freezing. I found a good deal on a small instant hot water heater that I plan to mount in that room as well to help keep water piping to a minimum in other areas of the garage; the garage's sink will be on the opposite side of the wall. A future compressor will be stored in here as well, along with a couple high-voltage outlets. I plan to install PEX piping inside the garage walls for air lines.

The main garage area will be 26-ft wide and 30-ft deep. Each bay will have separate lighting and separate industrial ceiling fans for cooling. I am going to plumb out the backside of the 2x6 wall for a washer and dryer in case I ever decided I need those. I may also install some cabinets in the back corner and have a small refrigerator I'd like to put out there for drinks. Not many windows in this part of the garage...figured I'd rather have the storage space on the walls. The garage doors will be 9-ft wide, which is about as wide as I can go and still be able to get in and out easy.

I figure a 40 circuit breaker panel will be enough for this project. I am planning on having a disconnect installed to allow me to run things off my generator if there is a power outage. I also plan on putting a disconnect on the outside of the back wall for a future mini-split unit for heating/cooling once I recover from spending...lol

Lots going on, but I welcome any input you all have! Any thoughts or questions or concerns about the layout thus far?

Thanks,
 
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WX4SNO

Active member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
This is how our property looked a few weeks ago before I hired an excavator to clean and level it off:

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The guy finally got up there around the 2nd of November and started work.

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He finally finished up last week on Thursday...I'll have to post an updated photo of the work. He put in a total of 31 hours but only charged me for 28 at a total cost of $2,520 plus a load of 57 gravel which was $360. A bit more than I wanted to spend, but anyone else would have taken 3x as long and charged more per hour to do it...so I'm happy and now we have a place to turn around and park until I start the build.

Waiting on the county to issue the permit now...having a little trouble since I purchased 0.20 acres adjacent to ours from my neighbor where this is happening...apparently they don't consider a notarized, county-recorded deed as proof of ownership. Now they are saying I don't own the land and there is a dispute with the county zoning...ugh. But we followed state code in the sale of real property so I don't see what the fuss is about. Once that's settled, I'll hopefully have the footers dug and ready to pour anyhow so it won't take the building inspector long to look them over and I'll be on my way.

I figured I'd pour the footers and lay the block for it over the coming weeks and let it set over winter till late spring when I will go ahead with the slab pour. I'll cover the block with plastic to keep the precip out of the cores and keep them from freezing and busting once they're up.

At least I've got it dug out. Geez there were some boulders that come out of there!
 

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,243
Location
Maryland
Good layout! I have a couple of quick thoughts. First, if you can make your 2 doors 10' wide, you will be much happier. Secondly, think about a mini split to keep the place cool in the summer. Third, it's not much extra cost to put pex in the floor pad - even if you don't use it. Definitely insulate and drywall right away. And then paint. Finally, do whatever you plan to do to the floor a month after the pad is poured. I did Armorpoxy 3 coat system and love it.

Good luck and good plans!
Tom
 
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WX4SNO

Active member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
Good layout! I have a couple of quick thoughts. First, if you can make your 2 doors 10' wide, you will be much happier. Secondly, think about a mini split to keep the place cool in the summer. Third, it's not much extra cost to put pex in the floor pad - even if you don't use it. Definitely insulate and drywall right away. And then paint. Finally, do whatever you plan to do to the floor a month after the pad is poured. I did Armorpoxy 3 coat system and love it.
Tom

Thanks for the suggestions! I am planning on putting in a mini-split in the future. I will be running electrical to the outside wall on the back of the garage and installing a disconnect switch and power outlet which I can tie into later when I put in the outdoor unit. My house is cooled and heated using a Mitsubishi mini split and I like them a lot for the convenience (no duct work to run) and the ease on the electric bill. I just wish there was a way to put in a smart thermostat easily but mine is wireless from the receiver to the indoor unit.

I did my father-in-law's garage floor using an epoxy. We went with a brand called SureCrete since there is a local guy that runs a concrete/epoxy install/training business. It worked out great and really looks good...we just had to be quick about it because of the pot life. The garage I did this summer for a friend, he decided to go with a floor coating called Rust Bullet, which was originally intended for car parts I think. Anyhow, it went down super easy and we even were able to use the flakes which covers up a multitude of sins, if you know what I mean. It's really held up well so far, and I really like it...so that is probably what I'll use on mine and it's half the cost of epoxy to boot!

I'll ask the inspector about going with 10-ft doors. There is a bracing rule they follow and not sure if I can get by with having 2-ft on each side of the doors.
 

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,243
Location
Maryland
I also put in Mitsubishi mini splits and you can use a wired smart thermostat. There is an adapter you can buy (not cheap) from Mitsubishi that allows you to use a thermostat of your choice. I could look up the model number of the adapter if you need me to. I went with a honeywell tsat. I guess it's not a "smart" one in that it's not web compatible, but it is programmable and lets me do what I need to do. Honeywell RTH8500D is the type of tstat.

Tom
 
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WX4SNO

Active member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
Looking forward to seeing your progress. Just curious as to the software you used for you floor plan?

I used Chief Architect Premier X4, which is an older version. I think they are up to version X9 now or something. I've had it for years and used it to plan my house out. Not too difficult to use for simple layouts but it can get very complex if you know what you're doing.
 
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WX4SNO

Active member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
It's been almost two weeks since I submitted my application for a building permit and I hadn't received any word about it. Our county takes three days for the review process, but since I hadn't heard anything, I called them up Monday. Apparently they were all out for the thanksgiving holiday, but the county operator patched me into the only building official, an inspector, working this week and he was out in the field doing work. He said that as long as I have a deed wrote up and it has the proper legal language delineating the property, and if it has been notarized and recorded at the county courthouse, then there shouldn't be any problems with building a garage on newly acquired property. I asked him, then why was the zoning department giving me grief over it...he's exact words, "because they can." He told me to give him a few hours and he'd go back to the office and look and see what was the hold-up on the permit.

Well, he called me back in about 4 hours, left and message, and said it was ready and to come and get it! Glad to hear that. I went and picked it up yesterday. I didn't ask any questions though, I just paid them and picked up my permit. Either they forgot to call me and tell me it was ready, or the building inspector pushed it through.
 
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WX4SNO

Active member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
Laid out the corners for the garage. Tuesday my father-in-law and I went and picked up two pallets of 6-in. cinder block for the knee walls...240 in total. I took my trailer to my cousins and got enough hardie board to do three sides of the building...will do the back in Smart Siding.

Plan is to pull the tractor out Saturday or Monday and dig the footers, then order some block and rebar for delivery Tuesday, if all goes as planned.

All for now. Have a happy Thanksgiving today!

20171123_092709[1] by Anthony Phillips, on Flickr
 
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Riley

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Feb 18, 2007
Messages
398
Looks like a beautiful spot and a great project!

Are you considering a drain of some sort in the utility vehicle storage area?

Seems if snow travel is a primary planning point, then having some place for it to drain when said snow melts would be worth while.
 
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WX4SNO

Active member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
Are you considering a drain of some sort in the utility vehicle storage area?

Seems if snow travel is a primary planning point, then having some place for it to drain when said snow melts would be worth while.

Yeap, sure am. I will have a 10-ft drain between the two bays in the garage and on the other side I will have a 6-in. drain underneath the UTV/SxS. Also have a small drain in the compressor closet in case there is a leak with the water storage tank or I need to drain the compressor.

Dug two sides of the footers yesterday and hoping to finish them up later this evening after I run some errands. Looking to pour them Friday afternoon before cold weather sets in early next week. I'll post some pics in the next day or two.
 
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WX4SNO

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Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
Next week is looking very much below normal in terms of temperature, so I decided to rush and dig the footers the past couple days to take advantage of the warm spell before a strong cold front sweeps through next Tuesday.

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1/2-in. rebar and put in a will-call order for some 3000 psi concrete. Rushed things to completion on Thursday night; I had already called the county for an inspection Friday AM. Inspector came and said everything looked good to go, so I called up the concrete folks, gave them some updated figures on what I thought I needed, and had them scheduled for 2 PM Friday. All we had to do now was wait...

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Truck got there right at 2, which was very suprising...other pours I've done I've had to wait at least a half-hour all the way up to about 3 hours before they got there! I took out a section of the rebar and stacked 8-in. block in the footer so the truck could back into the garage area and we were able to shoot every bit of it without having to use a wheel barrel.

I calculated 8 1/4 yards needed for the footers but ordered 8 3/4 for good measure. Just as we were finishing up, I heard the mixer churning the last little bit of concrete it had...worked out perfect as the driver said there was probably about a half-yard left. :D

cWWFRd.jpg


May get started on the batter-boards this afternoon, if not, it will be Monday. Temps turn to mid-30s for highs, low 20s at night starting next Wednesday after a good, soaking, much-need rain on Tuesday.
 
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WX4SNO

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Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
Nice work! Keep the updates coming. Nice to live at elevation, isn't it?!?

Yes it is! One day it's sunny and 50° and a couple days later it looks like this...

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My old man and I were able to get a few rows of block laid a couple days ago before it got cold on us. There are only about 55 more 8-in. block left to lay, then two additional rows of 6-in. block on top of them, minus the garage and man doors. We're hoping to do those this coming Monday if things improve wx-wise. The height of those batter-boards is the height of where the floor will be eventually. Some of the dirt will have to be moved on the upper-side but other than that it won't take much to back-fill. Just wish the lower-side wasn't three blocks high off the ground. Ohh well. When you live on the side of a mountain...
...
 
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WX4SNO

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Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
Happy Easter! Weather is turning warmer here, after back-to-back snow storms and a 4-day power outage from heavy, wet snow last week.

Was able to dig and install the main 3-in. drain line and 3/4-in. water line and set them in place yesterday. Also was able to run my 1/2-in. hardline for amateur radio and a rotator cable inside 2-in. PVC, along with two runs of Cat-6 for internet in 1-1/4" PVC. The hardline will run under the crawlspace of our house and out to a manual switch on one leg of my tower for operating either several HF bands, depending on antenna (TA-33M or TW-32-XL). I have a Alfa Spid RAK rotator and RT-21 controller that the rotator cable connect to. The two Ethernet cables will go inside the house and make for a wired connection for internet in the new garage. I envision a security camera setup and IoT inside the garage in the future, so I wanted to go wired vs. wireless for this.

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Planning on back-filling the lower side of the garage and putting a little more dirt inside the foundation this upcoming week prior to some more precipitation. I'm hoping to get some gravel and have things ready to pour in a couple weeks...we'll see.
 
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WX4SNO

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Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
32
Location
Snowville, VA
We've had a lot going on lately, but will try and be brief with an update on the garage progress.

Had two loads of 57 gravel delivered and spread them out across the garage and along the outside entrances. We then set the three drains in place and ran the lines out the back wall where they will run down along side and out into the woods. One drain is for the two car bays, one for the UTV, and one for the compressor closet.

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We laid down some heavy gauge 6-mil plastic sheating for the concrete floor after using a transit to level the gravel. I installed all the anchor bolts and then put up some forms for the doors and called for an inspection; everything passed.

Concrete arrived on April 30th and the crew that poured and finished the floor did a fantastic job. Took a little over 18 yards (ordered 19.25 yds) and is between 4 and 4.5 inches thick. I went with 5000 psi with commercial fiber; cost was $3401 plus $1340 for the labor finishing. I never used the commercial strands before, but WOW, what a difference. Those fibers are 2-3 inches long and there was so much of them mixed in...expecting good results out of those! I'll never go back to residential fiber again!! You can see the fibers mixed in here where some fell on the ground, and in the second pic when the driver washed out his truck...

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I kept the slab wet overnight using a sprinkler, but it was taking so much water I was afraid it would ruin the well pump, so I discontinued it after that. It's been two weeks now, no cracks as of yet, but that's not a concern as I'm planning on putting down a floor coating later this year after the garage doors are up. Only thing that has me a little worried is they didn't include any air in the concrete mix, so not sure how well the outside slab will hold up with freeze/thaw.

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We put down the sill plate and I installed the foam gasket this morning and ratcheted down all the bolts. The plan is to head to the store tomorrow and order all the materials to get it under roof, minus the shingles. Home Depot won't deliver shingles on to the roof surface, so will be ordering them from 84 Lumber which does offer this convenience. I have all the electrical, siding, and insulation for the thing already, so this is one of the last major purchases other than the drywall and garage doors.

D6dX7M.jpg
 

NES

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Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Messages
488
Location
Illinois
Very cool looking photos of the garage coming along. That must be wonderful to have it in a very secluded wooded area.
 

slik560

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Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
787
Location
Kansas, USA
I just came across this after searching for HAM SHACK so I hope that your project was completed and after I get my general license this weekend, I may try to find you on 40 meters some evening. :)

73

Kevin
KF0BSQ
 
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