To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

X Cable Bracing

Chris_P

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2020
Messages
60
Location
Montgomery, TX
I had a 30x40x14, w/ a 12' by 40' lean-to, iron metal shop building built ( Chris_P's 30x40x14 Build ) and when the builders erected it, they used cable x bracing on a couple of the walls and in the ceiling. The building is erected and skinned (waiting on rollup doors). I have been told by the builder that the wall x bracing can be removed so that I can put my work bench up against the walls better. Unfortunately this builder has walked the job and not finished (had to order the doors myself and there are numerous items not finished up) so I have a hard time believing this guy. What is your opinions on removing the wall x bracing?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2177.JPG
    IMG_2177.JPG
    251.9 KB · Views: 75
  • IMG_2178.JPG
    IMG_2178.JPG
    206.8 KB · Views: 72
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

readhead

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2012
Messages
6,175
Location
Durango, Co.
The X bracing cannot be removed unless something replaces it. On a red iron building the cable or rod bracing provides all the shear bracing. The sheeting just encloses the structure. He is giving you bad advice.
If you want to use that space you may be able to move the bracing to another bay. Usually all of the columns are punched for bracing.
 

gregs

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2007
Messages
1,589
Maybe you could drill holes in the purlins where it crosses and move it closer to the outside? There by keeping it in its current location but giving you a little more depth to the wall.
 
OP
C

Chris_P

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2020
Messages
60
Location
Montgomery, TX
So to get a engineer to sign off, I would have to hire a structural engineer to come out; I wonder what's the possibility of that and costs. Venture to a guess?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
C

Chris_P

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2020
Messages
60
Location
Montgomery, TX
Maybe you could drill holes in the purlins where it crosses and move it closer to the outside? There by keeping it in its current location but giving you a little more depth to the wall.
I did this very same thing for the glass overhead door to clear...
 

Attachments

  • tempImageTa5xRR.png
    tempImageTa5xRR.png
    2.4 MB · Views: 62
  • tempImageHfFmGd.png
    tempImageHfFmGd.png
    1.6 MB · Views: 52
  • tempImageBr50X3.jpg
    tempImageBr50X3.jpg
    655.4 KB · Views: 63
OP
C

Chris_P

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2020
Messages
60
Location
Montgomery, TX
Who did the original plans and drawings for the building ? I would think that they could tell you if the cables are removable ???
Unfortunately, the plans are not engineered stamped. The guy used his dad's company program to design.
 

readhead

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2012
Messages
6,175
Location
Durango, Co.
If cable or rod bracing is not possible a portal or moment frame is used. Such a case would be a wall full of windows or doors where the X bracing would be in the way.
As I mentioned before, moving the bracing to another bay may be your best bet. Retrofitting a portal frame can be quite a bit of work.
Usually only one bay per wall needs to be braced unless it is over 100’ long.
 

rockinacummins

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2013
Messages
1,706
Location
Wapanucka, OK
We have run cable bracing through holes cut in the wall girts to save interior space before. We try to get them as close to the exterior as possible and have never had an issue. You may want to check local codes, but we’ve never had any issue with those either.

As stated above, I wouldn’t recommend doing completely away with the bracing. On small weld up buildings we have used ratchet straps to square the frame and then removed them once it was sheeted. I wouldn’t recommend that at all, and certainly not on a wall length over 20’.

EDIT: after looking at your pictures again, I now see that you have by-pass girts. I’m not sure you could move the bracing toward the exterior without fabricating new attachment points closer to the exterior. That would be a pretty involved job, and may not be worth the effort.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom