Yes,another Internet in Garage thread.:)

[gayler]

You already have an overhead line?

If so, just go ahead and use the DB CAT5/6 and strap it to the existing overhead every couple of feet with SS wire..

I have done this before and it works fine.

Thanks! I wasn't sure if there would be any interference doing this. I would think they are shielded well enough to prevent it.

 

[volleyball]

The coax has shielding all the way around it.
I'd use tywraps and not pull them too tight. Also vary the spacing a little bit between ties.
Does your cable have a guy wire or is it the one with the wire built in?
Make sure that wire is grounded.

 

[gayler]

The coax has shielding all the way around it.
I'd use tywraps and not pull them too tight. Also vary the spacing a little bit between ties.
Does your cable have a guy wire or is it the one with the wire built in?
Make sure that wire is grounded.

My coax does not have the wire in it. I got a couple hundred feet free from the cable co.

 

[volleyball]

I'd replace the coax with the proper type or run a separate guy wire or just conduit and trench it all.

 

[gayler]

I'd replace the coax with the proper type or run a separate guy wire or just conduit and trench it all.

I may at some point but what I have is all free, so I'll use it till it quits.

 

[Beemer533]

I'd use tywraps and not pull them too tight. Also vary the spacing a little bit between ties.

Just make sure if you use tywraps to at least use UV resistant ones (typically black, not the natural nylon color).

This post edited by the NSA

 

[volleyball]

I may at some point but what I have is all free, so I'll use it till it quits.

So the Cat cable is free? Then go for it. But once they start whipping back and forth, they will kink and break, then you will have to get more free stuff or pay.
Wire tied tight is not a good idea. But if it is all free, especially his time, then why not?

 

[gayler]

So the Cat cable is free? Then go for it. But once they start whipping back and forth, they will kink and break, then you will have to get more free stuff or pay.
Wire tied tight is not a good idea. But if it is all free, especially his time, then why not?

600 ft left on a 1000 ft roll

 

[dan10101]

One thought would be pulling a second cable.
Other thoughts..
It will be whipping like the first one.
It might make it heavy and droop.

This is the cable someone else mentioned. w/messenger. a tie wire to hold it steady.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TXRSJRW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'm actually in the same delima. Have lots of indoor cable, but want to put a camera out in the trees facing the house. If I have left overs, I'll probably just try it and see how long it lasts.

 

[volleyball]

That would work just like the cabled coax. But if you have wire without, a SS guywire is not expensive.

 

[Beemer533]

One thought would be pulling a second cable.
Other thoughts..
It will be whipping like the first one.
It might make it heavy and droop.

This is the cable someone else mentioned. w/messenger. a tie wire to hold it steady.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TXRSJRW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'm actually in the same delima. Have lots of indoor cable, but want to put a camera out in the trees facing the house. If I have left overs, I'll probably just try it and see how long it lasts.

Many many years ago I was renting a house and a shop that was about 80' apart. I had internet in the house but I also needed it in the shop so I ran an 1/8" cable for support and zip tied a regular indoor CAT5e cable to it as that is what I had...

I was surprised, but it was still working fine after 5 years when I moved out. I wouldn't do it now, but if that is what you have to work with, go for it.

This post edited by the NSA

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

Seems like a make work project, you guys are way overthinking this one. The power line router I used is still working fine, I can stream TV shows if I want and it took 3 minutes and $75 to setup. Shop is 160' by wire from the house panel.

 

[knagy389us]

I tried to use a powerline adapter in my detached but it wouldn't pick up the relay from the house module. I have a sub panel in the garage and read that hey don't support working in this config. I have a main panel on the outside of my house which feeds the house panel in the attached garage. The detached garage power was pulled from the main outside, and the module is plugged into a circuit on the internal house panel. Tried several times to get it to connect, no dice. I will pull some CAT5 through the conduit that runs between. I have a draw line running through now.

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

Transmitter in the house is about 20' from the main panel, the about 160' of #1 teck to the shop, 100 amp panel there and another 70' inside the shop to the receiver (wire length, not actual distance). It does say to plug direct into the wall, not a cord or surge suppressor. Also when I first looked into them just a year or two ago they looked pretty limited compared to the ones they sell today. I'd buy one and just take it back if it doesn't work before I'd run all that cable.

 

[vintagespeed1956]

i'm sure somoneone's already answered this for you, but 100' is easy.

two wireless N or A access points (not necessarily routers) as a bridge.

i acquired some TrendNet 653s from a closed site and really like them. cheap, easy, POE.

 

[vintagespeed1956]

...My cable line is overhead. Could I string it up with the overhead coax?

you DO realize that you can run "internet" over coax/cable dont ya? that's how you're Genie or whatever you have does it's multi-room magic.

you need a $15 DECA to convert ethernet onto your coax and then another at the other end to connect your network.

i should've read that before my post above.

 

[Kev7274]

I didn't really actually take my laptop out to the garage to even try to get a Wifi signal because I figured it would be pointless. 100+ ft away I just assumed that it wouldn't be any sort of signal.

Well,I took the laptop out to the garage and I got 4-5 Wifi bars and I was streaming youtube,etc without any problems. Was getting 54-140 Mbps during the Wifi test.

I still plan on doing the Loco M2 with the Unifi AP just to ensure future endeavors. Do you think that it will be worth it or should I leave well enough along? I'm amazed that I even had that kind of signal in the first place.

 

[Beemer533]

If it is reliable enough, and it works for you now, I guess there is no reason to mess around with it anymore.. Unless you need a hardwired port for something that doesn't have wifi, then you will need to put in the link.

If you don't need any hardwired ports and the wifi seems flaky sometimes then you could do a repeater.

Don't forget that wifi is 2 way communications, so something with a weaker transmitter than your laptop may not work well, like a phone for instance.

 

[Kev7274]

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing about other devices. I do think I will go ahead and do it so I know that the signal will be there when needed.

 

[jomobco]

I tried to use a powerline adapter in my detached but it wouldn't pick up the relay from the house module. I have a sub panel in the garage and read that hey don't support working in this config. I have a main panel on the outside of my house which feeds the house panel in the attached garage. The detached garage power was pulled from the main outside, and the module is plugged into a circuit on the internal house panel. Tried several times to get it to connect, no dice. I will pull some CAT5 through the conduit that runs between. I have a draw line running through now.

My power line adapter works through the sub panel in the barn but going through a transformer to my shop kills it. The shop is closer too.