To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Yes, it's a compressor wiring question...

Slowcorrado

Active member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
29
Sorry to post ANOTHER compressor wiring question. But, I'm a firm believer that you can't be too careful and thorough with this type of thing.

I have an old Ingersoll-Rand T30 I'm installing in my small garage and would love some clarification on the proper wiring. I'm located in PA (uses NEC 2012 to my knowledge). I've attached a pic of the motor information plate and compressor





Based on the plate I see it's single phase rated at 230 volts, and I'm guessing 25 amps? My 200A service is 50' away. The motor has its own external "control" box attached that has a reset.

So finally the question: Using copper non-metallic cable (romex), will 10/3 be sufficient and not overkill and what amperage double-pole panel breaker do you suggest? Basic logic says 30A, based on the wire size, but I thought there was some required upsizing based on startup current.

Suggestions and experiences welcomed! Any questions about my setup, please ask. Thanks.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

LS6 Tommy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ
Not sure of the code requirements for wire size either, but you can't run NMC on the surface of a block wall. You'll need some sort of conduit, a junction box/disconnect and a whip to the unit.

Tommy
 
OP
S

Slowcorrado

Active member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
29
Not sure of the code requirements for wire size either, but you can't run NMC on the surface of a block wall. You'll need some sort of conduit, a junction box/disconnect and a whip to the unit.

Thanks for the response, and shame on me for not posting the details on the connection. Existing whip and junction/control box are pictured below. Will be using PVC conduit to direct the NMC to the control box.

 

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
You need a number 8 cable or 10 in pipe. Breakers from 30 to 50 but let's pick one in the middle to give a little overhead for starts,,, 40.
 
Last edited:
OP
S

Slowcorrado

Active member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
29
Can you see the panel from this location, in the same room?

Yes, just a large basement. Kind of have to walk around a framed staircase to get to the panel though. How did you arrive at #8 wire In the post above?
 
OP
S

Slowcorrado

Active member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
29
Why are you running NM in conduit? Better to run THWN. For wire size, 5HP needs #8 NM-b or #10 THWN in pipe.

I was going to run the NM through holes in the joists in free air without conduit. Only use the conduit for the short vertical run against the block wall to provide physical protection. I don't have any experience with conduit/single wires. Was worried I couldn't buy it by the foot cheaply like the romex. Also looking for a breaker suggestion.
 

Aceman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2007
Messages
2,513
Location
Eastern Oregon
8-2 NM on a 40 amp breaker would be my recommendation as mentioned above by the other posters.

Use a bell end fitting where the cable enters the conduit sleeve.
 
OP
S

Slowcorrado

Active member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
29
Thanks to everyone who have given their insight into my issues! Now I just need to find some 8/2 reasonably priced, or THHN 10awg + conduit that's not more expensive!

Either way, it will be nice to get the compressor wired-up and ready for the plumbing part of the project!
 

wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,071
Location
Modesto, CA
Some other things to keep in mind.

If the panel is not within sight of and further than 50' from the compressor then it needs a disconnect. The disconnect needs to be rated for at least 5HP.

Also, you obviously are already doing it but for future readers, this compressor needs to be hardwired because its rated more than 3HP.
 
OP
S

Slowcorrado

Active member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
29
If the panel is not within sight of and further than 50' from the compressor then it needs a disconnect. The disconnect needs to be rated for at least 5HP.

Great point. I am less than (but very close to) 50' from the panel and would need to walk around a framed staircase to access the breaker panel. I'm sure I could argue with an inspector about it, but would my switch/protection box count as a "disconnect"?



If not, what would you suggest? I don't really have a problem installing something to be sure.
 

wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,071
Location
Modesto, CA
if you have to walk around something to see the breaker panel then that means you cannot see the panel.

no the motor controller doesnt count as a disconnect.

An A/c pullout disconnect would work...
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Norcal

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
13,769
if you have to walk around something to see the breaker panel then that means you cannot see the panel.

no the motor controller doesnt count as a disconnect.

An A/c pullout disconnect would work...

And pullout discos are cheap.
 

bczygan

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
22,002
Location
DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
if you have to walk around something to see the breaker panel then that means you cannot see the panel.

no the motor controller doesnt count as a disconnect.

An A/c pullout disconnect would work...

If the compressor is in it's own room, and the panel is in the shop, is a disconnect required, and does it go in the compressor room?

Bill
 
OP
S

Slowcorrado

Active member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
29
Curious, why does the NM-b have to be 8 and not 10 like the THWN?

I believe it's a temperature issue. NM-b is 60deg C while THHN is 75 or 90deg C. Also, the book shows 8/2 NM-b copper as supporting 40A and 10awg THHN as supporting 35A. 10/2 NM-b copper is only 30A. (in my case the conductor needs to be rated for 35A)

Now, on to a disconnect question:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-60-Amp-240-Volt-7-4-kW-Non-Fuse-AC-Disconnect-QO200TRCP/202353314



Will this suffice and be a good choice, or should I go cheaper with just a $7 pull-out in a plastic box?
 

wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,071
Location
Modesto, CA
would need to verify HP rating.

But why complicate things and spend more money?

Just get the pull out D/C. they do come in metal boxes as well
 
OP
S

Slowcorrado

Active member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
29
would need to verify HP rating.But why complicate things and spend more money? Just get the pull out D/C. they do come in metal boxes as well

Point taken, the one shown above is $12 instead of the $7 cheapie. :) Rated to 10HP (60A).
 

Fisherguy

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2011
Messages
191
Location
150 Mile House BC
...
... would my switch/protection box count as a "disconnect"?



If not, what would you suggest? I don't really have a problem installing something to be sure.

I'm planning the wiring for my shop including my 5 hp Eagle compressor, what is the difference between the switch (or motor controller) shown in this pic and a "disconnect"?

My compressor will be 35 ft from the panel and withing site so I can get away with a switch like in the pic?
 
Last edited:

wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,071
Location
Modesto, CA
I'm planning the wiring for my shop including my 5 hp Eagle compressor, what is the difference between the switch (or motor controller) shown in this pic and a "disconnect"?

My compressor will be 35 ft from the panel and withing site so I can get away with a switch like in the pic?

A switch does not count as a disconnect needed for servicing.

In your situation no disconnect is needed since the breaker can act as a disconnect.
 

Toothaker

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Messages
1,367
Location
Wichita, Kansas
That's what I don't get, doesn't a switch disconnect the compressor from power?
Just trying to understand...

The NEC specifically calls out the switch as not being a disconnect, and it requires a disconnect if not within 50 feet or not visible from the location of the compressor.

Take the cover off the switch, and the wires are energized on one side of the switch.
 

teamextreme

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 10, 2013
Messages
867
Location
Lakewood, CO
Part of the confusion is that is not a "switch" as everyone is calling it, it's a motor starter. Yes, putting the HOA in OFF mode will shut it off, but there isn't a means to lock out the switch and I suspect that's the reason it's not considered a disconnecting means.
 

Norcal

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
13,769
Part of the confusion is that is not a "switch" as everyone is calling it, it's a motor starter. Yes, putting the HOA in OFF mode will shut it off, but there isn't a means to lock out the switch and I suspect that's the reason it's not considered a disconnecting means.

While it is code compliant to switch 1 leg of a 240V 1Ø circuit, or 2 legs of a 3Ø circuit, a disconnect must break all conductors, a selector switch does not comply as a disconnect.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom