Me and my husband are planning on building a 40x80x12 block garage next year. The question is I am not sure how to calcualte the block needed, also I wanted to do it with as little cutting/waste as possible. Will this size call for each block on the sides to be cut? Also the height, will it be able to be done without cutting to them? Thanks!
Yet another block question
- Thread starter Megan
- Start date
IDASHO
Well-known member
You will always need to cut blocks.
No way around it. And dont worry about waste. Most all block remnants you make cutting blocks, you will use later on somewhere else in the wall.
Just get a skill saw and a diamond masonry blade. Makes quick easy (but DUSTY) work of it.
As for height, just as long as you are consistent, no cutting needed to obtain the proper height.
No way around it. And dont worry about waste. Most all block remnants you make cutting blocks, you will use later on somewhere else in the wall.
Just get a skill saw and a diamond masonry blade. Makes quick easy (but DUSTY) work of it.
As for height, just as long as you are consistent, no cutting needed to obtain the proper height.
V-10 Killer
Well-known member
Blocks are typically 16" long, which playing with math is 4/3 of a foot. If you divide the number of feet per row (perimeter of the building 40+40+80+80=240 feet). Now 240 divided by 4/3 is the same as multiplying 240 by 3/4. So each row of height will use 180 blocks. Now 180 x 12 rows is 2160 blocks. You'll obviously have to subtract out some for where you'll have doors or windows depending on how high you're going with them. Hope the wordy version helped you understand the "why".
boiler7904
Well-known member
Take your drawings for the building to the block supplier you will be buying the block from. They will know the number of corner units that are on a skid and waste factors for your project. They can help you also determine the quantity of bond beam blocks, ladder type reinforcing (if you aren't using steel rebar horizontally), and all of the other accessories you'll need including mortar and mason's sand.
Layout and size of openings will go a long way in reducing the number of blocks you have to cut. It's half math and half art to minimize cuts on a job. Basically, if you stick to multiples of 8" measurements (0'-8", odd number of feet + 4", even number of feet + 0" or even number of feet + 8") you'll minimize your cuts. Order your windows and doors on the same principle allowing a 1 1/2" wood nailer around all sides of windows and around all sides but the sills of doors. Overhead doors are laid out as actual door size so a 10' x 8' door gets a masonry opening that is 10'-0" wide x 8'-0" tall. 12'-0" tall is a module of standard 8" block coursing so you won't have to cut block to get to your height.
No offense but you might want to start with a book about masonry construction before you start this project. Nothing in construction is permanent but masonry is a PITA to fix once it sets up. I'd look at something like this book from Taunton Press.
Layout and size of openings will go a long way in reducing the number of blocks you have to cut. It's half math and half art to minimize cuts on a job. Basically, if you stick to multiples of 8" measurements (0'-8", odd number of feet + 4", even number of feet + 0" or even number of feet + 8") you'll minimize your cuts. Order your windows and doors on the same principle allowing a 1 1/2" wood nailer around all sides of windows and around all sides but the sills of doors. Overhead doors are laid out as actual door size so a 10' x 8' door gets a masonry opening that is 10'-0" wide x 8'-0" tall. 12'-0" tall is a module of standard 8" block coursing so you won't have to cut block to get to your height.
No offense but you might want to start with a book about masonry construction before you start this project. Nothing in construction is permanent but masonry is a PITA to fix once it sets up. I'd look at something like this book from Taunton Press.
1320stang
Well-known member
(...uhh... 3240 blocks killer, blocks are 8 inches tall, not 12. 180x18 courses = 3240 block, not including any openings.
)V-10 Killer
Well-known member
(...uhh... 3240 blocks killer, blocks are 8 inches tall, not 12. 180x18 courses = 3240 block, not including any openings.
Damn, so much for sounding like I knew what I was talking about LOL
I interpereted the "40x80x12 block" wrong.
Good catch!
1320stang
Well-known member
Yeah, you were going great, sounded like me a couple weeks ago. I typically take the footage by 12 to convert to inches and divide by 16 to get my block number, but same difference. Think about this though, a 40x80 is really a 39'-11 5/8"x79'-11 5/8" as the block are really 7 5/8"x15 5/8" with 3/8" of grout making up the difference each way. That's if you laying perfect 3/8" grout lines though.
Our local block supplier is very friendly they will help you as much as possible.They have slide rule block and concrete calculators they give away,of course we bought regularly from them.Get the catalog from your local supplier and study what they make.We built a 30X50 shop with windows and doors,12' ceilings. We had very minimum cutting,cutting is $ and time.We bought half blocks and solid window lintels for the doors and windows.The lintels/beams are of the same material as the block but are reenforced for the length required.If any of the block willhave dirt against them use a wider block.8" are good for the average garage.I like solid top block sometimes called a termite cap. I also like to pour solid with concrete every 4'.Bob
IMHO, brick work and concrete are two things best left to the pros.
It looks easy, but as somebody said, "The Devil is in the details."
And it is just plain hard work.
Stang's mention of the 3/8 motar line is a great example. Doing that consistantly, and fast, just takes pratice. Lots of it. But if you don't do it right, all the building mesurements are off. Forever.
An experienced man is a pleasure to watch. They get a rythem going and just slap them in. And they come out right. That is why it looks easy, but it isn't.
If you want to save money on a block building, hire a mason and his labor to run the mixer. (The mixer is another learned skill. Each mason has his own prefered "stiffness" in the motar. A good mixer will learn what he wants and know how to adjust the mix. The keeps the mason happy, and he works fast.)
You can help out by being the labor that supplies the block from the skid to the work point, and that carries the mortar to the work point. No skill needed there. Just a stong back and a stong pair of legs.
It looks easy, but as somebody said, "The Devil is in the details."
And it is just plain hard work.
Stang's mention of the 3/8 motar line is a great example. Doing that consistantly, and fast, just takes pratice. Lots of it. But if you don't do it right, all the building mesurements are off. Forever.
An experienced man is a pleasure to watch. They get a rythem going and just slap them in. And they come out right. That is why it looks easy, but it isn't.
If you want to save money on a block building, hire a mason and his labor to run the mixer. (The mixer is another learned skill. Each mason has his own prefered "stiffness" in the motar. A good mixer will learn what he wants and know how to adjust the mix. The keeps the mason happy, and he works fast.)
You can help out by being the labor that supplies the block from the skid to the work point, and that carries the mortar to the work point. No skill needed there. Just a stong back and a stong pair of legs.
1320stang
Well-known member
You forgot, a weak mind also helps. 
Makes you forget to ask yourself, "why didn't I hire this done as well?"
Makes you forget to ask yourself, "why didn't I hire this done as well?"