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Yet another compressor plumbing thread

ugotd8

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Apr 15, 2013
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127
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Denver
Hi all, hope you are having a great Friday night. I'm preparing my compressor setup for the arrival of a new RapidAir 1/2 system. Going to mount the manifold next to the air filter/regulator shown below. I also have a 3ft 1/2" npt lead-in hose (3ft) coming that I plan to route under that lower 2x4 then into the water trap. Trying to plumb the output from the compressor from parts I have laying around. All this ends up going to a 25ft 3/8 ID air hose. Questions:

1. is this workable? :)
2. The craftsman compressor has 3/4 female and I am immediately reducing to 1/2" with a reducer, then to the black pipe tee. Is that OK (brass directly on black pipe)?
3. will there be any water ever in the lower pipe or is that a waste?

Thanks for any comments/suggestions!

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rayra

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Given that the outlet is so far up the side of the tank and that you list Denver, I think your moisture in the line will be practically nonexistent. And condensed out of the atmosphere by the pump is going to be at the drain at the bottom of the tank. It might be worthwhile to plumb at extension line and ball valve at the bottom, to make it easier to blow the moisture out of the tank.
Unless you are doing something moisture sensitive like spraying paint, I dont thing you'll have any line moisture issue at all.

Maybe some folks in similar altitudes and lee climates can give you a better answer.
 
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Kaizen

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Off the tank first should be a flexible line only imo. That is adding weight to the bung and vibrations won’t help. Water traps in cast iron should be 40+ feet long to work. That won’t do anything so get rid of it and put in a mechanical water trap.


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sberry

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I would also make a littlre cjange to the outlet but,,, I like a xxh ****** there or a hyd nip if there is much on it but a valve immediately off of it. This isn't real bad because any soft lines are downstream of the valve but valve off tank is standard as a disconnect for the whole system. Don't have to shut off the comp to service or isolate it.
If the comp doesn't have any leaks its a great means to turn off when away if it bothers you, if the tank is pumped doesn't use the breaker for starting although that's not a big deal for home owners.
Reason I ask about cold or heat is that the factory drain is made to tolerate freezing, creating a sump with pipe and ball valve will freeze.
 
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930dreamer

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I use a piece of hydraulic hose off the tank to a tee mounted to the wall with a drip leg going down. The other end of the tee travels across the shop to the regulators.
 
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ugotd8

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Apr 15, 2013
Messages
127
Location
Denver
Thanks for all the replies gents. The garage is insulated and heated so shouldn't have a problem with freezing. I came up with this but now realize the water trap is too close to the tank after doing more research. Each of the drops (2) has a drain and I added a 1-2 degree slope to the lines on the ceiling. I suppose another couple of water traps at the drops and I'll be set. :)

(the line with the drain is the long run across the garage to the back wall, the other line goes to the hose reel).

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