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Yet another heat/insulation question - suspended ceiling?

IdaSpode

New member
Joined
Nov 5, 2008
Messages
4
Building in question: Pole barn construction on 4” 34(W) x 30(L) slab, main area 24(W) x 30(L), separate partitioned 10(W) x 20(L) “office”, leftover slab area is 10x10 covered patio, 11’ ceiling height, 3/12 pitch, about 14’ at peak. Metal roofing and siding with about 3” insulation installed between siding and framing. Radiant in floor heat with (aarrgghh) 80 gal electric water heater.

I am located in SW Idaho, hot summers and coldish winters. Right now, with winter approaching, I am concerned mostly with heating efficiency, but this should also aid in keeping it cooler in the summer. The floor heat cannot keep up when outside temp falls below about 30*, runs 24/7 = $$$.

My idea is to install a suspended grid w/tile ceiling and insulate with fiberglass batts directly on top of the ceiling tiles/suspension grid. This would be for the 24x30 main area only. My thinking is I am reducing the cubic footage of air I must heat and adding insulation.

My rationale on suspended grid vs. sheetrock is that I’d have to add substantial framing on which to hang the rock, with 10’ spans between the end walls and trusses and between the two center trusses, I am looking at having to use 2x6 framing. That along with the sheetrock starts to add up to a lot of weight, cost and labor. Then I’d have to tape/mud/finish/prime/paint. In looking at cost and ease of installation, I feel the grid system will be better in this application.

My question to the collective wisdom on here: Am I thinking in the right direction? My cost estimate is that I can do this for about $1100 with my labor paid at nominal rate of diddly-squat per hour.

Is my thinking flawed in trying to reduce the space to heat? Should I abandon the ceiling altogether and just insulate the **** out of the roof? The roof purlins are 2x6, not much room for fiberglass insulation. If I did spray on foam it looks like 6" would be enough, (R7 per inch x 6" = R42)

Last winter was my first one with the shop, I figure my electric bill went up about $90/month and that’s on a level pay arrangement. If I could cut this in half, even for the +/-5 months or so I use the heat, it would pay for itself fairly quickly.

Advice? Suggestions?

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Bigrhamr

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
293
Location
North Idaho
Just to give you another option steel roofing makes a nice ceiling. Goes up quick, no mud, tape or paint, it looks good and reflects light good. If your trusses are 10' O.C. you could get away with 2x4's 3' O.C. for framing. Of course you'll need to be sure your trusses are rated for a bottom load. Also if you close in the ceiling that attic will need to be vented. Is that overhead door insulated?
 
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IdaSpode

New member
Joined
Nov 5, 2008
Messages
4
I have given steel panels some thought and will investigate the cost. Thanks.

I called about having foam sprayed on, kinda pricey at $1/sq foot per inch of foam and he wasn't sure if the plastic film on the existing insulation would hold up to the heat of the foam going off. He's coming by sometime today to have a look-see and offer options.

In talking with the salesman, he also mentioned the option of installing a "Polar Blanket" membrane on the roof purlins and blowing in fiberglass fill, about $1.50/sq foot. Any info on that?

Yes, the door is insulated and I understand the venting issues.
 
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